Ilor posted:

Generally, yes.

stabbington posted:

You're certainly headed in the right direction. In terms of materials problems, you've got a little bit of chalkiness happening, but the majority of the problem that I see is actually paint tearing, especially on the legs. That happens when you try to paint over a layer that's set up but isn't completely dry yet, so you should either be working faster and wet-blending, or slow it down and stick to the layered approach you're using now. The poster that recommended a handle of some sort to mount your model on is also dead on, that'll help you reduce the paint that rubs off as you handle the thing, and give you better control of how you hold it in general. If you use a pill bottle for a handle, I recommend filling it halfway with some sort of weight (coins, sand, whatever dense thing you happen to have lying around) to keep it bottom-heavy and less likely to tip over at the drop of a hat.

In terms of the actual execution of the NMM, the biggest issue that I'm seeing is that your bright highlights are a little too big, and your shadows aren't dark enough to make the highlights really pop. I really like this Ben Komets video on non-metallic gold as a pretty easy to understand visual reference for what I'm talking about here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VepXVggrfiE

As I said, though, you're off to a good start, and some more work put into it will absolutely yield a pleasing result.

Zuul the Cat posted:

Cross posting my finished Land Raider.


I feel like it may be a little too dull.

Stephenls posted:

Radical suggestion for the treads: Paint them brown, then wash them a darker brown, then drybrush them metallic silver. That will look more like treads with dirt in them than just going overtop the silver with a brown, because dirt gets stuck in crevices but falls off the most prominent parts of the surface.

Stephenls posted:

I made a thing and maybe it'll be useful to some people:



Top row, all Citadel left to right: Agrellan Badland, Armageddon Dunes, Agrellan Earth, Lustrian Undergrowth, and Typhus Corrosion.
Bottom row, all Vallejo, left to right: Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt, Rough White Pumice, Desert Sand, and White Stone Paste.

Bases are Reaper Bones 1” bases. Paint is Vallejo Surface Primer German Panzer Grey all over, then UNS Light Ghost Grey applied at an angle from the front (bottom in this image), then White applies at a much sharper angle also from the front. Observation: Vallejo Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt and Rough White Pumice are identical (actually snow might just be very very similar), and are very similar to albeit slightly more jagged than Lustrian Undergrowth (uh... I think Lustrian Undergrowth has the same sized particles suspended in a paint that dries thicker, creating gentler texture?). All other textures are visually distinct and could serve different purposes.

If I had to recommend just one, I'd say Agrellan Badland is the most versatile, since it seems to have textures of different size mixed in, plus the crackle medium that can be manipulated -- cracks form with a thick layer but not a thin one. It's also identical to Martian Ironearth, save for the color which is not a factor here.

(I figure I'll let 'em dry for a couple of days, hit them with a layer of matte varnish, let that dry, then superglue them into a grid or hexagonal pattern, just so I can have a basing texture palette. I've put little labels on the bottom with the paint types.)

Stephenls posted:

I made a thing and maybe it'll be useful to some people:



Top row, all Citadel left to right: Agrellan Badland, Armageddon Dunes, Agrellan Earth, Lustrian Undergrowth, and Typhus Corrosion.
Bottom row, all Vallejo, left to right: Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt, Rough White Pumice, Desert Sand, and White Stone Paste.

Bases are Reaper Bones 1” bases. Paint is Vallejo Surface Primer German Panzer Grey all over, then UNS Light Ghost Grey applied at an angle from the front (bottom in this image), then White applies at a much sharper angle also from the front. Observation: Vallejo Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt and Rough White Pumice are identical (actually snow might just be very very similar), and are very similar to albeit slightly more jagged than Lustrian Undergrowth (uh... I think Lustrian Undergrowth has the same sized particles suspended in a paint that dries thicker, creating gentler texture?). All other textures are visually distinct and could serve different purposes.

If I had to recommend just one, I'd say Agrellan Badland is the most versatile, since it seems to have textures of different size mixed in, plus the crackle medium that can be manipulated -- cracks form with a thick layer but not a thin one. It's also identical to Martian Ironearth, save for the color which is not a factor here.

