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Kilometers Davis posted:I'm looking for something weird. Recently my clip on Polytune was at a weird angle on my headstock and started rattling/buzzing along with my dry guitar sound. It was awesome. What fuzzes/effects could give me that buzzing, rattling, clangy, mosquito sound? Mosrite Fuzzrite is very buzzy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtyJ_fSuYpw Maestro Brassmaster is great for buzzy and spitty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDZCaIXU2O0
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Sep 10, 2017 01:32
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Kilometers Davis posted:I'm looking for something weird. Recently my clip on Polytune was at a weird angle on my headstock and started rattling/buzzing along with my dry guitar sound. It was awesome. What fuzzes/effects could give me that buzzing, rattling, clangy, mosquito sound? Octave clang?
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Sep 10, 2017 01:35
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: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQE-tabGUL4
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Sep 10, 2017 01:36
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Maybe an EQD Tentacles (basically a Dan Armstrong Green Ringer) coupled with your dirt of choice? I built a fuzz with a Tentacles circuit on a 2nd switch, and I use it both with and without the fuzz for a pretty cool clangy/broken sound.
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Sep 10, 2017 15:40
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All of those are real good suggestions. I definitely think an octave would be essential for the sound.
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Sep 24, 2017 01:41
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Holy crap you guys, my friend and I kinda built our own pedal last night! Even though we went for a super simple build (Devi Ever Hyperion) it was quite an experience! We haven't ever done a circuit before and we thought the schematic for the Hyperion looked pretty straight forward. It was, in the end, but it was an adventure in learning about electronics. We actually ended up just breadboarding the thing first to make sure we can actually create a circuit that works, and next weekend we're hopefully rehousing it. We actually built it twice. The first time I arranged the components and then added the wires. About halfway through the circuit there was a break but I couldn't for the life of me figure out where. We almost gave up but then we decided "gently caress it" and ripped everything off and rebuilt it, part by part, testing the signal at each part. And we got sound! It actually sounds pretty dang good, although they didn't have the transistors it was spec'd with, so we grabbed a couple replacements, including higher gain ones. Got some nice variation of sounds for it.  Oh also, protip: Make sure the wires you're grabbing are actual jumper cables, and not Arduino cables that only have a pin on one end. Yeah, we had to enlist another friend to just pull of the connectors and tin the ends so we could use them. I will post next weekend when we build this in housing, but for now I'm just happy it works! No sounds clips though, it was like 11pm when we got in working. They will come.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:38
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syntaxfunction posted:Holy crap you guys, my friend and I kinda built our own pedal last night! Even though we went for a super simple build (Devi Ever Hyperion) it was quite an experience! We haven't ever done a circuit before and we thought the schematic for the Hyperion looked pretty straight forward. It was, in the end, but it was an adventure in learning about electronics. Congrats dude!!!!!!! A friend of mine makes the best pedals around and that was the first pedal he ever made in his life. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. I've made about every mistake there is to make building a pedal.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:52
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Congrats dude!!!!!!! A friend of mine makes the best pedals around and that was the first pedal he ever made in his life. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. I've made about every mistake there is to make building a pedal. Haha awesome, cause I do need some advice. Basically we couldn't get a hold of the transistors spec'd in the layout (MPSA18) so opted for another that seemed about the same but had more gain (cause more gain is always better right?). We also forgot to get a 1k resistor and had to sub it for a 10k. This is the schematic I used. Anyway, it works and sounds pretty good, but I noticed a thing. I recorded some audio from the pedal (from my phone so it's not great) here: https://soundcloud.com/syntaxfunction/hyperion-test-audio It has this thing where the high end is kind of "washy" or fizzy. Is that just a Muff thing? My friend's Swollen Pickle has it too but my Bass Muff doesn't. Also the Control/texture whatever knob (P1 on the schematic) does change things but not by much. Would that be likely caused from replacing R1 from 1k to 10k? Overall I'm really happy with it, though.
