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I am 100% certain that it is the drain pipe for the gutters. I'm not 100% certain that it is 2" ABS, I have not measure it but it's definitely too small to be 3" and I don't know any other material that it would be made of. I bought the house recently and it would not even remotely surprise me that the previous owners put in a grossly undersized drain pipe for the gutters. Thanks for the link, I will take a look e: I had actually looked at that earlier. I'm not extending the drain, I'm just connecting to an existing one. The new downspout was added in between two existing ones in the mid section of the house, which is why the drain line already exists there. Steve French fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 03:43
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That looks too small to be a drain/waste line...
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Sep 30, 2017 04:09
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PainterofCrap posted:That looks too small to be a drain/waste line... It probably is too small, but it is indeed a drain line. To be clear, it is just for the gutters, and does not connect to the sewer lateral. Just goes out onto the street.
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Sep 30, 2017 04:49
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Steve French posted:It probably is too small, but it is indeed a drain line. To be clear, it is just for the gutters, and does not connect to the sewer lateral. Just goes out onto the street. I just replaced all of the corrugated mistake our previous owners put in with drain line. You won't find anything for 2" drain pipe at all. Everything is designed for 3-4" (Primarily 4") PVC. If that is indeed your drain pipe, A> it is too small, B> to make it "fit" you are going to have to buy adapters and sizers to bring it up to 4". That is way too small to be an effective drainage system. If that is the case, I would not add your downspout into that system unless you tear out the entire line to the exit and make it larger. Make 110% sure you aren't about to cut your main. It may sound repetitive but take the time to find the inlet to your house and verify. If that is 2", you're going to have to buy a tee, then a small bit of pipe, then put this, then put some 4" pipe, then something like this to pipe the downspout directly into the drainage. however, with it being 2", as I said before, I'd be incredibly hesitant to just patch it in.
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Sep 30, 2017 14:42
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Do you have any better alternatives other than replacing the entire drain line? This is not intended to be a permanent solution, and certainly seems better than just dumping the water out on the soil right next to my foundation. I'm not going to be able to replace the drain lines fully before this winter, and I will be repairing/replacing much of my foundation soon, possibly next summer, and would replace the drain lines then (they run down hill along the foundation, my house is on a hillside with a gable roof, and the gutters run basically the same direction as the fall line). I'd fear that anything major I do to replace the drain lines now (which would require busting up a fair amount of concrete) would likely have to be redone at that time anyway. I'll post some more photos in a minute so that we can stop talking about whether this is really a drain line. e: Other existing downspouts:   The outlet on the street, newspaper for size:  The top end of the line I've dug up, just 8 feet or so directly uphill along the foundation:  And my water supply. 3/4" copper, street side of the house, not anywhere close to the 2" ABS I am looking at.  Steve French fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 17:30
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Where do you live? Do you have very little rain? The leaves in your picture have me thinking you're not in a desert. You also mentioned this was an added downspout, which makes me wonder why you added a downspout? If the problem was water gurgling out the top of your gutters--I think I know why. A 2" drain won't handle the runoff from a shed roof, much less a house roof. The other issue would be clogs. The best gutter guards don't stop all debris and constricting a drain (going from multiple 2x3 downspouts to a 2" pipe kind of constricting) is only going to exacerbate clogging in your buried drain lines. Also, might be a good idea to have one these around before you cut into anything--just in case. https://smile.amazon.com/ER-Emergency-Ready-8SP-Multi-Use/dp/B008DEYYAC or https://www.walmart.com/ip/Orbit-53266-28-in-Curb-Key/21903040 e: you posted as I was typing  they are indeed drain lines!
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 18:10
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/InvisaFlow-StealthFlow-29-in-Black-Vinyl-Downspout-Extension/3501756 These will keep the water away from your foundation and out of your perimeter beds. Not very attractive long term, but they will get your through the winter. I can understand a bit why you are using multiple, smaller drain lines--depending on your roof size and rain volume, combining the drain lines into one outflow can produce a torrent that rivals an open fire hydrant. Your neighbors would probably not be big fans of your outflow launching into the middle of the street.
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Sep 30, 2017 18:19
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I live in the SF area, so not the desert, but it's generally pretty dry, and while we have wet winters they're not that wet by the standards of some other parts of the country. Each of those drain lines is for roughly ~800 square feet of roof. And to be clear, it's not that "I'm using" multiple small drain lines: this is a (mild fixer) house that I bought earlier this year, and these undersized drain lines are just one of many questionable things the previous owners did. I have no particular attachment to this design, I just want to deal with the drainage as best I can for this coming winter (since as mentioned replacing the drain lines entirely is not feasible in the next couple of months). As for new downspout: I just had the roof redone, along with the gutters and downspouts. The contractor installing the downspouts pointed out that the previously existing downspout at the far rear of the house (that connected to the open end of the line I shared a picture of) was not placed at a low point in the gutter, and so we put the new downspout in a different location that would drain better. It's not really an additional downspout, it's just been moved.
