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TooMuchAbstraction posted:As a point of comparison, I spent $12k to get a 16x24' (so about 2x as big as your barn) concrete slab foundation poured for my workshop. This was a full-on foundation with perimeter walls, not just a floor, but I'd still be surprised if you could get your floor done for what you're ready to pay. Sorry. I was hoping it wasn't going to be anywhere near that. A friend of a friend who has done some concrete work suggested to me that blocking up the back with cinder blocks and calling the ready mix plant up the road and telling them to dump their "hot loads" (HEH) in the hole and I'd get it done for free (over time any way). I've been procrastinating that option as it means moving a bunch of crap out of there and finding a home for it for however many months that takes and finally said gently caress it, let me see what somebody wants to do it.
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Sep 27, 2017 21:14
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Sub Par posted:More bathroom reno questions from me. I've installed cement board around the shower now, and there's about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap (depending on the wall) between the top of the backer board and the ceiling (which is plaster). I have setting type joint compound, and I plan to just shove some of that poo poo into the gap and feather down - is there any problem with this? I'll allow extra time for it to set before applying the Redgard over it since it may be kind of thick in places. Unless you're doing a steam shower I wouldn't worry about it. Tile up to the ceiling and then caulk where the tile meets the ceiling. If anything I'd just shove some some mortar up there beforehand and call it a day.
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Sep 28, 2017 02:29
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Josh Lyman posted:Start relay and run capacitor kit came in today and installed them. I have the analog temp controls on the coldest setting but this is what I get: What are my options here? Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 09:17
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Josh Lyman posted:What are my options here? So check this out, many places in your town sell brand new appliances with new warranties that you can acquire simply by bringing some means of payment to exchange for the goods you're desiring. It's a perfect system!
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Sep 28, 2017 12:38
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Josh Lyman posted:While my dishwasher debacle is on hold, this fridge has apparently failed again. It has worked fine since the "repair", though I would periodically hear the relay clicking on and off and the run capacitor unable to start the compressor like in the top video. This afternoon, when I went to bake a frozen pizza, the dough was noticeably softer than expected, and all night the relay has been clicking on and off and the compressor hasn't been able to start, like in the top video. The analog thermometer I placed in the fridge section now reads 60*F. If you had stated this in your earlier posts I missed it... But have you added refrigerant? Perhaps that is an unlikely issue. This seems to be a pretty good read though: https://fridgeman.wordpress.com/2008/06/08/simple-ways-to-know-if-your-fridge-is-low-on-freon/ TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 12:48
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Josh Lyman posted:While my dishwasher debacle is on hold, this fridge has apparently failed again. It has worked fine since the "repair", though I would periodically hear the relay clicking on and off and the run capacitor unable to start the compressor like in the top video. This afternoon, when I went to bake a frozen pizza, the dough was noticeably softer than expected, and all night the relay has been clicking on and off and the compressor hasn't been able to start, like in the top video. The analog thermometer I placed in the fridge section now reads 60*F. I think I recall you mentioning that you're renting in one of your other posts? Correct answer is fuhgettaboudit and complain to your landlord that your poo poo is hosed and need fixed or replaced or you're going to start paying your rent into escrow.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:21
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TheBananaKing posted:If you had stated this in your earlier posts I missed it... But have you added refrigerant? OSU_Matthew posted:I think I recall you mentioning that you're renting in one of your other posts?
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Sep 28, 2017 15:59
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Josh Lyman posted:I can understand the fridge not cooling adequately if it's out of refrigerant, but surely that wouldn't cause the compressor to not start. It could if it has a low pressure cutout switch.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:07
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glynnenstein posted:It could if it has a low pressure cutout switch. This is what I was thinking. It seems unlikely that enough would have leaked out if there's no valve on the thing to add more refrigerant, but if there is and if there is also a low pressure sensor / switch it's possible. I had an astro van that I bought in a gov't auction that had been sitting so long it leaked out nearly all of it's refrigerant and the compressor would kick on and then immediately shut off. This also made it very hard to fill... had to jump the cutout switch and force the compressor on to be able to add enough to get it back to the correct operating pressure.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:18
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Josh Lyman posted:I can understand the fridge not cooling adequately if it's out of refrigerant, but surely that wouldn't cause the compressor to not start. This is the friend who is selling in a year? $1,000 will buy both a not poo poo dishwasher and a budget but not compact fridge.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:34
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Just lol if a homeowner doesn't have a warranty for poo poo like this.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:46
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Wasabi the J posted:Just lol if a homeowner doesn't have a warranty for poo poo like this. Also they're super cheap in the most stereotypically Indian way possible, which he freely admits and takes pride in.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:49
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American Home Shieldquote:COVERED: This option covers the repair or replacement of components and parts that malfunction due to normal wear and tear.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:55
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I can't imagine getting a full home warranty would actually make financial sense in the long term. I could maybe see it in the short term if you're pretty house-poor and want a buffer in case of unexpected expenses, but long-term you really should be building up that buffer yourself rather than paying a company to do it for you.
