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ErikTheRed
Mar 12, 2007

My name is Deckard Cain and I've come on out to greet ya, so sit your ass and listen or I'm gonna have to beat ya.
What's my best bet for doing a CPU+Mobo+RAM upgrade for around $500? Mostly for games, but some programming stuff in the mix too (Java, Docker).

My GTX 980 is still handling most stuff at 1440P just fine, it feels like my i5 4590 is starting to be a little bit of a bottleneck though.

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TacticalHoodie
May 7, 2007

Is it worth going to a 1070 now with a gsnyc monitor for 1440p 144hz or should I wait for Volta to come out and save my pennies for that? I have a 1060 6GB and it is playing what I play now really well at the moment but I am looking to get a more powerful graphic cards because I did not see that the monitor I bought is native 1440p than 1080p.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

ErikTheRed posted:

What's my best bet for doing a CPU+Mobo+RAM upgrade for around $500? Mostly for games, but some programming stuff in the mix too (Java, Docker).

My GTX 980 is still handling most stuff at 1440P just fine, it feels like my i5 4590 is starting to be a little bit of a bottleneck though.

Probably the i5-8400.

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
Is there such a thing as Z270 compatible DDR 4? Just purchased this on sale on Newegg:

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16820232090

G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z270 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16S-16GVK

I thought all DDR4 are compatible with any CPU and MB that supports them. Am I correct in assuming this is just a dumb product name inclusion? I have a Z370 MB.

Also what’s with all the dumb manufacturer names? You’re making computer hardware targeted at young males and you name your company “rear end Rock” really?

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Nov 3, 2017

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

Are the included fans on the Corsair H100i V2 loud? If I wanted the quietest case possible, would it make sense to change these to something else or is the difference negligible?

Also, the case that I'm looking at the Corsair Obsidian 250D, seems to support a 200m fan in the front. Would it be beneficial to upgrade it to a 200mm fan, or should I stick with the stock included 140mm?

anthonypants
May 6, 2007

by Nyc_Tattoo
Dinosaur Gum

obi_ant posted:

Are the included fans on the Corsair H100i V2 loud? If I wanted the quietest case possible, would it make sense to change these to something else or is the difference negligible?

Also, the case that I'm looking at the Corsair Obsidian 250D, seems to support a 200m fan in the front. Would it be beneficial to upgrade it to a 200mm fan, or should I stick with the stock included 140mm?
I have an H100i V2, and one of the fans got loose or something and it would get loud whenever I'd start a video game. I replaced both fans with two Noctua NF-F12s and it's been completely silent ever since.

crazypenguin
Mar 9, 2005
nothing witty here, move along
Motherboard question for an 8700K:

I have a friend who's decided to upgrade (lucky dog), and it looks like everything he's picked is pretty straightforward, except the motherboard. I don't have a good sense of what he needs other than he's a pretty standard single-GPU gamer.

His original pick was a $210 Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING. I suggested this was probably a bit high priced for his purposes.

His current pick is a $145 ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac.

I get the impression he wants WiFi. Is it fine to get this built-in on motherboards (this current pick has an Intel wireless chip, which should be fine afaik?), or is there a better option as an add-in PCIe card? Is this ASRock board a dumb decision in any way? (e.g. crummy VRM?) Motherboards are my weak spot. I think he wants this to last a good 5-6 years. (He's upgrading from a 2500K.) So I don't want to give bad advice.

e: I suppose as an estimate of how much overclocking he's planning on, he's only getting the Cryorig H7 as a cooler.

crazypenguin fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Nov 3, 2017

DarkSun6890
Sep 16, 2005
The Magic Turkey Sandwich Box and I
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($399.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9i 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.15 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370N WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($160.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk - Extreme 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Red 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair - 250D Mini ITX Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $855.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-03 18:39 EDT-0400


I've been putting off a purchase for over a year now, but something is wrong with my machine, and it's time.
I have been grabbing parts here and there, and can carry over my GPU. Any alternate suggestions for RAM, or is $150 about as good as it gets right now for 16GB? I have two coolers up because I'm torn. I plan on overclocking, and water cooled has always seemed really neat, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra $70. Will the Noctua cool well enough in my small case or should I go a step up in cooler/fan size?

1080p gaming and media center stuff, probably some video editing down the line.

