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Use your AAA membership. While it may not be an "emergency", AAA's towing is for this exact scenario - breakdowns. Could be your battery took a poo poo. Could be something else going fucky. But since the battery has been run down before, it was already on borrowed time - once a lead acid battery (the kind you have in your car) gets run down, they wind up with some damage. Basically, once a battery has been run down low enough to need a jump, you should be thanking your <whatever> every time it starts on that battery. Also, a typical car battery lasts 3-5 years. If it has the original battery, it's possible the battery is 4 years old at this point (a 2014 could be built as early as June 2013), and just finally wore out. The dealer likely does contract with a towing company, but unless you're under a bumper to bumper warranty, there's absolutely no reason to go to the dealer for this (unless you like spending 2-3x as much). It's almost guaranteed to be a battery that finally wore out. You can swap a battery yourself easily; if you're not confident enough to do so, most parts stores (the big ones anyway - Autozone, Pep Boys, O'Reillys) will install them for you. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 23, 2017 12:54
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Would a battery really go from working "fine" to absolutely unresponsive in 14 hours? There's no clicking when I try to turn the engine. I mean, I'm the one asking stupid questions and I'm not disagreeing with the advice, I'd just hate to buy a new battery and see no change when I install it.
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Oct 23, 2017 12:59
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LawfulWaffle posted:Would a battery really go from working "fine" to absolutely unresponsive in 14 hours? There's no clicking when I try to turn the engine. I mean, I'm the one asking stupid questions and I'm not disagreeing with the advice, I'd just hate to buy a new battery and see no change when I install it. Yes Take it somewhere (battery store) and get them to perform a battery test on it. Bet you a dollar it is hosed.
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Oct 23, 2017 13:20
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Try wiggling the battery terminals. The ones Jeep is using are loving awful and work loose because they're not adjustable...no way to tighten them. My negative terminal comes lose every couple of weeks, and with the ever-leaking radiator I just haven't gotten around to replacing it. But it's probably the battery.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:17
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LawfulWaffle posted:I guess a good follow up question I should ask is: Do dealerships usually have tow companies they work with? I have AAA but this isn't an emergency I'd like to call them in for. I have no way of moving my car to the dealership as is and figure they've got to have something in place for a situation like this. Sometimes batteries die and take other things with them on the way down. I had a weak battery murder-suicide the alternator long ago, and the CAA tow truck driver talked about the "Unholy Trinity" of battery, alternator, and starter - when one of those goes, it can kill one or both of the others at the same time. Your battery is dead or close to it and will cause problems. Replacing it might not completely solve your problems (there might be more than one thing going on) but it will solve at least some of them. **** Replacing my battery last weekend (add "clumsily spray PB Blaster on the bolt that's more rust than steel" to that SOP, please) helped, but my truck is still doing that slow-and-low surging and dying at stop lights thing.  What gauge of wire am I shopping for to replace my corroded negative wire? There are two black-insulated wires going to the negative terminal on my battery, one is smaller than the other. Any idea what that smaller one is for? I assume the big one is for "the whole truck" but that smaller one is for some specific accessory.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:20
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AAA will tow you anywhere within five miles for free as part of your membership. Over five miles, there's a nominal mileage fee but it's not large (a few $ per mile). They'll often drop even the extra fee if it's just a couple miles over and you're going to a repair shop. Depends on the individual tower, I guess.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:28
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LawfulWaffle posted:Would a battery really go from working "fine" to absolutely unresponsive in 14 hours? LawfulWaffle posted:The battery had died a few weeks ago The battery is hosed. Once you run a lead-acid battery down, even if you are able to jump it and recharge it enough to keep going, it is on borrowed time.
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Oct 23, 2017 17:30
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I've used AMA towing (AAA for motorcycles) to tow a car from my driveway with a flat tire because I didn't feel like loving with the spare. Abuse your roadside assistance, it's a service you pay for so you might as well make the most of it.
