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Engineer Lenk posted:Sitting next to her could be working against you. Do you have a room where you could corral the kittens while the dog eats? We've locked the kittens up entirely but it doesn't seem to help, however we haven't done this more than a couple of times. I'm trying to think of a place where we can feed the dog and she will feel secure. Our house is fairly open concept so she keeps checking over her shoulder. She will eat her whole bowl of food when we are sitting next to her but she will do a quick pass and howl at the cats to scare them out of the room. We are trying out best to address this as we are expecting our first child in 6 months.
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Apr 26, 2017 17:12
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Just put the kittens away for an hour and feed her during that hour.
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Apr 26, 2017 17:49
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One on one trick training for a portion of her dinner might also help her focus, and since you or your wife are doling out one kibble at the time, there's less of a resource to guard.
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Apr 26, 2017 22:49
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I have a friend who apparently signed up for some Cesar Milan equivalent garbage for dog training. She says she was told to put her dog in a submission hold every day for a week, which is awful. Does someone have a book I can recommend her that won't involve her trying to abuse her dog? I asked if she was showing aggression towards her dog and she said " dogs do it all the time." 
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Apr 30, 2017 19:57
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notwithoutmyanus posted:I have a friend who apparently signed up for some Cesar Milan equivalent garbage for dog training. She says she was told to put her dog in a submission hold every day for a week, which is awful. Does someone have a book I can recommend her that won't involve her trying to abuse her dog? I asked if she was showing aggression towards her dog and she said " dogs do it all the time." 
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Apr 30, 2017 20:00
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notwithoutmyanus posted:I have a friend who apparently signed up for some Cesar Milan equivalent garbage for dog training. She says she was told to put her dog in a submission hold every day for a week, which is awful. Does someone have a book I can recommend her that won't involve her trying to abuse her dog? I asked if she was showing aggression towards her dog and she said " dogs do it all the time." In b4 dog bites someone and is rehomed/euthed. Cuz i don't think your friend is going to buy and read a book start with some internet, here's a short documentary, it's a little cheesy and has some interviews with people giving bad/wrong info but it drives the point home i think: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIjMBfhyNDE https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/compulsive-training/ https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2011/12/12/myth-tough-dogs-need-tough-training/ This is from 2009 that's how long it's been since that garbage trainer read a book https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/new_study_finds_popular_alpha_dog_training_techniques_can_cause_more_harm_t/ https://drsophiayin.com/philosophy/dominance/ pizzadog fucked around with this message at 19:17 on May 3, 2017 |
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May 3, 2017 18:58
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I recently picked up a K9 Sport Sack so I could take my dachshund with me on my bike. She enjoys the rides but whenever she sees another dog she starts barking like crazy and trying to get out of the sack (she can't actually get out). Any tips on how to work on this behavior? I can't exactly give her treats while biking around. edit: This is what she is in: https://www.k9sportsack.com/ nesbit37 fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Jun 29, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2017 14:52
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Man. My trainer had me just walk back and forth and every time the dog starts walking in front, to turn around. You feel like a jackass turning around every like 10 feet but that resolves pretty quickly.
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Jun 29, 2017 18:50
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I wish that worked for me. It was more like turning around every feet for 30 minutes. Doing stop and go made 10 feet take 10 minutes. I have the worst dogs.
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Jun 29, 2017 19:18
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Shugojin posted:Man. Turn around as in reverse direction or just wait and face away from the dog?
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Jun 29, 2017 21:50
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Rurutia posted:I wish that worked for me. It was more like turning around every feet for 30 minutes. Doing stop and go made 10 feet take 10 minutes. I gave it a year then gave up on trying to teach my husky/chow to loose leash walk. She mostly doesn't pull horribly. Just likes to be at the end of the leash. Oddly enough if I hook two 6 foot leashes together so there's 12 feet of leash, she's much more likely to meander and walk at a normal pace.
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Jun 29, 2017 23:38
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Warbird posted:Turn around as in reverse direction or just wait and face away from the dog? Reverse direction, by crossing in front of the dog. The general idea is that it gets the dog in the habit of paying attention to what you are doing which greatly lowers the chance of the dog freaking out over something else. Before all of it my dog really freaked out about other dogs. Now she understands that we are supposed to just sort of walk past. She still looks at them but doesn't strain the leash or jump. The other day a lab came charging out almost up to us barking furiously and she didn't do anything more than put her ears to maximum alert position! Shugojin fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 00:59
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Hdip posted:I gave it a year then gave up on trying to teach my husky/chow to loose leash walk. She mostly doesn't pull horribly. Just likes to be at the end of the leash. Oddly enough if I hook two 6 foot leashes together so there's 12 feet of leash, she's much more likely to meander and walk at a normal pace. I feel like asking a husky not to pull at all is asking a little much.
