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Just bought this guy: 1996 NA8 with 129,000 on the clock. The best part is there is zero rust. Lived most of its life in Florida. Recently refreshed to get running. Interior and paint have seen better days. What things should I check right away? Any vulnerability I should know about? I mostly want to get it reliable... for now.
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Oct 23, 2017 12:53
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Heater hoses, timing belt, radiator, plugs and wires.
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Oct 23, 2017 14:51
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The fenders are like leaf traps, you can unscrew the bottom two or three bolts on them and lift them away from the body and see all the debris that falls out.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Heater hoses, timing belt, radiator, plugs and wires. And rebuild the shifter (and fill the turret).
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Oct 23, 2017 15:58
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Blaise posted:And rebuild the shifter (and fill the turret). And replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. It's only $25 for both of them.
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Oct 23, 2017 18:24
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Anyone with an ND want these sweet floor covers for $100? They are these: https://www.carbonmiata.com/shop/mazda-mx-5/floor-mats-quilted-design-3/   I just put a set in my NA and they look amazing.
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Oct 24, 2017 00:46
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Is there an AI-approved method for repairing the stitching around an NB glass rear window cloth top? Mine is separating the stitching along the top, I think because I've been driving around a lot with the top up and the windows down. Most of the solutions I've read online basically amount to using some sort of glue, tape or sealant to reconnect the thin fabric lining around the window with the rest of the cloth top, and then resewing that sealed part with a thin awl and some strong thread. The products recommended are always different, though. I've contacted all the convertible repair places in my area (Sarasota) and no one will repair it, they will only consider replacement, and gently caress that noise. This is the method I like the best so far: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=391449 Any advice would be appreciated. It doesn't need to be a very long-term solution, because I'll be selling the NB soon.
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Oct 27, 2017 00:35
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Filthy Hans posted:Is there an AI-approved method for repairing the stitching around an NB glass rear window cloth top? Mine is separating the stitching along the top, I think because I've been driving around a lot with the top up and the windows down. Most of the solutions I've read online basically amount to using some sort of glue, tape or sealant to reconnect the thin fabric lining around the window with the rest of the cloth top, and then resewing that sealed part with a thin awl and some strong thread. The products recommended are always different, though. I've contacted all the convertible repair places in my area (Sarasota) and no one will repair it, they will only consider replacement, and gently caress that noise. I put some construction staples into mine and used needle nose pliers to push the barbs down flat. It sounds pretty ghetto but worked surprisingly well.   Holds water! 
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Oct 27, 2017 04:15
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Filthy Hans posted:Is there an AI-approved method for repairing the stitching around an NB glass rear window cloth top? Mine is separating the stitching along the top, I think because I've been driving around a lot with the top up and the windows down. Most of the solutions I've read online basically amount to using some sort of glue, tape or sealant to reconnect the thin fabric lining around the window with the rest of the cloth top, and then resewing that sealed part with a thin awl and some strong thread. The products recommended are always different, though. I've contacted all the convertible repair places in my area (Sarasota) and no one will repair it, they will only consider replacement, and gently caress that noise. I tried repairing it 3 times over with various glues... I ended up just putting a top on it. They're so cheap it wasn't worth the pain. Just my experience (NA plastic window).
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Oct 27, 2017 16:41
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 6, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2017 02:59
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Winter tires or summer tires? Winter tires I wouldn't give it a second thought, summer tires makes it odd. My thought if it was summer tires was it getting driven hard enough to crack alloys and then getting dumped after who knows what stress on the drivetrain. Steel winter wheels are a pretty common thing to not ruin your performance wheels and you're not trying to performance drive in the winter so the cheapest option usually makes sense.
craig588 fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 28, 2017 |
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Oct 28, 2017 03:27
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craig588 posted:Winter tires or summer tires? Winter tires I wouldn't give it a second thought, summer tires makes it odd. My thought if it was summer tires was it getting driven hard enough to crack alloys and then getting dumped after who knows what stress on the drivetrain. Steel winter wheels are a pretty common thing to not ruin your performance wheels and you're not trying to performance drive in the winter so the cheapest option usually makes sense.
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Oct 28, 2017 04:25
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Well obviously there's the rust problem, but if it's not rusty I wouldn't worry about it. If you have some rust then you probably want alloys because steel wheels are going to make someone check more carefully for it and be suspicious of more that they can't find. I see a lot of Miatas with winter steel wheels though.
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Oct 28, 2017 05:42
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sirr0bin posted:And replace the clutch slave and master cylinders. It's only $25 for both of them. Holy crap, I've been stressing about the poor state of my slave cylinder and lines ever since I pulled the engine, I had no idea it was so cheap!