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Oct 23, 2017 18:56
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Revvik posted:I've used AMA towing (AAA for motorcycles) to tow a car from my driveway with a flat tire because I didn't feel like loving with the spare. Abuse your roadside assistance, it's a service you pay for so you might as well make the most of it.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:05
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Also many auto insurance policies allow you to add towing coverage for a very cheap fee. I think mine comes to like $20 a year, which is a hell of a lot better than an annual AAA membership. Make sure it fully covers what you want covered, of course.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:10
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Autoexec.bat posted:So update on the Turismo, after the suggestions failed to get it running I had a friend come over and look at it with me and we established the timing belt is off by an entire 1/3 of a turn which is why it sometimes fires if way advanced. Going to retime it from scratch some time in the next couple weeks. It had over 8 quarts of oil in it when I got it which I suspect is related (as in the last owner was an idiot). Ive drunkenly drained my transmission fluid and added 4 qts to an engine before lol i would check on the transmission too.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:15
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It is a 5 speed manual so someone would have to be really drunk to make that mistake.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:43
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Deteriorata posted:AAA will tow you anywhere within five miles for free as part of your membership. Over five miles, there's a nominal mileage fee but it's not large (a few $ per mile). They'll often drop even the extra fee if it's just a couple miles over and you're going to a repair shop. Depends on the individual tower, I guess. Depends on your membership tier and state (each state has its own AAA). The top tier for AAA Texas will tow up to 200 miles (once, then remaining tows are covered up to 100 miles) and include a free rental car for one day, mid tier is 100 miles, low tier is 7 miles. Autoexec.bat posted:It is a 5 speed manual so someone would have to be really drunk to make that mistake. You'd be surprised, especially if they weren't very good at cars (and it sounds like they weren't). Especially since some manuals use engine oil (not usually the same sump) as their fluid, so it'll look and smell just like engine oil when it drains out.
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Oct 23, 2017 23:31
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Yeah i did it on an auto sentra. But like the alternative is it sounds like he added oil twice lol. Either way..
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Oct 23, 2017 23:49
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Leperflesh posted:Also many auto insurance policies allow you to add towing coverage for a very cheap fee. I think mine comes to like $20 a year, which is a hell of a lot better than an annual AAA membership. Make sure it fully covers what you want covered, of course. gently caress Geico, they limit towing reimbursement to $60 unless you go through their app. I now have the AAA top tier.
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Oct 24, 2017 00:03
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Godholio posted:Try wiggling the battery terminals. The ones Jeep is using are loving awful and work loose because they're not adjustable...no way to tighten them. My negative terminal comes lose every couple of weeks, and with the ever-leaking radiator I just haven't gotten around to replacing it.  ...loving. Chrysler. Corporation.
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Oct 24, 2017 01:29
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Yeah, I'd never even seen non-adjustable ones before, until I started having the "Christmas tree lights" on my dash and found the solution online. Utterly ridiculous.
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Oct 24, 2017 01:37
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LawfulWaffle posted:Would a battery really go from working "fine" to absolutely unresponsive in 14 hours? There's no clicking when I try to turn the engine. I mean, I'm the one asking stupid questions and I'm not disagreeing with the advice, I'd just hate to buy a new battery and see no change when I install it. I posted in this thread at the start of September, when my car went from "everything's fine" to "just enough juice to make the starter button light up" after 36 hours in a parking garage. I hadn't had any electrical symptoms at all and the battery (and car) was barely three years old. The battery was definitely dead, with no warning. The timeline is a bit compressed for you but based on my anecdotal experience this seems completely commonplace 
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Oct 24, 2017 01:45
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Godholio posted:Yeah, I'd never even seen non-adjustable ones before, until I started having the "Christmas tree lights" on my dash and found the solution online. Utterly ridiculous. Related: My girlfriend’s YJ no longer has functional brake lights. ...And I think it’s the switch. ...Which you need stretch-Armstrong wrists to work on. 
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Oct 24, 2017 01:50
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So i have an expansion valve with a male fitting and the bulkhead connector is male. Apparently a female to female connector does not exist? The original used one but i literally cannot find that part or an adapter that would work. Its just a 90 degree female to female. I cant find a straight one or adapter either.
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Oct 24, 2017 02:07
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MrYenko posted:Related: My girlfriend’s YJ no longer has functional brake lights. Or that second joint halfway between the wrist & elbow...
