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So basically if your extinguishers have metal handles you're ok?
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Nov 4, 2017 03:04
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HEY NONG MAN posted:So basically if your extinguishers have metal handles you're ok? Well as ok as your poo poo being on fire can make you.
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Nov 4, 2017 09:53
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Oh hey look the cheesy 3lber that came with the house is a plastic handled kidde. In 15-20 days a new one is going to arrive. Yay?
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Nov 4, 2017 16:02
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Motronic posted:Your research on Goodman is correct. They are a middle of the road brand with middle of the road features/quality that are absolutely comparable to other middle of the road units.
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Nov 5, 2017 00:06
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HEY NONG MAN posted:So basically if your extinguishers have metal handles you're ok? Extra glad I spent the extra  or whatever it was for the "Pro" model. 
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Nov 5, 2017 01:31
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devicenull posted:So those fire extinguishers you probably have? Turns out they may not actually work: https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde-recalls-fire-extinguishers-with-plastic-handles-due-to-failure-to-discharge-and Happy I went with Amerex instead of Kidde for my fire extinguishers.
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Nov 6, 2017 23:42
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glad all my fire extinguishers are like 30 years old
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Nov 6, 2017 23:44
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Leperflesh posted:glad all my fire extinguishers are like 30 years old Just checked mine and it's a General that was last inspected in 1998, lol. Some Googling tells me that as long as the indicator is in the green and all the nozzle pieces look intact I can just hang on to it.
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Nov 7, 2017 02:26
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don't think that I'd keep an unused fire extinguisher more than 10-15 years; they're like $30, no point in taking the risk of some ancient fire extinguisher not working correctly when you need it to and if you have the refillable kind then make sure to keep that poo poo maintained
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Nov 7, 2017 04:18
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Also you can empty out an old extinguisher as an exercise in what it feels like to actually use it so when you need it you have an idea of what to expect.
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Nov 7, 2017 05:16
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Also you can empty out an old extinguisher as an exercise in what it feels like to actually use it so when you need it you have an idea of what to expect. Hell yeah, do this. Most adults have probably never even used a fire extinguisher. Take one with you camping or something and try it out on a campfire, even, just as an educational experience
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Nov 7, 2017 06:00
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:Just checked mine and it's a General that was last inspected in 1998, lol. Some Googling tells me that as long as the indicator is in the green and all the nozzle pieces look intact I can just hang on to it. I had an old fire extinguisher that showed it was in the green but when I went to use it after replacing it, found out it had no pressure in it. The white powder just fell out of the nozzle if you flipped it upside down. So you might want to play it safe and buy a new one. They're only like $30.
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Nov 7, 2017 15:13
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QuarkJets posted:Hell yeah, do this. Most adults have probably never even used a fire extinguisher. Take one with you camping or something and try it out on a campfire, even, just as an educational experience Using a fire extinguisher on a live trash-can fire should be a requirement to graduate high school.
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Nov 7, 2017 15:18
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:Just checked mine and it's a General that was last inspected in 1998, lol. Some Googling tells me that as long as the indicator is in the green and all the nozzle pieces look intact I can just hang on to it. You sure can hang on to it. But don't count on it to work as an extinguisher. If the powder isn't one giant brick now the first time you open the vale it will almost definitely not close again. Those are not expected or effective results.
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Nov 7, 2017 15:25
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MrYenko posted:Using a fire extinguisher on a live trash-can fire should be a requirement to graduate high school. Fun story: Back in high-school I had the opportunity "fire in anger" an extinguisher due to some local firebug lighting a port-o-john up with a can of silly string. It was the weekend so no one was there except for my friends and myself, who were in Elizabethan fancy-man outfits because we were rehearsing a Shakespeare production. I'm told the three in stockings and doublets hosing down a towering inferno of plastic and poop was quite the amusing image.
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Nov 7, 2017 18:37
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It’s fun to empty an extinguisher- we all had to back in RA training in college.
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Nov 8, 2017 00:25
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Anya posted:It’s fun to empty an extinguisher- we all had to back in RA training in college. Haha same, this is the only place I ever have, it was great fun!
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Nov 8, 2017 17:05
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As it turns out my college dorm is the only place I've ever started a fire. Colleges must be on to something.
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Nov 8, 2017 19:02
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I just got a check from my Mortgage company refunding me $300 from my escrow, along with a note saying they were raising my escrow $9 to cover the estimates for next year. Why not just keep $108 from that check you just sent me?
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Nov 8, 2017 20:36
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Probably their contract with you is very specific about what they do when you have an overage. In fact I'd expect it's entirely automated.
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Nov 8, 2017 20:49
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Leperflesh posted:Probably their contract with you is very specific about what they do when you have an overage. In fact I'd expect it's entirely automated. It is also very specifically regulated.
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Nov 8, 2017 21:11
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You typically have a choice to either pay the shortage in full so your monthly payment stays the same (this you have to opt into). By default they will just increase your monthly payment to make up for it.
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Nov 8, 2017 22:13
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Forget fire extinguishers, buy a fire blanket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYCE7IC/ Never expires, less of a mess, and easy to use. Fire needs oxygen, heat, and fuel. Remove any one of those, and it goes out. Water simply removes heat, and a blanket will smother and remove oxygen.
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Nov 9, 2017 13:35
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OSU_Matthew posted:Forget fire extinguishers, buy a fire blanket: It's recommended that you keep both a fire blanket and a fire extinguisher, as they're better used for different things
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Nov 9, 2017 14:11
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Yeah if I get a fire on my range it's going to be hard to seal off with a blanked, given that the grates (?) have a bunch of space underneath them.
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Nov 9, 2017 16:51
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What if I start my ceiling on fire?
