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Is Rakarth Flesh just a tough color to get smooth? I'm thinning it out almost to the point of being a wash but I just can't seem to get it smooth enough. I'm almost tempted to base coat everything in it with the airbrush and then just paint over the other parts.
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Sep 25, 2017 16:35
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Shadin posted:Is Rakarth Flesh just a tough color to get smooth? I'm thinning it out almost to the point of being a wash but I just can't seem to get it smooth enough. I'm almost tempted to base coat everything in it with the airbrush and then just paint over the other parts. All GW off-whites / bone colours and light-greys and such have always been pretty chalky and hard to get smooth in my experience, not to mention drying the instant you put them on your pallet.
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Sep 25, 2017 17:08
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:All GW off-whites / bone colours and light-greys and such have always been pretty chalky and hard to get smooth in my experience, not to mention drying the instant you put them on your pallet. Yeah, I noticed it was pretty much drying out on the model and brush at an alarming rate. I'm doing the pants and tunics for a human Blood Bowl team, maybe I'll try to find a close enough color. How are those types of paints in the Vallejo Model Color range?
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Sep 25, 2017 17:11
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Schadenboner posted:So this might be a little grim/weird* but I need piles of civilian bodies for scenery/terrain purposes. 40k-ish "scale". Any ideas? Maybe zombies? Warlord games zombies and survivors for a more modern look. Frostgrave cultists might work in 40k as well, and reaper has some civvies as well, but those tend to be fantasy focused, but could provide some variety. Some genestealer cult models also have more of a worker look to them as well.
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Sep 25, 2017 17:34
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" model usually pursued (at least in 40k, although see Abnett's Necropolis for a pretty good handling of it, I think) is actually more offensive since it flies in the face of, you know, loving reality?
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Shadin posted:Yeah, I noticed it was pretty much drying out on the model and brush at an alarming rate. You want Dark Sand, Light Sand and Deck Tan. If you want something more yellow go with Buff, if you need something pinkish go Light Flesh. Also dilute the poo poo out of the paint, it takes dilution and layering well, better than slapping it on thick and letting it look chalky.
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Sep 25, 2017 17:57
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Z the IVth posted:You want Dark Sand, Light Sand and Deck Tan. Thank you my paintgoon, I'll add those to the shopping list and strip these humans to give the pants another go.
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Sep 25, 2017 18:09
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Schadenboner posted:So this might be a little grim/weird* but I need piles of civilian bodies for scenery/terrain purposes. 40k-ish "scale". Any ideas? Maybe zombies? Maybe Reaper Bones - I'm thinking of the "Zombie George" model, which is basically a dead body standing up, $5 for 3 models, and bendable enough that you could soak them in hot water and kind of drape them around the scenery, instead of having the rigid forms of GW models.
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Sep 25, 2017 18:18
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Painted up a Land Speeder, the newer kit kinda sucks but sucks a lot less than the old one from the 90s.     
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Sep 25, 2017 18:20
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Darren MacLennan posted:Maybe Reaper Bones - I'm thinking of the "Zombie George" model, which is basically a dead body standing up, $5 for 3 models, and bendable enough that you could soak them in hot water and kind of drape them around the scenery, instead of having the rigid forms of GW models. Nice! They look corpsy without looking too undeadish. And who doesn't like a Burns and Allen joke? E: Well, more of a "reference" than a "joke" really... Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Sep 25, 2017 |
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Sep 25, 2017 18:22
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Finished up some incepters this weekend while my internet was out   
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Sep 25, 2017 23:06
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Are Pewter minis typically really annoying to glue together, or is this unique to Infinity minis? The one silver lining is that the arms on this corax specops have fallen off and been attached so many times that it's given the coat a sort of 'ripped sleeves' look with the superglue buildup :v
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Sep 25, 2017 23:54
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Compared to plastics? Sure. Infinity minis also probably* have the issue that the joins are smaller than on something like a GW mini, so it's easier to break them. I always pin everything on pewter/resin figures since I don't want to reglue stuff later on. * I don't have any Infinity models, but I have a bunch of Dark Age ones, and they look pretty similar in scale/part breakdown.
