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Electric Bugaloo posted:I can’t help you there but it seems like there are a few bespoke editors on the internet, as well as compatibility with some general interface/editing programs and plugins. Have been doing a bit of sleuthing and it looked like the best option involved buying an Atari ST. Fortunately, the rack counterpart D110 has more of a community so will try my hand at some of those solutons. It's like user-experience wasn't part of the game for Roland at that time.. Startyde posted:Opcode Galaxy+ supports d10. I love my dead gay editor. Amazing, will try this too. Thanks
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# ? Oct 21, 2017 11:17 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 19:40 |
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For most of the synths it supports, it's still the best option imo.
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# ? Oct 21, 2017 11:45 |
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I've got a really lovely Piano (Yamaha P115) but it has a fairly limited set of sounds on it by design. It doesn't have a DIN port, only USB midi. Does that mean it will work with these kind of things: https://www.thomann.de/gb/doepfer_dark_energy_ii.htm or https://www.thomann.de/gb/moog_minitaur.htm ? Cheers, EDIT: Seems not, without an intermediate 'thing' https://www.thomann.de/gb/kenton_midi_usb_host.htm - at which point I may as well just get a keyboard synth. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Oct 23, 2017 |
# ? Oct 23, 2017 10:28 |
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Is there performance difference in MIDI Controllers between MIDI in/out and USB inputs? Been looking around for a small controller with octave control and pitch and modulation sliders, but I just need to know what to get and what works best for me.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 01:37 |
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Southern Heel posted:EDIT: Seems not, without an intermediate 'thing' https://www.thomann.de/gb/kenton_midi_usb_host.htm - at which point I may as well just get a modular synth. ftfy
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 06:15 |
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Uncle Kitchener posted:Is there performance difference in MIDI Controllers between MIDI in/out and USB inputs? Not in a serious sense. Go with whatever is easier for you. I tend to prefer DIN (5 pin) cause I'm running everything DIN anyway and USB just is an extra conversion process in the chain. If I were computer-based I'd probably feel the opposite. DIN is a bit more plug-and-play but in a way that barely ever comes up if you're computer-based.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 07:44 |
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It seems the general suggestion is to get a semi-modular synth first? Dark Energy, etc. ? I did mess around with a somewhat minimal Doepfer setup (which I've since lost the list of), but looking at the set Doepfer suggest - it seems ALOT for what is afaik usable-but-basic: https://www.thomann.de/gb/doepfer_a_100_mini_modular_system.htm I think I'd still need a keyboard? I still see a big gulf between keys and midi-information, self-oscillating/step pattern programming. I have now spent the last hour going through videos of synth playing and I think I'm in that synthwave space. Looking at pretty much whatever is out there in the mid range with full size keys. It would appear that the majority of older analogue synths can do pretty much whatever one would want (Stranger Things being in vogue, it looks like the Juno-106 is about the most modern piece of kit one could desire?) Right now I'm drooling over the Arturia Matrixbrute...
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 14:17 |
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Keep in mind there's a ton of great software synths that your piano can certainly act as the controller for, many free. And a bank of midi knobs is cheap.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:23 |
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Southern Heel posted:It seems the general suggestion is to get a semi-modular synth first? Dark Energy, etc. ? I did mess around with a somewhat minimal Doepfer setup (which I've since lost the list of), but looking at the set Doepfer suggest - it seems ALOT for what is afaik usable-but-basic: If you want keyboard + semi modular I'd recommend a micro brute. It's a good starting point. When you tire of learning all it has to offer it will easily fit into your setup and can be used to pilot or sync with other synths when you go full gear acquisition syndrome and want to own all the synths. Don't buy too much too quickly as with practice you'll learn what you like and need but a micro brute will be versatile enough that you won't regret purchasing it. SpaceGoatFarts fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Oct 24, 2017 |
# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:24 |
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The Behringer Model D is being variously marketed as a eurorack synth or a 'eurorack sized' synth. The only racks I have available at the moment are the 19" racks on my desk- can the Behringer D be made to fit in one of these?