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Sep 25, 2017 13:16
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syntaxfunction posted:Haha awesome, cause I do need some advice. Basically we couldn't get a hold of the transistors spec'd in the layout (MPSA18) so opted for another that seemed about the same but had more gain (cause more gain is always better right?). We also forgot to get a 1k resistor and had to sub it for a 10k. This is the schematic I used. Anyway, it works and sounds pretty good, but I noticed a thing. R1 is the pulldown resistor and can be 10k without affecting the tone. More than likely it's due to the transistors you selected. I would recommend buying transistor sockets and "auditioning" them until you find a sound you like the best. http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Pin-SIP-Socket-1-PC-Breakable-Transistor-Socket-High-Quality-USA-SELLER-/291811504155 More gain does not always equal better. More gain means more compression and you can lose overtones that sound gnarly. When I build Fuzz Faces I always look for a specific gain combination hfe of about 80 for q1 and 110 for q2. More gain for that circuit doesn't sound great to me. On the other hand, more gain can also sound gnarly, too. You really have to audition transistors with your ears.  Also, the stated gain in a datasheet is usually misleading as it's specificed as the minimum and or maximum gain. What that means is there can be a wild variation of gains of the same transistor from the same manufacturer from the same manufacturing run. I recommend a gain tester (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12864-Mega328-ESR-Transistor-Resistor-Diode-Capacitor-Mosfet-Tester-w-Test-HookJ-/222607253433 on the cheaper side or http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_dca55.html on the more expensive side) because it's also crucial to put transistors in order (high gain first then low gain or vice versa, depending on the circuit). Dang It Bhabhi! fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Sep 25, 2017 |
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Sep 25, 2017 16:36
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Anybody have a suggestion for a first project for a DIY pedal novice? My soldering skills are pretty rudimentary. I've heard the Super Hard On both sounds good and is brain-dead simple, would that be a good choice?
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Sep 27, 2017 00:10
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Anime Reference posted:Anybody have a suggestion for a first project for a DIY pedal novice? My soldering skills are pretty rudimentary. I've heard the Super Hard On both sounds good and is brain-dead simple, would that be a good choice? Yes the SHO is a perfect beginner circuit: easy to build and is my favorite-sounding booster. I build the gently caress out of them: 
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Sep 27, 2017 00:50
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Yes the SHO is a perfect beginner circuit: easy to build and is my favorite-sounding booster. I build the gently caress out of them: Why do you not have these on a push-pull??
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Sep 27, 2017 00:59
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Shugojin posted:Why do you not have these on a push-pull?? They are going in combo pedals (something + booster).
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Sep 27, 2017 01:00
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:They are going in combo pedals (something + booster). Ah, cool. You could sell them for a tidy profit as a guitar-onboard with a 9v connector and switched pot though, lord knows EMG sells an onboard boost for eighty dang dollars. (I had a guitar that came with one standard and the body I bought for $40 on reverb had one, it's... okay? If you use it at maybe a third of its rated dB boost)
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Sep 27, 2017 01:04
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Great pedal advice. In unrelated news, I took a picture of my buddy's pedalboard.  It's a bass board, weirdly enough! It has one actual bass pedal. Any suggestions for good drive pedals or anything else? He's always hunting new pedals for kicks 'cause it ain't doing much for his talent (it's good he's not on this forum). He was looking at a Palisades by EQD and a B7K Ultra from Darkglass, but they're both pricey as hell. Any pro-sumer tips?
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Sep 27, 2017 10:42
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The newer boss bass drive is really good.
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Sep 27, 2017 10:45
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massive spider posted:The newer boss bass drive is really good. Is there a newer one than the ODB-3? I bought that one twice and had it lost or stolen both times, really good pedal for the price though, might get another one day.