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Jul 1, 2017 01:58
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We have a cat (Siamese, 20) and a dog (Pomeranian, 2). The cat has a litterbox while the dog goes outside to poo poo and piss, I take her out at least 4 times a day and she shits in the mornings and evenings. Today we caught the dog coming from the area of the litterbox where she's not really allowed to go, so I decided to clean the litterbox because I suspected my dog wanted to feast on cat poo poo (she likes to eat her own turds as well if she can find them, I try to stop her from doing that but sometimes she just spins around really fast after making GBS threads or find an old dump outside from the previous day). I took it outside and opened it and lo and behold, there was an unmistakable dog turd in there. My dog decided to poo poo in my cat's littlerbox through observational learning. I'm not sure what I should do about this. On the one hand, I don't really want her to poo poo there, the cat might not like it and stop using his box and the litterbox has a cover so it's a great place to secretly sneak bites of catshit and her own poo poo. On the other hand, it's pretty clever and funny and certainly better than making GBS threads anywhere else in the house. If i tell her off for it she might take that to mean that she should poo poo somewhere else in the house or something dumb like that. What do I do?
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Jul 5, 2017 09:47
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Get a second litter box for the pooch? She might not be down for eating her poo poo if it's covered in litter/sand.
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Jul 6, 2017 13:51
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Hdip posted:I gave it a year then gave up on trying to teach my husky/chow to loose leash walk. She mostly doesn't pull horribly. Just likes to be at the end of the leash. Oddly enough if I hook two 6 foot leashes together so there's 12 feet of leash, she's much more likely to meander and walk at a normal pace. Experimenting is good. One of the german pointers that regularly boards at my work was like this. Short leashes make him pull and go crazy. A long line with gentle tugging and vocal commands = relaxed dog. Took me a while of working with him to figure it out but now he's 100x easier to walk and handle. The two insane weimers I had recently benefited from being on longish, tight lines and basically driven like horses, one in each hand, complete with loud "WHOA, WHOA!" or soothing noises and clucks to ease them around obstacles. I literally drove those dogs like they were horses and in one walk they went from insane, bouncy, tangle-up-my-sister madness to efficient walking machines. I have no idea if the sweet old lady who owns them uses the same technique but drat it was a total 180 on those brainless dogs.
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Jul 13, 2017 22:40
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This thread seems a little dead, but I hope it's okay to resurrect it.  I have a 2-year-old chihuahua that I adopted a couple months ago. He's generally been great and pretty chill, but he occasionally displays some aggression that I'd like to start working on. Going off the reply about different kinds of aggression—side note: this link is broken in OP—I believe his behavior is fear, possession, or protective aggression. I can think of three situations where this generally happens. - I frequently bring him over to a friend's house to play with her two dogs. Sometimes, when someone goes to pet one of her dogs (another chihuahua) he'll suddenly try to bite the hand petting the other dog. Maybe protective aggression? My dog seems introverted, and stuff like this seems to mostly happen if more people are over and the room is getting a little loud. - Going off the last note, if a room isn't too calm, he may sometimes nip at a hand if someone tries to pet him. - I'm most concerned about this one. He hasn't warmed up too much to my roommate. He'll sometimes growl, bark, or even snap/bite at his hand. But, if he's with other dogs and people he trusts besides me, he'll sometimes be okay with my roommate; for example, my friend and her dogs stayed at my apartment to ride out hurricane Irma and my roommate was able to pet him for quite a while. This might be protective, because sometimes this is when he's sitting on my lap or near me, however, I'm pretty sure he's acted similarly if I'm not next to him. I've bought a few of the recommended books (Power of Positive Reinforcement, Don't Shoot the Dog, and Clicker Training for Dogs) and I'm beginning to read through them, and I may also buy a couple on fear/aggression specifically—recommendations?—so I'm going to be reading through those for help. However, if anyone has any advice or tips, I'd really appreciate them, especially any tips for how I can help him warm up to my roommate.
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Sep 12, 2017 20:45
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Praise Jesus for the resurrection. I should probably be posting in here instead of the dog appreciation station. When do people schedule their dog's training in their puppy's daily schedule? Do you do it before a walk? While at the park on a walk? After taking a walk? Before/after meals? I'm just wondering if there's a consensus on a good time of day to be training your puppy.
