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chrisgt posted:How is that jack for servicing things under the care. Exhaust repairs, driveshaft, etc? It's hard to tell from the promo video, but it looks rather restrictive 
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Sep 22, 2017 14:18
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chrisgt posted:How is that jack for servicing things under the care. Exhaust repairs, driveshaft, etc? It's hard to tell from the promo video, but it looks rather restrictive Considering the bars that go across the center, probably not too great for that. They do have a model that just uses the frame rails though, so I'd imagine that's the one you'd want to get. They also have a subsidiary company that sells a consumer version which seems much less of a hassle to use and easy to put away. Replaced the rocker panels on my old truck with some cheap rocker panels I got off Rock-Auto.  Also replaced the running boards which were thoroughly rotted through. Had to grind off a couple bolts due to the clips holding them in just up and snapping off the frame. Fun times. 
IronDoge fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 14:25
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chrisgt posted:How is that jack for servicing things under the care. Exhaust repairs, driveshaft, etc? It's hard to tell from the promo video, but it looks rather restrictive scuz posted:I'm similarly curious. Perhaps they're not featuring it on the video because it IS restrictive I don't think I'd be able to drop a front engine or trans out, but you can stick the car up off the lift by 2", 6"ish, or 10"ish with the included pads and accessories. A lot of that is dependent on the ground clearance of the car though. Like my AW11 is too low to use the 4" extensions with the 6" pads. But if you were working on a bigger car, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to get a driveshaft in and out or an exhaust system. It's open in the middle so you should be able to access driveshaft center bearings and guibos and stuff. It's been really useful for me for suspension work and mild to medium servicing and repairs on the fleet here. I didn't want to drill into the floors in the under-house garage and it ceilings are too low for most 4-posters. The plan is that we're building a detached 30x40 shop, and my plan is to have one 4 post and one 2 post in the shop, and this lift will be relegated to tire changes and suspension work. More thread content: The eyebrows were falling apart on the AW11 and I wanted a stop-gap fix before I have to wait for OEM (loving expensive) ones to come in. They aren't perfect, but I think they're passable. Re-blacked the housings too while I was at it. 
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Sep 22, 2017 15:13
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IronDoge posted:Considering the bars that go across the center, probably not too great for that. They do have a model that just uses the frame rails though, so I'd imagine that's the one you'd want to get. They also have a subsidiary company that sells a consumer version which seems much less of a hassle to use and easy to put away. Those quickjacks are the poo poo. Im hoping the price comes down because they were pitched as being cheaper but i want to get one eventually. It actually seems more usefull than a real lift 90% of the time because its so light and portable and its out of the way lifting from the sides like that. E: also they were talking about making a version that didnt need their compressor i guess that never happened. That would be ideal if you arent using it for a track car, any place i would bring them already has a compressor so if it was an option i wouldnt buy theirs but its still a cool system. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 21:32
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7MGE Cressida with overheating issues Several days of bumbling my way through removing the head later:     At least I think so, looks blown on cylinder 6 and as if coolant has cleaned the top of the piston. According to the internet my next step should be checking if the head is warped.
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Sep 23, 2017 02:20
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DogonCrook posted:Those quickjacks are the poo poo. Im hoping the price comes down because they were pitched as being cheaper but i want to get one eventually. It actually seems more usefull than a real lift 90% of the time because its so light and portable and its out of the way lifting from the sides like that. Im looking at the MaxJax, a short portable two post lift. I don't have the ceiling height for a standard height one: http://www.maxjaxusa.com/buy-purchase-maxjax-car-lift/dannmar-maxjax-standard-package.html?gclid=CKK-qtukj9QCFQwQaQodbzIBnw About US$1850
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Sep 23, 2017 02:28
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New lower balljoints, #2 rear control arms, and sway bar endlinks for the Sportcross. When you see my fuckup.... FUUUUUCK. 
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Sep 23, 2017 02:54
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Ahahaha that sucks. At least freshly installed stuff comes off easy.
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Sep 23, 2017 03:11
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That's what I get for trying to speed through this, at least I don't have to pop a new ball joint to get the brake line in the right spot. To be fair, it's much easier to work on than many cars I've owned.