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Sep 27, 2017 17:17
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https://kingsroadmerch.com/converge/view/?id=12548&cid=65 jeeeez that's exactly how you make me want to drop $200 without even caring about the details
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Sep 27, 2017 20:39
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I'm in the last stint of prepping the Hyperion for casage. Can I get Bhabhi or anyone else to check my layout? I'm pretty sure it's good. It's slightly tweaked (Apparently the circuit does not need two 100n coupling capacitors at C3 and C4) but aside from that it seems good. I'm hoping to build this tomorrow if the layout checks out! Again, the schematic is this one from here. I know the schematic works, I have the prototype on my desk right now. I just don't want to solder everything together and then have it not work and have no idea why. Cheers! syntaxfunction fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 12:14
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Double post cause I can. My two friend's and I built the pedal yesterday/last night. Probably should've started earlier than 5pm, but that's what happens when 2/3 people stay up drinking the day before and get no sleep. Not that I'm bitter or anything. Anyway, we started at 5pm, and threw in the towel at about 2-3am. It's been interesting. Basically, we built everything and since this is our first time it was, uh, interesting. First, solid core wires are good for breadboards and jumpers. Not so great for pedal cases. Second, holy poo poo do scissors suck for cutting vero board. Like, almost splintered the board bad. Yeah. Third, over spec'd components are a great deal on paper (why use 1/4W resistors when 1W is only like $0.02 more?) but are way bigger and harder to put in. Fourth, vero board is tiny and finicky, definitely going larger next time. Anyway, we built the board, wired in the components and gave it a crack. We were surprised. First, true bypass switching actually worked. That was the first win. Second, we got a signal when engaged. Unfortunately it was quiet, but clean, with no static, hum or hiss. That was a win. The case was pretty well made, so win there too. However, there were hiccups. The LED we used for check was a 12V LED (this one actually) which we figured was fine cause it's a 9V circuit so it'll just be dimmer. However we got no light, even when the effect was on. Nada. Looking into it, that LED apparently has a resistor built in (who knows what loving value though) and we didn't realise that, and attached a 5k resistor to it as well. So I'm thinking that's partially where our problems are lying. The best part was it was working, we nudged it wrong and an entire lug of the input pot snapped off. So instantly stopped grounding. That's where we threw in the towel. But yeah, I'm thinking low signal + no LED at all might indicate a power issue? If anyone wants to chime in that'd be great. I'm pretty confident in my layout, and we quadruple-checked the positions before soldering anything, then checked over again. We get the signal through but quieter so I think the circuit itself is good.
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Oct 1, 2017 09:27
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LEDs dont have built-in resistors and require a resistor to limit the current, not the voltage. You need to put a 3.3kOhm to 4.7kOhm resistor (more resistance = less bright) on either leg of the LED and then connect it up to positive and negative. You probably blew out the LED but that's ok because they are cheap. https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/219
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Oct 1, 2017 10:14
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:LEDs dont have built-in resistors and require a resistor to limit the current, not the voltage. You need to put a 3.3kOhm to 4.7kOhm resistor (more resistance = less bright) on either leg of the LED and then connect it up to positive and negative. You probably blew out the LED but that's ok because they are cheap. Thanks. I know about the current resistor. But the one I linked specifically mentions including a dropping resistor, and on top of that we even soldered a 5kOhm resistor to it. So I don't think that's the problem. If anything the resistance would be way higher than what is recommended, not under. Again for reference, this: https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-mini-chrome-bezel-red/p/SL2644 Is what I used. I'll call the place I bought it from to verify, but my thinking is that if it includes the dropping resistor on top of the resistor we added (as you suggested) then the resistance is going to be way to high for both the LED as well as the entire circuit as the LED section runs parallel to the rest of the circuit so a massive jump there will reduce the current for the entire circuit, which matches the clean but low volume/gain situation. If I've misunderstood anything please let me know. Edit: Also there's this with a comment about that specific LED that said they have built in resistors. I will call the store tomorrow to verify though. syntaxfunction fucked around with this message at 10:39 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 10:32
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LEDs also have a forward voltage which means they won't shine below a certain amount of voltage. Too low or too high you're hosed. Reading the jaycar listing it just sounds like they included a resistor. In either case, just get a new led and put a 4K resistor on it. Dang It Bhabhi! fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 16:35
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If you're really, really good then solid core can look amazing, whoever wired up my vintage amp that I like for cleans/small break-up back in the 60s has that poo poo making nearly 90 degree turns and traveling so tidily it makes me ashamed of my own attempts.
