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lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

Sold. Do I need bigger bases

Like movement trays? I have little experience of larger games, as we rarely have formations bigger than four bases of 8 men each in our games. But be prepared that you'll be changing formations a lot, which is usually the primary argument for smaller bases. So if you put your entire line on a single movement base, it might get fiddly once you want to form a marching column or a square, for example.

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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

lilljonas posted:

Like movement trays? I have little experience of larger games, as we rarely have formations bigger than four bases of 8 men each in our games. But be prepared that you'll be changing formations a lot, which is usually the primary argument for smaller bases. So if you put your entire line on a single movement base, it might get fiddly once you want to form a marching column or a square, for example.

Well if I do 6 men on a base, a normal sized unit will use 6 bases instead of 8 bases.

I'm asking what size bases I need for 6 men basing.

I don't think the Waterloo starter set has the bases required or enough models

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

Well if I do 6 men on a base, a normal sized unit will use 6 bases instead of 8 bases.

I'm asking what size bases I need for 6 men basing.

I don't think the Waterloo starter set has the bases required or enough models

There's pretty much two versions to go for. Either 15mm frontage per man, or 20mm per man. Both seem pretty popular. I know the local guys who play General de Brigade, use 15mm. We use 20mm since we put our minis on individual bases for SP2, and then use sabot bases with 8 men per base. It's REALLY hard to do 15mm individual bases, so we went with 20mm.

The advantage of using 15mm frontage is that you get more realistic lines, as they should be pretty drat packed. At 20mm they look a little bit too dispersed IMHO, but it works. I'd cut out some cardboard bases and make some dry fits with your miniatures on them, and see which ones I like better. Form them up into squares, line, and column, and you'll probably end up with a favourite.

That is, unless you have players in your area already. If so, I'd ask what they use and go with the same basing.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

lilljonas posted:

There's pretty much two versions to go for. Either 15mm frontage per man, or 20mm per man. Both seem pretty popular. I know the local guys who play General de Brigade, use 15mm. We use 20mm since we put our minis on individual bases for SP2, and then use sabot bases with 8 men per base. It's REALLY hard to do 15mm individual bases, so we went with 20mm.

The advantage of using 15mm frontage is that you get more realistic lines, as they should be pretty drat packed. At 20mm they look a little bit too dispersed IMHO, but it works. I'd cut out some cardboard bases and make some dry fits with your miniatures on them, and see which ones I like better. Form them up into squares, line, and column, and you'll probably end up with a favourite.

That is, unless you have players in your area already. If so, I'd ask what they use and go with the same basing.

So if it's 15mm frontage, which is 6 men per base, I need 45mm wide bases rather than the standard 40mm wide bases that ship with the models?

I'm not gonna worry about movement bases because I don't have enough Voltigeurs to make a skirmish unit or even a mixed unit

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

So if it's 15mm frontage, which is 6 men per base, I need 45mm wide bases rather than the standard 40mm wide bases that ship with the models?

I'm not gonna worry about movement bases because I don't have enough Voltigeurs to make a skirmish unit or even a mixed unit

Yeah, with six men per base that'd be a 45x30mm base. Or you could go with eight and use a 60x30mm base. There are pretty much a ton of ways to do it, each with their pro's and cons.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Who sells 45x30 bases?

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

Who sells 45x30 bases?

Litko (us), Renedra (uk), lots of smaller laser cut mdf shops.

E:Scratch that, renedra makes 40x45 and 60x45, for some reason.

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Oct 3, 2017

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

lilljonas posted:

Go for it then! 28mm can be glorious as well. Here are some better pics of the dragoons I finished yesterday:











More pics on the blog:

http://krigetkommer.weebly.com/napoleonic-blog/more-french-dragoons

Perry's French Dragoon box is a really good buy, as you get 1.5 units of mounted dragoons for SP2, and 1 unit of dismounted dragoons as well. If I didn't have tons of unpainted stuff I'd be itching for a third box now.

How many colors do you do for your highlights? 3? 4?

Or are you just basecoating, washing, layering?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I know Grenadiers are red tassles, Voltigeurs are green tassels, what color are fusilier pompoms? Blue?

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff
Fun Shoe

Phi230 posted:

I know Grenadiers are red tassles, Voltigeurs are green tassels, what color are fusilier pompoms? Blue?