(I figure I'll let 'em dry for a couple of days, hit them with a layer of matte varnish, let that dry, then superglue them into a grid or hexagonal pattern, just so I can have a basing texture palette. I've put little labels on the bottom with the paint types.)

Booyah- posted:

These are super useful! I'll definitely be referring to it later.

I currently use Stirland Mud, which seems to be the same as Armageddon Dust and is just very fine beads/sand without any larger structure. I like them but feel the need to add grass tufts and little rocks for variety.

Booyah- posted:

Actually do you have a higher res version of that where the texture is more visible?

Bachtere posted:

Stephenls posted:

I made a thing and maybe it'll be useful to some people:



Top row, all Citadel left to right: Agrellan Badland, Armageddon Dunes, Agrellan Earth, Lustrian Undergrowth, and Typhus Corrosion.
Bottom row, all Vallejo, left to right: Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt, Rough White Pumice, Desert Sand, and White Stone Paste.

Bases are Reaper Bones 1” bases. Paint is Vallejo Surface Primer German Panzer Grey all over, then UNS Light Ghost Grey applied at an angle from the front (bottom in this image), then White applies at a much sharper angle also from the front. Observation: Vallejo Snow, Black Lava/Asphalt and Rough White Pumice are identical (actually snow might just be very very similar), and are very similar to albeit slightly more jagged than Lustrian Undergrowth (uh... I think Lustrian Undergrowth has the same sized particles suspended in a paint that dries thicker, creating gentler texture?). All other textures are visually distinct and could serve different purposes.

If I had to recommend just one, I'd say Agrellan Badland is the most versatile, since it seems to have textures of different size mixed in, plus the crackle medium that can be manipulated -- cracks form with a thick layer but not a thin one. It's also identical to Martian Ironearth, save for the color which is not a factor here.

(I figure I'll let 'em dry for a couple of days, hit them with a layer of matte varnish, let that dry, then superglue them into a grid or hexagonal pattern, just so I can have a basing texture palette. I've put little labels on the bottom with the paint types.)

TTerrible posted:

Surprised to see Typhus Corrosion on that comparison, isn't it just verdigris?

Also, good to see Bachtere back.

TTerrible posted:

Surprised to see Typhus Corrosion on that comparison, isn't it just verdigris?

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

That's Nihilakh Oxide. Typhus Corrosion is the brown oily/grimy stuff, and it has a slight gritty texture. It's not really a texture paint in the same sense as the rest though, you're right.

BULBASAUR posted:

I have to say that the Agrellan Earth is identical to cheaper crackling pastes, so if you plan to use it a lot, I'd skip the GW version.

Dr. Gargunza posted:

Oath Complete!






Claiming the Jurnal for spooOOOooky vampires! (Full album is here.)

Quidthulhu posted:

Got me a lightbox! I am still not great at using it.

Also got me some Plague Marines painted:











And in even smaller than above, my buddies & I are playing a "Pathfinder in the Wild West" campaign and I volunteered to paint any minis people provided. My buddy brought the Gunslinger first and I put him together:





I think I am spraying my matte finish too close to the minis because these all look like gloss.

Wazzu posted:

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/13/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

Or the less technical more angry version:

Zuul the Cat posted:

Cross posting my finished Land Raider.


I feel like it may be a little too dull.

Chiwie posted:

I just got mine in the mail as well! It seems to make a huge difference in getting good indoor shots. Speaking of that


Cheers for this! Hopefully I can take less shithouse photos for the oath thread now.

Bachtere posted:

Quidthulhu posted:

Your poo poo is top notch and I am jealous Really excellent, is there a prize involved with the parade this weekend?

Quidthulhu posted:

More on camera talk, does anyone have a particular starter level DSLR they enjoy using to document their minis

Wazzu posted:

To build from that- your lamps seem a bit too dull, might want brighter ones, or just closer to the lightbox- still such heavy shadows.

Chiwie posted:

Yeah I really need to replace the LED strip that it came with, the stock ones are really really blue. Do you have any suggestions on a replacement strip? I'm a little lost with all the colour temp options.