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Professor Shark posted:It’s a Chev Cruze LT, would the turbo engine require anything different? It requires dexos oil to maintain warranty. dexos1 if it's gas, dexos2 if it's diesel. Mobil 1 meets dexos1 specification (read: ExxonMobil paid GM for the right to slap the logo on), and it's easy to find. No idea where you'd find dexos2 outside of the dealer.
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Oct 20, 2017 03:02
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah im still digging around but i think even rotella is no longer good enough. I use brad penn after having it recomended by some harley guys and it comes recommended on rennlist and ive been pretty happy with it. Plus its green so at a glance i can tell whats leaking without crawling under there lol. The race oils are good too but its too thin for an aircooled engine without a massive oil cooler and good lord its expensive stuff. Brad penn is pretty cheap. My 1966 Corvette has the flat-tappet 327, so I'm pretty wary about what I use. CI-4, CJ-4, or similar are what I typically look for in a diesel oil. Anything SM is a no-go. Mobil Delvac 1300 was my go-to for a while, but that (and the Rotella that everyone loved) were reformulated to CK-4 recently due to diesel emissions requirements getting stricter. That spec provides a lower ZDDP level than I was comfortable with. Valvoline VR-1 comes in the right viscosity (10w-30) and has enough ZDDP. Not sure what other requirements you have, but it comes in various viscosities.
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Oct 20, 2017 03:33
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Update on my 1996 Camry: It was not a burnt valve. I had to have the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor replaced. I also had the valve cover gasket replaced. The intake air temperature sensor had come lose but was okay. Here's a couple of the plugs:
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Oct 20, 2017 17:13
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Godholio posted:My 1966 Corvette has the flat-tappet 327, so I'm pretty wary about what I use. CI-4, CJ-4, or similar are what I typically look for in a diesel oil. Anything SM is a no-go. Mobil Delvac 1300 was my go-to for a while, but that (and the Rotella that everyone loved) were reformulated to CK-4 recently due to diesel emissions requirements getting stricter. That spec provides a lower ZDDP level than I was comfortable with. Valvoline VR-1 comes in the right viscosity (10w-30) and has enough ZDDP. Not sure what other requirements you have, but it comes in various viscosities. Yeah i have to run synthetic because it buys me 10f to 15f which is a godsend in the summer. Vr-1 works really well and i only switched because penn came so highly recommended and to see if there was a discernable difference in temp (didnt notice any) I have been happy with both of their 20w-50's and i see some pretty extreme engine temps in that thing. Im pretty sure brad penn is the old kendal racing oil. Like i think they just straight up rebadged it when they bought them and didnt change anything so it may have more zinc. Being small batch i think they get exemptions. Either way i dont have a catylic converter so i add an additive on top to be safe. Also brad penn used to be hard to find but now amazon has it. I need to do some research in idemitsu and see how much zinc they run because pricewise they are better than a lot of racing oils and if you can make an oil that rotory heads swear by it probably good poo poo because those are abusive engines on the heat front. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 18:47
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I've been driving my wife's '08 civic full time for the past few weeks because she's sick of driving manual and I just learned earlier this year and love it. Something I've noticed with the car is that at low speeds in first or second gear the car really bucks if you let off the gas at all. I typically have noticed it in parking lots and in stop and go traffic when I need to travelling around 10-15 km/h and slowly accelerating/decelerating. Is this normal or something I should get looked at? If it's normal, is there anything I can change about my driving to minimize it? Is it bad to ride the clutch in these situations?
