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Getting out of Milton ASAP is always a good idea. I'm definitely not suggesting that I wouldn't put winters on, more wondering if it would be worth buying a new set of 17s so that I can push the car a little bit more November-April. I'm overall not looking to hoon around or anything, I just will feel dumb if putting my brand new Si on 15s right after getting it will take away the handling characteristics that I paid extra for. The truth is I don't know if I'm a savvy enough driver to really notice though, like I said this is baby's first non-appliance car.
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Nov 6, 2017 00:51
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Good way to get a huge failson coolant stain off the asphalt road? I'm mostly fixed the leak but it was bad for a while and there is a big black spot. I tried Dawn and scrubbing with a deck brush but it didn't do much. I read on the internet Coke (-a-cola) might work. It might also have soaked into the asphalt too much.
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Nov 6, 2017 00:53
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thylacine posted:Good way to get a huge failson coolant stain off the asphalt road? I'm mostly fixed the leak but it was bad for a while and there is a big black spot. I tried Dawn and scrubbing with a deck brush but it didn't do much. I read on the internet Coke (-a-cola) might work. It might also have soaked into the asphalt too much. Coolant will gradually leach out with water (i.e. rain) so that's about the best you can do. Ethylene/propylene glycol doesn't have much vapor pressure, so evaporation will be slow. There's nothing in Coke that would do anything to it.
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Nov 6, 2017 00:57
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prom candy posted:Getting out of Milton ASAP is always a good idea. I'm definitely not suggesting that I wouldn't put winters on, more wondering if it would be worth buying a new set of 17s so that I can push the car a little bit more November-April. I'm overall not looking to hoon around or anything, I just will feel dumb if putting my brand new Si on 15s right after getting it will take away the handling characteristics that I paid extra for. The truth is I don't know if I'm a savvy enough driver to really notice though, like I said this is baby's first non-appliance car.
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Nov 6, 2017 04:27
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ExecuDork posted:You've already got those 15-winters, right? Put them on (if they fit), and try them out. If your second choice is to buy new winter tires (not a bad idea), what have you got to lose by trying the 15s for a bit? Just the time it takes to bring my car in and the $25 the shop charges me to swap them. I guess I could learn to swap my own tires.
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Nov 6, 2017 04:44
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Deteriorata posted:Coolant will gradually leach out with water (i.e. rain) so that's about the best you can do. Ethylene/propylene glycol doesn't have much vapor pressure, so evaporation will be slow. There's nothing in Coke that would do anything to it. What he said, but maybe you can accelerate the process with a pressure washer?
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Nov 6, 2017 08:18
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ExecuDork posted:True, but the road is covered in snow often enough during the winter that having good winter tires on can be a literal life-saver. I had more than one night-time drive doing 50km/h on the 401, trying to stay in the tracks of a bus or a big transport truck and not get sideswiped by lunatics going faster than me nor rear-end cowards going slower than me (everybody else is bad, my speed is obviously exactly correct). Without winter tires those drives would have been impossible - and one of them was driving home to Waterloo from Pearson after being away for two weeks, I was eager to get home and I'm not smart enough to find a motel in Milton under those circumstances. Milton is pretty awful anyway.... I agree though, I was at my brother's place in London on Boxing day about 5 or 6 years ago, and had to Drive to my parent's place in Niagara Falls. Snow storm blew up and the 401, 403, QEW were covered. I saw plenty of snow plows going the other way, but the direction I was traveling appeared to be devoid of them. Though realistically, they were probably just way the gently caress ahead of me, and the hundred other cars that were in front of me. Even so, the highway was still covered. Glad I had my snow tires on, and they were actually pretty crappy (general altimax arctic).
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Nov 6, 2017 13:53
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wesleywillis posted:I agree though, I was at my brother's place in London on Boxing day about 5 or 6 years ago, and had to Drive to my parent's place in Niagara Falls. Snow storm blew up and the 401, 403, QEW were covered. I saw plenty of snow plows going the other way, but the direction I was traveling appeared to be devoid of them. Though realistically, they were probably just way the gently caress ahead of me, and the hundred other cars that were in front of me. Even so, the highway was still covered.  Bloody good tyres...
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Nov 6, 2017 14:10
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spog posted:
Yeah, those north Atlantic storms can be a real motherfucker. Trip took about 3 and a half hours. I was planning to stop in Paris on the way, but those French bastards can be real cunts.
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Nov 6, 2017 14:13
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How is that an 11+ hr flight? Edit: My last transatlantic took 11 hrs and it went from Germany to Oklahoma.
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Nov 6, 2017 16:34
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Godholio posted:How is that an 11+ hr flight? British made plane. They need a bit of coaxing to get going sometimes.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:18
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Godholio posted:How is that an 11+ hr flight? It includes layovers (but they're not shown on maps).
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Nov 6, 2017 17:18
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spog posted:
We stole a bunch of UK city names. Some german ones too but most of those got renamed in the 1910s for some reason.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:48
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wesleywillis posted:they were actually pretty crappy (general altimax arctic).  And snow tire != winter tire. Altimax Arctics are winter tires.