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:24 |
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Uncle Kitchener posted:Is there performance difference in MIDI Controllers between MIDI in/out and USB inputs? Recommending the Arturia Keystep
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:31 |
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Southern Heel posted:EDIT: Seems not, without an intermediate 'thing' https://www.thomann.de/gb/kenton_midi_usb_host.htm - at which point I may as well just get a keyboard synth. For USB host -> MIDI solutions, the Keith McMIllen MIDI Expander is way cheaper than the Kenton. KMI claim it only works with their own controllers but my unit has functioned with everything simple I've tried (some Akai pads, Faderfoxes). https://www.keithmcmillen.com/products/accessories/ Or, getting one's hands dirty with some simple DIY: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/usb-host-board-v2
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:46 |
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JamesKPolk posted:Not in a serious sense. Go with whatever is easier for you. JamesKPolk posted:Not in a serious sense. Go with whatever is easier for you. I’d argue that getting a controller board with both is extremely beneficial. MIDI is a serial protocol with a transmission rate of 38,400 bits per second (4,800 bytes / second), and most messages are 3 bytes long. If you are using clock sync (sent 24x / second) and are recording something at 48kHz, that means there is a minimum of 40 samples (1 clock sync byte + 3 “note on” bytes) of latency - assuming no other delays anywhere - between when your DAW starts recording and when whatever you’re controlling finishes receiving the note on message. If you’re trying to simultaneously start two notes, the second note physically cannot begin until 30 samples after the first. If you’re using velocity, aftertouch, NRPNs for maybe filter cutoff &c... you see where this is going. USB 1.0 has a minimum transmission rate of 1,500,000 bits per second, and many controller boards have multiple MIDI out ports that are addressable over USB. It can make a huge difference in timing frustration when tracking even marginally complex sequences. Source: I used to have dozens of keyboards and synths and rack modules before USB on synths was a thing. I’ve spent probably 100s of frustrating hours tracking down MIDI timing issues. Used to have 3 of the MIDIsport 4x4 USB MIDI interfaces just to parallelize note starts and NRPNs so I didn’t have to spend hours of nudging clips around for each minute of audio just so that audible timing issues weren’t present in recordings.. and that’s when NRPNs didn’t cause timing problems with notes within the sequence... tl;dr always use USB whenever you can
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:47 |
JVNO posted:The Behringer Model D is being variously marketed as a eurorack synth or a 'eurorack sized' synth. The only racks I have available at the moment are the 19" racks on my desk- can the Behringer D be made to fit in one of these? I don't know that they'll do any specific rackmounting option for the D, but there are a number of manufacturers that make rackmount rails for Eurorack stuff, so you could mount it that way. Tiptop Happy Ending kit is one you'll run into a lot. You'll have some blank space (the D is 71hp, a U space is 84hp wide) so you'll want to fill that with other modules. Or I suppose you could just do blank panels, if you like money.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 15:50 |
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Thank you all for the advice - It's a been a bit of a whip-crack journey from 'what is a piano' to 'pls play keys in our band' so I'm still finding my feet. I think at this point I'm looking for a low-mid 61-key synth with some classic sounds. I don't want to buy disposable garbage but I do have to be careful about throwing money into a hole to burn - which is why I'm thinking about a used 80's full-size synth like a Juno, DX, etc.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 16:00 |
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keep an eye on some of the less famously named synths from that time, too. the casio czs are great (you'd want the cz-1); these people have some nice patches for the czs with examples http://czounds.com/ if i get another keyboard synth I'll probably get a yamaha sy77 you'll want at least a little reverb with whatever synth you end up with
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 16:19 |
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I'm a huge proponent of vintage boards as controllers. Cheap n cheerful range would be Alesis QS series, if you don't mind some potential troubleshooting the kurzweils are great synths and amazing controllers (and reasonable FX units). They're cheap these days but often stripped of options in the used market which might require firmware refreshing, nothing too difficult. Ensoniqs, Rolands have whole swaths of years with keybed issues to watch out for so don't buy blind.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 16:38 |