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Oct 21, 2017 15:33
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prom candy posted:I've been driving my wife's '08 civic full time for the past few weeks because she's sick of driving manual and I just learned earlier this year and love it. Something I've noticed with the car is that at low speeds in first or second gear the car really bucks if you let off the gas at all. I typically have noticed it in parking lots and in stop and go traffic when I need to travelling around 10-15 km/h and slowly accelerating/decelerating. Is this normal or something I should get looked at? If it's normal, is there anything I can change about my driving to minimize it? Is it bad to ride the clutch in these situations? That's mostly normal. With a manual you have a direct connection between the engine and the wheels, so the whole system is affected by acceleration. When speeding up, the engine and driveline will twist a bit to the right as it applies torque to the wheels. Then when slowing down it will twist back to the left as the wheels in turn apply torque to the engine. There's always some level of lash in the system. You can push in the clutch when slowing down to alleviate it. If you've got bad or broken motor mounts, the amount of rocking can be severe, to the point of the engine trying to smash through the hood. I don't think that's what you're describing, though. In an automatic, you have the fluid coupling of the torque converter that absorbs a lot of the wind up, so you don't notice it as much.
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Oct 21, 2017 15:41
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It's bad to ride the clutch in ANY situation. It should either be engaged, disengaged, or you should be modulating it towards one of those states. If traffic isn't moving fast enough to idle along in first gear, well, that's why people buy automatics. Slipping the clutch to maintain a slow speed wears the poo poo out of it. Being smooth with the throttle (IE: rolling it on or off very gently and smoothly,) can minimize the bucking issue, but it can occur with nearly any manual-transmission vehicle in low gears. Just stay away from that condition as much as you can.
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Oct 21, 2017 15:42
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MrYenko posted:It's bad to ride the clutch in ANY situation. It should either be engaged, disengaged, or you should be modulating it towards one of those states. If traffic isn't moving fast enough to idle along in first gear, well, that's why people buy automatics. Slipping the clutch to maintain a slow speed wears the poo poo out of it. Yeah, I wasn't suggesting he slip the clutch - rather that he disengage it completely and coast if necessary. Thanks for clarifying.
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Oct 21, 2017 15:47
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, I wasn't suggesting he slip the clutch - rather that he disengage it completely and coast if necessary. Thanks for clarifying. I was replying directly, and you posted while I was typing; We’re on the same page.  If anyone ever really wants to get the full paint-mixer treatment, and you find yourself in Fort Lauderdale, let me know. The cam in my Corvette makes first nearly useless under 3k rpm. 
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Oct 21, 2017 16:46
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I rarely have to drive in stop and go traffic which is why I'm thinking of getting a manual. My wife has been daily driving in stop and go for years in this car which is why she wants an auto, so the clutch has probably seen some wear. Plus I learned to drive stick on this car so it probably took a bit of a beating there. So in a stop n go situation I should let a bigger gap open up and then not go until I know I've got enough space to let go of the clutch without stalling?
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Oct 21, 2017 16:58
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I disagree, the bucking isn't normal. You should be able to navigate stop and go traffic with no gas at all in a manual, just leave room and idle in gear.
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Oct 21, 2017 17:51
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An 08 could certainly have trashed motor mounts by now. With that said, most of it comes down to technique. You've got to learn a good bit more finesse with your feet than you strictly need with an automatic.
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Oct 21, 2017 19:02
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How do you decide if you should have winter tires or not? Snow stays more than a few days?
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Oct 21, 2017 22:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:An 08 could certainly have trashed motor mounts by now. With that said, most of it comes down to technique. You've got to learn a good bit more finesse with your feet than you strictly need with an automatic. Could be a combination of both. I'm still pretty green driving stick (less than a year since learning and less than a month doing it daily.) Is the motor mount something I should look into urgently? Christobevii3 posted:How do you decide if you should have winter tires or not? Snow stays more than a few days? Winter tires are more about grip in cold weather aren't they?