The four fusilier companies have a colour each. Blue, green, 'autumn' (usually interpreted as some sort of orange) and violet.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

How many colors do you do for your highlights? 3? 4?

Or are you just basecoating, washing, layering?

My standard painting method that I use for around 90% of stuff:

1. Basecoat, often two layers to get good coverage
2. Wash
3. Re-apply basecoat paint, but as a very broad highlight
4. A highlight layer, usually the basecoat mixed with grey or bone colour (I skip this on a lot of smaller details and metals, especially for rank-and-file troops)

Sometimes I do a second highlight layer at the end, especially for very large areas like the horses.

I wrote this blog entry on painting the French, but after painting a small army of them I've kind of revised my painting method. For example, I now use a light grey or brown primer instead of black. Maybe it's time to write a revised painting guide?

https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/napoleonic-blog/french-line-infantry-part-2-painting

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Oct 4, 2017

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



I noticed something while setting up my oath shot. Pendraken's 10mm Tigers are way, way too big. In real life, Panzer IVs were just a little shorter than Tigers. The scale is way off, the Tigers are way too big - And this seems to affect all their Tiger variants. Their Tiger II and Jagdtiger are the same giant size.

It hurts. I can't even look at them now without my inner grog trembling in agony. :froggonk:

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Geisladisk posted:



I noticed something while setting up my oath shot. Pendraken's 10mm Tigers are way, way too big. In real life, Panzer IVs were just a little shorter than Tigers. The scale is way off, the Tigers are way too big - And this seems to affect all their Tiger variants. Their Tiger II and Jagdtiger are the same giant size.

It hurts. I can't even look at them now without my inner grog trembling in agony. :froggonk:

That.... looks a bit big, yes. I had to check wikipedia:

Pz IV length (without gun): 5.92 m
Pz VI length (without gun): 6.316 m

So at roughly 1:180, the Tiger should be 2mm longer. Can you measure how much longer it is?

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

The Tiger is a little over a centimeter longer than the PzIV.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy


What am I doing wrong with the pants

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:



What am I doing wrong with the pants

1) Is that paint? Not easy to see from the pic, but it looks like it's a bit thick

2) Have you applied any primer first?

3) I'd scrape a bit more on the mold lines first, especially the one visible on the top of the shako.

Geisladisk posted:

The Tiger is a little over a centimeter longer than the PzIV.

Yeah that's way off.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

lilljonas posted:

1) Is that paint? Not easy to see from the pic, but it looks like it's a bit thick

2) Have you applied any primer first?

3) I'd scrape a bit more on the mold lines first, especially the one visible on the top of the shako.


Yeah that's way off.

Yeah the model is properly primed with a glossy grey primer. I'm stripping all the primer this weekend to apply a matte or flat primer instead.

The pants are basecoat + wash + reapplied basecoat. I'm more asking why the shade on the pants doesn't look right.

Did I apply the wash too thick/uneven? Did I not reapply the basecoat properly?

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Oct 5, 2017

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Should I just go with black primer instead?

Should I not be using a black wash on such a color at all?

Lupercalcalcal
Jan 28, 2016

Suck a dick, dumb shits

Phi230 posted:

glossy grey primer

Alarm bells ringing

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!

lilljonas posted:

That.... looks a bit big, yes. I had to check wikipedia:

Pz IV length (without gun): 5.92 m
Pz VI length (without gun): 6.316 m

So at roughly 1:180, the Tiger should be 2mm longer. Can you measure how much longer it is?

Maybe it's actually a 15mm Tiger?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Nifara posted:

Alarm bells ringing

Yeah which is why I'm restarting

me posted:


Before I actually restart I just need some technique advice:




Only the pants are painted on this model. In the form of basecoat + black wash + reapply basecoat.

1. Did I apply the wash too unevenly/too thick?

2. Did I over-apply the basecoat over the wash?

3. Is the re-applied basecoat, over the wash, supposed to be thinner than normal?

4. Should I be lightening the basecoat color when I reapply it over the wash?

Is the gloss primer (which is the reason why I'm restarting) a factor in why it does not look too good?

Crossposting. I'm all ready to put all my models into the Simple Green for the next few days to completely strip then down. Before I do that, I wanna make sure I have the procedure down packed so I don't keep doing things wrong and keep messing up.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 5, 2017

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

JcDent posted:

Maybe it's actually a 15mm Tiger?