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Southern Heel posted:Thank you all for the advice - It's a been a bit of a whip-crack journey from 'what is a piano' to 'pls play keys in our band' so I'm still finding my feet. I think at this point I'm looking for a low-mid 61-key synth with some classic sounds. I don't want to buy disposable garbage but I do have to be careful about throwing money into a hole to burn - which is why I'm thinking about a used 80's full-size synth like a Juno, DX, etc. You can always buy a good smaller synth and an external keyboard
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 16:46 |
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JamesKPolk posted:Not in a serious sense. Go with whatever is easier for you. I got MIDI pic devices, but I mostly run things on PC and replay it back on hardware. Decided to go for a Alesis Q25 since it has full sized keys unlike an Akai Mini. Are USB to MIDI devices good or should I spit out big bucks for those? SpaceGoatFarts posted:Recommending the Arturia Keystep Added to my future purchase. As much as I love it's capabilities, the mini keys are just not good for me. Edit: HandlingByJebus posted:I’d argue that getting a controller board with both is extremely beneficial. MIDI is a serial protocol with a transmission rate of 38,400 bits per second (4,800 bytes / second), and most messages are 3 bytes long. If you are using clock sync (sent 24x / second) and are recording something at 48kHz, that means there is a minimum of I got one with both USB and MIDI out, so I guess it was a decent choice? VV Uncle Kitchener fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Oct 24, 2017 |
# ? Oct 24, 2017 16:55 |
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Southern Heel posted:It seems the general suggestion is to get a semi-modular synth first? Dark Energy, etc. ? I did mess around with a somewhat minimal Doepfer setup (which I've since lost the list of), but looking at the set Doepfer suggest - it seems ALOT for what is afaik usable-but-basic: semi modulars are kind of a waste of time and money if you look at it like dipping your toe into modular. they never have enough mixers to really get into the deep fun of patch cords, and the architecture is usually fixed enough to still feel limited. if you dont know what you want (but you know you dont want money) go modular MIDI isnt necessary, you can get a controller or synth that puts out CV/Gate -- transposing things is a million times easier than with MIDI since instead of note numbers you just have voltages you can add and subtract from JVNO posted:The Behringer Model D is being variously marketed as a eurorack synth or a 'eurorack sized' synth. The only racks I have available at the moment are the 19" racks on my desk- can the Behringer D be made to fit in one of these? with 13HP to spare if you get a 3U eurorack case, which even a cheap one will cost 40% of what the Behr D does (if you dont actually plan to go euro i cant recommend bothering to rack the D up in a euro case, just set it in a rack drawer or on top of the rack) AverySpecialfriend posted:You can always buy a good smaller synth and an external keyboard more like keybored
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 18:55 |
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Uncle Kitchener posted:I got MIDI pic devices, but I mostly run things on PC and replay it back on hardware. Decided to go for a Alesis Q25 since it has full sized keys unlike an Akai Mini. Late suggestion but Roland A300 Pro, more than two octaves is good. Southern Heel posted:Thank you all for the advice - It's a been a bit of a whip-crack journey from 'what is a piano' to 'pls play keys in our band' so I'm still finding my feet. I think at this point I'm looking for a low-mid 61-key synth with some classic sounds. I don't want to buy disposable garbage but I do have to be careful about throwing money into a hole to burn - which is why I'm thinking about a used 80's full-size synth like a Juno, DX, etc. Don’t get these. I had to shlep these around and I still have them and just - don’t do it. Get yourself a Nord Lead 2 or a King Korg or something and save your back and your wallet. Nord Lead 2s hold their price really well, too because they’ve bottomed out pretty much. They can sound quite 106-like minus the chorus and TC Electronic is solving that with their upcoming June-60 chorus stompbox. Also, while the controller suggestion is useful, get your piano sounds from something like a module since you’re not likely to tweak that stuff anyway. Your back will thank you again if you get a half 19” unit like a JV1010 or XV2020. Laserjet 4P fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 24, 2017 |
# ? Oct 24, 2017 20:37 |
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I like the small semi modulars if you're trying to keep a tight rig especially for battery powered jams. You get a grenadier/0coast/foo, a volca of any sort or two and a kmix or that little koma job and it'll fit in a backpack. A mess of desktop stuff isn't to everyone's tastes ofc.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 20:45 |
