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Southern Heel posted:I'm moving into my own house with my own 300 sq. foot garage, and a place to put my tools other than a junk room. It is a concrete block construction with a poured concrete floor. The roof is felt, and will need to be replaced in the next 2-3 years. One of the most important things for me is organisation and appropriate storage.. I'd like to have a pegboard and workbench/cupboards underneath along one wall, but as mentioned it's unfinished walls. The correct answer is french cleat cabinets. I'd anchor some studs into the concrete and then line your walls with french cleats so you can make custom cabinets and storage that you can simply lift up, hang, and rearrange as needed. Then you can just make a workbench or two, and everything can be easily moved if you decide to epoxy the floor in a couple of years or get some new tools and need different storage.
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Sep 30, 2017 12:01
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Thumposaurus posted:
A saw from back when Black & Decker built durable tools (the 60's) I'm having flashbacks.
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Sep 30, 2017 16:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:A saw from back when Black & Decker built durable tools (the 60's) I'm having flashbacks. I got it at the ReStore here for about $20. It still had the little paper hang tag/instruction manual tied to the cord. I use it for metal cutting because it has a metal body/guard and a pretty beefy motor.
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Sep 30, 2017 17:43
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If any of you are in the Midwest and need a ladder, menards has put a 24' type II aluminum extension with leveling feet (in case you're off-roading) on sale for $210 (~10% off). I needed exactly that so I grabbed one, it seems pretty solid. Sale is through October 8. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...51011158&ipos=8
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Sep 30, 2017 20:04
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Southern Heel posted:I'm moving into my own house with my own 300 sq. foot garage, and a place to put my tools other than a junk room. It is a concrete block construction with a poured concrete floor. The roof is felt, and will need to be replaced in the next 2-3 years. One of the most important things for me is organisation and appropriate storage.. I'd like to have a pegboard and workbench/cupboards underneath along one wall, but as mentioned it's unfinished walls. I think you've got the order right--floor, walls, storage. You'll want something temporary. I'm in a rental. I have a 2' deep by 4' wide steel shelving unit that breaks down into two workbenches. I used the holes in the uprights to screw cheap boards to the back of the workbench that stick up by 4 feet, then screwed pegboard to that (don't forget to get a board across the top for stiffness). The result is a lot of usable pegboard that's totally non-permanent. I'm not saying do exactly that, but maybe it gives you some ideas.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:51
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Southern Heel posted:I'm moving into my own house with my own 300 sq. foot garage, and a place to put my tools other than a junk room. It is a concrete block construction with a poured concrete floor. The roof is felt, and will need to be replaced in the next 2-3 years. One of the most important things for me is organisation and appropriate storage.. I'd like to have a pegboard and workbench/cupboards underneath along one wall, but as mentioned it's unfinished walls. Absolutely do the floors first. I'm currently doing my basement floor and cursing myself for not doing that when it was empty. Don't forget lighting. Good light in a garage is amazing.
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Oct 2, 2017 14:34
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Aim for 50-100 lumen per square foot with an 8' ceiling. The midrange on those numbers is pretty great. Go for 4000K or cooler. The 2-pack of 4' led Feit lights from Costco is pretty great for that. You can chain four off a single outlet, they do 3700 lumen per fixture, and they draw all of 0.3A each. I put 18 in my 800 sq ft shop, my buddy liked the results and put a hair more in his slightly larger shop, everyone is happy as a clam, no regrets. Used to be able to get them in store, but those days have passed I guess, now they just carry some similar product that has a motion sensor you can't disable. Gotta order online now. Also seconding epoxying the floor first. e: I'll never pass up a chance to promote expo and lighting and to show off my own Exposing is VASTLY simpler when there's nothing but unfinished walls in play:  I don't seem to have a final pic, so here's the lighting install in progress. Final result was this times three, and it is like daylight in the middle of the night. If I had to do it over, I would do it exactly the same:  God drat I love lights. Friend's shop, he is also an extremely satisfied customer:  Here are the lights in question, they've been a crowd favorite for a while now. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 14:52
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Righto, but there's almost zero chance of me having the money or time to do the floor before we actually move into it unfortunately, which is kind of why I was trying to figure out a way that I could start to use the space without putting anything in that would cause problems. From what I have read the following would appear to make sense: 1) cabinets with a worktop between them + pegboard bolted to the back as intermediate solution 2) batoning and cleats screwed in and various cleat-designed cupboards/shelves/etc. 3) pour floor, put up internal wall sheeting, replace cleats ontop of sheeting In terms of lighting I believe there are four flourescent tubes in there, but I understand the point and will check it out. There's a separate consumer unit inside the garage so I'm fairly certain I'll be good to run lighting if it needs it. In terms of heating, I was thinking about a portable propane heater, is that a bad idea? It never gets much below -1C/30F in this neck of the woods. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 15:02
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Bad Munki posted:Here are the lights in question, they've been a crowd favorite for a while now. I'm jealous of this deal. Costco Canada has similar lights for a similar price. Except we only get 1 instead of 2. I really need to make a day trip to Buffalo one day and load up on harbor freight clamps and costco lights. Even with duty I should save a shitload.