UberN00ber
Oct 18, 2004

It's a sponge puck.
I am trying to do a small budget upgrade to my computer. The goal is to play Destiny 2 (haven't bought it just yet) at a steady 60 FPS with good settings @ 1080p. Looking to replace my GPU and monitor. I have been looking at parts for about 2 weeks and am driving myself crazy as I just don't have the knowledge.

I am currently running:
Asus Z97-A motherboard
i5-4590 @ 3.30 GHz
8 gig RAM
GeForce GTX 750 Ti
10 year old Samsung LED 19" 60hz monitor

I live in Canada if that makes a big difference and don't have an actual number for a budget but would prefer to do it as inexpensive as possible. I am only looking for a 1080p monitor in hopes that would keep everything down in price and honestly almost anything would be an upgrade to what I have been looking at for these past 10 years.

I am do not care if I go Nvidia or AMD, but I think FreeSync is more common and cheaper?

Any help would be so much appreciated!

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

crazypenguin posted:

Motherboard question for an 8700K:

I have a friend who's decided to upgrade (lucky dog), and it looks like everything he's picked is pretty straightforward, except the motherboard. I don't have a good sense of what he needs other than he's a pretty standard single-GPU gamer.

His original pick was a $210 Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING. I suggested this was probably a bit high priced for his purposes.

His current pick is a $145 ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac.

I get the impression he wants WiFi. Is it fine to get this built-in on motherboards (this current pick has an Intel wireless chip, which should be fine afaik?), or is there a better option as an add-in PCIe card? Is this ASRock board a dumb decision in any way? (e.g. crummy VRM?) Motherboards are my weak spot. I think he wants this to last a good 5-6 years. (He's upgrading from a 2500K.) So I don't want to give bad advice.

e: I suppose as an estimate of how much overclocking he's planning on, he's only getting the Cryorig H7 as a cooler.

Intel wireless is best in class, depending on which model - my usual recommendation for desktop wireless is to get a PCIe x1 to mini-PCIe sled-style converter and stick an Intel 7260 card for a laptop in it. Can't say one way or another about VRMs though.

UberN00ber posted:

I am trying to do a small budget upgrade to my computer. The goal is to play Destiny 2 (haven't bought it just yet) at a steady 60 FPS with good settings @ 1080p. Looking to replace my GPU and monitor. I have been looking at parts for about 2 weeks and am driving myself crazy as I just don't have the knowledge.

I am currently running:
Asus Z97-A motherboard
i5-4590 @ 3.30 GHz
8 gig RAM
GeForce GTX 750 Ti
10 year old Samsung LED 19" 60hz monitor

I live in Canada if that makes a big difference and don't have an actual number for a budget but would prefer to do it as inexpensive as possible. I am only looking for a 1080p monitor in hopes that would keep everything down in price and honestly almost anything would be an upgrade to what I have been looking at for these past 10 years.

I am do not care if I go Nvidia or AMD, but I think FreeSync is more common and cheaper?

Any help would be so much appreciated!

FreeSync is cheaper, but pretty much everything else about AMD graphics is in an unfortunate state right now - you'll pay a lot more for low-mid tier AMD cards than their Nvidia equivalents because of demand from cryptocurrency mining, and I don't think there is any price point where AMD has a lead as a result except arguably Vega 56. If you were going to go AMD you'd want to consider something like an RX470/570 or 480/580 (virtually no difference between 400 and 500 series, AFAIK) but unless you are confident you're getting an adaptive-sync monitor the 1050 Ti or 1060 might be a better option.

Lockback
Sep 3, 2006

All days are nights to see till I see thee; and nights bright days when dreams do show me thee.

crazypenguin posted:

Motherboard question for an 8700K:

I have a friend who's decided to upgrade (lucky dog), and it looks like everything he's picked is pretty straightforward, except the motherboard. I don't have a good sense of what he needs other than he's a pretty standard single-GPU gamer.

His original pick was a $210 Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING. I suggested this was probably a bit high priced for his purposes.

His current pick is a $145 ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac.

I get the impression he wants WiFi. Is it fine to get this built-in on motherboards (this current pick has an Intel wireless chip, which should be fine afaik?), or is there a better option as an add-in PCIe card? Is this ASRock board a dumb decision in any way? (e.g. crummy VRM?) Motherboards are my weak spot. I think he wants this to last a good 5-6 years. (He's upgrading from a 2500K.) So I don't want to give bad advice.

e: I suppose as an estimate of how much overclocking he's planning on, he's only getting the Cryorig H7 as a cooler.

