|
When I hear 'rockfall' I think of a few head-sized rocks falling, but drat: https://twitter.com/YosemiteNPS/status/913595020342464518
|
# ? Sep 30, 2017 17:06 |
|
|
# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:00 |
|
Syncopated posted:If you were european you would be over the badass limit, as 5.11c is 7a. Congrats! Holy Wow, I didn't do the conversion.
|
# ? Sep 30, 2017 23:56 |
|
Just did my first deep-water soloing at Pace Bend (Austin TX) today. It was fun as hell. I can't believe I haven't done it before, especially since I live only 50 minutes away from the spot. I'll definitely be going more often.
|
# ? Oct 1, 2017 01:01 |
|
Just got home from watching Dirtbag: The legend of Fred Beckey. loving. Amazing. Really, really, really cannot highly recommend seeing that if it comes to a festival near you, or once it's more widely available. One of the best climbing "personality" docs I've ever watched. Granted, Beckey is my idol beside John Clarke, so I may be heavily biased.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2017 03:14 |
|
Had a cool moment yesterday where I was trying a new route with an undercling and I thought to myself "holy poo poo, I'm holding on to this pinchy undercling and it doesn't feel too bad" which I couldn't have imagined 3 weeks ago. Then I tried to reach the next one and fell on the mat, but STILL. Progress is fun.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2017 12:42 |
|
Anyone here got experience with AC joint injuries? I had some weird pain (more like just slightly painful stiffness) in my shoulder for the last couple of weeks and a general sensation of feeling a bit sore/weak, I've been climbing on it since nothing really hurt but it doesn't seem to be going away and there does seem to be some swelling around the AC joint. From looking it up online it sounds like this could be potentially difficult to heal if it's not properly dealt with, but the severity of the injury I have seems to be minimal even compared to most descriptions of a grade 1 spain. I'm going to go see a doctor as soon as I can but gently caress knows when that will be and my experience with GPs re: sports injuries is that they don't give a gently caress if it doesn't need surgery so I'm not really hopeful. I'd just like to know if I should stop climbing on it and if so for how long.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2017 22:07 |
|
I've had a lot of minor shoulder injuries, and my usual starting point to decide if it needs professional help is: 1) does it hurt while at rest? 1a) does the pain subside after warming up the joint? If it does, it's most likely inflammation, probably due to poor movement patterns (you didnt specify an acute event) and you need to do some rehabbing. Go to a physio if you can, or try any of the shoulder rehab protocols online for a week or two, but keep moving through low intensity exercise. 1b) if the pain persists with warming up, or gets worse, you need to see a professional. A sports doc preferably, but a physio is a good first line of action as theyre plentiful and the problem might not require surgery or medication. If you're not already doing it, look into a (p)rehab protocol for the shoulders. I like ido portal's band routine, it's on youtube, I haven't had any serious issues with my shoulders after incorporating it into my warm-up about a year and a half ago.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2017 07:56 |
|
It does hurt a tiny bit at rest but it's kind of like a 1/10 pain, it feels like someone gently applying pressure to the joint, but I didn't really notice it until this weekend; which suggests I might have made it worse, which is why I'm being a bit more cautious now. As you say there wasn't a single specific traumatic event. While warmed up / actually climbing it hasn't been painful at all but it has been feeling like it's not 100% in terms of strength. I think I'll probably skip climbing for a week or two, spend some extra time doing exercises on the injured shoulder, and hit up my physio, hopefully that will get it on the path to a proper recovery.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2017 08:07 |
|
I'd follow dave mcleod's advice from his awesome climbing injury book "make not break" (or something like that) and keep climbing as long as it doesnt hurt. Start real slow with controlled traversing on easy terrain, no dynamic movement, aim to work on footwork and just get the blood flowing. In my experience minor injuries heal a lot faster with light activity than with just rest. Ramp up the intensity slowly, but make sure you're always in full control of your movements. After a week or so with no symptoms you can try to work back up to your pre-injury level, but don't rush into it. For sure see a physio if you can.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2017 12:31 |
|
Mostly I'm just worried about it turning into a full blown separated shoulder which is apparently something which can happen if I overexert it in the wrong way while it's still healing, but I managed to get a physio visit tomorrow evening so I'll hopefully be able to get a decent regime to follow. I do generally subscribe to the "carefully working through injury" school of thought but equally I don't want to gently caress myself up permanently. Thanks for the advice
|
# ? Oct 3, 2017 18:49 |
|
Siamang posted:When I hear 'rockfall' I think of a few head-sized rocks falling, but drat: Some of the first comments on the Rock and Ice online snippet about this were "I smell a first ascent!!" Super classy considering someone died... I dunno, it bothers me given they trip all over themselves to say RIP/namaste when a "famous" climber dies E: the lesson here is never read the comments
|
# ? Oct 5, 2017 03:35 |
|
The modern climbing community is super toxic and its best to move on to alpine poo poo as fast as possible to avoid interacting with those types as much as possible.
