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Here's a dumb question of my own: would glazes/mediums help with getting a consistent thin coat? I'm guessing the best answer is just "get better at thinning", but I've been trying to improve my paint form (I started with gundam models so my basic ingrained technique is pretty much just "scrub the paint on in a bunch of directions to obscure pain strokes", like using a mop instead of a brush), and I've found that my greatest challenge is just getting a nice clean coat that isn't thick or splotchy. E: signal boost since I knocked it off the page and they look nice: Stephenls posted:
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Oct 9, 2017 22:02
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Thanqol posted:Hobby owns. Miniature painting owns. Everything owns. I've never had as much fun in my life. Really awesome looking AdMech (and Sisters) force, man. Every now and then I like to take everything out and put it on display to remind myself of how much work I've done. Yours are inspiring! Are you planning on adding anything else to them?
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Oct 9, 2017 22:13
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I've got a question about zenithel priming - if I'm understanding it correctly, it seems like it works best when it's used under a single color shade - like a blue glaze over a zenithel primed model creates a blue model with the zenithel highlights and lowlights. It seems like it would be very easy to completely lose the shading if you just paint over it normally, is this right? Can you use zenithel priming if your base color over that is white or black?
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Oct 9, 2017 22:27
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Neurolimal posted:Here's a dumb question of my own: would glazes/mediums help with getting a consistent thin coat? Thankee for the signal boost. My thinning solution mostly amounts to "Prime with an airbrush so the primer layer is perfectly smooth, basecoat with the airbrish for the same reason, then thin subsequent paints with water or half-and-half water and matte medium, and trust in the self-leveling qualities of the paint. Also, two thin coats." This will probably not work if you don't have an airbrush, alas.
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Oct 9, 2017 22:44
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Giant Isopod posted:I've got a question about zenithel priming - if I'm understanding it correctly, it seems like it works best when it's used under a single color shade - like a blue glaze over a zenithel primed model creates a blue model with the zenithel highlights and lowlights. It seems like it would be very easy to completely lose the shading if you just paint over it normally, is this right? Mediums allow you to thin the opacity of the paint but keep the viscosity so you'd still thin with water the same, and use the medium to make the colour more transparent, in the same way a glaze would work. quote:Can you use zenithel priming if your base color over that is white or black? Sure, if the black/white is thinned enough to allow the primer to show through and affect the tone of the white or black you're painting over it. I don't zenithal prime, but I do wash shades over grey primer then apply thinned colour layers over the top for quick lining, it works great for flesh.
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Oct 9, 2017 22:52
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Neurolimal posted:Here's a dumb question of my own: would glazes/mediums help with getting a consistent thin coat? Getting a consistent thin coat on a flat surface with a brush relies on getting the paint to the perfect consistency, exact right amount of paint on the brush, and the consistency with the actual strokes. However, why bother with all that when you can just get a $150~ airbrush setup to basecoat with instead? Trying to paint textureless surfaces without introducing any sort of texture using a brush is like trying to put in a screw with a hammer. Doable, but why? I remember agonizing trying to paint large flat areas with a brush before. I just use the airbrush now. I have virtually no skill with the airbrush and can't control it worth a drat, but for large/flat surfaces I get better results with it than I do with a brush after years of practice.
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Oct 9, 2017 23:09
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I normally don't post WIP shots, but it's been a while since I've posted in here and I'm really pleased with how my lightning is turning out:   
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Oct 9, 2017 23:21
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Giant Isopod posted:I've got a question about zenithel priming - if I'm understanding it correctly, it seems like it works best when it's used under a single color shade - like a blue glaze over a zenithel primed model creates a blue model with the zenithel highlights and lowlights. It seems like it would be very easy to completely lose the shading if you just paint over it normally, is this right? You can totally brush over it and it works, you just need to thin your paint to the level of a glaze. I did it in the tutorial with the green color. To your point though, yes, if you cover it with a completely non translucent color then the effect is wasted. It works for white and black, but for white it might not be necessary since your white prime is essentially what you would be doing with your base color. I tend to do it anyway though since you get more depth out of your whites when you layer multiple shades of grey/white.