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Oct 24, 2017 02:10
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Hello there. Hope I'm posting this question in the right place; I looked around AI before posting here. Short version: I need to find a used engine for my 2000 Toyota Avalon and I have no idea where to start looking. Just Googling and using the first website that came up seemed like a bad idea. Longer version: Bought a very old but well maintained Avalon two years ago. It had 230,000 miles on it but worked fine until it started pooping out white smoke whenever I cold-started it and getting noticeably weaker. I took the car in to a trusted mechanic who said the gaskets were going, the mounts were going, this and that and more were going, because it was an old, old engine. Everything else in the car was still in acceptable condition. The cost to replace all the failing parts was going to be $2600. I paid $3000 for the car, and doing the repair would still be putting new parts on an old, old engine. One option they brought up was to buy a used engine and throw that in. My other options seem to be find another used car, or try to lease a new car. I'm wanting to move from the area in the near future, so I didn't want to lease at a local dealership, and purchasing an engine seemed less expensive (?) and wouldn't involve having to deal with banks, loans, titles and registrations for a new (used) car. That being said, I don't know my rear end from my elbow when it comes to cars. I don't know what types of vendors can be trusted, or how to inspect an engine to see if its good or not. So I thought I'd post here. Is a used engine a good idea in the first place? If so, what are the ways to go about looking for one to avoid totally loving up? Mr_Peaches fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 05:19
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Godholio posted:Yeah, I'd never even seen non-adjustable ones before, until I started having the "Christmas tree lights" on my dash and found the solution online. Utterly ridiculous. I've heard about that before, and I think you must have one of these (or something similar):  If so, you tighten it with the nut closest to the post. It's very unobvious and I've run across numerous people confused about it.
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Oct 24, 2017 05:26
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That is what I have, and that nut doesn't actually tighten enough to clamp well, it just keeps it from coming completely loose.
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Oct 24, 2017 05:58
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FBS posted:I posted in this thread at the start of September, when my car went from "everything's fine" to "just enough juice to make the starter button light up" after 36 hours in a parking garage. I hadn't had any electrical symptoms at all and the battery (and car) was barely three years old. The battery was definitely dead, with no warning. The timeline is a bit compressed for you but based on my anecdotal experience this seems completely commonplace My mother's car - 2003 Toyota Avalon, brand new off of the dealer floor - had the original battery take a poo poo 3 days after buying it (and the replacement battery only lasted a couple of weeks... same with the next one the dealer supplied... she started throwing parts store batteries at it, seems to average 3-4 years per battery now). My old roommate's car - also a Toyota (2015 Corolla)... same thing. Original battery took a poo poo in a few days. Dealer replaced it, same goddamned thing in a week. Third try was the charm in his case, he's still on that battery. I've left my car parked for an hour and come back out to a completely dead car. Not even the interior lights would work. When the battery on my current car took a poo poo (original battery at that, ~10 yrs old), the car was off for less than 3 minutes. The electronics still powered up, but it didn't have enough juice to even engage the starter (). So yeah... batteries can and do die with no warning. And it's a proven fact that they will find the most inconvenient time to crap out - my last one died when I was delivering pizza, in front of a customer's house. And I learned that push starting my car (manual transmission) makes the immobilizer freak out.  BlackMK4 posted:gently caress Geico, they limit towing reimbursement to $60 unless you go through their app. I now have the AAA top tier. Wait what? I have Geico...  I don't think $60 even covers the hook fee with a lot of towing companies.I guess I need to install that loving app, then.
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Oct 24, 2017 10:15
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spog posted:Yes Might as well post your Paypal. New battery fixed it right up.
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Oct 24, 2017 12:37
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LawfulWaffle posted:Might as well post your Paypal. New battery fixed it right up. 
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Oct 24, 2017 12:44
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BlackMK4 posted:gently caress Geico, they limit towing reimbursement to $60 unless you go through their app. I now have the AAA top tier. I don’t see this anywhere in their policy contract?
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Oct 24, 2017 13:07
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Does anyone have the pic of the guy using a Miata as the roadside assistance vehicle? I think it had a banner across the windshield. Google is failing me.