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Sep 23, 2017 04:30
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puberty worked me over posted:7MGE Cressida with overheating issues As someone who did this job last year your best move to ensure this never ever happens again (because gently caress stripping the head on these loving engines) is get the head checked and skimmed with a valve clean up and new stem seals and get a Cometic metal head gasket and ARP studs for when you put it back together again. Also maybe replace the coolant hoses everywhere using PROPER screw clamps because those cheap Chinese ones will pop under pressure. Check the coolant seal cap on the back of the engine, it's a blank and can leak tiny amounts which you won't notice. They were blocked with wood(!) from factory, 89+ were metal and should be ok. Enjoy the assembly process on the ARP studs too, from what I remember you can't drop the head on with the studs in the block easily and you can't put the studs in through the head and then add the washers and nuts afterwards (you'll need a nice narrow 12 point socket for those) as the machining on the head isn't great. I had the car about 4 months before the PO's head work died on me, he'd used a cheap gasket and crap bolts. Don't do this unless you enjoy taking your engine to pieces again. *edit: in case you need a hand reassembling it afterwards. Mine is a GE so different to this a little, I had to gently caress about figuring out where a few things went on the intake side. http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/43-guide-changing-a-head-gasket/?tab=comments#comment-194 Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 12:06
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Thanks for the advice, my avatar precedes me. Glad to know doing it cheaply isn't going to cut it. I was using that guide you linked a bit for dis-assembly, though the 7MGTE is different enough it was just a case of removing everything connected to the head and labeling it. Any reason to use the ARP studs instead of the ARP bolts?
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Sep 23, 2017 15:07
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Yup, with bolts you're twisting them as you're installing them so your torque readings will never be fully accurate (which is likely why the PO's fix didn't fix... They used bolts and only 3 were tight on disassembly) Studs are the way to go if you want to do stuff properly which is something you need to do if you go metal head gasket.
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Sep 23, 2017 15:32
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I've been trying to replace the pressure line of the power steering pump on a 1997 Chevy Lumina and...I no longer feel confident at all. Any time work is needed on the car, it's a battle of attrition with your sanity on the line, and this piece of crap will fight you tooth and nail. The easiest thing I've ever done on it involved rotating the entire loving transverse V6 engine. Anyway, the only real access you have to the bolt that goes into the steering rack is a 4" window between the subframe and exhaust. The bolt is angled up and away from you, towards the engine. It seems like no matter how you attack it, the angle is wrong. My hands are too big to fit a small wrench in there, and using a long wrench is pointless because there's no room to turn it. I've also tried a crow's foot on a long, flex head ratchet, or an extremely long extension from above the engine. No luck. I refuse to lower the subframe or gently caress with rusted exhaust bolts just to turn this one thing. Even if you need a jump in this car, it involves first removing 3 large bolts (hope grandma has her tool kit!), removing a brace, sketchily removing the windshield washer fluid reservoir (which sits on top of the battery) and possibly opening up the air filter enclosure so you can fit the alligator clip on there. It's a side post battery, because of course it is.
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Sep 24, 2017 01:13
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Does the 7M motor not use torque to yield head bolts like toyotas diesel engines do? I think the head bolt procedure for my 6 pot diesel is oil the poo poo out of the threads and heads, torque to spec, then tighten another 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees. Bolts stretch in and keep constant tension on the head gasket. Theres also 26 of the things for a 24v 6 cylinder...
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Sep 24, 2017 01:32
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Finally got tired of trying to put this stupid intake manifold brace back on now that the starter is installed, plasma cut it in half. I win, bitch.
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Sep 24, 2017 01:45
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Did you cut it in half to make it installable, or sheer punishment?
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Sep 24, 2017 01:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did you cut it in half to make it installable, or sheer punishment? We cut it in half so it could be removed and thrown away without dropping the exhaust.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:16
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The Big Green Moneyfucker was back in the shop again this weekend... I replaced a CV axle (wasn't actually the problem, more on that later). Welded a new piece of metal on the back of the muffler since I wasn't buying a new $200 muffler over 45 minutes of playing with the metal glue gun. Then I poked at the flaky oily rust on the differential ....  Fortunately a shop in Maine actually fabricates new covers...  I had to remove the brake line, found this in my box of goodies. I guess I've used this trick before. Pro tip: if you have 10mm brake fittings, don't have a flare wrench, and a 10mm open end is rounding them off, just hammer a 3/8" wrench on there. It'll grab just fine and break it loose without rounding.   I guess I never took a picture of it finished. I do have some pics of the old cover on the bench:    I beat on it with a chipping hammer to see how many more holes I could make... surprisingly only one. That would also explain why the holes are so big now. So after replacing the CV axle and all the rest of this poo poo, I took it for a test drive and pushed the 4wd button (toyota calls it 4wd, but it's really awd with an open center diff). The thing stopped moving, made a bad sound (tm). Look under and the front driveshaft is turning but nothing is happening... 2wd, it moves, locked 4wd, moves, awd? fuuu Pulled the ADD (front axle disconnect actuator thing) off and it was full of gearoil. I took it completely apart and found a failed o-ring, by some stroke of luck I had the exact right size in my AC service kit. Don't let it see me post this, but I think the Sequoia is all fixed (for now).