I just sperged out and measured a whole bunch of my Pendraken models. Turns out that what Pendraken sells as 10mm is two scales. Most of their vehicles (that I have, anyway) are around 1/150, so a bit larger than 10mm. A few, like the Panzer IV, are around 1/170.

Not super happy about that, but oh well. It'll look fine on the tabletop.

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
Had a beautiful and terrible am that Lithuanians had a made a modern ruleset in several books, covering NATO forces, Russian forces, air operations... it was so well edited and illustrated... and only cost €4.30 a pop.

Was so sad when I woke up.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

Yeah which is why I'm restarting


Crossposting. I'm all ready to put all my models into the Simple Green for the next few days to completely strip then down. Before I do that, I wanna make sure I have the procedure down packed so I don't keep doing things wrong and keep messing up.

Just a heads up: don't feel too bad and don't be too judgmental of your first efforts. Stripping the paint is an option if you're really unsatisfied, but don't expect to get everything perfect from the start. It's better to keep at it, and after a while you can compare your freshly painted minis with your first ones, and you'll notice the difference.

That said, a gloss primer is probably not a good idea. Also, a lot of the time a wash directly over a primer will look a bit iffy. Even if you have a grey primer and want the pants to be grey, it could be worth the extra work to put down a layer of grey over the primer, before you apply the wash.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I already had a basecoat of Vallejo Pale Blue Grey 905 in there

Doesn't matter tho, it's soaking in simple green rn

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Phi230 posted:

I already had a basecoat of Vallejo Pale Blue Grey 905 in there

Doesn't matter tho, it's soaking in simple green rn

I see. Oh well, don't get spooked next time if the wash comes off a bit iffy, you can tidy it up a lot by re-apply a somewhat thinned down layer of the base paint, but while leaving the recesses untouched.

zokie
Feb 13, 2006

Out of many, Sweden
While a gloss primer sounds really crazy, I'd finish the mini before passing judgement. Things like colour is REALLY dependent on context.

Take a bunch of vibrant colours but arrange them according to greyness and it'll look dull and boring. But if you instead arrange them by chromanticness or group them by primary colours and you'll end up with something completely different.

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff
Fun Shoe
Anyone know of a manufacturer that sells 28mm loose muskets? Matchlock or wheellock.

Edit: Anyone have any experience with the quality of Essex Minis? The pictures don't do them any favours.

Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 6, 2017

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


Fish and Chimps posted:

Anyone know of a manufacturer that sells 28mm loose muskets? Matchlock or wheellock.

Edit: Anyone have any experience with the quality of Essex Minis? The pictures don't do them any favours.

I think I have a bunch of extra Victrix muskets. How many you need?

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
Is the The 50th (Northumbrian/ Green howards?) infantry div a good, non snowflakey unit for Brits? I'm looking for decals online and outside of Highlanders on WG site, there isn't much choice.

JcDent fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Oct 7, 2017

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Phi230 posted:

Should I just go with black primer instead?

Should I not be using a black wash on such a color at all?

Nope. With a black primer you want to build up from the shadows to the highlights. I mostly drybrush over black primer. If I want a normal hue of blue, I start with a pass of dark blue, then the shade I want, then lighter shade, and maybe finish with a very soft white drybrush to punch up the highlights. I find that the layers of progressively lighter hues will give the finished figure a nice glow.


Here, some old school 15mm, Essex Renaissance Poles painted with my technique.



Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff
Fun Shoe

Class Warcraft posted:

I think I have a bunch of extra Victrix muskets. How many you need?

It's not for me but for a friend and he needs 30-40.

Thanks for offering though

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

JcDent posted:

Is the The 50th (Northumbrian/ Green howards?) infantry div a good, non snowflakey unit for Brits? I'm looking for decals online and outside of Highlanders on WG site, there isn't much choice.
Green Howards in the 50th Infantry Division are the Territorial Battalions so they're reservist formations but the Regiment has had a good reputation.

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff
Fun Shoe
Old boney will soon have a headquarters.




Sarissa La Belle Alliance in 20mm scale.

tomdidiot
Apr 23, 2014

Stupid Grognard

JcDent posted:

Is the The 50th (Northumbrian/ Green howards?) infantry div a good, non snowflakey unit for Brits? I'm looking for decals online and outside of Highlanders on WG site, there isn't much choice.