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Oct 28, 2017 14:50
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They're both super cheap and very easy to swap.
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Oct 28, 2017 14:52
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I just put on my winter wheels: gently caress steelies!
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Oct 28, 2017 21:13
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Got mine ready for winter too. Don't worry I'll actually be working on it using all the suggestions above.
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Oct 28, 2017 21:40
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Shai-Hulud posted:I just put on my winter wheels: Pants are tightening
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Oct 28, 2017 21:49
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Horsepower? Where we're going we don't need Horsepower. 
SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Oct 30, 2017 |
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Oct 30, 2017 01:38
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When this baby hits 88 miles per hour... actually, make sure you find a train to push you up to speed.
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Oct 30, 2017 16:06
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mobby_6kl posted:When this baby hits 88 miles per hour... You're going to see some serious poo poo. Fixed
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Oct 30, 2017 16:14
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What would be the most likely cause of a power drop between 2000 and 3000 rpm? I've noticed a few times driving lately that there seems to be a slight dip in power right around there as I accelerate and then it drives as normal. Today there was a serious blip and what could possibly be described at sputtering as I was pulling out of my parking garage and then normal driving after that. 94m manual with 140k miles.
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Oct 31, 2017 23:41
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Timing and temperature? I once got a car that was 18 degrees advanced and it seemed to fall down in that middle range but only while warm.
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Oct 31, 2017 23:56
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Well I'm not exactly sure what the timing is, it was stock and then I had to take off the Crank Angle Sensor. I tried to put it back exactly in the orientation it was in (i made some marks but they werent as clear as they should have been. The weather was about 50 today.
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Nov 1, 2017 00:33
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Greetings gays. As the proud lesbian owner of two and a half Subarus, one of which is kind of fast, I've decided I want to try some track stuff and my initial plan of getting an STI is a bit steep of an investment, and I'll probably learn a lot more with an underpowered light RWD car. So I'll stray to the other side of the  aisle and try a Miata. It's amazing to me that all other light rwd cars have skyrocketed in value but Miatas are still very affordable.Anyway, what's a good place to start reading about them? NA a good generation? I see a ton of them around for not much money. Big things to avoid? I have a full compliment of tools and a lift at my disposal. Also, what other gay cars should I buy?
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Nov 1, 2017 15:51
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i own every Bionicle posted:Greetings gays. As the proud lesbian owner of two and a half Subarus, one of which is kind of fast, I've decided I want to try some track stuff and my initial plan of getting an STI is a bit steep of an investment, and I'll probably learn a lot more with an underpowered light RWD car. So I'll stray to the other side of the Buy my car. (I'm serious)
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Nov 1, 2017 15:56
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Phone posted:Buy my car. (I'm serious) Me too. (Very serious)
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Nov 1, 2017 16:21
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Ok send me CL ads or something you dorks
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Nov 1, 2017 17:25
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i own every Bionicle posted:Ok send me CL ads or something you dorks I have it on my computer at home. Short list: - 1994 A package car - OE hardtop - NB2 motor swap w/ RB header and EUDM intake - Fatcat Motorsports coilovers (Bilsteins valved to 600#/375#) - RB tubular front bar - 1.6L dash - TSE 11.75" BBK (Wilwood Dynalite calipers) - 4.1 Torsen rear - Hard Dog Single Diagonal bar Comes with a shitload of goodies such as: - Sadfab delrin bushings - 6 speed - Mazdaspeed rear bar (14mm) - MSLabs Megasquirt 3 basic - a bunch of new parts (like front damper/pulley) - a bunch of old parts (original cat, the VTCS manifold) - a Kia Sportage 4x4 front diff (4.77 ring and pinion) The car runs, but it is a project car.
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Nov 1, 2017 17:37
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His car is almost the car I'd build with unlimited time to build cars. The only thing I'd have done differently is aftermarket connecting rods.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:07
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i own every Bionicle posted:Greetings gays. As the proud lesbian owner of two and a half Subarus, one of which is kind of fast, I've decided I want to try some track stuff and my initial plan of getting an STI is a bit steep of an investment, and I'll probably learn a lot more with an underpowered light RWD car. So I'll stray to the other side of the What are your current Subies and why are they not eligible for the first few track days you do?