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Oct 21, 2017 22:44
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prom candy posted:Could be a combination of both. I'm still pretty green driving stick (less than a year since learning and less than a month doing it daily.) Is the motor mount something I should look into urgently? Winter and snow tires seem to be used interchangably, but they have always been distinctly different types of tires to me. Winter tires are more or less "normal" tires but made with a softer compound that keeps grip in cold weather on dry roads and are generally highway tires. Summer tires can get very hard and slippery in cold weather. Snow tires had big chunky tread with large, deep grooves to get a good bite in soft footing. The large tread blocks and soft compound made for a lot of noise and tread squirm at speed, so they wore quickly and were unpleasant on the highway. So generally winter tires were what you put on in October or November for general driving through the cold months. Snow tires were special purpose tires for when you needed to get through several inches of snow at fairly low speed. To answer the original question, put the general purpose winter tires on when it gets consistently cold, down into the 30s at night. If you have to drive through snow regularly, a set of snow tires might be useful, which you would put on shortly before the snow season starts.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:04
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prom candy posted:Could be a combination of both. I'm still pretty green driving stick (less than a year since learning and less than a month doing it daily.) Is the motor mount something I should look into urgently? Diagnosing mounts is something you should be able to do easily with a YouTube video and maybe an assistant. You basically need to put some load on the engine and observe how much it moves. If they are trashed then you should get it fixed as soon as practical. Any modern car won't let the engine fly around completely uncontrolled, but you should still fix it. As far as winter tires, I'd base it on how often you expect to need to drive in freezing temperatures and/or snowy/icy roads, and how critical it is that you be able to get through in those conditions.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:11
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BlackMK4 posted:I disagree, the bucking isn't normal. You should be able to navigate stop and go traffic with no gas at all in a manual, just leave room and idle in gear. Maybe. The manuals on BMWs now have a flow restriction such that it'll force the clutch to engage/disengage a bit slower so that it forces some wear on the clutch so the user doesn't let it out too fast, in order to save the transmission. On my E90s, trying to accelerate slowly in 1st caused bucking 1 in 10 times, and after removing the restriction, I never had it again. My F30 has it built in, but is a better design, so I have an issue 1 in 30ish times. It's really stupid.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:42
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To expand on the question about winter tires. I have cooper rs3-g1's currently which are ultra high performance all seasons. We are planning a trip from October 27th to California then on the way back through Lake Tahoe, Moab Utah, and Durango CO. I saw that in Lake tahoe you can be required to put on chains or snow tires in certain conditions and be fined for not having snow tires and carrying chains. But the way it is written includes M+S in the lowest rating which my cooper's are rated for. I guess what I don't know is what I need on the return trip from November 5th thru the 13th so I don't get stuck in a hyundai veloster or fined. Does much snow even happen during that time typically? It is a La Nina right now too? Is there somewhere I can get tire chains ordered in for this week? http://us.coopertire.com/tires/cooper-zeon-rs3-g1.aspx Could get a set of these in 16" cheap. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...icleSearch=true
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Oct 21, 2017 23:48
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Christobevii3 posted:How do you decide if you should have winter tires or not? Snow stays more than a few days? Temperature. Winter tires are made of rubber with a different chemical composition than all-season tires. All-seasons get very rigid at temperatures below 7 C (45 F) but winters stay nicely pliable. If you're expecting near-freezing temperatures, or colder, for more than a couple of days, get winters.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:49
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How long do winter tires hold up? Do they generally go bad from dry rot as opposed to wear? As southerner im not sure ive ever even seen a winter tire in store although technically its definetly cold enough here im not sure they are even available. Just lol if it actually snows here. Cars spin everywhere and nobody knows what they are doing. Theres also a lot of trucks and they dont know about the sandbag trick to weight the rear down. Thats not really related to my question i just think its hilarious how much carnage that alone causes. Maybe it is just that people here think winter tires are snow tires and it isnt marketed. We dont get a solid winter we get cold fronts basically, bu it is under 50 for a good month or two though so i mean really we should be using them i guess.
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Oct 22, 2017 00:18
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DogonCrook posted:How long do winter tires hold up? Do they generally go bad from dry rot as opposed to wear? As southerner im not sure ive ever even seen a winter tire in store although technically its definetly cold enough here im not sure they are even available. Not really. A good all season is adequate in the cold (into the teens *F ) as long as there isn't too much snow and there is no ice. Summer tires start behaving like hockey pucks below 40. I live in Central NC and run summer favoring all seasons on my cars that are for DD.