|
# ? Oct 5, 2017 04:22 |
|
Never read the comments.
|
# ? Oct 5, 2017 16:01 |
|
Sigmund Fraud posted:Got a full rack of DMM Dragon cams and looking to get micro cams to complement the rack. The smallest cam I got is a Blue #00 with range 13-21 mm. Good choice with the dragon cams. They're lovely. You're going to have trouble ticking all that list in one go though. In my experience the stoppers on lobes are not to stop the cam from collapsing or inverting - the placement's already blown by that point. The stoppers are there to allow you to use it without any cam action at all - like a rock/nut/moac/.... To be helpful - Camalot C3s come in a colour coded range that has several sizes going smaller than your blue DMM cam. They have stoppers on them and there are only 3 camming units to keep them narrow. Alternatively, yet another bunch of people have brought out a knockoff of the legendary alien cams. They're called Alien revolutions have your extendable slings, 4 camming units and go almost as small as the camalots. Personally, I'd go for the aliens. My fave bit of kit is a green totem cam- they're the sort of original knockoffs of the alien cams. It's really reassuring how it grabs into crappy placements and how flexible the stem is. Also I don't trust C3s.
|
# ? Oct 10, 2017 23:02 |
|
Totems, you want Totems. Insanely good.
|
# ? Oct 11, 2017 02:42 |
|
I am pretty shocked that Hayden took his life... So sad. https://www.adventure-journal.com/2017/10/climber-hayden-kennedy-dead-montana-avalanche/
|
# ? Oct 11, 2017 02:45 |
|
Given the circumstances of the failed avalanche rescue it is understandable.
|
# ? Oct 11, 2017 05:55 |
|
I have a few questions for those of you who are experienced: 1. I've been using the Climb On lotion bar after each session (it was recommended in this thread) to take better care of my hands. I like it, but I've noticed that I have to use a lot more chalk now, and the chalk I use doesn't last very long - my hands become sweaty and slippery a lot more quickly, usually in the middle of a problem. Is that normal? I only do bouldering, and feel silly about having to stop mid-route to re-apply chalk. 2. Is it possible to become stronger while losing weight? My experience from weight-lifting suggests no. At the same time however, I have a few extra pounds (5-7 lbs) that I want to shed. So I'm sort of conflicted.
|
# ? Oct 22, 2017 23:12 |
|
1. Crimp oil is love, crimp oil is life. 2. Yes.
|
# ? Oct 22, 2017 23:27 |
|
Rime posted:1. Crimp oil is love, crimp oil is life. Can you elaborate please? Is the lotion bar I have bad?
|
# ? Oct 22, 2017 23:31 |
|
No it's fine, it just might be over-moisturizing your skin type and preventing it from toughening up. I prefer crimp oil because it rejuvenates dry skin from extended sessions but doesn't soften my calluses. An uptick in sweaty hands can also be a reaction to chalk. I had a crazy heavy chalk day last time I was out and when I went to work the next day I was sweating liters out of my palms, it was insane.
|
# ? Oct 22, 2017 23:33 |
|
enraged_camel posted:2. Is it possible to become stronger while losing weight? My experience from weight-lifting suggests no. At the same time however, I have a few extra pounds (5-7 lbs) that I want to shed. So I'm sort of conflicted. Rime posted:2. Yes. I don't disagree, but think it's worth adding a note of caution -- if you're trying to lose weight, just be extra mindful of overtraining, and make sure that you're getting plenty of good rest between your strength sessions.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2017 02:34 |
|
Sharks Eat Bear posted:I don't disagree, but think it's worth adding a note of caution -- if you're trying to lose weight, just be extra mindful of overtraining, and make sure that you're getting plenty of good rest between your strength sessions. As someone who is in "training mode" to prep for sending season (I hate injuries), and also recovering from a heinous knee injury: I've dropped another ~20 pounds from my frame, but have been working hard to lose as little muscle memory and strength as possible through continued weight training, campus, and systems board work. It's working, but only because I think I'm maintaining strength, but shedding pounds. Ergo - stay as strong but just be *~lighter~*. Injury is pretty easy though. *~Getting strong is hard~*. I hangboard about twice a week for 20 minutes, and boulder/weight train twice a week outside of that. Just be careful not to overdo it, like everyone says.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2017 14:22 |
|
It seems counterintuitive, but I stopped having finger injuries after getting more disciplined about hangboard training.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2017 14:55 |
|
tortilla_chip posted:It seems counterintuitive, but I stopped having finger injuries after getting more disciplined about hangboard training. I would agree with this, I don't think I've ever seen anyone get injured from the hang board itself, but rather from mismanaging themselves and their workouts. The caveat being my statement only applies to the trango boards
|
# ? Oct 24, 2017 01:15 |
|
Finally went bouldering again like two months after I injured my finger. Felt so good to get back to it, even if I stuck to really easy stuff so get back in the swing of things (and not injure myself again).
