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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I have dark wood(laminate) floors and hate it. I also have that exact bureau.

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Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself...

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Southern Heel posted:

Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself...

Brother I tell you now, you wanna get in this game those pockets best run deep.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Southern Heel posted:

Mother fucker, just getting quoted £4k to sand, varnish and fit insulation between the planks of the floor. I think I'd better do this one myself...
If I were to replace the windows in my old home with similar-quality but modern construction, it would probably cost about $1100 a window, though obviously I could cut that a substantial amount if I went with cheaper windows that I'd have to replace again in twenty to thirty years. Fully refinishing the windows would run $916 per window.

There are twenty-five windows.

On the first floor alone. Forty-two total.

wheeeeeee

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
Day 17: didn't I used to have weekends?

Day 23: why didn't I pay the money

Day 27: all I want is to be able to walk to the kitchen from my bedroom!!! will this never end???

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

house_ownership.txt

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I currently have screed setting on the ground floor so I can't actually leave the house and I've got to walk over a scaffold top to get to the fridge.

"Why didn't I rent a place during this" is my constant question now.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Also I have no stairs in my house, ironically.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Oh I'm definitely about paying for people to do the lovely work, I'm just surprised that it was that much more than I thought. The more I think about it, the more I think I just need to get the bare minimum completed before I get in there, and see how I make do for the first year or two.

Can I spot sand and varnish the most egregiously worn areas on the floor? or will it look like hot horseshit?

Am I stuck with hand-sanding all those corners and crevices or will a multi-tool do the job, if I were to do myself?

Suspect Bucket
Jan 15, 2012

SHRIMPDOR WAS A MAN
I mean, HE WAS A SHRIMP MAN
er, maybe also A DRAGON
or possibly
A MINOR LEAGUE BASEBALL TEAM
BUT HE WAS STILL
SHRIMPDOR

Southern Heel posted:


Am I stuck with hand-sanding all those corners and crevices or will a multi-tool do the job, if I were to do myself?

Ask yourself this, did you ever see yourself owning both an orbital AND random orbital sander?

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
You will spend £250-£400 on cheap pain in the arse kit and spend a weekend doing one room, or you could pay a man with very expensive equipment £500 to do your whole house in a day.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

learnincurve posted:

You will spend £250-£400 on cheap pain in the arse kit and spend a weekend doing one room, or you could pay a man with very expensive equipment £500 to do your whole house in a day.

Understood, the aforementioned quote for flooring had an optional component of doing skirting/picture rail at £22 per square meter - so that's the twice around the perimeter of every room - significantly more than £500 - but I guess I need to get someone in to see. I'm going to have a busy few days with contractors after buying but before moving in, it seems.

I just don't know where to draw the line on 'work to do' before I actually move there!

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
That quote is taking the piss, you could get new skirting and rails put up for less than that per meter.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Might it take more time to sand down existing fixtures in situ, hence the quote?

Variable 5
Apr 17, 2007
We do these things not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy.
Grimey Drawer
So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway?

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Tiny Brontosaurus posted:

Yo do you got any good places for mid-century style hardwood dining tables that I haven't already heard of? I wanted to get this solid brass bistro table from CB2 but Much Larger Brontosaurus shot that down because "neither of us are dictators" :colbert:

Where are you located because i know some good dealers in the midwest. They all do vintage though not new. There's a couple in Michigan who seem to not be able to keep Brazilia away from them. If you want to go vintage really stalk your craigslist and the surrounding areas.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Variable 5 posted:

So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway?

Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Facebook Aunt posted:

It might help with recommendations if we knew what is wrong with the dining set you have? It looks fine and fits the space reasonably well. What do you hate about it?

Good point, sorry. It's just really beat up; the chairs are 50+ years old with a lot of splintering wood (I replaced the seats themselves a couple of years ago and these things are super rickety at this point. The table itself isn't solid or steady; it's also really dinged up and stained and the leaves are a pain to make function. The style of both the table and chairs are fine, but this particular set has seen a lot of heavy use and maybe a half-dozen cross-state moves and it's ready to move into a quiet retirement as a back-up card table.

I would be OK with doing a light-colored wood if folks think that would be a helpful contrast to the dark floors or something like that. My design sensibilities are pretty limited; I just knew that I liked dark wood flooring and cool colors for painting. When it comes to furniture; I have much less of an idea of what I want, unfortunately.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

Bad Munki posted:

Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set.

So.... Brutalist civic architecture +20 years?

Variable 5
Apr 17, 2007
We do these things not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy.
Grimey Drawer
Need some wrecked 50s cars and random bits of corrugated sheet metal and I'll be able to call it a Fallout homage.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


My next big home decision is the floor finish downstairs. It'll cover about 70% of the ground floor in one continuous sweep.

Originally I was thinking polished concrete but that poo poo's hella expensive. There's now a screed down so if I went that route it'd have to be microcrete or resin which isn't a lot cheaper. Tiling 55sqm costs a fortune. Engineered wood maybe? Which just leaves me with choice paralysis on the types and shades available.

