|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Rubbing alcohol here is typically ethanol-based with MEK and bitterant added to make it lethally undrinkable. The other common alcohol is denatured, which is also mostly ethanol, with methanol added. I'm a bit confused by that last sentence, because it makes you sound like you're in the US. I'm not sure that I've ever seen anything labeled as rubbing alcohol being sold in the States that wasn't 70% to 90-something% isopropyl. Wikipedia says the ATF mandates "rubbing alcohols" contain acetone, MEK, and ethyl alcohol, but I'll be damned if I've ever seen anything like that being sold in a pharmacy or grocery store. Maybe if you're buying it at a paint supply shop or something?
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 04:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 13:48 |
|
|
Jazzzzz posted:I'm a bit confused by that last sentence, because it makes you sound like you're in the US. I'm not sure that I've ever seen anything labeled as rubbing alcohol being sold in the States that wasn't 70% to 90-something% isopropyl. Wikipedia says the ATF mandates "rubbing alcohols" contain acetone, MEK, and ethyl alcohol, but I'll be damned if I've ever seen anything like that being sold in a pharmacy or grocery store. Maybe if you're buying it at a paint supply shop or something? Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc. If I'm gonna be brimming a tank, then I'm buying a gallon can of the stuff for $5, not the pints at Walgreen's for $3 each.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 10:59
|
|
|
This whole experiment doesn't make a ton of sense in the US since gas is at or under $3/gallon. Cheaper and/or easier to just fill the tank with gas and add a few ounces of stabilizer or sea foam. Plus it won't gently caress your paint if you spill it or potentially mess up a plastic tank (thank you, Euro bikes).
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 14:06
|
|
|
Anything premium at the pump without ethanol? Run it close to dry, brim it with that, don't sweat the rest.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 14:29
|
|
|
How long does DOT 4 brake fluid keep? Front reservoir is kissing the minimum level line and I need a small top up. A pint of fluid is literally cheap as chips but I don't want to be wasting 80% of the bottle from it going bad on a shelf if I can help it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 14:33
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:How long does DOT 4 brake fluid keep? Front reservoir is kissing the minimum level line and I need a small top up. A pint of fluid is literally cheap as chips but I don't want to be wasting 80% of the bottle from it going bad on a shelf if I can help it. I don't know how long, but I've always tried to finish mine. Have used bottles over 2+ years, no change in how it looks or brakes. As long as the lid is tight, it isn't going to suddenly absorb a dangerous amount of water when you use it next year.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 14:44
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:How long does DOT 4 brake fluid keep? Front reservoir is kissing the minimum level line and I need a small top up. A pint of fluid is literally cheap as chips but I don't want to be wasting 80% of the bottle from it going bad on a shelf if I can help it. Just flush your whole system and then you won't have to worry about it again for a while.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 16:55
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:How long does DOT 4 brake fluid keep? Front reservoir is kissing the minimum level line and I need a small top up. A pint of fluid is literally cheap as chips but I don't want to be wasting 80% of the bottle from it going bad on a shelf if I can help it. you'd be wasting the bottle if you just top up, it doesn't keep very long at all. Just flush the system like Mr. Littlefinger there says
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
It's hard to say exactly how much performance loss you would have from using an old bottle, but my attitude has always been that having the brake system work correctly is worth wasting 2 bucks worth of brake fluid.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2017 02:48
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:How long does DOT 4 brake fluid keep? Front reservoir is kissing the minimum level line and I need a small top up. A pint of fluid is literally cheap as chips but I don't want to be wasting 80% of the bottle from it going bad on a shelf if I can help it. Have you looked at your pads? I’m gonna go out on a limb you’re getting near needing a replacement. You should really never need to top off brake fluid. Additionally, you have the headache of fluid overflowing when you put new pads in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2017 07:05
|
|
|
n8r posted:Have you looked at your pads? I’m gonna go out on a limb you’re getting near needing a replacement. You should really never need to top off brake fluid. Additionally, you have the headache of fluid overflowing when you put new pads in. Yeah, "just topping off" brake fluid isn't something that should ever happen without investigating why there's suddenly less fluid in the system than there was.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2017 10:06
|
|
|
I'll take a look. I know it's super subjective and heavily dependent on braking style, but what kind of lifetime do you all get out of your front pads?