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Sep 24, 2017 04:16
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BlackMK4 posted:New lower balljoints, #2 rear control arms, and sway bar endlinks for the Sportcross. Yeeeap. I've done maybe five sets of brake changes and this last time my buddy asked what I thought of the race style brakes on my cts-v. I didn't know what he meant and he clarified the part about how you don't need to unbolt the calipers to replace the pads. 
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Sep 24, 2017 05:34
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I did find a final product picture. It was just in snapchat. I noticed I got it on just a bit crooked, if you want to come cut it off and re-weld it, be my guest. I'm never doing this loving service again.
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Sep 24, 2017 12:29
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I didn't think Toyota diff covers were replaceable without replacing the whole axle. Thats impressive.
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Sep 24, 2017 14:42
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Ferremit posted:Does the 7M motor not use torque to yield head bolts like toyotas diesel engines do? Manual doesn't use degrees and mentions nothing about lubing the bolts which is unhelpful at best aaaaaaand the manual torque settings are the reason why 99.9% of 7Ms have had gasket issues. The engine was designed around an asbestos gasket which got changed during production. The settings they used during the build process were too low for the changed gasket (or just generally at 54ftlbs iirc) hence they all let go at some point. Personally I feel like it's not worth half-arsing the job so went with what the entire world suggests and went ARP and metal gasket to ensure it'll never ever let go  *edit: I should add to this that ARP did research into loading of bolt and studs and lube used with it, oil apparently lets you over torque your poo poo which ain't ideal Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 17:42
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rdb posted:I didn't think Toyota diff covers were replaceable without replacing the whole axle. Thats impressive. They technically aren't...
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Sep 24, 2017 18:12
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Finally got my CP-E intercooler installed. I've had it for about a month after having it be on back order since early June. Had a couple of buddies come over and gave them water and beer, and on it went with no problems. Haven't driven hard yet to test out the new colder charge temps, but I'm picking up 1 step colder plugs tomorrow, then on to tune refinement (not running my custom tune til it's updated). Sunday fun day! Headlights out, bottom clips coming off:  Bumper off, new intercooler in box:  Old FMIC off, ready to be installed:  She needs a wash, but I'm glad the new one is finally in.  The intercooler came with about 14 pages of instructions, and the first 12 were how to get the old one off.
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Sep 24, 2017 22:03
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Manual doesn't use degrees and mentions nothing about lubing the bolts which is unhelpful at best aaaaaaand the manual torque settings are the reason why 99.9% of 7Ms have had gasket issues. The engine was designed around an asbestos gasket which got changed during production. The settings they used during the build process were too low for the changed gasket (or just generally at 54ftlbs iirc) hence they all let go at some point. Yeah they obviously worked out their poo poo with the diesels (or just went typical toyota and overbuilt the loving things) but they use MLS head gaskets and full torque to yield head bolts, so you torque em up, then stretch em in which holds that head down HARD. Factory procedure is oil threads and heads with engine oil before install- probably because you have to essentially overtorque the bolts during install. Also means that any time you remove the heads your out of pocket $200 for head bolts as well as the gasket
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Sep 25, 2017 05:13
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Mom's ride (03 Toyota Avalon), but I do a lot of the work on it. Her center console lid has been falling apart. It was finally to where the leather had peeled way back and it wasn't attached to the console at all. Finally broke down and bought a new OEM one, since 2nd gen Avalons don't show up in junkyards often here (and when they do, they're almost always cloth interiors).   Yup, that's hosed.  Flash managed to throw the color way off, but it's a very close match to the original (original was faded a bit), and was ordered by VIN (so the dealer knew I was ordering the correct color). Now if I could just talk her into taking better care of the leather interior overall...