ASRocks VRMs are pretty good, probably better than the Asus pick. I don't think there is anything wrong with the ASRock pick, I just put together a 8700k with a ASRock Extreme4 from a 2500k, I'm pretty happy with it.

Should be able to OC to 4.7-5.0GHZ on all cores, depending on the silicon lottery.

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!

Whiskey A Go Go! posted:

Is it worth going to a 1070 now with a gsnyc monitor for 1440p 144hz or should I wait for Volta to come out and save my pennies for that? I have a 1060 6GB and it is playing what I play now really well at the moment but I am looking to get a more powerful graphic cards because I did not see that the monitor I bought is native 1440p than 1080p.

I would just wait for Volta, the 1060 6GB should be a good enough card to hold you over.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"
Yeah, at this point Volta is a near 100% probability within the next 9-12 months and about a 75% probability in the next 6-9. 3-6 is pushing it outside of a Hail Mary Titan or Quadro card for the price equivalent of your first born plus a kidney. They've got Volta *finished*, it's just a matter of scaling production and figuring out how to cut it down for general consumption in a way that won't result in $799/$999 x70/x80 cards (which, let's face it, they'd get buyers at that price point).

Source: pulling it out of my rear end and simple logic - because nVidia ain't budging on facts.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
They might launch it or tease it in March or something like that. It's a near-100% certainty that it gets released by the end of June though.

Grimson
Dec 16, 2004



How "powerful" does a video card need to be to push a 2k picture if you're not interested in gaming, just general desktop usage?

EDIT: A little googling answered my own question, it looks like integrated graphics on the newer Intel chips can handle up to 4k just fine if you don't want to game.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Grimson posted:

How "powerful" does a video card need to be to push a 2k picture if you're not interested in gaming, just general desktop usage?

EDIT: A little googling answered my own question, it looks like integrated graphics on the newer Intel chips can handle up to 4k just fine if you don't want to game.

Correct, and if you need a discrete GPU then look at the GT 1030.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Nov 4, 2017

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

Is there a difference between these two GPUs?

I assume the one with the dual fans have better cooling?

Arivia
Mar 17, 2011

obi_ant posted:

Is there a difference between these two GPUs?

I assume the one with the dual fans have better cooling?

Correct. Unless you're buying for a small form factor case where length is a concern, get the two fan model. If you are buying SFF, look at a blower instead.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

obi_ant posted:

Is there a difference between these two GPUs?

I assume the one with the dual fans have better cooling?

Correct, the mITX cards wind up pretty good at full speed, they are not super quiet, and they are not the coolest. They also tend not to have the best VRMs. Most people don't need the tradeoffs of an mITX card, even a lot of mITX cases can support full-size GPUs nowadays, they just happen to be cheap to produce.

If it's $10 different you should absolutely go with the dual-fan card.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Nov 4, 2017

TheJeffers
Jan 31, 2007

Paul MaudDib posted:

Correct, the mITX cards wind up pretty good at full speed, they are not super quiet, and they are not the coolest. They also tend not to have the best VRMs. Most people don't need the tradeoffs of an mITX card, even a lot of mITX cases can support full-size GPUs nowadays, they just happen to be cheap to produce.

If it's $10 different you should absolutely go with the dual-fan card.

The GTX 1060 6GB SC (single-fan) is dead silent under load. The SSC will certainly perform no worse and for a $10 difference it's whatever, but GP106 just doesn't need that much cooling power.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

TheJeffers posted:

The GTX 1060 6GB SC (single-fan) is dead silent under load. The SSC will certainly perform no worse and for a $10 difference it's whatever, but GP106 just doesn't need that much cooling power.

Maybe I'm missing it but where does it say single-fan? EVGA sells both single and dual-fan versions with the SC binning...

The potential problem with interpreting noise scores at stock is that the factories are cranking the fans way down these days. This leads to a higher temperature on the single-fan cards relative to the dual-fan cards. Pascal starts getting into noticeable throttling by 70C and by 80C you have lost a significant fraction of your turbo.

Effectively, the single-fan cards are like a "LE" in previous generations. They are gimped versions that perform lower and have a lower TDP as a result. That's how they get away with a lesser cooling solution. Pascal throttles very gracefully, but if the TDP exceeds the cooling capacity you will throttle. They are cheaper for a reason.

iirc GamersNexus often lists a "iso-temperature noise score" or something along those lines that runs the card at a fixed temp to account for the different cooling solutions. I'm guessing the mITX cards lose heavily in that.