|
# ? Oct 24, 2017 07:04 |
|
Just got back from the Red. I love that place so much. Got on some 12's, sent some 11's. Everyone needs to climb there at some point.enraged_camel posted:I have a few questions for those of you who are experienced: You could also be using too much climb on. If your hands are oily after applying it you are putting on too much.
|
# ? Oct 26, 2017 00:54 |
|
enraged_camel posted:
John Dunne says you can. He was a pioneer of the train heavy, climb light approach. Necky solo action + yaarkshire ethics start at 3 minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA
|
# ? Oct 27, 2017 16:58 |
|
Yeah, higher end you'll start tying an extra 50lbs+ to your belt when you hangboard, since bodyweight will only take you so far. In the hiking offseason I train with a 60lb loaded pack, because my week long expedition setup is usually around 35lbs and thus I can haul rear end twice as far in a day.
|
# ? Oct 27, 2017 18:17 |
|
Endjinneer posted:John Dunne says you can. He was a pioneer of the train heavy, climb light approach. John Dunne was a freak of nature. Not sure how much he weighed in his heyday, but no one that shape has climbed that hard before or since. People think Jan Hojer is heavy now cos he weighs about 80kg (176lb) at like 6' 2. Ondra is what, like 65kg, and Megos is 57 ffs. In my experience, you can definitely stay 'climbing strong' while losing weight, because as much as people like to say it isn't, it's so dictated by your weight. I'm currently heavier and stronger than I've ever been generally, but not climbing any harder than I was five years ago or so, when I was about 8kg lighter. As people have said though, watch out for injuries. Anecdotal evidence only, but I've always felt much more injury prone on a calorie deficit, which I suppose makes sense.
|
# ? Oct 28, 2017 10:28 |
|
Is anyone in here a German speaker? I'm working on a jam game involving mountaineering and want some authentic phrases German climbers might say while climbing. Basically things your climbing buddies might yell while you are climbing, encouragements etc.
|
# ? Oct 29, 2017 19:05 |
|
Auf geht’s! = go for it Zu = take, zu zu zu ZU ZU ZU!! = TAKE GOD drat IT Ab = let me down Komm! = literally means “come” but you can use it as encouragement That’s off the top of my head, I’ll post again if I think of more.
|
# ? Oct 30, 2017 09:08 |
|
taqueso posted:Is anyone in here a German speaker? I'm working on a jam game involving mountaineering and want some authentic phrases German climbers might say while climbing. Basically things your climbing buddies might yell while you are climbing, encouragements etc. For realism, you should just have all nationalities screaming 'ALLEZ'.
|
# ? Oct 30, 2017 13:56 |
|
you are either ALLEZ or VENGA VENGA VENGA
|
# ? Oct 30, 2017 15:07 |
|
Awesome, thanks. This jam is over in a day and a half, I'll post the result then. If you have any more feel free to drop them in here. e: Is there an equivalent of "Send It!" ? My friend really wants that to be in the game. The phrasing could be a little tongue-in-cheek. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzOUgwsQ_hM taqueso fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Oct 30, 2017 |
# ? Oct 30, 2017 18:31 |
|
Well jam is over, ended up cutting the encouraging phrases for space unfortunately. http://www.awfuljams.com/octojam-iv/games/h8
|
# ? Nov 1, 2017 05:06 |
|
I just started climbing about a month ago when some friends invited me up to Montreal and try it out. Now I'm addicted, bought the recommended Self-Taught Climber book (so excited for it to come), got a grip-strengthener, and about to invest in a harness so I can do something other than just bouldering. I'm slowly working my way through this thread absorbing tons of good info that'll help me learn some actual technique, instead of just using More Power. Anyone living in / around Burlington, VT looking for a climb-pal?
|
# ? Nov 1, 2017 16:44 |
|
Wrr posted:I just started climbing about a month ago when some friends invited me up to Montreal and try it out. Now I'm addicted, bought the recommended Self-Taught Climber book (so excited for it to come), got a grip-strengthener, and about to invest in a harness so I can do something other than just bouldering. I'm slowly working my way through this thread absorbing tons of good info that'll help me learn some actual technique, instead of just using More Power. Go to Smuggler's Notch when the weather is nice.
|
# ? Nov 2, 2017 02:11 |
|
Here's a video of me climbing like poo poo. I've been climbing for ~3 months. I think I need to pay more attention to technique and pre-planning to minimize the need to shift feet and overall position.
|
# ? Nov 2, 2017 05:06 |
|
|
# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:00 |
|
enraged_camel posted:Here's a video of me climbing like poo poo. I've been climbing for ~3 months. Use your toe edges more, you're pretty much always on the balls of your feet here which will stop being viable at V1. If you can't stand on your toe edge without slipping, your shoes are too big. Otherwise not bad for 3 months, you've got better general motion than I see in some people who've been climbing for a year.
|
# ? Nov 2, 2017 06:24 |