I mean, most British Line units are fairly non-snowflakey unless you're talking about the Airborne. The Wallies didn't really go for super-special OMG special treatment in the same way that the Germans tended to do with Grossdeustchland and the Lower numbered Waffen SS divsions.

50ID was mostly a territorial formation that ostensibly recruited from the Northeast of England (Though as the war went along, they did lose some of their character), but lost a brigade in North Africa and was replaced by a combination of Free French, Greek, and other British territorials. They then had a brigade of Southern regulars permanently attached for the Normandy campaign and beyond. It was actually a pretty good division with a fairly solid reputation throughout the war. Your main problem with 50ID is you can't play with really late war stuff (like Comets and Ram Kangaroos) because the division was disbanded in November 44.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

tomdidiot posted:

I mean, most British Line units are fairly non-snowflakey unless you're talking about the Airborne. The Wallies didn't really go for super-special OMG special treatment in the same way that the Germans tended to do with Grossdeustchland and the Lower numbered Waffen SS divsions.

50ID was mostly a territorial formation that ostensibly recruited from the Northeast of England (Though as the war went along, they did lose some of their character), but lost a brigade in North Africa and was replaced by a combination of Free French, Greek, and other British territorials. They then had a brigade of Southern regulars permanently attached for the Normandy campaign and beyond. It was actually a pretty good division with a fairly solid reputation throughout the war. Your main problem with 50ID is you can't play with really late war stuff (like Comets and Ram Kangaroos) because the division was disbanded in November 44.
The Green Howards actually gave up a Battalion that became a Parachute Battalion attached to the 6th Airborne Division.

This is the result of what I was talking about here:

Arquinsiel posted:

The Regiment is an immutable* object which exists everywhere at once and is responsible for recruitment, training, traditions and the like. The Brigade is a field formation composed of multiple Battalions. These might be from the same Regiment but probably won't be. You'll probably see stuff like "3/Coldstream" too. As to why this happens, I think it's partially because the Battalion is the unit of manoeuvre and due to how Regiments could be raised by random rich dudes at times the actual size of the Regiment could be wildly variable so it might be impractical to form homogeneous Brigades, and partially because you don't want everyone who knows the words to the regimental song to end up being dead in Flanders.

*for certain values of immutable, defined as "until we feel like changing it" in most cases.
If you want snowflakey Divisions you pick the Airborne or the Guards. Even though the Desert Rats have a badass rep, post-desert they got cautious as hell and decreased in combat effectiveness because everyone left got really good at not dying and that sort of behaviour is the kind of thing that makes you really good at not attacking too.

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
I just want Regular Dudes. Unfortunately, you I have only found Highlanders on WG, and monty's ironsides and 50ID on some other place.

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
What if I go insane and buy this?
https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2699/fire-team

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
You will have gone insane.

Seriously though, if you go with the 50th Infantry Division the chances of people recognising them enough to think they're snowflakes is basically zero.

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Yvonmukluk
Oct 10, 2012

Everything is Sinister


tomdidiot posted:

I mean, most British Line units are fairly non-snowflakey unless you're talking about the Airborne. The Wallies didn't really go for super-special OMG special treatment in the same way that the Germans tended to do with Grossdeustchland and the Lower numbered Waffen SS divsions.

50ID was mostly a territorial formation that ostensibly recruited from the Northeast of England (Though as the war went along, they did lose some of their character), but lost a brigade in North Africa and was replaced by a combination of Free French, Greek, and other British territorials. They then had a brigade of Southern regulars permanently attached for the Normandy campaign and beyond. It was actually a pretty good division with a fairly solid reputation throughout the war. Your main problem with 50ID is you can't play with really late war stuff (like Comets and Ram Kangaroos) because the division was disbanded in November 44.
Eh, you can't really play with Comets unless you're sticking to the 11th Armoured Division anyway. A little bit of wriggle room seems fine.

I basically latched on the 11th Armoured as my division of choice for Brits in Flames since you could get their army list for free off the Flames of War website for a time. The fact they were the only ones to get Comets was something I found out later.

That's basically how I wound up with Commandos as my starting Bolt Action list, actually - the RM commando list was free on the website, so I latched onto it.

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