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Oct 24, 2017 13:21
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So apparently female to female oring fittings dont exist. Ive talked to a couple companies and its just not a thing. But i need one or i am hosed. Does anyone know where i could have fittings fabricated? loving chrysler. E :classic auto air will duplicate fittings if you can send the original. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 15:59
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/\/\/\ Long shot, but worth a look I think: https://www.mcmaster.com/Mr_Peaches posted:That being said, I don't know my rear end from my elbow when it comes to cars. I don't know what types of vendors can be trusted, or how to inspect an engine to see if its good or not. So I thought I'd post here. Is a used engine a good idea in the first place? If so, what are the ways to go about looking for one to avoid totally loving up? Your trusted mechanic should be able to handle everything for you. I considered an engine replacement on a previous car, and my mechanic walked me through all of the options - his recommendation was "junk the car, not worth it" which is what I did, but his second choice was for him to find a replacement, bring it in and give it a thorough once-over before it goes into the car, and basically handle the entire process start to finish, for about $4000 (1996 BMW 328is,  ). If I had found an engine and brought it to him, I might have saved $1000 but he would not be able to provide any warranty because he wouldn't trust the engine.Godholio posted:That is what I have, and that nut doesn't actually tighten enough to clamp well, it just keeps it from coming completely loose.
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Oct 24, 2017 16:02
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The steering for our band's 1995 E350 is vague, frightening, and it takes a lot of effort to make sure it just goes down the road. Google Photos album of the tie-rod ends and whatnot: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Ah0rkqr8X92Mmym2 Now these are obviously in very bad shape and I'm planning on replacing them, but my Stupid Question for the Stupid Question thread is has anyone installed after-market steering damper like this one from Monroe and has it helped them at all?
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Oct 24, 2017 16:52
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I don’t see this anywhere in their policy contract? I didn't either, but I found out when I had to tow my S2000 after blowing up the clutch slave.
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Oct 24, 2017 17:19
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scuz posted:The steering for our band's 1995 E350 is vague, frightening, and it takes a lot of effort to make sure it just goes down the road. Google Photos album of the tie-rod ends and whatnot: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Ah0rkqr8X92Mmym2 I'd do the all tie rod ends and get an alignment. I wouldn't worry about the steering damper unless the steering wheel is getting knocked around a bunch when going over bumps. I'd also check the steering box for play, after you replace the tie rod ends. See if you can move the wheels back and forth without the steering wheel moving.
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Oct 24, 2017 17:54
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Does anyone have the pic of the guy using a Miata as the roadside assistance vehicle? I think it had a banner across the windshield. Google is failing me. That'd be my fault for trying to go too long on dry rotted tires, and a general dislike for changing tires in the median of one of the busiest freeways in AZ. 
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Oct 24, 2017 18:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:That'd be my fault for trying to go too long on dry rotted tires, and a general dislike for changing tires in the median of one of the busiest freeways in AZ.  THERE'S MORE THAN ONE?I've seen at least one Miata locally with "ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE" across the windshield (die cut vinyl). It was also a white NA. No sign on the doors.
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Oct 24, 2017 21:56
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ExecuDork posted:Your trusted mechanic should be able to handle everything for you. I considered an engine replacement on a previous car, and my mechanic walked me through all of the options - his recommendation was "junk the car, not worth it" which is what I did, but his second choice was for him to find a replacement, bring it in and give it a thorough once-over before it goes into the car, and basically handle the entire process start to finish, for about $4000 (1996 BMW 328is, Thanks ExecuDork, I'll give them a call tomorrow. 
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Oct 25, 2017 03:08
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
What other job would pay you to drive around in a Miata, bust out your al-you-minium Hazard Fraught floor jack and Earthquake lithium ion rattlegun, and change out tires for money?
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Oct 25, 2017 04:01
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... fair point, but I'd figure "roadside rescue" would also be carrying some basic tools, a booster pack, a compressor, a gas can... I guess if you're gonna be carrying a used gas can in the trunk, a convertible is pretty ideal.. at least that way you're not choking on the fumes. I remember awhile back Allstate was running radio ads hiring people to handle basic service calls (on-call, but I don't remember if they were W2 or 1099). Wonder what happened with that program.. e: huh, it's still around. Some postings on the uberpeople.net forums suggest the providers get a whopping $17 per call-out, with an extra $8 for fuel calls, though at least Allstate provides a jack and jump pack. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 25, 2017 06:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:What other job would pay you to drive around in a Miata, bust out your al-you-minium Hazard Fraught floor jack and Earthquake lithium ion rattlegun, and change out tires for money? AvE subscriber spotted
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Oct 25, 2017 09:09
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