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Laserjet 4P posted:Late suggestion but Roland A300 Pro, more than two octaves is good. Added to future purchases. I'm not at that point yet to need all the functionalities, but I have a feeling I'll be very thankful for them later.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 20:47 |
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Uncle Kitchener posted:
In fairness they're really good minikeys, not the dogshit minikeys you see on something like a System-1.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 20:53 |
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Uncle Kitchener posted:I got MIDI pic devices, but I mostly run things on PC and replay it back on hardware. Decided to go for a Alesis Q25 since it has full sized keys unlike an Akai Mini. Tl;dr you win
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 20:59 |
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Shouts out to the goons who guided me toward getting a volca over a pocket operator. Should be arriving sometime next week.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 21:29 |
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Stan Taylor posted:Shouts out to the goons who guided me toward getting a volca over a pocket operator. Should be arriving sometime next week. Nice dude! Don't be afraid to share your bleeps and bloops. In fact that reminds me that I need to start sharing some stuff that probably only I find cool.
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# ? Oct 24, 2017 22:58 |
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Stan Taylor posted:Shouts out to the goons who guided me toward getting a volca over a pocket operator. Should be arriving sometime next week. Which one you get? Also yeah share poo poo and ask stupid Qs, I love the tiny portable boxes. Edit: in my tiny box acquisitions lately, I got a tb-03, which is not super tiny but it says Roland on the box and that’s what I like in a synth. vkeios fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Oct 25, 2017 |
# ? Oct 25, 2017 01:11 |
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Laserjet 4P posted:Don’t get these. I had to shlep these around and I still have them and just - don’t do it. Get yourself a Nord Lead 2 or a King Korg or something and save your back and your wallet. Only four Nord Lead 2's sold in the last 6mo in the UK so that might be a no-go. Similarly only two kingkorgs. I guess I need to really zero in on what I want; what questions do I need to ask myself to zero in? I know broadly about how synthesis works but I'm not sure if I want mono or poly, analogue or digital, mini or regular keys.
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 13:58 |
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Southern Heel posted:Only four Nord Lead 2's sold in the last 6mo in the UK so that might be a no-go. Similarly only two kingkorgs. I guess I need to really zero in on what I want; what questions do I need to ask myself to zero in? I know broadly about how synthesis works but I'm not sure if I want mono or poly, analogue or digital, mini or regular keys. You said you're playing 'keys' in your band, and to me that would usually connote polyphonic being necessary, and if it's polyphonic and usable, it's probably gonna be digital. If it's analog and polyphonic it's likely to be heavy or a pain in the rear end to keep in tune. Try looking for a Roland JD-Xi, they seem to make a lot of people happy and they're easy to find used because they did a pretty massive run of them. For most gigs it'll have every sound you're looking for, too. Failing that, a Microkorg is a great place to start and easy to shift if you don't like it. On the other hand, if you're doing original material and don't really know what you're looking for - gently caress it, buy anything and just gently caress around/get to know it well. If you wanna learn synthesis, the more knobs the better. An MS-20 mini is great to start with and will give you ideas of where to go when you reach your limit with it. (but don't pay RRP for it)
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 14:19 |
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Bolange posted:In fairness they're really good minikeys, not the dogshit minikeys you see on something like a System-1. No way I'm even going for a System. I used the Akai minis for a long time and my fingers need piano sized velocity keys when doing a track in real time. I always figured mini controllers with mini keys were mostly for people doing chord and triplets for basslines and one finger programming. More of a beatmaker's tool than someone wanting to do compositions in small bits. If they add some weight to mini keys, that would be nice. HandlingByJebus posted:Tl;dr you win
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 14:27 |
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vkeios posted:Which one you get? Also yeah share poo poo and ask stupid Qs, I love the tiny portable boxes. Keys. Figured that would be more versatile and also I want to ape some of that Carpenter sound.