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Sep 28, 2017 17:19
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Sure, unless you've inherited the appliances from the previous owner (my case) and are unsure of their vintage, or you're renting the place out.
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Sep 28, 2017 17:30
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I have a GE reverse osmosis system, it is one of the ones with a prefilter, a membrane, and a postfilter. I change the pre/post filter once or twice a year. The instructions for changing the filters include taking all three out, temporarily replacing them with dummy cartridges, and cycling a small amount of bleach through the system for 20 minutes to presumably disinfect the lines and small water tank that holds some purified water. Is the whole bleach step worth doing every time I change the filters? It takes a 2 minute switch and tuns it into like a 45 minute process.
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Sep 28, 2017 18:46
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Hey everyone, sorry for the newbie questions but I've tried looking it up and I'm obviously not doing something right. If I was leasing a commercial space that had 480v (3 phase) for power/electricity and I needed to be running approximately 20,000w for at least half of the day, would this be doable/supportable?
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Sep 28, 2017 19:32
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So... I turned off the circuit breaker for the fridge for a few hours and flipped it back on before I headed out 5 hours ago. Now that I'm back home, the fridge is "working" again. Does this make it more or less likely that it's a failing compressor that may or may not work on any given day? On the dishwasher front, homeowner is willing to pay for reliability/performance but doesn't care about noise. It looks like there might be some decent options for $400-450 on super sale? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidai...466QF/205418713 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpoo...0PADM/205506919 http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Top-Control-Built-In-Tall-Tub-Dishwasher-in-Stainless-Steel-with-Steam-Prewash-GDT545PSJSS/206355369 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-24-in-Front-Control-Dishwasher-in-Stainless-Steel-with-Stainless-Steel-Tub-DW80J3020US/205861523 And this one is $330 on secret sale: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpoo...0PADM/205506225 Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 19:35
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MarksMan posted:Hey everyone, sorry for the newbie questions but I've tried looking it up and I'm obviously not doing something right. If I was leasing a commercial space that had 480v (3 phase) for power/electricity and I needed to be running approximately 20,000w for at least half of the day, would this be doable/supportable? 20kw is trivial. You get 17kw usable on a 60a 208v 3ø circuit. Solve for x to get breaker size at 1.00 power factor: 20000 = 408 * sqrt(3) * x * 0.80 is a super naive formula. You must talk to an electrician and your landlord to verify it's available though. You have not provided enough information, and we cannot answer you regardless.
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Sep 28, 2017 20:02
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Wasabi the J posted:Sure, unless you've inherited the appliances from the previous owner (my case) and are unsure of their vintage, or you're renting the place out. I really have to disagree, but as seemingly sensible as these kinds of warranties are, they're mostly not worth the paper on which they're printed. The programs have high deductibles, pay for inferior replacements when needed and send bad service people.
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Sep 28, 2017 20:16
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Droo posted:I have a GE reverse osmosis system, it is one of the ones with a prefilter, a membrane, and a postfilter. I change the pre/post filter once or twice a year. Once or twice a year? It's probably a good idea if you don't want bacteria or mold cultures growing in the system.
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Sep 28, 2017 20:40
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Josh Lyman posted:So... I turned off the circuit breaker for the fridge for a few hours and flipped it back on before I headed out 5 hours ago. Now that I'm back home, the fridge is "working" again. Sears surprisingly has good dishwashers at competitive prices. Also I'd recommend investing in an inline surge protector for both these appliances.
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Sep 28, 2017 20:42
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Mr. Mambold posted:Sears surprisingly has good dishwashers at competitive prices. Also I'd recommend investing in an inline surge protector for both these appliances.
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Sep 28, 2017 21:09
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H110Hawk posted:20kw is trivial. You get 17kw usable on a 60a 208v 3ø circuit. Solve for x to get breaker size at 1.00 power factor: 20000 = 408 * sqrt(3) * x * 0.80 is a super naive formula. You must talk to an electrician and your landlord to verify it's available though. You have not provided enough information, and we cannot answer you regardless. Ok right on, I appreciate the response. The guy I've always used for electrical things I hadn't talked to in a while but we have mutual friends so I'm currently trying to hunt him down. I definitely wouldn't proceed with anything until he looked at the space in person. I know so little about all of this that I don't even try to pretend to act like I know what I'm doing so I leave it to those who do. I was just trying to get a general sense of if my usage requirements would be doable but it sounds like they should be.