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Oct 1, 2017 18:47
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Just gotta be careful: Solid core will snap at the solder joints which is why I use it and add some heat shrink at the joints because stranded drives me nuts.
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Oct 1, 2017 19:05
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I've really drifted away from the electric in recent years in favor of my traditional folk which I actually get to play with people and I identify with more these days. I've been collecting guitars for almost 10 years but never had anything decent to play them through. Started out with this RMS thing my well-meaning dad got me when I started. Upgraded to one of those lovely Marshall combo amps, and then traded that in on my Fender Passport, and I used to run my Zoom Dave Mustaine digital pedal through that (lived for Megadeth back in the day). I was eyeing an AC15 for the longest, then when the limited edition white bronco showed up at my local shop I had to have it. Sounds truly beautiful playing my Gretsch through it but I fired it up the other night to try that same pedal for some distortion and I came away disappointed. Might sound strange but it doesn't sound clean enough. I'm thinking like Iced Earth's cover of Its a Long Way to the Top. Its just a lovely digital pedal so I need some guidance here, I guess what I need to start getting some real pedals? Clearly I'm not talking about putting together a pedal board to rock on stage. I just want some good sounds while I'm loving around at home. I want it to sound crisp.
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Oct 2, 2017 04:19
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codo27 posted:I've really drifted away from the electric in recent years in favor of my traditional folk which I actually get to play with people and I identify with more these days. I've been collecting guitars for almost 10 years but never had anything decent to play them through. Started out with this RMS thing my well-meaning dad got me when I started. Upgraded to one of those lovely Marshall combo amps, and then traded that in on my Fender Passport, and I used to run my Zoom Dave Mustaine digital pedal through that (lived for Megadeth back in the day). I was eyeing an AC15 for the longest, then when the limited edition white bronco showed up at my local shop I had to have it. Sounds truly beautiful playing my Gretsch through it but I fired it up the other night to try that same pedal for some distortion and I came away disappointed. Might sound strange but it doesn't sound clean enough. I'm thinking like Iced Earth's cover of Its a Long Way to the Top. Its just a lovely digital pedal so I need some guidance here, I guess what I need to start getting some real pedals? Clearly I'm not talking about putting together a pedal board to rock on stage. I just want some good sounds while I'm loving around at home. I want it to sound crisp. Get a Rat.
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Oct 2, 2017 04:39
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Get a Rat. A good option. Alternatively, I have heard good things about the following for AC amps: Paul Cochrane Timmy, Fulltone OCD, Crawther (?) Hotcake, MI Audio Crunch Box. One of those should do the trick depending how much colour and gain you want. ALSO! We loving did it. We built the pedal, it loving works a treat. Sounds brilliant. When we rebuilt all the offboard stuff we realised the simplest loving thing: We were missing the main ground cable between jacks. So nothing was getting grounded. Duh. Rewired with fresh parts and to start we wired it straight to the jacks, no pots or switches, everything at max. And it worked. So my layout from the schematic is ace, I'm happy with that. It's good it worked the first time this time because boy howdy, that circuit board did not have any more "gently caress around" life in it. I was honestly prepared for us to have to do another one. But we didn't need to. We learned two more things: Boxes that seem massive aren't so much when you get all the components and wires in, and two, wires should really be snipped to length, not made long just in case. Oh and for reference, the LED we used did in fact have a resistor built in, predicting a 12V input. So yeah.
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Oct 2, 2017 10:03
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syntaxfunction posted:
Congrats on getting the pedal working! If you wanna build another one, consider checking out tagboardeffects - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/search?q=hyperion It's got a great collection of nicely optimized tag/veroboard circuits, along with some good info on offboard wiring, switch wiring, etc.
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Oct 2, 2017 20:49
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Is there any velcro that actually works? I have a large board and poo poo starts sliding off almost immediately when I transport it. I don't really swap pedals often so it can't be weakening that quickly. Is there something better out there that I'm missing?