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Sep 26, 2017 00:23
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Neurolimal posted:Are Pewter minis typically really annoying to glue together, or is this unique to Infinity minis? Yes, more so for Infinity since the models don't tend to have big chunky connections except HI and TAGs. I tend to stick the models together with gel glue first and then apply extra-thin glue in very small amount to the joint after that initial connection is dry.
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Sep 26, 2017 01:06
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Neurolimal posted:Are Pewter minis typically really annoying to glue together, or is this unique to Infinity minis? Clean up mold lines as usual, scrub them with a brass brush, and then wash with a toothbrush in soap and water (or even drop them in acetone). Scratch up all the joints and then make sure you've got a lot of patience on hand. Also how old is your super glue? Plastic is light enough that old super glue works fine. I built all my original Infinity minis with some old glue and all of them have fallen apart. New glue and the methods above have helped. However my friend cleans all his with an old break off razor blade and then just glues and paints and all his stuff is fine so who knows.
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Sep 26, 2017 01:06
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Asked this in the infinity thread but I'm at a loss so I'll bring this here. Won a bunch of hassassin bahram models in a tournament but I have no idea how I want to paint/base them. I'm a bit worried about going with the stock scheme as they might look to close to my current tan/grey robots These things VVVVVVV 
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Sep 26, 2017 02:29
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Yeah, I think when you're having to glue something over and over like that it's most likely bad glue. With metals I find that you generally soak up all the release agent with the first attempt at gluing, or maybe the second. As long as you're scraping and regluing, it shouldn't take more than.. three tries.
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Sep 26, 2017 02:50
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Can anyone recommend a colour combination and process to do undead? Ideally I want like a dark red base with a bluey-flesh highlight I think? All the stock dead flesh colours are kind of green and aren't really what I'm into. I'm pretty new at this so I've been experimenting with washes and thinning etc. so nothing too tricky please.
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Sep 26, 2017 03:15
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So, I have done this with purple and green, but it should work fine for blue or any tinted skin. Basically find a white fleshtone. I use elfic flesh from Vallejo, but pallid wych flesh should work fine if you prefer gw. Then find a nice dark blue color. Mix them 2 to 1 or so to get a nice shade tone for your flesh. Then paint that as your base coat. Do 2 or so highlights. The first with a good bit more of the light tone, then the second of almost all the light fleshtone for extreme highlights. Adjust to taste because I'm pulling numbers out of my rear end. It gives you a really nice, cohesive light, colored skin and everything fits together because it is all the same mix of colors in different proportions. It might be slightly advanced if you're just learning to mix paint, but it's pretty basic as far as mixing goes, and a good intro as there are only two colors. You can also fine tune it with very very light glazes of the darker color, but that is probably a bit too much for you is you're just getting consistency right at the moment. E: red base up to blue is a WAY harder problem, as it would involve 3 paints. I'd recommend going with blue then possibly washing recesses and eye sockets, etc red if you want. Red also will give you a more alive look if you aren't careful. Felime fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 05:07
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R0ckfish posted:Finished up some incepters this weekend while my internet was out These are really nice, love that green.
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Sep 26, 2017 07:47
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Some Skittles themed 
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Sep 26, 2017 14:28
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richyp posted:Some Skittles themed Of no particular relevance to your post other than I thought of the question after seeing it (but it's a great picture so: quoting it): has anyone tried doing Primaris-These Guys from AoS swaps? Is the scale more-or-less consistent?
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Sep 26, 2017 14:55
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richyp posted:Some Skittles themed Now that's an appealing scheme for those guys. The blue-white gradient accents really make it pop.
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Sep 26, 2017 15:04
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richyp posted:Some Skittles themed Really love the lightning bolts on these. Looks like actual lightning! R0ckfish posted:Finished up some incepters this weekend while my internet was out Forgot to comment on these earlier - your greens are so clean, dude. Really great job. Also, n'thing the love of the freehanding on them. SRM posted:Painted up a Land Speeder, the newer kit kinda sucks but sucks a lot less than the old one from the 90s. Looks good man. How are you getting that dusty effect on it? is that just a drybrush?
