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I have dark wood(laminate) floors and hate it. I also have that exact bureau.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 10:41 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:12 |
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Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself...
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 11:47 |
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Southern Heel posted:Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself... Brother I tell you now, you wanna get in this game those pockets best run deep.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:10 |
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Southern Heel posted:Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself... There are twenty-five windows. On the first floor alone. Forty-two total. wheeeeeee
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:20 |
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Day 17: didn't I used to have weekends? Day 23: why didn't I pay the money Day 27: all I want is to be able to walk to the kitchen from my bedroom!!! will this never end???
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:23 |
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house_ownership.txt
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:28 |
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I currently have screed setting on the ground floor so I can't actually leave the house and I've got to walk over a scaffold top to get to the fridge. "Why didn't I rent a place during this" is my constant question now.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:39 |
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Also I have no stairs in my house, ironically.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 12:41 |
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Oh I'm definitely about paying for people to do the lovely work, I'm just surprised that it was that much more than I thought. The more I think about it, the more I think I just need to get the bare minimum completed before I get in there, and see how I make do for the first year or two. Can I spot sand and varnish the most egregiously worn areas on the floor? or will it look like hot horseshit? Am I stuck with hand-sanding all those corners and crevices or will a multi-tool do the job, if I were to do myself?
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 14:21 |
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Southern Heel posted:
Ask yourself this, did you ever see yourself owning both an orbital AND random orbital sander?
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 14:36 |
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You will spend £250-£400 on cheap pain in the arse kit and spend a weekend doing one room, or you could pay a man with very expensive equipment £500 to do your whole house in a day.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 14:50 |
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learnincurve posted:You will spend £250-£400 on cheap pain in the arse kit and spend a weekend doing one room, or you could pay a man with very expensive equipment £500 to do your whole house in a day. Understood, the aforementioned quote for flooring had an optional component of doing skirting/picture rail at £22 per square meter - so that's the twice around the perimeter of every room - significantly more than £500 - but I guess I need to get someone in to see. I'm going to have a busy few days with contractors after buying but before moving in, it seems. I just don't know where to draw the line on 'work to do' before I actually move there!
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 14:54 |
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That quote is taking the piss, you could get new skirting and rails put up for less than that per meter.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 14:56 |
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Might it take more time to sand down existing fixtures in situ, hence the quote?
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 16:53 |
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So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway?
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 17:39 |
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Tiny Brontosaurus posted:Yo do you got any good places for mid-century style hardwood dining tables that I haven't already heard of? I wanted to get this solid brass bistro table from CB2 but Much Larger Brontosaurus shot that down because "neither of us are dictators" Where are you located because i know some good dealers in the midwest. They all do vintage though not new. There's a couple in Michigan who seem to not be able to keep Brazilia away from them. If you want to go vintage really stalk your craigslist and the surrounding areas.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 17:45 |
Variable 5 posted:So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway? Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 17:54 |
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Facebook Aunt posted:It might help with recommendations if we knew what is wrong with the dining set you have? It looks fine and fits the space reasonably well. What do you hate about it? Good point, sorry. It's just really beat up; the chairs are 50+ years old with a lot of splintering wood (I replaced the seats themselves a couple of years ago and these things are super rickety at this point. The table itself isn't solid or steady; it's also really dinged up and stained and the leaves are a pain to make function. The style of both the table and chairs are fine, but this particular set has seen a lot of heavy use and maybe a half-dozen cross-state moves and it's ready to move into a quiet retirement as a back-up card table. I would be OK with doing a light-colored wood if folks think that would be a helpful contrast to the dark floors or something like that. My design sensibilities are pretty limited; I just knew that I liked dark wood flooring and cool colors for painting. When it comes to furniture; I have much less of an idea of what I want, unfortunately.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 18:00 |
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Bad Munki posted:Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set. So.... Brutalist civic architecture +20 years?
