AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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DogonCrook: Apr 24, 2016; I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters

There could be other problems but it sounds like your electrical is weak enough its just losing spark. The battery is no good imo, its seen too much lol. You really have to clean all that corrosion up or youll just kill a new battery too. Just go over everything check the grounds too. That battery cable needs to be replaced but if you clean it up real good you can probably limp it along.

# ? Oct 10, 2017 17:02

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# ? May 17, 2024 18:46

Razzled: Feb 3, 2011; MY HARLEY IS COOL

when I had weird idle problems on my 89 f150 I checked the following: IAC valve, TPS, MAP sensor.

It ended up being the map sensor being way out of normal calibration range

# ? Oct 10, 2017 17:03

autism ZX spectrum: Feb 8, 2007; by Lowtax; Fun Shoe

Was just gonna say, IAC valve then 02/MAP sensors

# ? Oct 10, 2017 23:58

Twerk from Home: Jan 17, 2009; This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

I've got two stupid questions today:

#1: I now own a car that wants premium gas, for the first time in my life. Ford Fiesta 1.0 that can operate on 87 octane, but "for optimal performance" wants 91 octane. Does the computer adjust automatically and pretty much instantly? What am I losing by just putting the cheap poo poo in it?

#2: I saw a super clean 2006 BMW 5 series for sale locally, guy was asking $3250. Only catch is it has 340k miles. What would TCO be on a modern-ish BMW with miles THAT high? A friend of mine is interested in it, but I have no idea what to tell him that would cost to own.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:00

Fender Anarchist: May 20, 2009; Fender Anarchist

Most modern cars will pull timing once they detect they're running on lower octane stuff. You'll lose power and fuel economy, but the engine won't be damaged like on older cars.

That said, even at 30k mi/yr, it's like an extra $400/yr worst case for premium, and the economy loss on regular only closes that gap.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:06

Deteriorata: Feb 6, 2005

Twerk from Home posted:

I've got two stupid questions today:

#1: I now own a car that wants premium gas, for the first time in my life. Ford Fiesta 1.0 that can operate on 87 octane, but "for optimal performance" wants 91 octane. Does the computer adjust automatically and pretty much instantly? What am I losing by just putting the cheap poo poo in it?

#2: I saw a super clean 2006 BMW 5 series for sale locally, guy was asking $3250. Only catch is it has 340k miles. What would TCO be on a modern-ish BMW with miles THAT high? A friend of mine is interested in it, but I have no idea what to tell him that would cost to own.

1) Engines have knock sensors that let them know when they're at the limit and will retard the timing to avoid engine damage. Lower octane fuel will give you less power and slightly lower MPG, generally. However, if you don't drive aggressively you probably won't see much real difference as you will rarely encounter knock conditions with either fuel.

2) Old BMWs cost a fortune to maintain. Routine maintenance like brakes costs twice as much as other cars, while other stuff breaks regularly and also costs a fortune to fix. You have to really want to own a BMW to put up with it. Your friend should plan on several thousand dollars per year in repairs.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:08

Twerk from Home: Jan 17, 2009; This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Deteriorata posted:

1) Engines have knock sensors that let them know when they're at the limit and will retard the timing to avoid engine damage. Lower octane fuel will give you less power and slightly lower MPG, generally. However, if you don't drive aggressively you probably won't see much real difference as you will rarely encounter knock conditions with either fuel.

2) Old BMWs cost a fortune to maintain. Routine maintenance like brakes costs twice as much as other cars, while other stuff breaks regularly and also costs a fortune to fix. You have to really want to own a BMW to put up with it. Your friend should plan on several thousand dollars per year in repairs.

Thanks. The car's a 1 liter 3 cylinder, so I think that "driving aggressively" includes merging onto the freeway in a sane and normal fashion. You spend a lot of time at WOT when you've only got 3 cylinders. I wonder if it's worth something like 93 octane in the summer, 87 in winter.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:13

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

With a turbo the inlet air is still going to be plenty warm year round. I'd run premium all the time and be done with it.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:19

Godholio: Aug 28, 2002; Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Run each one for a week and see if you can even tell the difference.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:39

Twerk from Home: Jan 17, 2009; This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Godholio posted:

Run each one for a week and see if you can even tell the difference.

One guy's dyno results didn't find much power difference: http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/threads/42028-1-0L-Ecoboost-Dyno-Results

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:41

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

DogonCrook posted:

Battery / connectors

Razzled posted:

IAC valve, TPS, MAP sensor.