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 15:55 |
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Was playing around with the LYRA-8, the wacky 8 oscillator FM monstrosity. This thing is a lot of fun for sure; the tuning is a bit tricky but you can make some fun textures with it. I brought it to a drone night and the thing also doubles as an earthquake generator; my headphone monitors were vibrating on my head from it. This is kinda slowcore - start with all the crazy dialed to 0 and just turn it into a mess by the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT3-GZGUNq4
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 16:35 |
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Southern Heel posted:Thank you all for the advice - It's a been a bit of a whip-crack journey from 'what is a piano' to 'pls play keys in our band' so I'm still finding my feet. I think at this point I'm looking for a low-mid 61-key synth with some classic sounds. I don't want to buy disposable garbage but I do have to be careful about throwing money into a hole to burn - which is why I'm thinking about a used 80's full-size synth like a Juno, DX, etc. If you don't mind me asking, what was your process for learning how to play keys?
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 17:59 |
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I can't really play yet, but I learned the bass clef via Hal Leonard "The Bass Method", and the treble clef via the Frederick Noad "Solo Classical Guitar". I picked up Bartok's Mikrokosmos for the first book, and a simple "classical masterworks" book when I was halfway by through. now am most of the way through Czerny's 100 pieces for the first semester or whatever. I already had a fairly good understanding of Jazz from ad hoc research, through Mark Levine's Jazz theory book and now finally some application from his Jazz Piano book.
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# ? Oct 25, 2017 22:28 |
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I just bought a Mantis from TipTop so that I can start a modular setup. A buddy is going to sell me some of his extra modules for cheap but I'm also looking at Clouds and Maths. Looking for suggestions (sadly I'm not made of money).
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 20:27 |
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he1ixx posted:I just bought a Mantis from TipTop so that I can start a modular setup. You poor fool. (or soon to be poor, at least) Maths is the best module, so good choice there. Clouds is probably the worst possible module for someone starting out, despite its overwhelming popularity. It was actually just discontinued recently, but comes up used often, so you shouldn't have much problem finding one. If you do get one, it really needs a lot of modulation, with attenuation for every input. Random sources are Clouds' friend. The second best module is Tides, so get one of those. It's good.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 20:40 |
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good jovi posted:You poor fool. (or soon to be poor, at least) Oh I should have mentioned that I found Clouds used pretty cheap. I also got a Rosie for some output options. I know my buddy has a VCF and a few other options that he wants to part with cheap so I didn't want to go much further until I got a list from him. I'm interested in your thoughts on Clouds though. I knew Mutable discontinued Braids which I was also into the idea of but I was toying with the idea of getting a uBraids as a cheaper, newer substitute. But that's down the road probably. Next steps are to see what my friend has and see if I can get a cheap decent VCO, VCA, and ADSR. It's funny because I was going to take this plunge months ago but decided to wait and boy I'm glad I did. I know so much more now than I did then but, that said, I know I'm just scratching the surface. Throw any advice you think might help my way EDIT: Tides looks rad as hell. It's now "on the list".
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 20:46 |
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Maths will cover 90-100% of what you would use an envelope generator for; when i was first getting into modular i got the tiptop ADSR and ended up never actually using it. most of what i end up needing inside the modular is attack/release; i think i'd only want the sustain stage if i were using an actual keyboard (which i don't, typically). for an inexpensive-ish VCO that is small and has a lot of functionality, check out the Twin Waves by Klavis. it's digital, but from the other modules you're looking at it sounds like you don't care.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 21:03 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 19:40 |
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my microbrute came yesterday, it is very small and fun to play
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 21:22 |