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Sep 30, 2017 18:41
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how is your yard sloped? Is it flat? When are you planning on redoing the lovely drain system and putting in proper drainage? If your yard is sloped well away from your house (I think 10% is the recommended for the first few feet), then just dump it on the ground for now, or use what HycoCam posted (or a gutter splash). If you're planning on replacing the drains in the next year or two, it is a cheap solution that will work until then. If your hard doesn't drain worth a poo poo, then you're probably going to have to look at spending time and money. Is water under the house an issue now?
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Oct 1, 2017 03:05
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The yard is sloped, probably roughly 10%. As I mentioned earlier, the fall line is parallel with the gutters and the ridge of the roof, so there is one drain line on either side of the house that runs right along the foundation straight down the fall line. This is why I intend to fully replace them with better drainage in 1-2 years when I get foundation work done. I have not owned the house through a winter yet, so I don't know yet whether there are issues with water going into/under the house; there are no major outward signs of it.
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Oct 1, 2017 04:17
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 having a problem with my toilet and it keeps running after I flush it. Maybe 10% of the time it works normally, but the other 90% it will either run for 5-10 minutes or it won't stop until I lift the tank lid off and mess with the drum pictured above.The problem seems to be that the black drum (right below the red cap) isn't able to rise high enough, like something is stuck somewhere, but I'm not sure what. I rent and the landlord has someone coming next week to look at this and a few other issues, but is there any quick fix you guys can think of? It's pretty annoying at night when I use the bathroom and have to wait for it to turn off before trying to fall asleep again. Edit: and holy gently caress why is there mold on the back wall? Guessing condensation from the lid causes it-I just moved here a month ago.
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Oct 1, 2017 12:03
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Does damp spread without a continued water source? A small patch of damp has spread significantly on some drywall, and the builder is suggesting it'll be fine to cut out and replace and that it likely came from being damp before it was fitted.
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Oct 1, 2017 15:24
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nwiniwn posted:
That little screw is an adjuster, you can try giving it a turn or two. If this is literally your only bathroom leave the lid off until Monday. If you have 2 and want to learn basic plumbing toilet innards are really easy to youtube repair. Parts are cheap, you need a wrench, maybe channel locks, and Teflon tape. Confirm with your landlord before screwing around, over torquing porcelain leads to replace the toilet failure, under torquing leads to a few cups of clean water on your floor.
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Oct 1, 2017 16:02
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nwiniwn posted:
Those auto shutoffs are a cheap replacement if that one's broken, but it's probably working fine. On yours it looks like that Phillips knob is the guide that adjust the leveler up and down. You may have to play with that some, adjust it upward maybe. Sometimes the chain will loop under the flap to the right (and out of your picture) right where it shouldn't be and impede the thing from filling naturally. And yeah, that look like a bit of mold- it's in a 100% humidity environment. Scrub it off with bleach or something.
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Oct 1, 2017 16:06
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I bought the one at Depot a while back that had a picture of a baseball bat shattering over it. I also really have no real need for the vandalism resistance but that seems to be where you get the solidly built ones. It's made out of excessively thick steel. Full length piano hinge and a magnetic catch. Have had zero issues with it and the finish is perfect, 5 years later. I think it cost $70. Thank you. I didn't realize they had those - or maybe they didn't the last time I had to replace mine. That is exactly what I bought and installed yesterday. Looks like it should last a whole lot longer than the sheet metal ones. devicenull posted:We bought this one: https://www.mailboxworks.com/product/special-lite-town-square-post-mount-mailbox/ Thanks - those do look nice, but cost/convenience won out in the end.
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Oct 1, 2017 16:27
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nwiniwn posted:
Is the water level at the very top of that black overflow tube on the right? If so, that's where the constant water running is coming from. Try lowering the float a little by turning that knurled plastic screw.
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Oct 1, 2017 16:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:Does damp spread without a continued water source? A small patch of damp has spread significantly on some drywall, and the builder is suggesting it'll be fine to cut out and replace and that it likely came from being damp before it was fitted. I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I could see that maybe happening if wet lumber was used to frame the house and then they slapped drywall up before the lumber had a chance to dry out properly. In that case the "continued water source" would be the water in the wood. But that also sounds like pretty crappy construction to me, which could lead to all kinds of mold problems down the road, so I hope that's not what you're dealing with.