Breakfast Feud posted:

IAC valve then 02/MAP sensors

Awesome. Thanks to all of you. It was dark and I had to Do Stuff last night so I did nothing on my truck except drive it and argue with my GPS about how to get around the construction. I noticed the headlights dimmed when the engine rpms dropped down below 500, which is (I think) consistent with an electrical problem like a dying battery and/or corrosion increasing electrical resistance. There could be other stuff going on as well, of course, but a battery swap (and a bit of time cleaning up the wires as much as I can) is easy and probably worth doing anyways.

EDIT: some poking around on RockAuto suggests an IAC will cost about $50, TPS $40, and RockAuto doesn't seem to stock a MAP sensor for my truck. I also found some videos explaining how to test these things with my multimeter, so I guess I know what my Saturday looks like.

Deteriorata posted:

2) Old BMWs cost a fortune to maintain. Routine maintenance like brakes costs twice as much as other cars, while other stuff breaks regularly and also costs a fortune to fix. You have to really want to own a BMW to put up with it. Your friend should plan on several thousand dollars per year in repairs.

Confirmed. I used to have a 1996 BMW 328is (loved that car!) that I drove from 250 000km up to about 315 000km in 2.5 years and it was an expensive (and lovely! and fun! and I loved that drat car!) toy. An oil change was $100, getting the clutch replaced - with OEM equivalent, not an aftermarket performance clutch - was somewhere close to $1000, I did the brake pads myself (with a friend who was curious about BMWs and had very good tools) but even those were about twice the price of pads for my friend's Subaru. Everything about a BMW costs more. Mine was eventually killed by overheating, which warped the heads and VANOS means a replacement engine is cheaper (including labour) than fixing that. And that was more than the car was worth at the time, so to the JY she went.

ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Oct 11, 2017

# ? Oct 11, 2017 15:46

CornHolio: May 20, 2001; Toilet Rascal

ExecuDork posted:

Confirmed. I used to have a 1996 BMW 328is (loved that car!) that I drove from 250 000km up to about 315 000km in 2.5 years and it was an expensive (and lovely! and fun! and I loved that drat car!) toy. An oil change was $100, getting the clutch replaced - with OEM equivalent, not an aftermarket performance clutch - was somewhere close to $1000, I did the brake pads myself (with a friend who was curious about BMWs and had very good tools) but even those were about twice the price of pads for my friend's Subaru. Everything about a BMW costs more. Mine was eventually killed by overheating, which warped the heads and VANOS means a replacement engine is cheaper (including labour) than fixing that. And that was more than the car was worth at the time, so to the JY she went.

Where were you getting your parts? When I had my E36 I joked to a friend that my parts were cheaper than what he was getting for his Taurus. To date that is the cheapest car I've owned, per mile.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 18:46

Garage2Roadtrip: Oct 27, 2016

CornHolio posted:

Where were you getting your parts? When I had my E36 I joked to a friend that my parts were cheaper than what he was getting for his Taurus. To date that is the cheapest car I've owned, per mile.

Yeah, same experience with a E46 330ci.

# ? Oct 11, 2017 19:32

Thom ZombieForm: Oct 29, 2010; I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

My 06 Vw rabbit is making some sort of rattling noise now, smells like burning plastic and gas. Haven�t left it running longer than this clip as it�s pretty concerning. Is this identifiable? https://youtu.be/oTcnscz15xk

# ? Oct 12, 2017 01:26

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

On Facebook

I believe this to be a dumb question and after a cursory forums search...looks like the place.

I am in the market for a truck. This is not a "what truck should I buy" question. I have been considering a number of possible 2017 fleet, or "contractor" trucks. I am not a contractor but do haul a lot of stuff to and from my project house.

Looking at either a GMC or a Dodge. The ones available are 2500, or I guess what would be called a 3/4 ton. For who knows why capitalist reason...these babies are like, 10k cheaper than their 1500 neighbor in the smallest trim package in a consumer model.

My question is...is there any reason why everyone who has a truck isn't driving one of these things? Besides just being a no frills interior...they come with loads of free stuff on em that is not cheap in the after market. Am I missing some reason why this would be a terrible selection for a truck rather than paying 10-25k more for the "Beef Jerky Edition"?