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Sep 28, 2017 21:48
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MarksMan posted:Ok right on, I appreciate the response. The guy I've always used for electrical things I hadn't talked to in a while but we have mutual friends so I'm currently trying to hunt him down. I definitely wouldn't proceed with anything until he looked at the space in person. I know so little about all of this that I don't even try to pretend to act like I know what I'm doing so I leave it to those who do. I was just trying to get a general sense of if my usage requirements would be doable but it sounds like they should be. Great. Also make sure you use actual volts, not mobile typo volts. There are a lot of things to think about that are beyond the scope of these here forums such as cooling, safety, permitting, is your *load* 3 phase or just your service, etc, all of which need to be looked at by someone in your local jurisdiction. Edit: \/ That makes so much more sense than 20kw of bitcoins 50% of the time. I thought modern grow cycles were closer to 70% duty cycle on the lights? H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 22:02
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Edit: /\ he has to turn it off when he goes to bed so he doesn't get heatstrokeH110Hawk posted:Great. Also make sure you use actual volts, not mobile typo volts. There are a lot of things to think about that are beyond the scope of these here forums such as cooling, safety, permitting, is your *load* 3 phase or just your service, etc, all of which need to be looked at by someone in your local jurisdiction. also what strain of weed you're growing SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 22:09
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SoundMonkey posted:Edit: /\ he has to turn it off when he goes to bed so he doesn't get heatstroke Lol just depends on whether I can get the genetics from my friend that I want; if so it's original genetics GSC. He has a 60kw thing going in SF of only that. It's nice being able to do this poo poo in a jurisdiction where I don't have to worry about legality, but I was just trying to be respectful of the DIY forum or whatever since I have never posted here and didn't know if I was supposed to beat around the bush about it. I suppose I really wasn't doing a whole lot to conceal the gist of my questions though MarksMan fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 22:27
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I really have to disagree, but as seemingly sensible as these kinds of warranties are, they're mostly not worth the paper on which they're printed. The programs have high deductibles, pay for inferior replacements when needed and send bad service people. ^^This. Warrant companies make their money based on how fast and how cheaply they repair the various claims. When you buy the warranty and mention you have older Lennox systems and want to make sure they will be replaced with the same--they answer is always yes. But when those Lennox systems do die, inevitably you're getting a Goodman or worse as a replacement. When buying a house you'll often get a chance to compare a house with a owner that stays on top maintenance to a house that has been under a home warranty for a decade.
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Sep 28, 2017 22:34
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Josh Lyman posted:We have 2 Sears Appliance Outlets within 20 miles. Are floor models worth considering or should we just stick to new in box? Up to you, idk. Ask them. Shop around, do some comparative pricing.
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Sep 28, 2017 22:40
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I've got a question. Somebody here must know something about this: What the hell is available as far as a decent mailbox (the kind that goes on a post) and how much should it cost? The door just ripped/rusted off the 3rd tinfoil-gauge chinesium POS from LowesDepot. There has to be something better out there, but a quick search leads to a bunch of crap of unknown quality, largely targeted at theft deterrent, which would be nice but not super necessary where I live.
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Sep 28, 2017 23:59
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Motronic posted:I've got a question. Somebody here must know something about this: What the hell is available as far as a decent mailbox (the kind that goes on a post) and how much should it cost? I bought the one at Depot a while back that had a picture of a baseball bat shattering over it. I also really have no real need for the vandalism resistance but that seems to be where you get the solidly built ones. It's made out of excessively thick steel. Full length piano hinge and a magnetic catch. Have had zero issues with it and the finish is perfect, 5 years later. I think it cost $70. Fake e: Might be this one actually Actual e: I'm pretty sure it is that one, and also the first review on Home Depot is amusing - Some guy turned too sharp out of a driveway and ran next to this mailbox. Put a 6' long gash into his truck and a nice dent over the wheel well. The mailbox is fine, if slightly dislodged from its wooden post. Raised by Hamsters fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 01:49
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Josh Lyman posted:We have 2 Sears Appliance Outlets within 20 miles. Are floor models worth considering or should we just stick to new in box? That's where I got mine from last year, and I believe it was a floor model. I've loved mine so far, it's been a great dishwasher. Downside was that the closing latch on the one I bought cracked within a week. However, it was an easy to replace part, so I just unscrewed it and swapped it out for a second model on the floor. I think it was the weird tension of the dishwasher being transported uncrated that caused the initial damage that led to the crack. And also the fact that the most critical latching part is lovely ABS plastic. Like, for fucks sake, really?