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Oct 22, 2017 01:00
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I got about 47,000 out of my last set of winter tires on my Prius C. I live in southern indiana, and ran them year round. They did lose some small chunks but thats probably from living on a dirt road. They made a huge difference. With the stock tires, which lasted 45,000mi, I couldn’t make it up the driveway if there was any snow. I had to tow it up with a tractor several times. With the snow tires it would sometimes engage traction control on ice but always made it up first try. I wouldn’t buy winter tires for just one trip.
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Oct 22, 2017 01:05
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The shop that fixed my 1996 Camry said I need to have the motor and transmission mounts replaced. They quoted $1100. That sounds a bit high, doesn't it?
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Oct 22, 2017 01:41
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Yeah. Unless that's a bitch of a mount. V6?
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Oct 22, 2017 02:15
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Mister Kingdom posted:The shop that fixed my 1996 Camry said I need to have the motor and transmission mounts replaced. They quoted $1100. That sounds a bit high, doesn't it? I would also say that's too much, I did my own motor mounts on my 2000 Camry 2.2 and it sucked doing the rear one because the top nut is hard to reach but the other two were cake. I had some motor mounts changed on a more difficult vehicle recently for about $600 with parts at a local shop so yeah I'd get another quote. Also Camries of this era had hydraulic motor mounts, make sure you replace them with another set of hydraulic mounts or your car will come back with a vibrating steering wheel/dash at idle.
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Oct 22, 2017 02:40
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DogonCrook posted:How long do winter tires hold up? Do they generally go bad from dry rot as opposed to wear? As southerner im not sure ive ever even seen a winter tire in store although technically its definetly cold enough here im not sure they are even available. Depends on how quickly you change them out when temperatures climb again. I bought a set for my wife's car in 2010 and I'm fairly religious when it comes to taking them off the car when temperatures are consistently above freezing. We run them (on average) between late November and mid to late March, at current wear rates they're going to dry rot long before the tread wears off. However since they spend all but 3-4 months of the year stacked in my garage I'm not really sure when that will be. For reference I live in the snow belt of NE Ohio (lake Erie stays warmer than the air, resulting in formation of clouds when temperatures drop, which then results in higher than usual snowfall downwind), winter temperatures are usually right around freezing with the occasional trip well above or below. Snowfall is usually measured in feet annually. She usually drives less than 1000 miles per month too, which probably helps with their longevity.
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Oct 22, 2017 03:07
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Mister Kingdom posted:The shop that fixed my 1996 Camry said I need to have the motor and transmission mounts replaced. They quoted $1100. That sounds a bit high, doesn't it? Insanely high if it's the 4 cylinder (and I seem to remember it being the 4). You can tackle 2 of them yourself with a floor jack, block of wood, and hand tools (you basically put a block of wood [long enough to go past 2 corners of the pan] between the engine oil pan and jack, and lift it enough to R&R the mounts). Well, you could do all of them that way, but the rear one is a pain in the dick on most FWD cars. It's also kind of a pain to get it lined back up if the mounts were really bad. If it's not vibrating too bad and not eating CV joints, I'd personally just ignore it, or replace the top and front ones in the driveway. But that's more because I'm lazy and cheap.
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Oct 22, 2017 11:00
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Insanely high if it's the 4 cylinder (and I seem to remember it being the 4). It's the 4cyl. Since there's no unusual vibrations, I'm going to let it go for now. I might check around town to see if I can get it done cheaper. As for doing it myself, I don't have the tools or the skills. Thanks to all for the responses.
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Oct 22, 2017 13:06
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Mister Kingdom posted:As for doing it myself, I don't have... the skills. Can you push a lever in a circular motion while swearing profusely? Then you've got the skills
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Oct 22, 2017 15:22
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I drive a 2001 Honda Civic (automatic transmission) and it's a terrific car, no complaints. Lately though the gas mileage has been quite low - around 23-24mpg through mostly city driving. Is there anything I can do to get better mileage?