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Oct 9, 2017 23:33
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jadebullet posted:Need your guys help with something. A very gentle and subtle drybrush with bone then white/off white would make them pop well. You could also deepen the recesses selectively with some pin washing. Instead of washing with brown/sepia you could try some blue/purple/green to add some colour variation as well so it doesn't look too flat. Also I really like the wings. Which kit are they from?
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Oct 9, 2017 23:36
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Cool, thanks guys. Do you vary up the amount of black/gray/white or is it always the same? I've never tried to do black as a glaze as opposed to a wash so I don't really know what I'm doing.
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Oct 9, 2017 23:36
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Neurolimal posted:Did you get a pressure regulator/water trap filter? They're usually combined, and cheap enough that they're typically thrown in with compressors, but it doesn't hurt to make sure. They're pretty useful for miniatures since you aren't going to want to hardcore blast the mini with paint outside of base coats. So far I have this compressor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and: airbrush cleaning pot air brush hose flow improver Does that need a regulator then? What regulator and quick release will go with the patriot 105. It seems so complex but I think once I sit down with the actual airbrush it will all make sense. I've never seen one in person. goodness fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 9, 2017 23:59
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Z the IVth posted:
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Oct 10, 2017 00:26
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Dr. Gargunza posted:
I used Vallejo duck egg green (I think, checking) on a vehicle interior and its a great pastel mint. EDIT: quoting myself from earlier in the thread. TTerrible posted:Hello painting thread, I've done something possibly stupid tonight and I want opinions on it before I go further. Please be brutally honest. TTerrible posted:Thanks
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Oct 10, 2017 00:48
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Thanks for Duck Egg (and thanks for the pics)! Nice work on the interior, too; I forgot how good that was looking.
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Oct 10, 2017 00:59
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Thanks for Duck Egg (and thanks for the pics)! Nice work on the interior, too; I forgot how good that was looking. Thanks! I'd completely forgotten about it till you mentioned pale pastel green. I got as far as shading the dark corners with sepia wash and varnishing before I packed it away. I should get back to it.
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Oct 10, 2017 01:06
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goodness posted:So far I have this compressor Looks like it has one. The glass tube on the end is the water trap, and the gauge attached to it tells you the PSI (pressure/square inch) you're spraying. Yeah, Airbrushes aren't difficult once you use them, they just look scary complicated at first glance. I have the knockoff version of the 105 (sold by the same company you got your regulator from) and it's pretty much idiot-proof. I've all but sprayed literal cartoon acid through the thing and it's refused to break. Mugaaz posted:Getting a consistent thin coat on a flat surface with a brush relies on getting the paint to the perfect consistency, exact right amount of paint on the brush, and the consistency with the actual strokes. However, why bother with all that when you can just get a $150~ airbrush setup to basecoat with instead? Trying to paint textureless surfaces without introducing any sort of texture using a brush is like trying to put in a screw with a hammer. Doable, but why? I remember agonizing trying to paint large flat areas with a brush before. I just use the airbrush now. I have virtually no skill with the airbrush and can't control it worth a drat, but for large/flat surfaces I get better results with it than I do with a brush after years of practice. I have and use an airbrush for model kits, I've been trying to hand base-coat because I figured learning the hard way will help me in the long run vs. Skipping straight to spraying. Glad to hear even painters with years of experience find it a PITA, so I may as well do it for future projects. Thanks for the response!
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Oct 10, 2017 02:10
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Question for the thread - is Lahmian medium better for diluting GW washes compares to Vallejo glaze medium? I'm finding that with the glaze medium the washes still tend to pool quite a bit and leave tide marks of I'm not careful. I've also heard about Vallejo thinner medium - is that better?
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Oct 10, 2017 02:40
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Crosspost from the Infinity thread,Alokgen posted:I painted a think thinking I wanted to play Military Orders, but ended up with the USARF box. Expect some 'Merica soon.
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Oct 10, 2017 03:41
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That's a nice Joan! Can't imagine the work for all the NMM.