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Nov 9, 2017 17:07
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Anyone with dogs use any of those poop composters in their back yard? I'm interested in getting one for our yard and was looking for opinions on if they are a good idea or not, which ones are best, and if I should rely on the enzyme tablets they provide or get something like meal worms which I've also seen recommended.
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Nov 13, 2017 00:17
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I️ have one and the only complaint I have is the green lid has cracked off. The enzymes work okay. I️ think it’s a doggy Dooley? Lid was green.
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Nov 13, 2017 01:01
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I'm in the northeast and winter is coming, so let's talk about heating systems. Has anyone made the switch from steam to forced air? I'm considering going from gas boilers to gas furnaces for the simpler/cheaper maintenance in the long run. (For steam, I include radiators, their valves and piping in the maintenance. I had some radiator valves that needed replacing and I really need to pressure test my pipes soon.) I've got a 21 year old gas boiler in my house. I've also got a rental unit with a 13 year old gas boiler, with tenants paying for utilities. Woodstock fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 14:36
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Has anyone successfully stripped paint off of old wood floors? Upstairs to our new house is all carpet, which we want to get rid of. I pulled it up in one room hoping that there was wood underneath, but figuring worst case we'd replace it with laminate or something. There is wood, but at some point someone painted it yellow.  The current plan is to try out Citristrip and then rent a drum sander. This is the smallest of four rooms, so I thought it would be a good tester.
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Nov 15, 2017 15:21
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z0331 posted:The current plan is to try out Citristrip and then rent a drum sander. This is the smallest of four rooms, so I thought it would be a good tester. Test it for lead before you sand it. You could just use course sandpaper on a corner, get some dust onto a plate and drip the test sticks onto it. Test the surface you are going to put the dust on first to make sure it shows up negative.
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Nov 15, 2017 16:43
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H110Hawk posted:Test it for lead before you sand it. You could just use course sandpaper on a corner, get some dust onto a plate and drip the test sticks onto it. Test the surface you are going to put the dust on first to make sure it shows up negative. Yeah, it's an old house so we'll definitely be testing. I'm just concerned we'll end up putting a ton of effort into stripping the paint and not even get a good result. I *think* it's only like one layer based on a small section where some flaked off and I can see the wood.
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Nov 15, 2017 17:47
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z0331 posted:Yeah, it's an old house so we'll definitely be testing. If they're real hardwood floors that weren't destroyed (lots of knots and gouges) I don't see how you wouldn't get a good result. It's just a matter of taking all the paint off and then a bit more and refinish. So if the floor is relatively flat it's just a bunch of work and sand paper. If you're talking about REALLY old floors that weren't sanded to begin with (like 1800s barn board kinda stuff) you're talking extra hard mode. But that's going to be the exception.
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Nov 15, 2017 18:09
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Is there any concern about making the floor weak? I have awesome flooring guys and they turned down redoing our bedroom which is older boards painted white because he said they would have to send off too much. I was always a bit weary of this.
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Nov 15, 2017 18:16
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Motronic posted:If they're real hardwood floors that weren't destroyed (lots of knots and gouges) I don't see how you wouldn't get a good result. Because in homeownership, nothing can be easy.  But from what I can tell, yeah it's fairly smooth and with no gaps. So as you say, hopefully it will just be a matter of some physical effort.
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Nov 15, 2017 18:43
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The Dave posted:Is there any concern about making the floor weak? I have awesome flooring guys and they turned down redoing our bedroom which is older boards painted white because he said they would have to send off too much. I was always a bit weary of this. I don't know where exactly the cutoff is, but my gut instinct is that a floor that's a half-inch thick would still be usable if it's made from solid wood and is well supported by the subfloor.
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Nov 15, 2017 18:50
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I replaced the water intake valve on my fridge and apparently wiggled my icemaker line to the point that it leaked water onto my wood floor for a couple days before I figured out what happened. Now I have a large bow in the floor (3 months later) that I'm pretty sure won't go away. I'm wondering if I can contact my homeowners insurance about a leak or if I need to just bite the bullet and replace the floor soon.
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Nov 15, 2017 19:01
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No Butt Stuff posted:I replaced the water intake valve on my fridge and apparently wiggled my icemaker line to the point that it leaked water onto my wood floor for a couple days before I figured out what happened. For 10 sq ft of floor replacement you're not looking at much higher than you deductible in repair costs unless the water got a lot further. You can always take a bunch of pictures then tear it up. The internet tells me $14/sqft is the high end of wood pricing, plus labor to R&R, fix any hidden problems, and stain to match. I bet it's around $1,000 to get it done, assuming no major problems hidden underneath it. Has this bow been materializing over the last 3 months or did it happen pretty early on after you dried it up and hasn't gotten any worse? This is why I use ice trays like the savages.
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Nov 15, 2017 20:03
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H110Hawk posted:For 10 sq ft of floor replacement you're not looking at much higher than you deductible in repair costs unless the water got a lot further. You can always take a bunch of pictures then tear it up. The internet tells me $14/sqft is the high end of wood pricing, plus labor to R&R, fix any hidden problems, and stain to match. I bet it's around $1,000 to get it done, assuming no major problems hidden underneath it. It hasn't gotten any worse. The floor is 20 years old at this point and I have no idea if you could actually match the stain at this point at all or not. But I've only got 200 sq ft of hardwood, so I would imagine given the difficulty of finding any contractor around here who could actually patch and match, it would be best to do the whole floor.
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Nov 15, 2017 21:26
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If/when you do replace your floor, make certain to buy a few extra packages of floorboards, so you can do repairs with matching boards properly. Floorboard products are constantly changing, so you can't count on being able to buy the same product even a few months later.
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Nov 15, 2017 21:48
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