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Oct 1, 2017 18:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I could see that maybe happening if wet lumber was used to frame the house and then they slapped drywall up before the lumber had a chance to dry out properly. In that case the "continued water source" would be the water in the wood. The reasoning is that the drywall itself was damp when put up (which I believe) and that the damp/mold is spreading from that spot on the board rather than a water source behind the board (which I'm less convinced about).
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Oct 1, 2017 18:42
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Pretty sure I know where this is going to go. I have a dark corner of my basement I was hoping I could add a pull chain light to. Saw that there was a junction box there, opened it up and saw some cloth wiring (no surprise in my house) spliced up. I'm going to assume that this is already pretty crowded for this box (if not against code altogether) and that it wouldn't be safe to add a pigtail to each slice (already 3 wires) to add the light to this box. Sanity check? 
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Oct 1, 2017 18:51
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The Dave posted:Pretty sure I know where this is going to go. I love the romex support in the background.
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Oct 1, 2017 21:16
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Oh yeah that put a smile on my face too.
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Oct 1, 2017 21:22
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You can get a junction box extension that screws onto the existing box and gives you more volume to play with. Means moving your fixture down a couple inches, of course, but you shouldn't have any trouble fitting all of your pigtails into the box.
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Oct 1, 2017 21:33
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Jaded Burnout posted:The reasoning is that the drywall itself was damp when put up (which I believe) and that the damp/mold is spreading from that spot on the board rather than a water source behind the board (which I'm less convinced about). Just cut it out and see, you can't leave it there anyway.
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Oct 1, 2017 21:39
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Bozart posted:Just cut it out and see, you can't leave it there anyway. Yeah that's going to happen, but as it's 6m up I might not get eyes on it before it gets replaced.
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Oct 1, 2017 22:10
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Josh Lyman posted:While my dishwasher debacle is on hold, this fridge has apparently failed again. It has worked fine since the "repair", though I would periodically hear the relay clicking on and off and the run capacitor unable to start the compressor like in the top video. This afternoon, when I went to bake a frozen pizza, the dough was noticeably softer than expected, and all night the relay has been clicking on and off and the compressor hasn't been able to start, like in the top video. The analog thermometer I placed in the fridge section now reads 60*F. This is your last stop with a refrigerator compressor that's failing: https://www.amazon.com/Start-Capacitor-Overload-ERP410-RCO410/dp/B0087EHNQK One of those can get you by for days, months, or possibly even years, but there is no way of knowing.
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Oct 2, 2017 01:53
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I'm installing a floating laminate floor in my apartment and found some older carpet staples that had been hammered down by I'm assuming my landlord when he installed the carpet. They're in the subfloor somewhat deeper than modern carpet staples but are pretty flat after being hammered into the floor. Should I go through the effort of removing those or just hammer any others? I got the ones up that were used on my carpet. Basically how flat should me subfloor be wrt staples.
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Oct 2, 2017 15:18
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I think the previous owners of my house removed the lint trap from their dryer and then never gave a poo poo. So now I'm trying to replace the duct, but it goes between two walls in a space that is slightly smaller than a standard foil duct, and has to go around a slight curve at the top before it gets to the hole in the attic floor that then leads through the roof.   I dropped a line through and tried to pull the duct through with force, but it just shredded all 20ft of it (I think it got caught on the electrical box that houses the dryer plug, as well as years of lint). I really don't want to have to bust the wall out (even though I already have to patch where I fell through the attic), does anyone have any advice or alternate products that could work?
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Oct 2, 2017 16:02
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Are you trying to run flexible duct for 20+ feet and inside a wall? You typically don't want to run a dryer vent more than 25'. And when you are calculating length--every 90 degree angle adds 5' to the length. i.e. your picture has 15' for length in the bends before adding the straight lengths. Having too long a dryer run results in condensation happening before the air can get out of your house. Long vertical runs exacerbate the condensation problem. There are booster fans you can add to long runs, but those should be a last resort. You also do not want to be using flexible duct work anywhere you can't see it, especially for a dryer. Is there anyway to reroute your dryer vent to come out the side of the house? How far is the dryer from the attic roof?