# ? Oct 12, 2017 01:36

rdb: Jul 8, 2002; chicken mctesticles?

Basic Poster posted:

I believe this to be a dumb question and after a cursory forums search...looks like the place.

I am in the market for a truck. This is not a "what truck should I buy" question. I have been considering a number of possible 2017 fleet, or "contractor" trucks. I am not a contractor but do haul a lot of stuff to and from my project house.

Looking at either a GMC or a Dodge. The ones available are 2500, or I guess what would be called a 3/4 ton. For who knows why capitalist reason...these babies are like, 10k cheaper than their 1500 neighbor in the smallest trim package in a consumer model.

My question is...is there any reason why everyone who has a truck isn't driving one of these things? Besides just being a no frills interior...they come with loads of free stuff on em that is not cheap in the after market. Am I missing some reason why this would be a terrible selection for a truck rather than paying 10-25k more for the "Beef Jerky Edition"?

You may be seeing the price of just the chassis cab. Most of the dealer websites only display MSRP of the truck without the accessories. Call whoever is selling it and ask for an out the door price.

Also I am certain you can find a base model 2wd half ton for way less than either of those. New trucks do not sell for MSRP, especially a 2017 when the 2018s are out. Go into a dealer and offer them 10k under sticker on a $40k 2017 truck and see where you wind up. Don�t ever accept their first offer.

E: just a cursory glance at a local ford dealers website reveals base model 2017 f150s for less than $20k. GM/ram will do you the same but skip the ram for quality reasons.

rdb fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 02:07

autism ZX spectrum: Feb 8, 2007; by Lowtax; Fun Shoe

As a Dodge truck owner, don't get the Dodge.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 02:49

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

On Facebook

rdb posted:

You may be seeing the price of just the chassis cab. Most of the dealer websites only display MSRP of the truck without the accessories. Call whoever is selling it and ask for an out the door price.

Also I am certain you can find a base model 2wd half ton for way less than either of those. New trucks do not sell for MSRP, especially a 2017 when the 2018s are out. Go into a dealer and offer them 10k under sticker on a $40k 2017 truck and see where you wind up. Don�t ever accept their first offer.

E: just a cursory glance at a local ford dealers website reveals base model 2017 f150s for less than $20k. GM/ram will do you the same but skip the ram for quality reasons.

Thanks for the tip. I wandered in off the street, and those prices are on the sticker and all the after market stuff (knapheide racks and boxes etc) are itemized.

I also need a 4WD due to location reasons.

But to clarify the question...the "contractor" models are defo way cheaper...probably because of lower demand and less mfgr incentives to move units maybe?

Just wondering if there is any reason NOT to get a stripper model with a bunch of cool steel on the back for 10k less than the 1/4 ton lower consumer model.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 02:56

rdb: Jul 8, 2002; chicken mctesticles?

Basic Poster posted:

Thanks for the tip. I wandered in off the street, and those prices are on the sticker and all the after market stuff (knapheide racks and boxes etc) are itemized.

I also need a 4WD due to location reasons.

But to clarify the question...the "contractor" models are defo way cheaper...probably because of lower demand and less mfgr incentives to move units maybe?

Just wondering if there is any reason NOT to get a stripper model with a bunch of cool steel on the back for 10k less than the 1/4 ton lower consumer model.

That stuff adds weight and reduces the overall capacity of the truck. Not a huge deal on a 3/4 ton.

Other than that they will do you great. 3/4 ton trucks have a stout driveline and are built a whole lot tougher than your average 1/2 ton. What are you comparing them to thats $10k more expensive?

# ? Oct 12, 2017 03:09

Javid: Oct 21, 2004

Anyone used https://autoplicity.com/ ? Never heard of them, but they have a part in stock that rockauto doesn't, for half as much as autozone charges to special order the thing.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 03:13

BoostCreep: May 3, 2004; Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?; Grimey Drawer

Javid posted:

Anyone used https://autoplicity.com/ ? Never heard of them, but they have a part in stock that rockauto doesn't, for half as much as autozone charges to special order the thing.

I bought a stock exhaust pipe for my 25 year old Talon from there a few years ago. Insanely rare and low volume part, but it was cheap and worked great. I'd use them again.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 04:06

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

On Facebook

rdb posted:

That stuff adds weight and reduces the overall capacity of the truck. Not a huge deal on a 3/4 ton.