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Sep 13, 2017 17:03
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I've always had my best success with dog training after walking but before meals. If your dog has excess energy it's going to want to do anything except sit still and listen to you, and if they're hungry you can use lower value treats or even just their regular kibbles and they'll be trying harder in order to get them. If my dog is high-energy he tends to reach with both front hands to pull a treat out of my fist instead of doing what I want but if he's gone for a walk he keeps four feet on the floor much more often.pseudorandom posted:I have a 2-year-old chihuahua that I adopted a couple months ago. He's generally been great and pretty chill, but he occasionally displays some aggression that I'd like to start working on. Going off the reply about different kinds of aggression—side note: this link is broken in OP—I believe his behavior is fear, possession, or protective aggression. I can think of three situations where this generally happens. We have some of these problems with our dog and our trainer gave us a couple of good tricks! For possessiveness of toys and food the game was to briefly touch the item then immediately reward the dog. As they get better with that you can gradually increase the difficulty by picking up the item for a second, giving it back before they can get upset, and reward them. Gradually increase difficulty as the dog gets more ok with it but slide back to easier stuff if they mess up. My dog has a pretty tough time meeting strangers and didn't like being in the trainer's office with them for one-on-one sessions so she played a game with him (without us even knowing she was doing it). She had some high value treats (cheese bits) and would toss one in the middle of the room if he looked at her. Then if he would start to approach her a little bit she would toss him another treat in the middle. Eventually he got to the point where he was going straight up to her before she would give him a treat. Maybe that might help your dog start to make friends with your roommate! Nemico fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 05:40
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Ok I'm kind of at my wit's end wrt my big dumb adorable puss of a dog. I had a trainer come to my house about five times and helped me get some of his behaviour when it's just us under control and since then life has been much simpler, however, he's still terrified of people that he hasn't known since he was a puppy. We did a pretty good job of socializing him, but I'm afraid it wasn't enough, and on top of this his mother was also kind of crazy (i should have known when I came to get him when he was a puppy and his mother, a german shepherd lab mix, was being overprotective and was on the aggressive side). First time I've had a dog on my own, first time having a dog larger than 20lbs. I thought that he was doing better because the missus had a friend over and he liked her to the point he was licking her and i was able to take his muzzle and leash off and she knew better than to put her face in his or to do anything that may scare him. So I took him on a walk and he did great, didnt bark at anyone nor chase them, and as we were walking up to my house my neighbour stopped us to say hello omg your dog is so cute can i pet him? I was like ya sure, just hold your hand out first so he can smell you. Then Rascal gave him a small bite and while my neighbour was cool about it, I realized that I need to do something more so that we can actually have people over without needing to worry about him and so when we have kids he won't do something crazy or anything else that will cause harm to someone else and a lawsuit to us I was considering sending him to a doggy boot camp through the trainer we went through because they would spend a month working with him all day every day and be able to do things that I simply don't have time to do (such as have him be around loads of other dogs, other people, etc). I know that this is all because of my ignorance and that I've done a poo poo job in making sure that he's properly socialized, but the trainer seemed to think that his fear aggression was hereditary. I want to make sure that I dont have to put him down because he's my best bud and is basically the dog that i've always dreamed of having since I was a kid. Does anyone have any advice for how to handle this, or am I right in seeking professional long term solutions such as doggy boot camp? Here's a pic of him, according to the lady I got him from her dog got pregnant from the husky on the other side of the fence and had to do something with the puppies so she put them on craigslist. He was so handsome i just couldn't say no   
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Sep 14, 2017 11:43
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:I was considering sending him to a doggy boot camp through the trainer we went through because they would spend a month working with him all day every day and be able to do things that I simply don't have time to do (such as have him be around loads of other dogs, other people, etc). I know that this is all because of my ignorance and that I've done a poo poo job in making sure that he's properly socialized, but the trainer seemed to think that his fear aggression was hereditary. I want to make sure that I dont have to put him down because he's my best bud and is basically the dog that i've always dreamed of having since I was a kid. Does anyone have any advice for how to handle this, or am I right in seeking professional long term solutions such as doggy boot camp? Boot camp doesn't sound like it'll do much for your situation - dogs don't generalize that well. You need to step up your management first, and make better decisions on who you let him interact with, making sure his chances to make bad decisions are minimized. Don't let strangers pet a nervous dog, and with a known bite history I'd probably walk him with a muzzle on so people won't ask. Put your dog in a safe place away from everyone when you have guests over, unless you are actively training the situation. It's not an on/off switch, you're never going to be able to take good behavior for granted. I would be very careful about never allowing a dog like that unsupervised interaction with a child, even one he's lived with for years.