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Sep 29, 2017 03:04
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Josh Lyman posted:We have 2 Sears Appliance Outlets within 20 miles. Are floor models worth considering or should we just stick to new in box? I have had good luck with the outlet stores; usually, it's cosmetic damage. They're sitting right out in the open, so you can check them fairly thoroughly. The only problem I had was with a Maytag washer; one of the water inlets had somehow had the mouth mashed a little, so that it leaked no matter how tight the flex hose was screwed. I was able to fix it by shaving the mouth a little with an X-Acto knife. Been five years since, no problems.
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Sep 29, 2017 03:18
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OSU_Matthew posted:That's where I got mine from last year, and I believe it was a floor model. I've loved mine so far, it's been a great dishwasher. Downside was that the closing latch on the one I bought cracked within a week. However, it was an easy to replace part, so I just unscrewed it and swapped it out for a second model on the floor. We got a Kenmore Elite a few years ago after really shopping around. Whisper quiet, all kinds of settings, dual action washing arms. Does a great job on Normal setting. But these crap potmetal flanges on the sides to attach to the cabinet faceframe. Goddammit Why?
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Sep 29, 2017 03:44
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OSU_Matthew posted:
So, related to this. If you buy an appliance somewhere and you are having it delivered, demand to know who the delivery company is and go look them up. The appliance delivery saga was one of the worst parts of our kitchen remodel because of the lovely, lying delivery company. Damaged appliances, lies about parts they'd bring us, wasted time off of work waiting for the tech that whirlpool insisted on sending, and then I ended up fixing the expensive fridge and dishwasher myself because I was fed up. All because of terrible handling by oafs. That said, third rack in a dishwasher has been fantastic, gets a ton of use wrangling small things.
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Sep 29, 2017 04:25
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Josh Lyman posted:We have 2 Sears Appliance Outlets within 20 miles. Are floor models worth considering or should we just stick to new in box? Floor models are definitely worth considering, as long as you inspect them yourself and are fine with whatever's happened to them. I've made some great purchases from there but I've also seen some that looked fine online but had severe damage. As long as you're careful, I'd recommend it as your first stop.
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Sep 29, 2017 07:08
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Motronic posted:I've got a question. Somebody here must know something about this: What the hell is available as far as a decent mailbox (the kind that goes on a post) and how much should it cost? We bought this one: https://www.mailboxworks.com/product/special-lite-town-square-post-mount-mailbox/ Can't say how well it stands up to the outdoors yet, but it's massive (and nice and thick). I was equally unimpressed with the stuff Lowes was selling.
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Sep 29, 2017 13:34
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Raised by Hamsters posted:So, related to this. If you buy an appliance somewhere and you are having it delivered, demand to know who the delivery company is and go look them up. The appliance delivery saga was one of the worst parts of our kitchen remodel because of the lovely, lying delivery company. Totally agree. The delivery company that Best Buy used when we bought a washer/dryer years ago wouldn't give us a 4 hour time frame for delivery until the night before and no delivery was available on weekends. I made my way through 2 levels of management to try to get a specific time (cause my wife and I have to, like, you know, work most of a weekday) and neither of them were willing to do anything.
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Sep 29, 2017 13:52
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I just had new rain gutters installed, which included the addition of a new downspout. I'd like to tie it into my existing drainage pipes, and am looking for suggestions on how to do it most easily. I assumed I would have to just dig up the pipe, cut out a section, and then put in a junction and attach the downspout to that. Then I saw some snap tees and saddle fittings for PVC pipe, that would seemingly allow me to more simply cut a hole in the existing pipe rather than dig all around it (access is relatively confined). However, my drain pipe is what looks like 2" ABS, and after a few quick searches I could not find such fittings for that size and material. Any great suggestions? 
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Sep 30, 2017 02:25
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Steve French posted:Any great suggestions? This video gives you an idea of what to do. (But don't copy that video--there are no cleanouts/ways to clear leaves.) https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-extend-downspout 4" to 6" PVC tied into 8" to 12" black corrugated piping would be my recommendation--but that too is going to variable based on how much roof square footage you have and your climate/location.
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Sep 30, 2017 03:19
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