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Oct 22, 2017 22:40
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Miles? Oil changes? Tire pressure? Any error codes?
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Oct 22, 2017 22:48
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ADolan posted:I drive a 2001 Honda Civic (automatic transmission) and it's a terrific car, no complaints. Lately though the gas mileage has been quite low - around 23-24mpg through mostly city driving. Is there anything I can do to get better mileage? I would start with new plugs and air filter, because they're fairly cheap and easy to replace. Next would be oxygen sensors, but I don't know how hard they are to replace on an '01 Civic. After that, stuff gets expensive. Could be a cracked exhaust manifold or a bad catalyst, for example. Lots of things lead to bad gas mileage so it's hard to tell right off.
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Oct 22, 2017 22:49
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Primary oxygen sensor is dead simple on the 01. It's still the D series, which has the exhaust manifold where it's supposed to be (up front) instead of on the firewall side.
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Oct 22, 2017 23:17
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So update on the Turismo, after the suggestions failed to get it running I had a friend come over and look at it with me and we established the timing belt is off by an entire 1/3 of a turn which is why it sometimes fires if way advanced. Going to retime it from scratch some time in the next couple weeks. It had over 8 quarts of oil in it when I got it which I suspect is related (as in the last owner was an idiot).
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 23, 2017 01:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can you push a lever in a circular motion while swearing profusely? Then you've got the skills And you can buy a lot of tools with $1100.
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Oct 23, 2017 02:44
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At the end of the day a lot of car repairs are simply: 1. Remove things in the way. 2. Remove bolts for part to be changed while swearing, the swearing isn't required but enhances the tool's effectiveness like a magic spell. 3. Remove part and stare at it for a few seconds while commenting on how bad it looks then throw away. 4. Lose tools and find them again. 5. Put new part where the old part was. 6. Reapply bolts, swear whenever you drop one just in case. 7. Put things previously in the way back where you found them. (Do not forget) 8. Add any necessary essential oils, headlight fluids, battery gloss etc.
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Oct 23, 2017 02:57
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2001 Ford Ranger 2.3l 4 cyl I'm trying to diagnose a misfire that happens on hard acceleration and highway speeds. I changed the fuel filter and spark plugs today, but the misfire is still happening. #3 plug was pretty covered in oil. Could that be the cause of the misfire or should I start looking at the ignition coil or fuel pump?
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Oct 23, 2017 03:04
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The oil may just be a bad valve cover gasket leaking oil onto the plug. Some things to check would be the Coil/injectors but you may just have a dirty MAF sensor or a vacuum leak causing the mix to go lean under load.
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Oct 23, 2017 03:14
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Autoexec.bat posted:At the end of the day a lot of car repairs are simply: Don't forget "having to go to the parts store for more 10mm sockets".
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Oct 23, 2017 06:38
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I bought a used 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport in September and woke up today to a pretty big issue: The car's electrical system is completely dead. It ran fine yesterday but today the light on the handle didn't come on when I approached, it didn't respond to my key fob, when I opened it with the key none of the lights came on and it certainly didn't respond to the ignition button being pressed. I think that the ignition button lit up it's "Engine Start" light once, for a second, but it wasn't something that happened every time I pressed the button. I took the wife's car to work and looking online I found someone who said they had total electrical failure on an '08 twice in gas stations, and solved it by slamming the door. I did not try slamming the door but other than that I don't really know where to start. The battery had died a few weeks ago and while I'm not sure if a light was left on or what, I was able to jump it and get it running. I took it into the dealership and had them look at the battery system while fixing some recall issues, but they didn't see anything wrong. This time there's no response from any system at all. I guess a good follow up question I should ask is: Do dealerships usually have tow companies they work with? I have AAA but this isn't an emergency I'd like to call them in for. I have no way of moving my car to the dealership as is and figure they've got to have something in place for a situation like this. LawfulWaffle fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 23, 2017 12:41
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