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Sep 25, 2017 07:38
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I put these floor liners in my car. Real proud of myself.  They're Husky liners and were about half the price of weathertechs for the front and rear. I really like them and they should come in handy for Michigan road salt season. Edit: I bummed myself out just now. 12 years ago I was doing a top end 60k service on my V6 SHO and now I don't even want to change my own oil. I've gotten lazy. I have much respect for you guys and what I've seen done in this thread. Mental Hospitality fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 05:46
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Mental Hospitality posted:I put these floor liners in my car. Real proud of myself. Buy something that requires you to service it yourself. That'll sort you out. Recently changed the valve cover gasket on my wife's Tracker, now I have to change some seals that are around the place where the distributor connects to the engine. Distributor housing seal  Looks to be way easy but I didn't have the parts.
KakerMix fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 06:42
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KakerMix posted:Buy something that requires you to service it yourself. That'll sort you out. If I ever buy a used car again it's going to be an early 2000's Mustang or Panther body because I think they're so cool. I'm lacking a real garage to have another car or place to wrench on one. Apartment dwelling...Sad.
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Sep 26, 2017 06:45
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Mental Hospitality posted:If I ever buy a used car again it's going to be an early 2000's Mustang or Panther body because I think they're so cool. I'm lacking a real garage to have another car or place to wrench on one. Apartment dwelling...Sad. that's the worst body mustang dude. I went from 95 GT to 06 GT and decided on an 03 Focus hatch in the middle. Over that body style mustang.
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Sep 26, 2017 07:26
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Mental Hospitality posted:If I ever buy a used car again it's going to be an early 2000's Mustang or Panther body because I think they're so cool. I'm lacking a real garage to have another car or place to wrench on one. Apartment dwelling...Sad. This is why I drive 80 miles to work on my shitheaps. I just have to make sure they don't break bad enough they can't make the 80 mile drive... If I could afford to pay someone to work on the toyota I probably would... the mercedes is a fun project. The toyota is supposed to be a reliable daily driver...
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Sep 26, 2017 13:00
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KakerMix posted:Buy something that requires you to service it yourself. That'll sort you out. I've got to do that same distributor seal on my MR2. Thing's weeping nearly a quart out of it every 1000 miles. Makes me curse the Japanese packaging that had them put a distributor horizontally in the head below the pressurized oil level. Edit: content. I threw new eyebrows on the MR2, not sold on them staying black, I think I want to body color them.  Also put up a white board in the garage to keep track of all the poo poo I need to do... 
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 13:19
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Mental Hospitality posted:If I ever buy a used car again it's going to be an early 2000's Mustang or Panther body because I think they're so cool. I'm lacking a real garage to have another car or place to wrench on one. Apartment dwelling...Sad. Elsa posted:that's the worst body mustang dude. I went from 95 GT to 06 GT and decided on an 03 Focus hatch in the middle. Over that body style mustang.
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Sep 26, 2017 13:50
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Mental Hospitality posted:I put these floor liners in my car. Real proud of myself. What year and trans did you have? (for the SHO)
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Sep 26, 2017 14:15
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C-Bangin' it 
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I opened and closed a door.  midwest
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Sep 26, 2017 23:59
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Larrymer posted:I opened and closed a door. Dude! Spoiler that horrible stuff for us southern folk.
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Sep 27, 2017 00:03
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Darchangel posted:Dude! Spoiler that horrible stuff for us southern folk. 
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Sep 27, 2017 00:46
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Larrymer posted:I opened and closed a door. Oh you can do better than that... Possibly NMS/NWS for horrible rust, close your eyes if you're sensitive. Let's just say this one is in your toolbag if you've been shopping at Harbor Freight recently...    Subframe:  I actually drove this until the rear subframe completely cracked in half, then I ratchet strapped it together with 2x4s and drove it for another 6 months. It was a terrifying car to drive. The steering rack was also... ummm... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QArPq_j-lEU chrisgt fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 01:34
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Eek. Mine is an old truck for Michigan but everything on it works fairly well and I love it despite the rust. Besides the rust, I think the only thing it needs is a hvac resistor pack. And probably some sandbags for this winter. 
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Sep 27, 2017 02:26
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Colostomy Bag posted:What year and trans did you have? (for the SHO) '93 automatic. It was still a fun car. When I got it the water pump was pissing coolant, but after fixing that and the failed valve cover gaskets I drove it across Michigan several times. Major parts of it started rusting away though. I think it spent many winters outside.
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Sep 27, 2017 03:23
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