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Sep 14, 2017 14:56
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My dog is almost identical to yours. He's afraid of strangers but very loveable with his friends and he has a bite history. Some dogs just don't get to go outside without a muzzle, and that's OK. Muzzles are sometimes just as important to protect your dog from strangers rather than the other way around. Run this by your trainer first, but if you'd like him to be able to say hello to people you can teach him a trick that I was shown. You hold your hand out flat, palm facing out and angled sideways like a 90 degree high five and the goal is for him to do a nose boop and return to you. That way he can do a gentle high five from inside his muzzle and get away. This can be a gateway to friendship because it's a low pressure game with a non-intimidating hand signal.
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Sep 14, 2017 18:10
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What's the proper procedure for a Human to greet an un-familiar dog? Do you want to just stand still and upright while allowing the dog to approach you? Bend from the waist and lower and up-turned hand? Squat down closer to the dog's level? This is assuming of course you can tell the dog is not visibly aggressive in anyway.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:10
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kneeling or squatting generally has the best results imo. Bending the worst.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:14
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Hey guys I have a nearly 2 year old Boxer-Rottweiler mix. I have a serious problem regarding her behavior and was looking for advice regarding that. She's always been territorial, barking at strangers, even when I take her out for walks, or playing rough with other dogs. I was trying to head that off by excersising her and socializing her with other dogs and people at the dog park. For a while it seemed to be working, and she was barking at people a lot less and not being so rough with other dogs. Just today, we took her out to the dog park in order to tire her out for the day. After 5-10 minutes of playing fetch, she seemed tired out so we weren't expecting any trouble. When some guy walked by, 10 feet away and in the opposite direction, and he wasn't making any sudden moves or doing anything wrong as far as we could see. He was a regular at the dig park and she didn't have any problems with him before then. For some reason, she jumped up and tried to take a nip out of his leg. Thankfully she didn't break the skin, and we left right away to avoid any more incidents. We have no intention of taking her to public places anymore if there's a chance she could attack someone at the drop of the hat. I'm very much aware of how lucky we were that it didn't get worse, especially since he could have been hurt or sued us. We're looking for a personal trainer for her right now, but I was wondering if there was anything else we could do to help deal with the problem? Any advice would be appreciated.
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Sep 24, 2017 20:20
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We just adopted a 6 year old shelter staffy this week and don't know her history, but she's basically been like a big puppy and seemingly hasn't been trained at all. She's responding well enough to basic sit/stay and getting better with jumping and leash tugging and housebreaking as it's only been a few days, but I want to start clicker training her - the problem is she is absolutely traumatized by the sound of the clicker? Not in a panicked startled way, but if you click she will shy away and then move (not run) as far away from you as possible, sit in a corner and turn away from any attempt to engage, completely ignores offered treats and stays this way for like half an hour until she gets over it. Same reaction from using a softer click off a ballpoint pen, even behind my back and muffled in my palm. And yet there's no similar reactions from any other kind of clicking or noises in general. Keyboard/mouse/any other kind of clicks don't bother her at all sitting in our office. I haven't even been able to try and desensitize by charging it because as soon as the click happens she'll even break off from approaching the treat. Is it worth it to try and get her accustomed to the clicker and how should I best do it? I did a bit of trying to replace it with kissy noises or vocalisations but getting it to sound consistent between myself and my wife and also something not used in conversation and also something we don't keep accidentally using to get her attention probably breaks the absolute consistency required
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Sep 28, 2017 05:18
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A verbal marker ("Yes!") will also work, it's just a little harder to time as precisely as you can with a clicker.
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Sep 28, 2017 05:28
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Can you snap your fingers loudly? Does that upset her?
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Sep 28, 2017 14:32
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Snapping fingers is ok, at least she seems to ignore it for the most part, sometimes catches her attention but doesn't provoke the fear response. I catch myself doing it already to try and get her attention though, had the same thought about word triggers that we might end up using in general non-training conversation around her that might confuse her. It's an option though, might have to fall back to something like that but I wonder if it might be possible to gently reduce her reactions to the clicker by exposure? I just worry that it might be somehow related to pre-adoption trauma or abuse and I don't want to push it in that case, but if she's just naturally skittish about certain sounds it would absolutely be better to train that out of her for its own sake, in case she encounters something like that outside the home, as well as simplifying other training
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Sep 29, 2017 01:22
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Ayn Randi posted:Snapping fingers is ok, at least she seems to ignore it for the most part, sometimes catches her attention but doesn't provoke the fear response. I catch myself doing it already to try and get her attention though, had the same thought about word triggers that we might end up using in general non-training conversation around her that might confuse her. Nah, they're usually pretty good at picking up the context and usually the infliction will be quite different than from daily speech.