I can confirm my Zotac 1060 3 GB mini is noisy as hell and not that cool even at full RPMs. Maybe it's just Zotac but I'm guessing not. There is absolutely no reason to prefer a micro cooler over a dual fan unless you are under space constraints.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 10:32 on Nov 4, 2017

TheJeffers
Jan 31, 2007

TR got a single-fan card from EVGA for its initial review, so they still should be using it: http://techreport.com/review/30812/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-graphics-card-reviewed

I can't confirm their noise numbers but I have the same card here and a quick load test with GPU-Z running suggests the cooler is quite effective. EVGA says boost clocks are 1835 MHz and the card is still hitting 1885 MHz after extended load. Even if I can't measure noise levels, the card is as inaudible to me as TR's numbers would suggest. I attached a screenshot.

Looks like Zotac uses the cheapest possible slug of metal that could qualify as a heatsink on the 1060 3GB mini, so that might have something to do with the performance you're observing.

The single-fan EVGA SC card uses a much nicer design with a copper contact plate and a pair of heat pipes. Probably why it seems to work so well, given everything.

Like I said, though, if the difference is $10 for the dual-fan card and a builder has room in their case for it, go nuts. I just haven't experienced anything from this card that suggests it's hobbled in any way to achieve its size and quietude.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

The Bumpasaurus
May 12, 2001
I can't fucking decide.
Alright, I thought I would be able to figure this out myself but apparently things are more complicated than I thought.

Want to build a new PC. Live in the US. My uses are mainly:
-casual gaming. I want to mainly play Cities: Skylines and retro games on emulators, but will also likely catch up on some other games I missed in the last 5 or so years when I wasn't really gaming...but I definitely don't need a beastly GPU. I mainly play games on consoles if available so if I can't run something very well I'll just buy it on PS4 or PS5 or whatever.
-general desktop publishing (InDesign and a little Photoshop),
-GIS, but not professionally

I also care about it being quiet. I need wifi (If it's cheaper to get a card to do this and save money on the mobo, that's fine) and Bluetooth would be nice to have.

I have a like-new ASUS GeForce GTX 950 Mini that I bought when I thought I was going to upgrade my old machine that I would like to use for this build, but I could be convinced to ebay it and get a different card.

I would like to spend around $500-600.

Here's what I have from the picker, but I started with an existing build and mostly just guessed on the motherboard so I am obviously open to other suggestions:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mpTVM8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mpTVM8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i3-7100 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor ($106.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B250M PRO-VDH Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *Patriot - Viper Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($117.49 @ OutletPC)
Storage: *Hitachi - Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 950 75W 2GB Video Card (owned already)
Case: Apevia - X-QPACK3-GN MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($40.89 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill - N900PCE PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.91 @ Amazon)

Total: $521.23

Thanks in advance!

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYk7m8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYk7m8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.46 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock - H270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($95.39 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card ($274.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1097.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-04 16:40 EDT-0400

Looks like I've made a few decisions, I haven't been able to decide one RAM. Any suggestions, or anything I should replace with something else at this point? My CPU I can't change because it's coming from a friend's "old" computer. Which he is going to let me "borrow" for a bit.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

obi_ant posted:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYk7m8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gYk7m8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.46 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock - H270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($95.39 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card ($274.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1097.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-04 16:40 EDT-0400

Looks like I've made a few decisions, I haven't been able to decide one RAM. Any suggestions, or anything I should replace with something else at this point? My CPU I can't change because it's coming from a friend's "old" computer. Which he is going to let me "borrow" for a bit.

You've got an unlocked K-SKUed processor on a board that won't overclock. Look into an 8700K and Z370 in the same form factor (ASRock makes it). It might cost a little more and be a little more difficult to put your hands on, but what you've got up there is a dead-end build.

Also, your PSU might be rated 80+ Gold, but it's universally regarded as a bad gaming rig PSU. Look into the Corsair RMx line or the EVGA G3s. As for RAM, almost every decision now is expensive, but thread favorites include the Corsair LPX series and G.Skill's offerings. With a Z370 you'll want DDR4-3000, since the price scales higher the faster the clocks.

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

The Bumpasaurus posted:

Alright, I thought I would be able to figure this out myself but apparently things are more complicated than I thought.