Other than that they will do you great. 3/4 ton trucks have a stout driveline and are built a whole lot tougher than your average 1/2 ton. What are you comparing them to thats $10k more expensive?

Against the gmc Sierra. For the GM comparison. All the contractor trucks (2500HD) are in the 39-43 region new and the sticker on the Sierras (1500s) are start at 49+.

E: I'd consider a used contractor truck...but those things get rid hard and put away wet.

Basic Poster fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 05:23

a forbidden love: Apr 28, 2005; "It was never meant to beep boop be"

Hey guys, hoping for a little help with my 2005 Nissan Presage (2.5L). I'm stationed in Japan at the moment, I took it to the mechanic on base and they informed me that they didn't have the expertise to check it out and I would have to go out to a dealership. That alone would probably cost me as much as buying another car. My google-fu turned up a couple possibilities but hopefully someone that's smarter on cars can confirm.

Anyway, the trouble is very intermittent, it's only happened 4 times but at very inopportune times. Two times around mid morning and two times early evening. I hope this doesn't happen anymore but I'll take a video next time it does.

1)When I crank the engine the engine turns, revs to 2Krpm, dwindles down to about 500~700 rpm, then stays there. I pump the gas: nothing. I put it in gear and pump the gas: nothing.

First time this happened I kept cranking it over and over. Tried it priming it, even though it's an automatic. I though the battery was drained somehow so I let it run for a couple of minutes at 500 rpm but also nothing. The last thing I did before the car started running normally was to remove the CD from the player and the mini-disc from the player. After that it started just fine and went a week before I started getting the other symptoms.

2) The second time my car wouldn't work I cranked the engine the engine turns, revs to 1~1.3Krpm, then cuts off. Just turns over like it's about to start then cuts off. Dead.

I tried cranking over and over and nothing again. After about 5 minutes of me doing this and checking the fuses and air intakes and finding nothing wrong I decided (read: said gently caress it) to prime, well hold my foot down on the gas, while I cranked the engine. This lead to the engine going to 8Krpm and me promptly taking my foot off the gas and then engine flat lining again. Next thing I did was to hold my foot down as I cranked but maintained the RPM just shy of the red line, so about 6.5Krpm. I held it there for about 5 seconds then let off and the car started running correctly.

1.a) The third time was the same as the first time except this time the last thing I did was activate the mirrors, in other words push the button that makes the side mirrors open. After that the car ran fine for about 2 weeks.

2.a) The fourth time was the same as the second time except this time I held needle at 6.5k for 5 seconds, then 10 seconds, then another 10 seconds (with about 5~7 minutes between each crank) before the car started working again.

I've been driving in to work most mornings recently and it hasn't happened in about 2.5 weeks. Hopefully that's enough info to get some idea if not just ask and I'll answer. Thanks!

# ? Oct 12, 2017 12:50

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

On Facebook

a forbidden love posted:

Hey guys, hoping for a little help with my 2005 Nissan Presage (2.5L). I'm stationed in Japan at the moment, I took it to the mechanic on base and they informed me that they didn't have the expertise to check it out and I would have to go out to a dealership. That alone would probably cost me as much as buying another car. My google-fu turned up a couple possibilities but hopefully someone that's smarter on cars can confirm.

Anyway, the trouble is very intermittent, it's only happened 4 times but at very inopportune times. Two times around mid morning and two times early evening. I hope this doesn't happen anymore but I'll take a video next time it does.

1)When I crank the engine the engine turns, revs to 2Krpm, dwindles down to about 500~700 rpm, then stays there. I pump the gas: nothing. I put it in gear and pump the gas: nothing.

First time this happened I kept cranking it over and over. Tried it priming it, even though it's an automatic. I though the battery was drained somehow so I let it run for a couple of minutes at 500 rpm but also nothing. The last thing I did before the car started running normally was to remove the CD from the player and the mini-disc from the player. After that it started just fine and went a week before I started getting the other symptoms.

2) The second time my car wouldn't work I cranked the engine the engine turns, revs to 1~1.3Krpm, then cuts off. Just turns over like it's about to start then cuts off. Dead.

I tried cranking over and over and nothing again. After about 5 minutes of me doing this and checking the fuses and air intakes and finding nothing wrong I decided (read: said gently caress it) to prime, well hold my foot down on the gas, while I cranked the engine. This lead to the engine going to 8Krpm and me promptly taking my foot off the gas and then engine flat lining again. Next thing I did was to hold my foot down as I cranked but maintained the RPM just shy of the red line, so about 6.5Krpm. I held it there for about 5 seconds then let off and the car started running correctly.