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Oct 2, 2017 20:51
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Selling clones made on perfboard from tagboard layouts is how people live on reverb.com lol. edit: http://www.noisemakerindustries.com/store/p3/Loveless_Fuzz_and_Reverb_Dual_Pedal.html This piece of poo poo is a Devi Ever Hyperion on perfboard into a bog standard PT2399 delay chip. $150! lol
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Oct 2, 2017 20:51
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hanales posted:Is there any velcro that actually works? Take apart a bike chain and use the links to screw your pedals down. Screw for the pedal back goes through one hole, screw to the board in the other.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:06
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hanales posted:Is there any velcro that actually works? Industrial Strength Velcro Waaaaaay stronger than standard stuff, both in the backing adhesive and the actual hook-and-loop strength. I use this stuff and actually prying a pedal off my board is enough of a struggle that I wonder sometimes if it's too strong.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:51
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Thumposaurus posted:Take apart a bike chain and use the links to screw your pedals down. Screw for the pedal back goes through one hole, screw to the board in the other. ... I'm having trouble picturing this. Is there a youtube video? Schpyder posted:Industrial Strength Velcro That looks cool. Thanks!
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Oct 3, 2017 01:43
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Get a Rat.
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Oct 3, 2017 02:39
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hanales posted:... I'm having trouble picturing this. Is there a youtube video?  Not my pic just one I found on google but should get the general idea across.
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Oct 3, 2017 06:00
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JohnnySmitch posted:Congrats on getting the pedal working! Thanks! I actually knew about tagboardeffects but deliberately chose to make my own layout for a couple reasons. First, I wanted control over the layout, in case I wanted to change anything. Second, I actually much prefer working with schematics than layouts, so by transferring from a verified schematic to a layout myself I can mentally trace each section in my head, which makes trouble shooting far easier. I did however use their true bypass wiring scheme. Their Hyperion layout is a bit smaller than mine, but not by a tonne and the knowledge that the layout is from me just makes me feel better. Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Selling clones made on perfboard from tagboard layouts is how people live on reverb.com lol. I was going to buy one of those guy's pedals at one stage. The Nebula dual delay/reverb. Mainly cause they said they'd mod it for TB/buffered bypass switching for only $20 so I could have the trails I crave. $150 might be crazy to you but honestly over here the fact that they were willing to sell one of those to me for like AU$200 is actually cheap. I'd be lying if I said we hadn't thought about selling pedals, but we have a few things we want to do before we contemplate that. First, getting our builds down looking actually professional and not a home job. Second, having a circuit that's not a clone. The Hyperion sounds awesome, but at the end of the day I would personally just get the Devi pedal for it. It's the original, reasonably priced and well built. Our parts cost is about AU$60 a pedal right now, so even if we were to sell for AU$100 + shipping (which is actually a lowball around here) I don't think we'd actually be offering something that no-one else has. Going back to the whole schematics/layouts thing, I intend to mod the schematic of the Hyperion for a couple things. First, the oscillation knob from the Hyperion 2 (which essentially use a pot to control grounding). Second, I want a real tone control. Not sure whether to go Muff style but with different components for less mid cut, or a Baxandall style. I am aware this is a lot of work. The whole point of building pedals was never to just make some clones, sell them and move on. It's a learning process more than anything. But yeah, I think the whole one man shop style boutique pedals is cool, but I think it's silly when you have a dozen people offering what is essentially identical pedals, for around the same price, especially when you throw the original in the mix.
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Oct 3, 2017 06:16
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I'm saying I would've made you a Hyperion + PT2399 on perfboard for you for less than that shipped to Australia and errything.  Although now that's a moot point because you've joined the international cabal of home pedal slangers and I welcome you.
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Oct 3, 2017 06:35
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Thumposaurus posted:
That totally does thanks so much!
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Oct 3, 2017 06:52
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:I'm saying I would've made you a Hyperion + PT2399 on perfboard for you for less than that shipped to Australia and errything. It's a fine cabal to be part of. I totally get syntaxfunction's desire to make their own pedals, that's what I set out to do, too. I've had friends ask me to build them clones and I've obliged but it's not as much fun as crafting something myself and therefore bums me out.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:56
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