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 18:11 |
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Need some wrecked 50s cars and random bits of corrugated sheet metal and I'll be able to call it a Fallout homage.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 18:22 |
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My next big home decision is the floor finish downstairs. It'll cover about 70% of the ground floor in one continuous sweep. Originally I was thinking polished concrete but that poo poo's hella expensive. There's now a screed down so if I went that route it'd have to be microcrete or resin which isn't a lot cheaper. Tiling 55sqm costs a fortune. Engineered wood maybe? Which just leaves me with choice paralysis on the types and shades available. Walls will start white and probably stay that way in that area, probably the same for kitchen cabinets, so I'd want to at least counter it a little bit.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 18:53 |
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cheese eats mouse posted:Where are you located because i know some good dealers in the midwest. They all do vintage though not new. There's a couple in Michigan who seem to not be able to keep Brazilia away from them. If you want to go vintage really stalk your craigslist and the surrounding areas. Los Angeles, sadly. All sources of vintage furniture here are insanely picked over or insanely marked up (by the people who did the over-picking). I even finally made the excursion to the legendary Rose Bowl Flea Market and was pretty disappointed in the furniture offerings. So I think I'm gonna buy new but vintage-inspired, just looking for something nicer than West Elm but cheaper than DWR.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 19:47 |
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Tiny Brontosaurus posted:Los Angeles, sadly. All sources of vintage furniture here are insanely picked over or insanely marked up (by the people who did the over-picking). I even finally made the excursion to the legendary Rose Bowl Flea Market and was pretty disappointed in the furniture offerings. So I think I'm gonna buy new but vintage-inspired, just looking for something nicer than West Elm but cheaper than DWR. I've heard the west coast is brutal in terms of MCM vintage. Have you looked at Joybird? https://joybird.com/
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 20:59 |
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cheese eats mouse posted:I've heard the west coast is brutal in terms of MCM vintage. Too rich for my blood Hoping to find a table & chairs for under 1k
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 21:09 |
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In asking myself the question “1k?? At what point would it be cheaper to ship stuff over from the UK?” I found high end MCM porn for you all. https://danish-homestore.com/acatalog/Danish-designer-furniture-p1.html Not the stuff you can pick up in charity shops unless you get lucky.
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 21:36 |
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Variable 5 posted:So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway? Bad Munki posted:Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set. Probably looking for the "Fun Guy" aesthetic
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# ? Sep 29, 2017 23:25 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:Engineered wood maybe? Which just leaves me with choice paralysis on the types and shades available. We chose the model of laminate flooring with the highest scratch and water resistance. Basically it's designed for dogs, but applied to little kids. The color is a neutral light Oak that conceals dust and food splatters pretty well. My husband got the same but in a dark cherry for his office. It looks amazing but I'm glad it's not in our LDK because it would match the dining table and cabinets too closely.
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 00:00 |
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peanut posted:We chose the model of laminate flooring with the highest scratch and water resistance. Basically it's designed for dogs, but applied to little kids. The color is a neutral light Oak that conceals dust and food splatters pretty well. Not a bad idea. There Will Be Dogs.
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 08:57 |
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The wallpaper that came in my half bath is quite something. Should I keep it and renovate the rest of the bathroom or bid it goodbye?
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 13:10 |
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If you like it maybe you could tone down the beige and brown in everything else to make it less dingey? Or is that mostly the lighting?
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 14:02 |
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Time Trial posted:The wallpaper that came in my half bath is quite something. Should I keep it and renovate the rest of the bathroom or bid it goodbye? It's so odd I'd say keep it and add some green.
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 16:27 |
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Time Trial posted:or bidet goodbye?
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 17:04 |
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Motherfucker
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 17:10 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:My next big home decision is the floor finish downstairs. It'll cover about 70% of the ground floor in one continuous sweep. If I'm understanding you and you currently have a concrete slab sitting on the ground, you'll want to be sure you put down a membrane first before installing any sort of wood or laminate, or you'll end up replacing it due to moisture damage. There are polished concrete floors in my office and there's no way I'd put them in my house. They're hell on your feet, a super-slick slipping hazard when wet, and the inevitable cracks will seek out coffee to suck up. I'm going to suggest something that will sound tacky, but can actually look good, be inexpensive, be easy to clean, and wear well if you get the right stuff: wood-look vinyl. Maybe something like this if you like a dark and rustic look, or something like this if you want a more neutral tone (and have more to spend). If you choose to use this type of flooring, be sure to see and touch it in the store, and be sure to get an installer who knows the tricks that make it look better, like trimming to avoid obvious repeating patterns. For what it's worth, this was at the cheapest price point my local floor place had when I bought it:
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# ? Sep 30, 2017 23:20 |
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Tricky Ed posted:For what it's worth, this was at the cheapest price point my local floor place had when I bought it: Looks nice!