Want to build a new PC. Live in the US. My uses are mainly:
-casual gaming. I want to mainly play Cities: Skylines and retro games on emulators, but will also likely catch up on some other games I missed in the last 5 or so years when I wasn't really gaming...but I definitely don't need a beastly GPU. I mainly play games on consoles if available so if I can't run something very well I'll just buy it on PS4 or PS5 or whatever.
-general desktop publishing (InDesign and a little Photoshop),
-GIS, but not professionally

I also care about it being quiet. I need wifi (If it's cheaper to get a card to do this and save money on the mobo, that's fine) and Bluetooth would be nice to have.

I have a like-new ASUS GeForce GTX 950 Mini that I bought when I thought I was going to upgrade my old machine that I would like to use for this build, but I could be convinced to ebay it and get a different card.

I would like to spend around $500-600.

Here's what I have from the picker, but I started with an existing build and mostly just guessed on the motherboard so I am obviously open to other suggestions:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mpTVM8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mpTVM8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i3-7100 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor ($106.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B250M PRO-VDH Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *Patriot - Viper Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($117.49 @ OutletPC)
Storage: *Hitachi - Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 950 75W 2GB Video Card (owned already)
Case: Apevia - X-QPACK3-GN MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($40.89 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill - N900PCE PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.91 @ Amazon)

Total: $521.23

Thanks in advance!

This is an unfortunate time to be buying Kaby Lake and especially an i3, since you're paying the same thing for a dual-core that could get you a Cannon Lake quad. I would recommend checking out Ryzen 3 instead if you're going to buy right now, since the cheap motherboards for Cannon Lake aren't out yet. If you want to stick with Kaby Lake, I think the Pentiums are almost as good as the i3 and a lot cheaper. Also, I'm not sure if the 3000MHz memory is any more expensive than 2400MHz would be but it's not going to run any faster either in a B250 board so don't pay extra for it.

VulgarandStupid
Aug 5, 2003
I AM, AND ALWAYS WILL BE, UNFUCKABLE AND A TOTAL DISAPPOINTMENT TO EVERYONE. DAE WANNA CUM PLAY WITH ME!?




Op needs to take Kaby Lake out of the OP

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

VulgarandStupid posted:

Op needs to take Kaby Lake out of the OP

I know I said I'd tackle writing a new OP in a new thread, but damned if it isn't difficult compartmentalizing everything *new* into one coherent post. Maybe we should delegate? One person writes one section, another does another, and then finally knit them all together into one massed OP.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Ryzen 3's also have the bonus that AMD is going to try and stick with the AM4 for the next few years, so there's a good upgrade path.

eames
May 9, 2009

BIG HEADLINE posted:

I know I said I'd tackle writing a new OP in a new thread, but damned if it isn't difficult compartmentalizing everything *new* into one coherent post. Maybe we should delegate? One person writes one section, another does another, and then finally knit them all together into one massed OP.

wiki wiki wiki

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

BIG HEADLINE posted:

You've got an unlocked K-SKUed processor on a board that won't overclock. Look into an 8700K and Z370 in the same form factor (ASRock makes it). It might cost a little more and be a little more difficult to put your hands on, but what you've got up there is a dead-end build.

Also, your PSU might be rated 80+ Gold, but it's universally regarded as a bad gaming rig PSU. Look into the Corsair RMx line or the EVGA G3s. As for RAM, almost every decision now is expensive, but thread favorites include the Corsair LPX series and G.Skill's offerings. With a Z370 you'll want DDR4-3000, since the price scales higher the faster the clocks.

Would this be a good mobo here? I also don't plan to ever overclock the unit.

I'll pick another PSU.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

obi_ant posted:

Would this be a good mobo here? I also don't plan to ever overclock the unit.

I'll pick another PSU.

Yes, that'll be fine - but keep in mind you'll HAVE to get an 8th gen chip - 7th gen chips won't work in a Z370. The plus of going with a Z370 is it gives you the option years from now to drop in a cheaper 8700K or potentially an 8900K eight-core (we don't know if this will be possible yet). It also enables you to use faster RAM, whereas the H-series (which don't exist yet for the 8th gens) are locked at specific RAM speeds (2400Mhz for the 200 motherboards, and 2666Mhz for the upcoming consumer 300 boards).

And there's not going to be a huge price difference between that CXM and the RMx or G3 - usually it's spot on around those prices with the almost everpresent rebates. Plus the RMx and G3 are fully-modular, and the RMx comes with a 10y warranty while the G3 comes with 7y up to the 650W SKU.