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Nov 6, 2017 19:03
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata with an "old-timey" digital dashboard clock. Today I tried to change the time for daylight savings and none of the buttons (H, M, R) work. I've tried pushing with a pen as far as it goes, but no dice. Clock still works, buttons don't. Any advice or simple DIY instructions? I'll be getting it serviced in a month but I don't want to feel like I'm late for the next month.
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Nov 6, 2017 19:47
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ExecuDork posted:I had a set of studded General Altimax Arctics for my BMW when I lived in Saskatchewan and they were the best tires I've ever driven on. I know, I use the term (improperly) interchangeably. They probably would be good with studs, but they're forbidden in Southern Ontario, and imho, suck without them.
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Nov 6, 2017 22:02
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata with an "old-timey" digital dashboard clock. If you are able to remove the clock assembly from the dash, open it up as far as you can to expose the comtacts/buttons, and hit it with aerosol electrical contact cleaner: https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505 In the alternative, just hose down the dash via pray & spray, maybe some'll get in there
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Nov 6, 2017 22:36
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata with an "old-timey" digital dashboard clock. You may try disconnecting the battery, then reconnecting it at midnight. 
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Nov 6, 2017 23:13
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Ok bro dogs, I need your assistance figuring out a  mystery vibration 2005 Toyota Camry V6 3.0L 201,000 miles So here's whats going on: I'm getting a strong vibration/shudder on the freeway while accelerating or climbing a hill Background: About 4 months ago, I was getting a vibration while making left turns at freeway speed. I lifted it and noticed the right inner tie-rod boot was all messed up. I replaced the inner and outer tie-rod ends which were very loose and worn and had an alignment done. The vibration went away. Fast forward to today I've started to feel a similar vibration from the front, but only while accelerating or going uphill, even very very gentle hills. I initially thought it might be an engine problem, it was time to change the spark plugs anyway so I changed those but the problem persists. In park, I can rev the engine without any strange noises or stuttering, so I don't think there's a problem there. The vibration doesn't seem to be associated with turning in one direction or another. Only while increasing speed (it even happens while using cruise control. If you tap the cruise to increase 1 or 2 mph, it'll vibrate until the new speed is reached) or driving even slightly uphill. What's weird to me is that if you let off the accelerator the vibration immediately goes away. That suggests to me that its not related to steering/suspension, but I'm really not sure. Looking under the car, nothing jumps out as being very wrong and there's no lights on the instrument cluster indicating a problem. What do you folks think?
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Nov 7, 2017 06:43
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You may try disconnecting the battery, then reconnecting it at midnight. The clock’s button mysteriously worked the next time I drove after work. Shrug.
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Nov 7, 2017 06:45
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Action Man posted:2005 Toyota Camry V6 3.0L Inner CV joints are the first thing that come to mind. I assume they're original?
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Nov 7, 2017 06:45
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Definitely Original. Is there a good way of testing if they're bad?
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Nov 7, 2017 06:52
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier 4WD, 6cyl., VQ40DE that needs a transmission valve body replacement. Shop is trying to charge me $1500 for a part directly from the local Nissan dealer, I can find them online for $300-$850 - the catch is, I don't know if mine is a 1 accumulator type or a 2 accumulator type, and the shop will charge me to remove it and look at it. Is there a way to find out online, based on what kind of truck it is? edit: after some searching, I found the service manuals, but they're no help. Businesses on ebay point me to the RE5R05A model with the NIS505 part number, meaning 2 accumulator w 20-40 ohm resistance. I'm seeing a lot of indirect evidence it's that one, is there a way to confirm it? Abugadu fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 06:53
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Action Man posted:Definitely Original. Is there a good way of testing if they're bad? I'm not gonna be much help there. I'm sure there's a way to see if there's too much play, but drat if I remember how to check. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
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Nov 7, 2017 08:10
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Abugadu posted:I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier 4WD, 6cyl., VQ40DE that needs a transmission valve body replacement. Shop is trying to charge me $1500 for a part directly from the local Nissan dealer, I can find them online for $300-$850 - the catch is, I don't know if mine is a 1 accumulator type or a 2 accumulator type, and the shop will charge me to remove it and look at it. Is there a way to find out online, based on what kind of truck it is? Could you call the dealership and give them your VIN? Call them like you're gonna buy the part yourself, ask for the part # "for your mechanic" or something.
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Nov 7, 2017 13:37
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Action Man posted:Ok bro dogs, I need your assistance figuring out a If its down on power too it could be fuel pump or part of the fuel system or kinda less likely but maybe a partially clogged catylic converter. Fuel pumps that are just starting to overheat can be kinda hard to catch in the act you may have to rule everything else out first or plumb a fuel pressure gauge you can read while driving.
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Nov 7, 2017 19:29
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Action Man posted:Ok bro dogs, I need your assistance figuring out a Could it be a motor mount that just gave out?
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Nov 7, 2017 22:20
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Action Man posted:Definitely Original. Is there a good way of testing if they're bad? Vibrating under load is a pretty good test. If everything in the rearview mirror is blurry when you lay on the gas, that's a bingo.