Walls will start white and probably stay that way in that area, probably the same for kitchen cabinets, so I'd want to at least counter it a little bit.

Tiny Brontosaurus
Aug 1, 2013

by Lowtax

cheese eats mouse posted:

Where are you located because i know some good dealers in the midwest. They all do vintage though not new. There's a couple in Michigan who seem to not be able to keep Brazilia away from them. If you want to go vintage really stalk your craigslist and the surrounding areas.

Los Angeles, sadly. All sources of vintage furniture here are insanely picked over or insanely marked up (by the people who did the over-picking). I even finally made the excursion to the legendary Rose Bowl Flea Market and was pretty disappointed in the furniture offerings. So I think I'm gonna buy new but vintage-inspired, just looking for something nicer than West Elm but cheaper than DWR.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Tiny Brontosaurus posted:

Los Angeles, sadly. All sources of vintage furniture here are insanely picked over or insanely marked up (by the people who did the over-picking). I even finally made the excursion to the legendary Rose Bowl Flea Market and was pretty disappointed in the furniture offerings. So I think I'm gonna buy new but vintage-inspired, just looking for something nicer than West Elm but cheaper than DWR.

I've heard the west coast is brutal in terms of MCM vintage. :(

Have you looked at Joybird?

https://joybird.com/

Tiny Brontosaurus
Aug 1, 2013

by Lowtax

cheese eats mouse posted:

I've heard the west coast is brutal in terms of MCM vintage. :(

Have you looked at Joybird?

https://joybird.com/

Too rich for my blood :(

Hoping to find a table & chairs for under 1k

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
In asking myself the question “1k?? At what point would it be cheaper to ship stuff over from the UK?” I found high end MCM porn for you all. https://danish-homestore.com/acatalog/Danish-designer-furniture-p1.html

Not the stuff you can pick up in charity shops unless you get lucky.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Variable 5 posted:

So Harvey ate my walls and furniture with 14" of sewage water. Is this the thread I can post pictures of my layout and ask for advice since I'm gutting everything anyway?

Bad Munki posted:

Heck yeah, unless Post-Apocalyptic Decay is the aesthetic you're after, in which case, you're set.

Probably looking for the "Fun Guy" aesthetic

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Jaded Burnout posted:

Engineered wood maybe? Which just leaves me with choice paralysis on the types and shades available.

We chose the model of laminate flooring with the highest scratch and water resistance. Basically it's designed for dogs, but applied to little kids. The color is a neutral light Oak that conceals dust and food splatters pretty well.
My husband got the same but in a dark cherry for his office. It looks amazing but I'm glad it's not in our LDK because it would match the dining table and cabinets too closely.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


peanut posted:

We chose the model of laminate flooring with the highest scratch and water resistance. Basically it's designed for dogs, but applied to little kids. The color is a neutral light Oak that conceals dust and food splatters pretty well.
My husband got the same but in a dark cherry for his office. It looks amazing but I'm glad it's not in our LDK because it would match the dining table and cabinets too closely.

Not a bad idea. There Will Be Dogs.

Time Trial
Aug 5, 2004

A saucerful of cyanide
The wallpaper that came in my half bath is quite something. Should I keep it and renovate the rest of the bathroom or bid it goodbye?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


If you like it maybe you could tone down the beige and brown in everything else to make it less dingey? Or is that mostly the lighting?

Magic Hate Ball
May 6, 2007

ha ha ha!
you've already paid for this

Time Trial posted:

The wallpaper that came in my half bath is quite something. Should I keep it and renovate the rest of the bathroom or bid it goodbye?



It's so odd I'd say keep it and add some green.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Time Trial posted:

or bidet goodbye?

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Motherfucker

Tricky Ed
Aug 18, 2010

It is important to avoid confusion. This is the one that's okay to lick.


Jaded Burnout posted:

My next big home decision is the floor finish downstairs. It'll cover about 70% of the ground floor in one continuous sweep.

Originally I was thinking polished concrete but that poo poo's hella expensive. There's now a screed down so if I went that route it'd have to be microcrete or resin which isn't a lot cheaper. Tiling 55sqm costs a fortune. Engineered wood maybe? Which just leaves me with choice paralysis on the types and shades available.

Walls will start white and probably stay that way in that area, probably the same for kitchen cabinets, so I'd want to at least counter it a little bit.

If I'm understanding you and you currently have a concrete slab sitting on the ground, you'll want to be sure you put down a membrane first before installing any sort of wood or laminate, or you'll end up replacing it due to moisture damage. There are polished concrete floors in my office and there's no way I'd put them in my house. They're hell on your feet, a super-slick slipping hazard when wet, and the inevitable cracks will seek out coffee to suck up.

I'm going to suggest something that will sound tacky, but can actually look good, be inexpensive, be easy to clean, and wear well if you get the right stuff: wood-look vinyl. Maybe something like this if you like a dark and rustic look, or something like this if you want a more neutral tone (and have more to spend). If you choose to use this type of flooring, be sure to see and touch it in the store, and be sure to get an installer who knows the tricks that make it look better, like trimming to avoid obvious repeating patterns.