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Sep 26, 2017 15:34
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Zuul the Cat posted:Looks good man. How are you getting that dusty effect on it? is that just a drybrush? Thanks! Yeah, it's just a drybrush of Steel Legion Drab then another one of Karak Stone.
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Sep 26, 2017 15:50
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I painted my first hams.
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Sep 26, 2017 17:24
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You're off to a very good start, well done. One very easy improvement you could make for the next one would be a wash of Nuln Oil on every metallic part to give them some depth.
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Sep 26, 2017 17:52
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On the off chance anyone is near Madison WI, Pegasus games is going to have a class on airbrush painting for minis. It's on October 15th. I don't own an airbrush yet, but I signed up to start learning and see if it's something I want to get in to. All materials provided for the class.
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Sep 26, 2017 18:41
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Holy moly! I'm glad I came across this post. I used to paint artsy portraits and recently developed an obsession to paint minis for D&D. I LOVED the reaper resource on thinning paint for minis. I feel like it'll really up my mini painting game by a million. Thank you for taking the time to make this post, OP. With all this insightful wisdom and input, I can't wait to post a pic of a super nice refined mini. 
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Sep 26, 2017 20:40
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Pand posted:I painted my first hams. Very nice start. I see a lot of potential in your work!
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Sep 26, 2017 22:01
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Felime posted:So, I have done this with purple and green, but it should work fine for blue or any tinted skin. Thanks they look much better now. Going to give highlighting a go tonight.
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Sep 27, 2017 03:23
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Paolomania posted:Finally had some time to work on this.  Slow progress continues. You can really tell the difference between the super glossy VGC paints on the body and the matte Reaper paints of the spikes.
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Sep 27, 2017 04:00
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Work continues apace on The Saddest Bust:
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Sep 27, 2017 04:20
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I can't wait to paint my house escher necromunda set with the "depressing West Virginia roller derby team" theme. Wrinkles, bad tans, rust, cigarettes and roots in the dyed hair. Hell yeah. Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 04:55
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First time painting 6mm models, seems like a good time to get an airbrush. I know the patriot 105 is good, is their a goto compressor for under $200 atm?
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Sep 27, 2017 05:07
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goodness posted:First time painting 6mm models, seems like a good time to get an airbrush. I've been using this one since the beginning of the year and no complaints. If noise matters, I can use it two rooms away from my sleeping wife and it doesn't wake her up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UbZYzbV6G68RR
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Sep 27, 2017 06:02
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Red_Fred posted:Thanks they look much better now. Going to give highlighting a go tonight. I look forward to seeing how they turn out!
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Sep 27, 2017 06:38
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Felime posted:I look forward to seeing how they turn out! Oh man 
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Sep 27, 2017 06:44
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I could use some help with a WIP. I've finished the armor other than some detailing and weathering and am happy with it. I'm working on the robes right now and am having trouble. They're ok, but I am finding them pretty boring. What I've tried so far has made some minor improvements, but I'm still finding it visually uninteresting and still fairly flat. Everything I've tried thus far hasn't been a big improvement. This is close to what I am looking to achieve, something very striking with a lot of contrast: I tried following the guide in that video, and its easy enough when the cloak is very small and folded heavily, but on this larger flat cloak it's not really working. This is where I'm at now:     I feel like the problem is that I need to go darker, but I am finding it hard to go darker in most of the cloak is fairly flat and not seeing where I can go darker with it looking right.
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Sep 27, 2017 06:53
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I agree. You can find some recesses to push the dark though. Under chains and such maybe? In the crevices of the folded thinner parts?
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Sep 27, 2017 06:59
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Alternate suggestion: go lighter on the raised areas of the cloak. Notice how, on your sample picture, the purple is highlighted up to a lavender at the widest parts of the folds; that really adds some visual interest to even a flatter, less detailed surface. You can experiment with/practice wet blending to get a smooth gradient going on those areas. Maybe also blend in a complimentary color, like a little dark green (well thinned), into the crevices to desaturate the shadows and help them stand out more against the bright purple. What you're going for here is contrast, and brighter highlights and deeper shadows will help create that effect.
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Sep 27, 2017 07:39
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