Case in point, the 650W G3 is currently cheaper after rebate than the 550W: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438094

And the 750W RMx is the same price without a rebate as the 650W RMx is *with* one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139142

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Nov 5, 2017

anthonypants
May 6, 2007

by Nyc_Tattoo
Dinosaur Gum

obi_ant posted:

Would this be a good mobo here? I also don't plan to ever overclock the unit.

I'll pick another PSU.
If you don't plan on overclocking, don't buy the CPU that ends in K. It'll be cheaper, cooler, and use less electricity.

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Yes, that'll be fine - but keep in mind you'll HAVE to get an 8th gen chip - 7th gen chips won't work in a Z370. The plus of going with a Z370 is it gives you the option years from now to drop in a cheaper 8700K or potentially an 8900K eight-core (we don't know if this will be possible yet). It also enables you to use faster RAM, whereas the H-series (which don't exist yet for the 8th gens) are locked at specific RAM speeds (2400Mhz for the 200 motherboards, and 2666Mhz for the upcoming consumer 300 boards).

And there's not going to be a huge price difference between that CXM and the RMx or G3 - usually it's spot on around those prices with the almost everpresent rebates. Plus the RMx and G3 are fully-modular, and the RMx comes with a 10y warranty while the G3 comes with 7y up to the 650W SKU.

Thanks for the suggestions. Although, I'm going to have to stick with the CPU, because I'm gonna be saving like $200 (since my friend is basically giving that to me). I'm basically looking for a Mini-ITX with wi-fi built in. I think those are literally my only requirements.

I didn't know RAM was that expensive now a days, I guess when I was building my older computer it was DDR3.

I decided to pick up the G3.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

obi_ant posted:

Thanks for the suggestions. Although, I'm going to have to stick with the CPU, because I'm gonna be saving like $200 (since my friend is basically giving that to me). I'm basically looking for a Mini-ITX with wi-fi built in. I think those are literally my only requirements.

I didn't know RAM was that expensive now a days, I guess when I was building my older computer it was DDR3.

I decided to pick up the G3.

I understand - just remember that if you're getting a 7700K for a substantial discount, you might as well get the Z270 version of that ASRock ITX board. Just because you aren't intending on overclocking doesn't mean it wouldn't be nice (and potentially useful) to have the *ability* to down the line.

obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

BIG HEADLINE posted:

I understand - just remember that if you're getting a 7700K for a substantial discount, you might as well get the Z270 version of that ASRock ITX board. Just because you aren't intending on overclocking doesn't mean it wouldn't be nice (and potentially useful) to have the *ability* to down the line.

Thanks for your suggestions! You and everyone has been super helpful. Gonna pick this here.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

obi_ant posted:

Thanks for your suggestions! You and everyone has been super helpful. Gonna pick this here.

Also, good call on the G3 - it's a smaller PSU than the RMx, which should make it easier to get into your case. Remember to pick up some DDR4-3000 to go with the Z270 - the thread recommendation for that is always the Corsair LPX modules or G.Skill. The LPXes are popular because they've got the least gaudy and potentially blocking heatspreaders on them.

You're also going to need to go into the BIOS of your board and set the XMP profile so you actually use said RAM *at* 3000Mhz. It might do it by default, but it's always good to check.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Nov 5, 2017

VulgarandStupid
Aug 5, 2003
I AM, AND ALWAYS WILL BE, UNFUCKABLE AND A TOTAL DISAPPOINTMENT TO EVERYONE. DAE WANNA CUM PLAY WITH ME!?




If you can swing it, this is the best deal on DDR4 right now. I just paid $150 a few weeks ago.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10733479-g-skill-ripjaws-v-series-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-pc4-24000-f4-3000c15d-16gvkb-123

FooF
Mar 26, 2010

VulgarandStupid posted:

If you can swing it, this is the best deal on DDR4 right now. I just paid $150 a few weeks ago.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10733479-g-skill-ripjaws-v-series-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-pc4-24000-f4-3000c15d-16gvkb-123

Yeah, that's not bad. I just looked at the RAM I bought at the end of August (2x8GB DDR4 2666) for $112 and now the same kit is $200.

Even though processors have never been better, between all the AMD GPUs getting snagged by crypto miners and RAM prices trending exponentially, this is a lovely time to build a rig.

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MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!
Don't forget that flash prices are elevated too :(

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