For what it's worth, this was at the cheapest price point my local floor place had when I bought it:

Tiny Brontosaurus
Aug 1, 2013

by Lowtax

Tricky Ed posted:

For what it's worth, this was at the cheapest price point my local floor place had when I bought it:


Looks nice!

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
I have wood look vinyl in every room bar the kitchen which has laminate :) for the love of god make sure they prepare the floor first. My fitters didn’t remove/flatten all the nails upstairs and now I’ve got duck tape marking where each one is (and preventing splitting) and that’s where my rugs have to go.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Tricky Ed posted:

If I'm understanding you and you currently have a concrete slab sitting on the ground, you'll want to be sure you put down a membrane first before installing any sort of wood or laminate, or you'll end up replacing it due to moisture damage.

The exact layers depends where you're stood in the room since some sections have slabs which are a few months old and contain insulation, whereas other sections have 100 year old slabs with no insulation.

Regardless, on top of that there's a foil insulation layer and a moisture barrier, then piping on top of that and capped off with an anhydrite poured screed which is what's there now. So we should be good for moisture, but I'm looking at underlays regardless.

Tricky Ed posted:

There are polished concrete floors in my office and there's no way I'd put them in my house. They're hell on your feet, a super-slick slipping hazard when wet, and the inevitable cracks will seek out coffee to suck up.

Microcrete and resin wind up a little different to a full 100mm poured concrete but since their intent is to mimic true polished concrete I'm going to assume what you've said applies there too, which is worrying.

Tricky Ed posted:

I'm going to suggest something that will sound tacky, but can actually look good, be inexpensive, be easy to clean, and wear well if you get the right stuff: wood-look vinyl. Maybe something like this if you like a dark and rustic look, or something like this if you want a more neutral tone (and have more to spend). If you choose to use this type of flooring, be sure to see and touch it in the store, and be sure to get an installer who knows the tricks that make it look better, like trimming to avoid obvious repeating patterns.

For what it's worth, this was at the cheapest price point my local floor place had when I bought it:


The way you have it does look OK, but even if I manage to make it not look like vinyl it'll still feel like vinyl, and I think that's a dealbreaker for me.

Edit: Did you choose to lay the "boards" diagonally or did the fitter do that? It's one of things where vinyl gives you the ability to do so for aesthetics if you want which is cool but no real boards would be laid that way if you're aiming to replicate floorboards.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Oct 1, 2017

Tricky Ed
Aug 18, 2010

It is important to avoid confusion. This is the one that's okay to lick.


Jaded Burnout posted:

The way you have it does look OK, but even if I manage to make it not look like vinyl it'll still feel like vinyl, and I think that's a dealbreaker for me.

Edit: Did you choose to lay the "boards" diagonally or did the fitter do that? It's one of things where vinyl gives you the ability to do so for aesthetics if you want which is cool but no real boards would be laid that way if you're aiming to replicate floorboards.

Sure, as I said, it's not for everyone, and no one's going to be fooled into thinking it's wood. I almost dismissed it entirely, so I'm glad I looked at it in the store. Ultimately I do plan to upgrade to wood in that house when I can afford to, but this should get me through the next few years, and the material was under $900 for ~80 square meters.

My contractor suggested the layout. The house is 90+ years old and the walls aren't particularly square or plumb and the floors aren't completely level. Laying the "planks" diagonally like that hides the unevenness where parallel lines would have drawn attention to it. I have seen that done with regular hardwood as well, but I agree it's uncommon. It also creates about 5% more material waste and installation costs due to the cuts you have to make.

Also, thinking about it, the concrete in my workplace probably wasn't designed to be polished, so the staining probably isn't as bad with materials that are intended to be exposed and polished. It just triggered a nerve with me.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Tricky Ed posted:

My contractor suggested the layout. The house is 90+ years old and the walls aren't particularly square or plumb and the floors aren't completely level. Laying the "planks" diagonally like that hides the unevenness where parallel lines would have drawn attention to it. I have seen that done with regular hardwood as well, but I agree it's uncommon. It also creates about 5% more material waste and installation costs due to the cuts you have to make.

Makes sense. It's one of those things I guarantee I wouldn't have noticed 6 months ago, but having seen the bones of a house I can't help but think about the imaginary joists.

Tricky Ed posted:

Also, thinking about it, the concrete in my workplace probably wasn't designed to be polished, so the staining probably isn't as bad with materials that are intended to be exposed and polished. It just triggered a nerve with me.

Resin is likely springier than concrete too, but I dunno. I like the look but I don't like the price. I keep flip-flopping.

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SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


crossposted from crappy construction thread. best faucet installation i've seen in a while.

if the tap is turned to either full hot or full cold, it can't turn on at all, due to the countertop blocking the tap


if you turn it on to full blast, the only setting it can be on is lukewarm

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