1.a) The third time was the same as the first time except this time the last thing I did was activate the mirrors, in other words push the button that makes the side mirrors open. After that the car ran fine for about 2 weeks.

2.a) The fourth time was the same as the second time except this time I held needle at 6.5k for 5 seconds, then 10 seconds, then another 10 seconds (with about 5~7 minutes between each crank) before the car started working again.

I've been driving in to work most mornings recently and it hasn't happened in about 2.5 weeks. Hopefully that's enough info to get some idea if not just ask and I'll answer. Thanks!

Have access to an obdc reader? Did you clean the mass airflow sensor at the air intake manifold?

Basic Poster fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 15:52

scuz: Aug 29, 2003; You can't be angry ALL the time!; Fun Shoe

Thom ZombieForm posted:

My 06 Vw rabbit is making some sort of rattling noise now, smells like burning plastic and gas. Haven’t left it running longer than this clip as it’s pretty concerning. Is this identifiable? https://youtu.be/oTcnscz15xk

P...piston slap? Idk but that's a thing I would bring to a trustworthy mechanic like soooon. Hopefully someone smarter will chime in, but it sounds bad.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 17:01

BlackMK4: Aug 23, 2006; wat.; Megamarm

Time to play what the gently caress is making that noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvUNV3AaQB0

I've replaced:
#2 front control arms,
lower ball joints
upper control arms
sway bar endlinks
inner and outer tie rods
steering rack

It's not macpherson strut (so the strut doesn't rotate with the steering) but I tried tightening the strut nuts. Basically replaced everything here except 48068.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 17:37

Garage2Roadtrip: Oct 27, 2016

BlackMK4 posted:

Time to play what the gently caress is making that noise

Wheel bearings?
Caliper bolts?
Brake line mount points?
Brake lines?
Does the IS300 have a bolt-in/out subframe?

edit:

What about the upper strut mount, does it have a bushing or a bearing in it?
My S4 makes a noise from one of the upper strut mounts where the bushing appears to have failed and the bearing is wallowing around in the hole.

Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 18:11

StormDrain: May 22, 2003; Thirteen Letter

Basic Poster posted:

Against the gmc Sierra. For the GM comparison. All the contractor trucks (2500HD) are in the 39-43 region new and the sticker on the Sierras (1500s) are start at 49+.

E: I'd consider a used contractor truck...but those things get rid hard and put away wet.

Pickup pricing exists in a non standard world of economic pricing. Demand for half ton trucks is much higher than larger ones, they are cheaper to operate, and I think they live in a different land of USDOT regulation for businesses. I do know people who�ve upsized to a 3/4 ton simply because they are cheaper than a 1/2 ton.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 18:22

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

On Facebook

StormDrain posted:

I do know people who’ve upsized to a 3/4 ton simply because they are cheaper than a 1/2 ton.

Just for reference on 2017 consumer models...
Msrp for Sierra is ~28K
For 2500HD~33K

Base msrp for stripper models.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 19:14

spankmeister: Jun 15, 2008

Basic Poster posted:

Just for reference on 2017 consumer models...
Msrp for Sierra is ~28K
For 2500HD~33K

Base msrp for stripper models.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 19:16

DogonCrook: Apr 24, 2016; I think my 20 years as hurricane chaser might be a little relevant ive been through more hurricanws than moat shiitty newscasters

Thom ZombieForm posted:

My 06 Vw rabbit is making some sort of rattling noise now, smells like burning plastic and gas. Haven’t left it running longer than this clip as it’s pretty concerning. Is this identifiable? https://youtu.be/oTcnscz15xk

Does it smell like that inside the car? And no codes? I mean id check all around anything that moves on the outside of the engine and see if theres an obvious damage. Possibly a stuck starter solenoid and the starter gear chunked some teeth off so its spinning and slapping if that makes sense. Its very rythmic and its bogging the engine and if it were internal i just dont see how you wouldnt throw a code.

# ? Oct 12, 2017 20:54

BlackMK4: Aug 23, 2006; wat.; Megamarm

Garage2Roadtrip posted:

Wheel bearings?
Caliper bolts?
Brake line mount points?
Brake lines?
Does the IS300 have a bolt-in/out subframe?

edit:

What about the upper strut mount, does it have a bushing or a bearing in it?
My S4 makes a noise from one of the upper strut mounts where the bushing appears to have failed and the bearing is wallowing around in the hole.