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Oct 10, 2017 07:38
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Zuul the Cat posted:Really awesome looking AdMech (and Sisters) force, man. Every now and then I like to take everything out and put it on display to remind myself of how much work I've done. Yours are inspiring! Thanks man! I'm going to add a bunch of 30K battle automata to 'em because I like robots and wanted some variance on the Kalestian lineup. I've got a couple of Myrmidon Destructors as well which'll make great counts-as Kataphrons and let me field an Agrippa force against melee armies. I just primed all of them today. But from a visual POV, I've got three distinct factions in the army. The light blue/silver Skitarii force, the blue/bone vehicle cohort, and the purple/gold judicator branch. The judicators are currently pretty sparse with just the electro-priests and the dominus so I'm going to do the 30K Myrmidons and the big battle automata in purple which'll balance out the lineup. Hopefully by the time armies on parade hits I'll have three distinct columns grouped around the knight. After that, I'm done with that army! I'm strongly considering genestealer cults next - I'm thinking about cracking open some Leman Russes and have Tyranid legs coming out of them, like a bioform crawled into a tank shell like a hermit crab and is dragging it around. It'll be a challenge but a lot of fun too, it's going to be my first serious foray into kitbashing!
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Oct 10, 2017 08:12
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Hixson posted:I normally don't post WIP shots, but it's been a while since I've posted in here and I'm really pleased with how my lightning is turning out: This is super cool and some of the best lightning I've seen.
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Oct 10, 2017 08:22
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 Painted the Lord Relictor in some fabulous colours so that he can blend in with his buddies. Didn't not like painting this model at all, it's a Stormcast AND its way too busy. Oh well, 3 left and then its some Dwarves.
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Oct 10, 2017 10:45
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Dr. Gargunza posted:jadebullet, that color gradient is really nice and subtle. A light drybrush of your bone color (either straight or mixed with a very pale yellow) would definitely make the edges of the feathers pop. Sybarite Green would also be pretty close
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Oct 10, 2017 10:53
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Vallejo also makes a verdigris, both normal and technical paints.which should be a good match for nihilakh oxide.
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Oct 10, 2017 12:22
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Z the IVth posted:Question for the thread - is Lahmian medium better for diluting GW washes compares to Vallejo glaze medium? I'm finding that with the glaze medium the washes still tend to pool quite a bit and leave tide marks of I'm not careful. I've also heard about Vallejo thinner medium - is that better? I always toss some gloss medium into the mix with the glaze medium to really break up surface tension and avoid pooling.
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Oct 10, 2017 12:24
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Hixson posted:I normally don't post WIP shots, but it's been a while since I've posted in here and I'm really pleased with how my lightning is turning out: This is awful... ly great. I was concerned when I saw the second photo in the series, but man, the result so far is spectacular. You nailed that lightning.
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Oct 10, 2017 15:13
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Quick cross postR0ckfish posted:Not super happy with how the blade came out but otherwise fairly happy with how this dude turned out
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Oct 10, 2017 16:23
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Z the IVth posted:
Am I the only one that gets Andalite vibes from that?
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Oct 10, 2017 18:18
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I am rebasing my space marines as part of my paint job redo, and I have a lot of old metal characters. What is the best way to attach them to the slot less 32mm plastic bases?
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Oct 10, 2017 18:52
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Beerdeer posted:I am rebasing my space marines as part of my paint job redo, and I have a lot of old metal characters. What is the best way to attach them to the slot less 32mm plastic bases? Snip the slot off, file down the remains then paint a layer of liquid greenstuff on the bottom of the feet/other conection points. Let it cure and it should help. GW also makes some 32 slotta bases for Blood Bowl now, if you don't mind filling in the gaps.