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Oct 2, 2017 19:12
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cheese eats mouse posted:I'm installing a floating laminate floor in my apartment and found some older carpet staples that had been hammered down by I'm assuming my landlord when he installed the carpet. They're in the subfloor somewhat deeper than modern carpet staples but are pretty flat after being hammered into the floor. Should I go through the effort of removing those or just hammer any others? I got the ones up that were used on my carpet. I think you'd be fine just hammering them flat if you're using decent underlayment. Recently used Pergo Gold and it's thick enough to smooth out minor imperfections. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-GOLD-100-sq-ft-Premium-3mm-Flooring-Underlayment/1000094785
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Oct 2, 2017 19:37
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socketwrencher posted:I think you'd be fine just hammering them flat if you're using decent underlayment. Recently used Pergo Gold and it's thick enough to smooth out minor imperfections. Yea my friend is giving me some flooring from her grandpa's house that was never used. Seems to be good stuff and also what I think to be a 1.5-2mm foam underlayment. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 20:41
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cheese eats mouse posted:I'm installing a floating laminate floor in my apartment and found some older carpet staples that had been hammered down by I'm assuming my landlord when he installed the carpet. They're in the subfloor somewhat deeper than modern carpet staples but are pretty flat after being hammered into the floor. Should I go through the effort of removing those or just hammer any others? I got the ones up that were used on my carpet. If they're flat, leave them. You generally only need to pull staples if they're sticking out way too far, or you're removing carpet from a hardwood floor before refinishing it. The Dave posted:Sanity check? Seconding just add a box extension. They're great for cheating with box fill rules. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 20:52
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Edit: Nevermind.
Phanatic fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Oct 4, 2017 |
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Oct 3, 2017 00:50
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HycoCam posted:Are you trying to run flexible duct for 20+ feet and inside a wall? You typically don't want to run a dryer vent more than 25'. And when you are calculating length--every 90 degree angle adds 5' to the length. i.e. your picture has 15' for length in the bends before adding the straight lengths. The length isn't actually 20ft, that's just how long the duct I got (and ruined) was. I've tried to map out any other way to run it but into the wall and straight up is the only way to go. I guess I'll have to bust out the wall and install a hard oval duct. Probably should clean out the lint in the wall anyway, I found a dollar in there!
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Oct 3, 2017 02:21
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So since Winter is Coming, I turned on old Bertha (steam boiler) to make sure it all works ok. She heats up ok, and all the radiators get hot, but one of them is leaking some steam past the valve stem:  I know that picture looks like I live in the Saw room, but it's really a nice house. I called my plumber buddy and he told me to just tighten the packing nut, first loosening it, then working the value up and down and tightening it back down, which i did. Unfortunately I also took off my thermostat to paint, so I can't turn the heater back on at the moment to test. But if I have to repack, what is the best way to do that? I don't really mind doing it myself, but I'd also be happy to call a plumber and pay him to just take care of it since at the moment I don't have a whole lot of time.
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Oct 3, 2017 02:24
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Friend posted:I think the previous owners of my house removed the lint trap from their dryer and then never gave a poo poo. I'd recommend one of these to get you by until you can do it right. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o-Lint-Trap-Kit-LTF/100021996
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Oct 3, 2017 03:05
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Repo Man posted:I'd recommend one of these to get you by until you can do it right. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o-Lint-Trap-Kit-LTF/100021996 If you vent inside realize you're adding to the moisture inside your house. Depending on the size of your space it may or may not be noticeable.
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Oct 3, 2017 04:15
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tangy yet delightful posted:If you vent inside realize you're adding to the moisture inside your house. Depending on the size of your space it may or may not be noticeable. Heat as well. When assembling the vent run you'll also want to avoid screws wherever possible. Any lint that gets past your lint filters will get stuck on screws and may lead to clogging. Basically get the right length of smooth metal vent pipe and the right fittings to minimize the number of joints that need to be secured.
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Oct 3, 2017 14:18
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I'd just get a 4" hole saw and drill straight through your exterior wall and vent it out that way. You'll want to get a proper exterior vent cover, remove the siding and tape around the flange to seal up the home's envelope, and then reapply the siding around that. It's not a difficult job really, you could knock it out in an afternoon. Plus, if you want to be extra be cautious, I picked up one of these external filters and put it inline near my dryer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVYZEQZ/ It actually does catch a surprising amount of fuzz that escapes the dryer, be and it's easy to clean and replace.
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Oct 3, 2017 15:32
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Jerk McJerkface posted:So since Winter is Coming, I turned on old Bertha (steam boiler) to make sure it all works ok. Packing a valve is pretty easy. Basically, you turn off the water, open the valve as far as you can, take off the handle and packing nut then dig out the old packing. Next up is to either find a packing washer of appropriate size, or shove in some packing. It's string sized. Put everything back together in the right order and check for leaks. Repo Man posted:I'd recommend one of these to get you by until you can do it right. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o-Lint-Trap-Kit-LTF/100021996 You can't use those with gas dryers. You know, CO killing your family and stuff.
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Oct 3, 2017 19:30
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OSU_Matthew posted:I'd just get a 4" hole saw and drill straight through your exterior wall and vent it out that way. You'll want to get a proper exterior vent cover, remove the siding and tape around the flange to seal up the home's envelope, and then reapply the siding around that. It's not a difficult job really, you could knock it out in an afternoon. I would love to but the laundry room is in the middle of the house, surrounded by the living room, dining room, garage, and entry hall.
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Oct 3, 2017 23:39
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