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Oct 2, 2017 15:39
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keep it down up there! posted:I'm jealous of this deal. Costco Canada has similar lights for a similar price. Except we only get 1 instead of 2. 'Member dollar parity? :'< I used to drive south like twice a month to pick up stuff
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Oct 2, 2017 15:44
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keep it down up there! posted:I'm jealous of this deal. Costco Canada has similar lights for a similar price. Except we only get 1 instead of 2. You mean it's $60 per light?! That's awful. The funny thing is, the ones they sold in-store were just single packs for $30 a pop, and the two-pack they sell online for $60 per is just...two singles, they're not boxed differently or anything, they just send you two of the singles. v  v
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Oct 2, 2017 15:45
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Southern Heel posted:There's a separate consumer unit inside the garage so I'm fairly certain I'll be good to run lighting if it needs it. Just for reference, those lights I linked above? My entire 18-light install uses 5.4A. Meaning the whole thing can run off a single 15A breaker, i.e. a typical wall outlet circuit, with room to spare.
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Oct 2, 2017 15:47
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The ones on UK Costco are £42 for one, so that's about right too - I see they're LED which makes alot of sense. I've spent the last hour watching videos about rack, slat, cleat and board tool storage and getting all excited - but I think you're right that I really do need to get that floor/wall thing sorted first.
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Oct 2, 2017 16:27
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I second getting the floor done first. I wish I had. Now I have so many tools, tables, stands, etc I would need to rent some kinda storage unit to sit in my driveway for a few days if I ever wanted to reasonably empty my garage shop to do anything with the floor. Walls are easier to manage as you go. I started with just some OSB on the walls and upgraded as I needed. If you go that route I recommend painting them white. It helps a lot with brightening up your workspace. Cleats are definitely the most convenient option though.
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Oct 2, 2017 16:33
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Southern Heel posted:The ones on UK Costco are £42 for one, so that's about right too - I see they're LED which makes alot of sense. I've spent the last hour watching videos about rack, slat, cleat and board tool storage and getting all excited - but I think you're right that I really do need to get that floor/wall thing sorted first. They also sell the 2-packs of 4ft led tubes for about £16 if you can get or already have cheap fittings, I was tempted to buy a pack because I just installed 2 more fluorescent tubes in my garage yesterday.
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Oct 2, 2017 17:54
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Bad Munki posted:Just for reference, those lights I linked above? My entire 18-light install uses 5.4A. Meaning the whole thing can run off a single 15A breaker, i.e. a typical wall outlet circuit, with room to spare. I just used Feit 100W equivalent bulbs. They're 1600L each, and they're 12W. My entire 24x24 garage (16 bulbs spaced on a staggered 4 ft grid) runs on 2A. I went with 5000K, but it's what I prefer. It was super cheap. 16 porcelain bases and 16 bulbs ran me less than 100 dollars.
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Oct 2, 2017 18:02
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cakesmith handyman posted:They also sell the 2-packs of 4ft led tubes for about £16 if you can get or already have cheap fittings, I was tempted to buy a pack because I just installed 2 more fluorescent tubes in my garage yesterday. This is what I did. Got some empty fixtures from Home Depot and then bought the LED tubes from Costco. Just make sure you get the right fixtures for the tubes.
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Oct 2, 2017 18:19
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Yeah, but the 'problem' is that now I've bought the house, my car has just died and my happy 10k flexible fund is now down to 1.5k and I'm not sure that the wife will appreciate ~10% of that going towards painting the floor of the garage! I do get the salient point you're making, however.
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Oct 2, 2017 18:20
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Bad Munki posted:Here are the lights in question, they've been a crowd favorite for a while now. I have two of these in my teeny shed-shop, I love them
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Oct 2, 2017 19:09
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Amazon has a deal going on right now where $275 gets you two Makita 5.0 Ah batteries, a dual charger +carrying case, and then you get to add on two 'bare' tools for free. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SMV11S Batteries quote:Makita Promotion Here's the link that has the tools that qualify: https://www.amazon.com/b?node=11105713011
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Oct 2, 2017 19:21
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DrBouvenstein posted:Amazon has a deal going on right now where $275 gets you two Makita 5.0 Ah batteries, a dual charger +carrying case, and then you get to add on two 'bare' tools for free. Whoa great deal, I was looking for a cordless orbital sander and another 18v circ saw, thanks Dr. B.