I think wheel bearings are next on my list, but they make no noise and seem to have no play.
Caliper bolts / brake line mounts / brake lines are all fine.
It does have a bolt-in front subframe, I'll see if I can tighten those bolts any more.
Upper strut mount has a bushing as it's not a MacPherson strut car, so they don't turn with the wheel. I tried tightening them more yesterday but ended up snapping an allen wrench so I think they are tight enough.
Tried unhooking the swaybar completely, but it didn't change anything. No noises with the weight off the front.

Kind of at a loss now. :lol:

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Oct 12, 2017

# ? Oct 12, 2017 20:57

Garage2Roadtrip: Oct 27, 2016

BlackMK4 posted:

I think wheel bearings are next on my list, but they make no noise and seem to have no play.
Caliper bolts / brake line mounts / brake lines are all fine.
It does have a bolt-in front subframe, I'll see if I can tighten those bolts any more.
Upper strut mount has a bushing as it's not a MacPherson strut car, so they don't turn with the wheel. I tried tightening them more yesterday but ended up snapping an allen wrench so I think they are tight enough.
Tried unhooking the swaybar completely, but it didn't change anything. No noises with the weight off the front.

Kind of at a loss now.

I had a B6 A4 that had a crimped seam on the front subframe that separated. It make a popping/crunching noise for about a month until it self-clearanced.

So, based on the video it's only making noise when you turn the wheel back and forth?

I am biased towards strut mounts since I have to do the S4's and had to do both front's on the AW11. Looking at the part, if the bushing has poo poo, it'd rattle around in there probs?
Slop in a u-joint in the steering shaft?
Something contacting the inner tie rods or steering shaft?
Motor/trans mount? (I've seen a mount pick-up and put-down with steering input)

# ? Oct 12, 2017 21:04

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

CornHolio posted:

Where were you getting your parts? When I had my E36 I joked to a friend that my parts were cheaper than what he was getting for his Taurus. To date that is the cheapest car I've owned, per mile.

Rockauto for some things but most of the work was done by professionals. I am not good at cars, I just like them

# ? Oct 13, 2017 00:44

Mak0rz: Aug 2, 2008; 😎🐗🚬

Car: 2014 Nissan Versa Note
Mileage: Approx. 45,000 km (28,000 miles)

Nissan keeps sending us reminder emails about getting the big 42-month servicing done on this car. By mileage, the schedule says it should be done at 48,000 km.

The car gets used at least six days a week, but I don't live far from work so it gets very little mileage. Hell it's only three and a half years old at just over 40k which is really low, at least for a car in Canada. It won't hit 48k for at least another couple of months. Should I still get this service done now?

Normally I would, but I went there in mid September (because of the "come back at September 15th or at 48,000 km which ever comes first" sticker) but they actually advised I don't do it yet because it only went a couple thousand kilometers since the last servicing and the 48k one is a thorough and expensive job.

# ? Oct 13, 2017 14:31

Garage2Roadtrip: Oct 27, 2016

Mak0rz posted:

Car: 2014 Nissan Versa Note
Mileage: Approx. 45,000 km (28,000 miles)

Nissan keeps sending us reminder emails about getting the big 42-month servicing done on this car. By mileage, the schedule says it should be done at 48,000 km.

The car gets used at least six days a week, but I don't live far from work so it gets very little mileage. Hell it's only three and a half years old at just over 40k which is really low, at least for a car in Canada. It won't hit 48k for at least another couple of months. Should I still get this service done now?

Normally I would, but I went there in mid September (because of the "come back at September 15th or at 48,000 km which ever comes first" sticker) but they actually advised I don't do it yet because it only went a couple thousand kilometers since the last servicing and the 48k one is a thorough and expensive job.

According to nissan the 48km service on 2014+ cars is called maint#2? If that's true, and this is all it is, then it doesn't seem lengthy, expensive, or in dire need of being done until you reach the actual mileage.

# ? Oct 13, 2017 14:38

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

"Service battery" - the gently caress are they doing to it?

Pretty much the only time you'd want to change the oil on time instead of mileage is if you manage to go a year between oil changes. As long as you're within that window, just go on miles alone.

# ? Oct 13, 2017 14:50