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2017 10:21
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:I'll take a look. I know it's super subjective and heavily dependent on braking style, but what kind of lifetime do you all get out of your front pads? Personally I find a not-bad rule of thumb is to swap them when you replace the front tyre - they're possibly good for two or maybe even three tyres worth of use depending on what front tyre you're using, but I've generally found they last me about halfway through the second tyre's life so why not do it all in one go? Likw you say though it's massively subjective (and the OE pads on the Monster seem to be made out of reinforced concrete because they've barely worn at all in the 5k miles it's taken me to wear out (alright square off) the front, so I won't be swapping them out this time)
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2017 12:22
|
|
|
I put a larger tank on my DRZ400. This required a longer fuel line, and the position of the petcock is lower than stock now. Fuel is flowing to the carburetor because I can get it to run, but it is leeeeean as gently caress. Ran great with the stock tank. What is going on?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 02:31
|
|
|
petcock vacuum line?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 02:45
|
|
|
Gas cap not venting?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
Razzled posted:petcock vacuum line? That'd be my guess. Do DRZ's have vacuum petcocks? I can't remember. Either that or pipe/tank geometry means the float bowl can't fill fully anymore.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 06:46
|
|
|
Bought a new battery something like 6 to 8 weeks ago, then left my key in the on position since Saturday, so the battery is completely dead. Worth putting it on a tender, or just buy a new battery?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
Do you have a multimeter? If you measure it and it's down at 0 volts it is dead dead. You may be able to recharge it somewhat but the battery is probably damaged. If it's only down to like 6v though I have had batteries come back from that point as long as they didn't sit there for too long.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:36
|
|
|
i do this more often than i'd like because the tuono doesn't run the fan while it's off, sometimes i forget to come back and cut it off. overnight is usually just down to ~7.5 V though, so I just charge it back up. like sage said just check the voltages and charge it if it's got a reading
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:38
|
|
|
I do have a voltmeter, but if it's definitely damaged I may just get a new battery. FWIW, my bike is very sensitive to voltage which means the second the battery gets below a certain capacity, it just instantly stops starting, with no hesitation starting the last time it worked. Maybe that's more common on modern bikes with EFI than I realized, but I just blame the British electronics. I'll check the voltage today and see if it's something like 10v, but I kind of figured a new battery would be happening. I keep on leaving my key in my bike accidentally recently, but at least it's always been in the off position until now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:43
|
|
|
Razzled posted:i do this more often than i'd like because the tuono doesn't run the fan while it's off, sometimes i forget to come back and cut it off. overnight is usually just down to ~7.5 V though, so I just charge it back up. like sage said just check the voltages and charge it if it's got a reading Why do you want the fan running after the engine is off?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:06
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:Why do you want the fan running after the engine is off? because in most days of hot atlanta traffic, my bike is idling at 100C
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:54
|
|
|
Without the water pump spinning and circulating the coolant out of the hot engine through the radiators, the fan won't really be effective. It will just cool what's sitting in the radiators. Obviously the solution is to get an air-cooled bike that runs its fan after you turn it off as factory ECM programming.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:06
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Without the water pump spinning and circulating the coolant out of the hot engine through the radiators, the fan won't really be effective. It will just cool what's sitting in the radiators. Heat will still convect and conduct into the place where it's coolest, so it does cool. Not as effective, but then again the engine is not adding more heat either.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:11
|
|
|
Comedy turbo timer option.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:13
|
|
|
Razzled posted:because in most days of hot atlanta traffic, my bike is idling at 100C That's right about where it's supposed to be, even if leaving the fan on made a measurable difference in how quickly the engine cooled down (it doesn't, unless you start the engine again to circulate water) it's better to let hot things that are supposed to be hot cool down slowly anyways.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:33
|
|
|
I can’t imagine running the fan does anything to help. The engine isn’t getting any hotter. It’s only cooling down after you stop the engine. If it’s cool enough to not explode while it’s running, it’s only getting better while it sits.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:54
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:I can’t imagine running the fan does anything to help. The engine isn’t getting any hotter. It’s only cooling down after you stop the engine. ya i mean it's just a minor thing i'm kind of paranoid about. it's probably due for a coolant change at this point. think the last one was right on 5 years ago
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:58
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:I can’t imagine running the fan does anything to help. The engine isn’t getting any hotter. It’s only cooling down after you stop the engine. Yeah this is dumb and totally unnecessary.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 21:10
|
|
|
The fan running while the engine is off doesn't cool by any considerable amount because coolant has stopped cycling heat. Your engine will also rise in temps briefly before cooling when it is shut off for the same reason. Edit: Riding at speed to generate airflow to help drop temps is the best way to cool a bike before shutting it off. tjones fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:01
|
|
|
Trip report: checked my battery version with a MULTIMETER, it reported 0.2v. This is my new replacement harbor freight multimeter that I haven't used on anything yet so maybe it's messed up, but I took that to mean time for a new battery. My last HF multimeter never even died, I just lost it in a move and they gave me a free one at HF so I haven't wanted to look for the old one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:45
|
|
|
Check voltage on a known good battery (9volt will work if you don't have a car) to verify meter functionality. Sounds like your battery's toast though 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:21
|
|
|
The ninja 250's fan will stay on when you turn the key off, if the needle is over 75% of the heat range. The obvious solution, however, is to turn the engine off 1 half-mile from home, coasting and paddling into your driveway. I've heard of a guy who undid the access cap to the crankshaft bolt en route and then coasting this way while bent over and rapidly turning a ratchet on it, but maybe that's going overboard, maybe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 02:14
|
|
|
There's nothing wrong with the fan staying on after you flip the key off; Kawasakis at least do it because the fan is connected directly to the battery via a fuse and temperature switch, so it stays on until the sensor cools down enough regardless of whether the keys are in. But also there's no particular need for it to do that. It doesn't matter either way, but direct wiring keeps things simple and ensures the fan is unlikely to catch any electrical gremlins. Also while I'm here I have a question about fuel hoses. I'm thinking of replacing mine; do I need new clips as well? It's basically a bit of wire, I can't see how it'd perish. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Nov 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 02:29
|
|
|
There's a Right Kind of clamp to use that you crimp on and need to replace and should upgrade to if you can. I use the removable "death wish" kind.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 02:37
|
|
|
Pictures would be helpful.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 02:58
|
|
|
 But just reuse those wire ones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 04:25
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 07:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 13:48 |
|
|
Coydog posted:
Bah, FAG berings make the highest MTBF quality cock rings
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 07:31
|
|