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 06:10 |
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I have wood look vinyl in every room bar the kitchen which has laminate for the love of god make sure they prepare the floor first. My fitters didn’t remove/flatten all the nails upstairs and now I’ve got duck tape marking where each one is (and preventing splitting) and that’s where my rugs have to go.
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 07:03 |
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Tricky Ed posted:If I'm understanding you and you currently have a concrete slab sitting on the ground, you'll want to be sure you put down a membrane first before installing any sort of wood or laminate, or you'll end up replacing it due to moisture damage. The exact layers depends where you're stood in the room since some sections have slabs which are a few months old and contain insulation, whereas other sections have 100 year old slabs with no insulation. Regardless, on top of that there's a foil insulation layer and a moisture barrier, then piping on top of that and capped off with an anhydrite poured screed which is what's there now. So we should be good for moisture, but I'm looking at underlays regardless. Tricky Ed posted:There are polished concrete floors in my office and there's no way I'd put them in my house. They're hell on your feet, a super-slick slipping hazard when wet, and the inevitable cracks will seek out coffee to suck up. Microcrete and resin wind up a little different to a full 100mm poured concrete but since their intent is to mimic true polished concrete I'm going to assume what you've said applies there too, which is worrying. Tricky Ed posted:I'm going to suggest something that will sound tacky, but can actually look good, be inexpensive, be easy to clean, and wear well if you get the right stuff: wood-look vinyl. Maybe something like this if you like a dark and rustic look, or something like this if you want a more neutral tone (and have more to spend). If you choose to use this type of flooring, be sure to see and touch it in the store, and be sure to get an installer who knows the tricks that make it look better, like trimming to avoid obvious repeating patterns. The way you have it does look OK, but even if I manage to make it not look like vinyl it'll still feel like vinyl, and I think that's a dealbreaker for me. Edit: Did you choose to lay the "boards" diagonally or did the fitter do that? It's one of things where vinyl gives you the ability to do so for aesthetics if you want which is cool but no real boards would be laid that way if you're aiming to replicate floorboards. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Oct 1, 2017 |
# ? Oct 1, 2017 07:23 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:The way you have it does look OK, but even if I manage to make it not look like vinyl it'll still feel like vinyl, and I think that's a dealbreaker for me. Sure, as I said, it's not for everyone, and no one's going to be fooled into thinking it's wood. I almost dismissed it entirely, so I'm glad I looked at it in the store. Ultimately I do plan to upgrade to wood in that house when I can afford to, but this should get me through the next few years, and the material was under $900 for ~80 square meters. My contractor suggested the layout. The house is 90+ years old and the walls aren't particularly square or plumb and the floors aren't completely level. Laying the "planks" diagonally like that hides the unevenness where parallel lines would have drawn attention to it. I have seen that done with regular hardwood as well, but I agree it's uncommon. It also creates about 5% more material waste and installation costs due to the cuts you have to make. Also, thinking about it, the concrete in my workplace probably wasn't designed to be polished, so the staining probably isn't as bad with materials that are intended to be exposed and polished. It just triggered a nerve with me.
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 07:50 |
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Tricky Ed posted:My contractor suggested the layout. The house is 90+ years old and the walls aren't particularly square or plumb and the floors aren't completely level. Laying the "planks" diagonally like that hides the unevenness where parallel lines would have drawn attention to it. I have seen that done with regular hardwood as well, but I agree it's uncommon. It also creates about 5% more material waste and installation costs due to the cuts you have to make. Makes sense. It's one of those things I guarantee I wouldn't have noticed 6 months ago, but having seen the bones of a house I can't help but think about the imaginary joists. Tricky Ed posted:Also, thinking about it, the concrete in my workplace probably wasn't designed to be polished, so the staining probably isn't as bad with materials that are intended to be exposed and polished. It just triggered a nerve with me. Resin is likely springier than concrete too, but I dunno. I like the look but I don't like the price. I keep flip-flopping.
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 08:06 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:12 |
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crossposted from crappy construction thread. best faucet installation i've seen in a while. if the tap is turned to either full hot or full cold, it can't turn on at all, due to the countertop blocking the tap if you turn it on to full blast, the only setting it can be on is lukewarm
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# ? Oct 1, 2017 11:18 |