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Nov 8, 2017 00:58
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StormDrain posted:Could it be a motor mount that just gave out?
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Nov 8, 2017 01:02
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Alright my buddy asked me if it's fine to leave the parking brake on well changing his rear brake pads. I told him it should be fine, but it ended up compressing the caliper and he couldn't get it off until he released the parking brake. Is it normal for all disc brake systems to integrate in with the calipers/pads? I could have swore changing pads on my BMWs I always left the parking brake on.
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Nov 8, 2017 04:58
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Depends on the car. Some use a "drum in hat" setup, which has a small drum brake inside the middle of the rotor. You'll be able to change pads fine on those with the parking brake on, but won't be able to remove the rotor. Some use the disc brakes for the parking brake. You won't be able to change pads on those unless you release the parking brake. Wheel chocks, a flat surface, and jack stands are your friend if you're messing with a car and have to release the parking brake.
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Nov 8, 2017 05:49
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Some older cars with rear disc brakes actually had a whole separate caliper just for the parking brake.
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Nov 8, 2017 07:17
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My 05 Civic (70k miles) recently began pulling to the left slightly. I want to say I started noticing it after a tire rotation a couple months ago. I get an oil change, tire rotation, inspection, etc, at the dealer for free, but I don't trust them to actually fix anything. Wanted me to pay $400 for a front O2 filter. Bought the $100 part and did it myself, knowing nothing about cars. Tires are brand new, maybe 15k miles. Tire pressure is even 30psi on all four. Should I go to a chain or local auto place? Should I expect to pay for inspection? Any ideas what it might be and cost to fix? Anything I could try? I'm pretty confident it's not just the roads I drive on. The steering wheel itself wants to turn slightly to the left. Thanks
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Nov 8, 2017 07:49
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Rotate the tires again, see if it continues. If it doesn't, you have a tire that's wearing funny. Any decent alignment shop should be able to figure out what's going on. Check Yelp for general shops that are trusted, then figure out which of those also do alignment.
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Nov 8, 2017 09:10
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How bad is it to weld a sway bar? I already know the answer to that: don't do it. But its not like in the middle of the bar or something. Its at the end. The hole where the stud for the end link goes through has a crack. I really don't want it to break and I sure as gently caress don't want to replace the fuckin thing. I'm sure the bar has some sort of voodoo heat treatment to make it flexy and whatnot so I obviously don't want to gently caress it up, but I figure if I use a die grinder to grind out the crack a bit to get better penetration on the weld, and then weld it a bit, let it cool right the gently caress down, weld it again and so on then maybe it wouldn't be so bad? I'd eventually have to grind it again to make the weld flush, not to mention get rid of slag (flux core) but I could use a file to keep it from getting hot and hopefully not gently caress poo poo up. Bad idea?
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Nov 8, 2017 13:22
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Qubee fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 8, 2017 13:33
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So the cold weather is moving in quickly and I have a place to store my 944, an old K-mart that is a car warehouse now. When I park it for 4-5 months, is it better to: keep the battery in there, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, or pull the entire battery out and bring it home? I plan on stopping by every now and then to start it and let it run for a little bit, if I'm allowed. I'm paying extra to be in the front row so I can take it out as I want, so I can stop by and drive it whenever. I'll know more what kind of place this is on Saturday, but it's in an old K-mart so I imagine it's heated. edit: if it matters, it's a pretty new battery. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Nov 8, 2017 |
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Nov 8, 2017 14:34
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CornHolio posted:So the cold weather is moving in quickly and I have a place to store my 944, an old K-mart that is a car warehouse now. When I park it for 4-5 months, is it better to: keep the battery in there, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, or pull the entire battery out and bring it home? Do you have use of power? If so, you could probably either leave a trickle charger on it or stop by every couple months and put a regular charger on it for two hours or so. If you're going to stop by and run it every now and then (assuming you're allowed to) then I wouldn't even worry about taking the battery out.
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Nov 8, 2017 15:16
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CornHolio posted:So the cold weather is moving in quickly and I have a place to store my 944, an old K-mart that is a car warehouse now. When I park it for 4-5 months, is it better to: keep the battery in there, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, or pull the entire battery out and bring it home? Don't start it unless you're going to drive it long enough to get the oil up to temperature (at least 20 minutes). You're just doing more harm than good.
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Nov 8, 2017 15:46
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wesleywillis posted:Do you have use of power? If so, you could probably either leave a trickle charger on it or stop by every couple months and put a regular charger on it for two hours or so. I don't know if I'll have an outlet yet. I don't know if I want to leave my trickle charger there, though. Seems like it'd be pretty easy to steal. Would it be better to leave it in the car, disconnected, or should I have it in my garage on my trickle charger? I just don't want to do any damage to the battery. opengl128 posted:Don't start it unless you're going to drive it long enough to get the oil up to temperature (at least 20 minutes). You're just doing more harm than good. I park my truck in my backyard, and usually go start it and let it run for a half hour every other week in the winter. It doesn't move, though. Am I doing more harm than good?
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Nov 8, 2017 16:05
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