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Oct 2, 2017 19:48
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DrBouvenstein posted:Amazon has a deal going on right now where $275 gets you two Makita 5.0 Ah batteries, a dual charger +carrying case, and then you get to add on two 'bare' tools for free.  I saw the 400$ tracksaw in the promotion link and got excited that maybe it was some promotional slip up, but no, there's a filter button for the promotion I had missed.Oh well, I can't justify two new 5 amp hour batteries anyways, I'm still happily chugging along with the 3 amp hour batteries from a few years back. 
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Oct 2, 2017 20:06
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OSU_Matthew posted:
Ha, saw that too. OSU_Matthew posted:Oh well, I can't justify two new 5 amp hour batteries anyways, I'm still happily chugging along with the 3 amp hour batteries from a few years back. I've got four 3 ampers that are 8+ years old and have run them to death. They're amazing.
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Oct 2, 2017 20:27
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Help me out here, then. My hand drill's an elderly DeWalt 12V and I'm looking to upgrade. Do I want an impact driver/drill? A hammer driver/drill? How's their battery-powered circular saw? My current corded circular saw is pretty cheap, and the cord definitely gets in the way when cutting sheet goods.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:17
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Help me out here, then. My hand drill's an elderly DeWalt 12V and I'm looking to upgrade. Do I want an impact driver/drill? A hammer driver/drill? I used exactly this promo circ saw to help me put up a new wall and floor most of my house (I did borrow a chop saw halfway through, so then the circ saw only got used for rip cuts.) I would absolutely throw down $250 for this deal if I had a burning need for anything in there.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Help me out here, then. My hand drill's an elderly DeWalt 12V and I'm looking to upgrade. Do I want an impact driver/drill? A hammer driver/drill? If you're talking two piece kits, I prefer impact driver/drill combo. I only really use the drill when I need to bore holes. I use the hell out of my impact driver. Just turning screws and small bolts, it's the best. Buy one of those small accessory packs with the socket adapters, magnetic nut drivers and different screw tips and never look back. Cordless hammer drills aren't super great (the small ones anyway. The large expensive ones are ok.)
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Oct 2, 2017 21:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Help me out here, then. My hand drill's an elderly DeWalt 12V and I'm looking to upgrade. Do I want an impact driver/drill? A hammer driver/drill? I had their full kit of cordless tools with 2 batteries, both of which started dying about 2 years in. Replacements were 80 bucks each. I sold them and got off the DeWalt bandwagon and never looked back. I'd recommend Makita or some other brand that people swear their batteries won't crap out quickly.
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Oct 2, 2017 22:04
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If you're not living in an apartment, if you're planning on doing some construction yourself (floors, garage, shed, chicken coop, tree house, terrace, patio, etc, etc), then spend the money and get good tools. The Makita stuff is good, widely used in the trades, and when you drive in screw number 4000 you'll be happy you're not holding a 7 year old black & decker drill with a soft bit in the jacob's chuck *shudder*. Spend the money, confess to wife later, be happy in the long run.
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Oct 2, 2017 22:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:I had their full kit of cordless tools with 2 batteries, both of which started dying about 2 years in. Replacements were 80 bucks each. I sold them and got off the DeWalt bandwagon and never looked back. I'd recommend Makita or some other brand that people swear their batteries won't crap out quickly. Yeah, it's not a question of sticking with DeWalt. I'm specifically saying, I want to take advantage of this Makita deal, which drill-shaped object should I get between the hammer drill/driver, the drill/driver, and the impact driver?
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Oct 2, 2017 23:01
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Of all my drivers, the impact driver is the most-used, absolutely no contest.
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Oct 2, 2017 23:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, it's not a question of sticking with DeWalt. I'm specifically saying, I want to take advantage of this Makita deal, which drill-shaped object should I get between the hammer drill/driver, the drill/driver, and the impact driver? Whatever you do, get the impact driver, it gets so much usage by everyone (pro/dyi) its ridiculous. You need either a hammer drill or a rotary hammer in your arsenal as well, imo, though they both are a distant second to the impact driver in practical use. If you're only drilling into brick then the hammer drill is fine. If you're drilling into concrete or stone (anchoring walls on concrete slab for instance) you need a rotary hammer. e: mercilessly beaten like a hammer drill trying to drill concrete 
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Oct 2, 2017 23:08
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Rnr posted:e: mercilessly beaten like a hammer drill trying to drill concrete Man though ain't that the truth. If you're doing concrete, an actual rotary hammer is loving amazing, like fun almost. Zero effort, like pushing a chopstick through warm butter. It'll change your life.
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Oct 2, 2017 23:11
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Fair enough, thanks! 