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Oct 10, 2017 18:58
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Beerdeer posted:I am rebasing my space marines as part of my paint job redo, and I have a lot of old metal characters. What is the best way to attach them to the slot less 32mm plastic bases? I've been cutting off the slot tab, filing the feet bottoms smooth, and drilling/pinning (trying to drill through the heel part as it extends up into the leg, drilled through a toe once) them to the flat base. You could also get some 32mm ring adapters and just slap them around the old base if you just want the size conversion, but that'll look like poo poo if you have stuff on the base I think.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:00
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Beerdeer posted:I am rebasing my space marines as part of my paint job redo, and I have a lot of old metal characters. What is the best way to attach them to the slot less 32mm plastic bases? I've been using my Dremel stylus to carve out a slot. I like the slot as i feel it adds stability for these metal characters, particularly eldar (what I'm doing) because they have such tiny feet and pinning them is hard. I've just been rebasing Phoenix Lords because they look ridiculous on 28mm.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:03
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Z the IVth posted:Question for the thread - is Lahmian medium better for diluting GW washes compares to Vallejo glaze medium? I'm finding that with the glaze medium the washes still tend to pool quite a bit and leave tide marks of I'm not careful. I've also heard about Vallejo thinner medium - is that better? bonds0097 posted:I always toss some gloss medium into the mix with the glaze medium to really break up surface tension and avoid pooling.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:05
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I just finished painting a wise, old alchemist for a D&D campaign I'm running. I'm pretty satisfied, even though the cloak ended up a bit brighter than I intended. The lighting is terrible, sorry about that. I'm down to a single half-broken lamp at the moment.    Is there some easy way to create a sandy base? I have a bunch of models for the campaign that would look much better with a textured base, but I'm too lazy to do much work for it.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:14
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Decorus posted:Is there some easy way to create a sandy base? I have a bunch of models for the campaign that would look much better with a textured base, but I'm too lazy to do much work for it. GW make a series of texture paints that are meant to be spread onto bases and drybrushed with lighter colors. They come in several colors, and most of them come in two varieties, with different-sized chunks of texture in them; I believe the sand-colored ones are Armageddon Dunes and Armageddon Dust. Alternatively, Vallejo makes a substance called Sandy Paste, with really fine grains that'll look much more like sand at scale. It's pretty pale and may require painting, though, but its egg-white-like texture allows for sculpting while it's wet. e: Nice model! What line is it? (If you're concerned about the cloak being bright, a light coat of GW Carroburg Crimson shade will darken it a bit without losing the color.) e2: or Army Painter Red Tone wash if you like money more than I do Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 19:27
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Beerdeer posted:I am rebasing my space marines as part of my paint job redo, and I have a lot of old metal characters. What is the best way to attach them to the slot less 32mm plastic bases? SteelMentor posted:GW also makes some 32 slotta bases for Blood Bowl now, if you don't mind filling in the gaps.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:31
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Vehicle interiors were brought up a page or two ago, so I figured I'd say that Liquitex Bright Yellow Green thinned down and brushed over white primer does a great job of imitating the bright matte green you see in the interiors of most plane fuselage (it's a weird anti-rust coat, green is just the natural color of the mixture iirc). I imagine it would be way too bright to look good on a mini most of the time, but worth saying in case anyone's big into realism.
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Oct 10, 2017 19:53
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Dr. Gargunza posted:GW make a series of texture paints that are meant to be spread onto bases and drybrushed with lighter colors. They come in several colors, and most of them come in two varieties, with different-sized chunks of texture in them; I believe the sand-colored ones are Armageddon Dunes and Armageddon Dust. I'd completely forgotten about those GW texture paints, I feel a bit dumb. Thanks for reminding me! That Vallejo paste might come in handy for a few other projects too. The model is a Hell Dorado alchemist or something, a line well-suited for my Thousand and One Adventures campaign.
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Oct 10, 2017 20:09
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ijyt posted:This is super cool and some of the best lightning I've seen. Thank you Mr. Horseman berzerkmonkey posted:This is awful... Thanks for the kind words. Yeah my scheme looks reallllly gross until you get a highlight and shade over the basecoat
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Oct 10, 2017 20:36
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Hixson posted:Thanks for the kind words. Yeah my scheme looks reallllly gross until you get a highlight and shade over the basecoat
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Oct 10, 2017 21:05
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