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Nov 1, 2017 19:09
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i own every Bionicle posted:Ok send me CL ads or something you dorks It's 1999 Miata, 5-speed and white. It's got 175k miles and it's basically stock all the way around. I have added an aftermarket stereo and bigger door speakers. The top is functional, but should probably be replaced soon. It's been super reliable, even serving as a daily driver for about a year. Located in Charlotte, NC. edit: Sold. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Nov 1, 2017 19:46
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i own every Bionicle posted:Greetings gays. As the proud lesbian owner of two and a half Subarus, one of which is kind of fast, I've decided I want to try some track stuff and my initial plan of getting an STI is a bit steep of an investment, and I'll probably learn a lot more with an underpowered light RWD car. So I'll stray to the other side of the How tall are you? If you're under 6', pretty much any track-prepped 89-05 miata is good to go. Things you need: Roll-over protection with SFI padding Race Seat (braced if not FIA rated), bonus points if buying car with halo seat 6-pt harness WITH CORRECT HARNESS ANGLES (I had a very hard time with my Blackbird SD bar to get a zero or negative shoulder harness angle) Helmet (duh), HANS possibly a removable wheel depending on your height Good to have: Good brake pads Good Tires and wheels (15x8 usually) Good alignment Good suspension Torsen LSD (Standard on 94+) Should cost $5k or less. Stay away from forced induction or other such things. Blaise fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 1, 2017 19:53
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I'd say find whatever local racing groups are around and inquire about Spec Miatas for sale - non-Nationals-level cars are often in the 5k range, and are by definition already prepped to a basic level, will have a ready knowledge base on suspension settings, and will probably have OK resale value compared to something that is prepped to "random trackday mods" spec.
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Nov 1, 2017 20:24
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'd say find whatever local racing groups are around and inquire about Spec Miatas for sale - non-Nationals-level cars are often in the 5k range, and are by definition already prepped to a basic level, will have a ready knowledge base on suspension settings, and will probably have OK resale value compared to something that is prepped to "random trackday mods" spec. Dunno about 'often,' I've been trying to find one and the lowest-spec ones I can find are around 6k. There's also the risky prospect of having to resell a race-only vehicle, whereas a 'random trackday mod' car can be sold to the local bro crowd pretty easily as well. Oh yeah, don't buy one with a bolt-in cage. That's been a feature that I've found to be quite common in Sub $8k builds.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:00
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Blaise posted:Dunno about 'often,' I've been trying to find one and the lowest-spec ones I can find are around 6k. There's also the risky prospect of having to resell a race-only vehicle, whereas a 'random trackday mod' car can be sold to the local bro crowd pretty easily as well. There's people that parked NAs. Have to get to where you're asking around. Maybe I'm spoiled by being near one of the major builders though.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:09
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Blaise posted:How tall are you? This is not a bad list, but I'd be surprised to see 15x8's these days - everyone is running 15x9's or larger around here. Super bonus points if you find one with xidas already, that's what you really want suspension wise.
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Nov 2, 2017 01:45
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Put decent tires on it, good brake pads and have fun. The other non-safety stuff won't really be appreciated until you have some experience. 15x8 with a 205 street tire like the Star Spec II or similar is good. For brake pads Hawk HT-10s are what I use. Don't buy a car that doesn't have a LSD, although with a lift the swap isn't really that hard. FatCow fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 02:02
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TrueChaos posted:This is not a bad list, but I'd be surprised to see 15x8's these days - everyone is running 15x9's or larger around here. 15x9 is for 225s which is really for a higher power car. More options in 205/50 as well and opens up more race-take-off tires as well. I was assuming stock power levels. It also requires running a coilover setup to clear. Agreed on the xida super-bonus-point.
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Nov 2, 2017 15:04
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Thanks for all the help guys. My current cars are a Legacy GT wagon with a built motor and VF 52 and an 09 OBS as a winter beater. The LGT is a great daily/sleeper that is fun on back roads and road trips. It's also pretty clean and is making enough power for me to worry about the transmission if I really beat on it, and the brakes will probably cook after a couple laps. All in all it's perfect for what I built it for which is a quick, fun, and mature daily, and if I want a track car I want to flog it mercilessly. So it really just makes a lot more sense to get something that I'm not afraid to abuse that cost less than just the motor did on my Legacy. It also helps that two of my friends have track Miatas and another one is threatening to buy one. I also have everything I need to weld in (or even build) a cage at my disposal. I'd love to have the car still be driveable on the street and I'd like to get into it for about 5k. Is that reasonable? Is it advisable to get a 2-3k example with ~150,000 on it and put in a cage and upgrade the brakes myself? My goal with this car would not be to be competitive in anything really, just to have fun and learn how to drive well. I'm in NH FWIW. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 15:38
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