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Oct 2, 2017 23:28
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What am I doing wrong with my impact driver? Everyone is saying it's the most important tool, and every time cordless tools come up the same thing is said, but every time I use it I just end up stripping the material I'm screwing something into, or burying a screw an inch into a wall or something. Am I just not being careful enough? I want to like it, but I just end up hulksmashing everything and then switching to the drill to use the choke.
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Oct 3, 2017 15:58
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Help me out here, then. My hand drill's an elderly DeWalt 12V and I'm looking to upgrade. Do I want an impact driver/drill? A hammer driver/drill? Oh drat, you're going to be blown away with that Makita promo kit then--that's an awesome deal! That cordless saw is just as good as a full corded saw, that's an absolute must buy. The impact driver is an amazing piece of kit and it's absolutely wonderful to own... But I get more use out of the standard drill with the adjustable chuck because it can accommodate other bits like hole saws, kreg jig drill bits and such, and you can adjust the clutch so you don't strip stuff out. The impact driver can only take the standard hex bits, and I wouldn't be running it on stuff like a right angle drill adapter, which is another wonderful peice of kit. http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Right-Angle-Drill-Adapter-DWARA50/203867866 That would be my suggestion, circular saw and traditional drill. If you can afford to buy the promo twice, I'd get the sawzall and impact driver. E: I would honestly buy the subcompact 18v kit, that poo poo looks amazing Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Oct 3, 2017 |
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Oct 3, 2017 16:36
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Erwin posted:What am I doing wrong with my impact driver? Everyone is saying it's the most important tool, and every time cordless tools come up the same thing is said, but every time I use it I just end up stripping the material I'm screwing something into, or burying a screw an inch into a wall or something. Am I just not being careful enough? I want to like it, but I just end up hulksmashing everything and then switching to the drill to use the choke. I have exactly the same experience - I bought the two piece Bosch kit, and ended up returning it and just buying the drill/driver on its own. The drill is already torquey enough to strip screwheads, so I found the impact driver to have very limited utility.
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Oct 3, 2017 16:50
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1) Make sure you're using the right size bit for the screw head you're driving. If it's torx, that' easy, but you can sometimes accidentally grab an undersized bit and that'll strip poo poo fast. Philips even more so, as those are literally designed to cam out. 2) Make sure you have enough forward pressure to keep the bit in the screw head. This is SUPER critical for philips. 3) Make sure you're not driving at an angle to the screw. The line of the screw needs to be parallel to the line of the drill. If you're at an angle, you're more likely to strip the head. Again, extra critical with philips. 4) Watch your driver bits for wear. If they're rounded over and dying, that's just going to ruin screws more readily. And yes, again, this x2 on philips. 5) Stop using philips, they need to just disappear off the market. Get yourself a couple big boxes of torx screws and a handful of good bits. 6) Just, like, stop driving the screw when it's at the depth it needs to be? The thing about an impact driver is that it's not going to torque out like a traditional driver might, especially the torque-limiting ones...if you're driving into sensitive material and don't have a lot of screw buried in the material, you really need to be careful, even with a handheld manual driver! Don't use your impact driver to install #8x3/4" screws in pine, that's not going to work. Do use your impact driver to install 3" decking screws in 2x8s, and to tighten 3/8-16 nuts onto bolts.
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Oct 3, 2017 17:09
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OSU_Matthew posted:The impact driver is an amazing piece of kit and it's absolutely wonderful to own... But I get more use out of the standard drill with the adjustable chuck because it can accommodate other bits like hole saws, kreg jig drill bits and such, and you can adjust the clutch so you don't strip stuff out. The impact driver can only take the standard hex bits, and I wouldn't be running it on stuff like a right angle drill adapter, which is another wonderful peice of kit. Any particular reason you couldn't use an adjustable chuck adapter for the impact driver? It'd obviously make the tool less compact, but is there some other drawback I'm not seeing? And yeah, gently caress Phillips-head screws forever. I never buy them myself, but basically everything that comes with screws comes with Phillips-head screws that are exactly expensive enough to survive being driven once, if you do things correctly.
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Oct 3, 2017 17:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any particular reason you couldn't use an adjustable chuck adapter for the impact driver? It'd obviously make the tool less compact, but is there some other drawback I'm not seeing? I think you'd need a very specially-engineered chuck to survive the impact action, and special == $$$. Besides, a lot of the stuff that requires an adjustable chuck just isn't meant to survive impact action anyhow. That's why you should be buying impact-appropriate sockets and the like, so you don't explode poo poo at yourself.
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Oct 3, 2017 17:17
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Bad Munki posted:I think you'd need a very specially-engineered chuck to survive the impact action, and special == $$$. Amazon has tons of products like this one, so I'm kind of wondering what their use case is now. Presumably the chuck itself can survive the impact action, but what about the bit in the chuck?
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Oct 3, 2017 17:21
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