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Sep 29, 2017 01:29
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cross-postin' cause i'm a heckin proud papa I would like to present to you America's newest K9 good citizen: 
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Oct 4, 2017 01:04
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Is this the thread where I can gripe about my family? Just five minutes ago I was asking Apollo to sit and he didn't - just stared at me - and my dad went "SIT" from across the room. First of all, Apollo heard me! He was deciding if he wanted to sit or not! Second of all, I AM THE ONE TRAINING HIM I DO NOT NEED YOUR RANDOM INTERJECTIONS. Third of all, that probably confused or otherwise misled Apollo!  I'll talk to my Dad about this later - it's happened a few times before this and I need him to understand that repeating the command, but louder, doesn't help Apollo learn to do it when I ask for it. But I want to gripe about it, because man family is a pain in the butt. If only they'd respond to clicker training...
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Oct 5, 2017 00:04
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Reading through the OP and thread, but still came up with a question... Does anyone have some advice for teaching your dog to use their dog house? Is feeding your dog in the doghouse help it to get used to chilling in there? Or does it then only associate it with food, and not rest and shelter?
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Oct 6, 2017 16:41
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Do you have hay or something for insulation?
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Oct 6, 2017 16:58
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Dennis McClaren posted:Reading through the OP and thread, but still came up with a question... My dog will sleep anywhere even remotely sheltery. Under my bed, in his cage, on his place-mat, in my mother in law's tiny dog crates, and under my porch. It may depend on what type of dog you have but i'm not 100% on that
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Oct 6, 2017 16:58
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Submarine Sandpaper posted:Do you have hay or something for insulation? Yeah she has bedding inside the dog house to lay on. It's not just wood.
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Oct 6, 2017 17:25
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Dennis McClaren posted:Is feeding your dog in the doghouse help it to get used to chilling in there? Or does it then only associate it with food, and not rest and shelter? I know feeding inside crates is recommended for crate training I'd throw treats in there nonchalantly whether or not pup is looking. Also find one of your nice and unwashed stinky socks or old shirt or whatever.
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Oct 6, 2017 18:22
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My dog is doing great with games of Fetch. When I ask her to "Leave it" though- she doesn't fully commit. If I ask her to "leave it" in the house, or almost anywhere, she will stop what she's doing and recall to me, or just bugger off. When we're playing fetch, and I ask her to "leave it" she will drop the toy. The problem arises when I go to reach for the toy. She WILL reliably "leave it" but when I reach over to pick up the toy, she always lunges back for it. So she's like 90% of the way there at least with the catch, return, and drop. But the final act of picking up the toy for the next throw is subverted when she always goes back for the toy at the same time I do. Any tips on keeping her from going for the toy at the same time I do after a 'leave it" ? Nostalgia4Dogges posted:I know feeding inside crates is recommended for crate training All it took was some inclement weather outside, and now she loves her dog house! First night of a little unexpected cold shock here in deep south Texas and now she uses it all the time.
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Oct 18, 2017 16:03
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Dennis McClaren posted:Any tips on keeping her from going for the toy at the same time I do after a 'leave it" ? Ask for a sit before you reach down, and if she breaks it stop yourself, stand back up, and recue the drop it and sit. If the game never continues when she lunges, she'll figure it out pretty quickly. You can also get a tug toy to fetch and teach her to return to hand for a game of tug, skipping the whole toy on the ground step. This'll only work well if tug and fetch are pretty equal reinforcements - tug rewards the retrieve, fetch rewards the drop of tug.
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Oct 20, 2017 04:38
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I have a second hand dog. She's extremely cool and smart and trainable but I'm pretty sure I know why she ended up back at the pound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpCGqApq1D8 She's a loving thief, and an acrobat, and she came pre-trained to steal food off of tables and high countertops the moment nobody is looking. I know self-rewarding behavior like this can be pretty much impossible to break, but I'm down to try anything worth trying. So far, fattening her up is NOT working. There are already no barstools in the kitchen and there's ideally no food within 6-8 inches of the edge of the counter but that's hard to maintain 24/7 in a real kitchen and, as you can see in the hidden camera video, it might not be enough if she's determined. Of course every lapse just reinforces the behavior. We are bros for life and she is in no danger of being returned to the pound or anything absurd like that, so don't worry! poverty goat fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 28, 2017 |
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Oct 28, 2017 02:23
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