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Maybe. If the oil doesnt get over 200 it doesnt cook off the moisture. Idling in the winter may not get it over 200.
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Nov 8, 2017 19:08
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CornHolio posted:I don't know if I'll have an outlet yet. I don't know if I want to leave my trickle charger there, though. Seems like it'd be pretty easy to steal. Yeah, I guess if you leave it in, disconnecting the negative probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Even poo poo like the clock draws a bit of power.
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Nov 8, 2017 19:58
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah, I guess if you leave it in, disconnecting the negative probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Even poo poo like the clock draws a bit of power. hah, the clock is one of the few things in this car that would draw power that I can think of, and it doesn't work. Still... would the battery maintain its charge over, say, four months if it's disconnected? DogonCrook posted:Maybe. If the oil doesnt get over 200 it doesnt cook off the moisture. Idling in the winter may not get it over 200. Ah, this makes sense. Thank you.
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Nov 8, 2017 19:59
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CornHolio posted:hah, the clock is one of the few things in this car that would draw power that I can think of, and it doesn't work. Still... would the battery maintain its charge over, say, four months if it's disconnected?
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Nov 8, 2017 20:05
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If in doubt, why not leave it at home and give it a trickle charge every now and then. Then bring it to the car when you want to start it every few weeks?
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Nov 8, 2017 20:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Rotate the tires again, see if it continues. If it doesn't, you have a tire that's wearing funny. I'm bringing it back to my dealer because it's time for a routine oil change, tire rotation and inspection. Should I mention the drifting? I'm a bit paranoid of them saying "it's unfit to drive until you pay us". My AC filter needed a change and the guy practically had a heart attack showing it to me. "You need to change this TODAY, sir". I'd feel far more comfortable bringing it to a local shop that has great reviews but it needs it needs an oil change anyway.
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Nov 8, 2017 20:43
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spog posted:If in doubt, why not leave it at home and give it a trickle charge every now and then. Mostly just convenience and space
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Nov 8, 2017 21:45
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CornHolio posted:Mostly just convenience and space Then leave it there, disconnected, and check it every couple of months when you give the car a start and a warm up. Don't forget to move it back and forwards a little to prevent the brakes from seizing too bad. If it starts going flat, you can always take it home and give it a top up.
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Nov 8, 2017 22:09
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Anyone know what might cause brake fluid to not make it from the master to the rear wheels? I disconnected the rear rubber lines but not a drop is coming out. The pedal also goes to the floor pretty easily. Checked the master on the bench and it works fine. I'm suspecting either the proportioning valve or internally rusted lines.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Nov 8, 2017 |
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Nov 8, 2017 23:46
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Autoexec.bat posted:Anyone know what might cause brake fluid to not make it from the master to the rear wheels? I disconnected the rear rubber lines but not a drop is coming out. The pedal also goes to the floor pretty easily. Checked the master on the bench and it works fine. Sounds like there's a hole somewhere... that or your MC is just not primed and pumping fluid. How many bottles did you go through? Can you prime your lines first? Pour fluid into the line and use a suction device to suck the fluid through the system. You should do this at all 4 wheels, not just the rear. Start at the rear, but do all 4 wheels. E: yeah proportioning valve could be a problem.
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Nov 8, 2017 23:55
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Breakfast Feud posted:Could you call the dealership and give them your VIN? Call them like you're gonna buy the part yourself, ask for the part # "for your mechanic" or something. Apparently no, they said they don't have a clue, they just put the VIN in and then get the part sent to them.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:09
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I hit a rock with my Ford Fiesta 2014 and this is the aftermath: Should I be worried? I was able to drive home without any issues and there are no leaks a few hours later.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:14
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Holy poo poo what a rock 
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Nov 9, 2017 03:19
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It was more of a solid cinder block in the middle of the street.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:21
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I'd maybe consider getting an alignment but it doesn't seem to have smashed anything that could leak.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:51
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Thats a transmission mount? And the transmission case is cracked? You might want to contact insurance or have a body shop check it out.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:54
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Is that a crack? If it is then yeah nevermind me, go get that poo poo checked.
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Nov 9, 2017 04:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Vibrating under load is a pretty good test. If everything in the rearview mirror is blurry when you lay on the gas, that's a bingo. Ok, so I did a closer inspection and CV joints are definitely the culprit. The right side is terrible. Strangely there's still some play in the right wheel even after I changed the tie rod. It looks like I didn't get the boot on all the way so road gunk has most likely made its way inside and I think I'm Just gonna say gently caress it and replace a bunch of parts. The left side tie rod inner doesn't feel loose, but the boot looks kinda greasy at the bottom so I feel like if I'm going to have everything apart I might as well do it. I'm thinking: Left and right inner/outer tie rods Left and right CV half shafts Ball joints and control arm bushings Any other related items that really should get replaced considering they're all original parts with 200k miles on them?
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Nov 9, 2017 04:37
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Oh welp. Thanks for the advice.
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Nov 9, 2017 04:39
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Action Man posted:Ok, so I did a closer inspection and CV joints are definitely the culprit. The right side is terrible. Replace the lower control arms instead of the ball joints and bushings (the new ones will come with both pre-installed). You'll save a ton of time and frustration. You're already removing the LCA anyway to get at the bushings, it's so much easier to just have a new one ready to go on instead of having to torch out the old bushing, press a new one in, press the old ball joint out, press a new one in, re-mount it, etc.... Shocks and struts may not be a terrible idea, but if you have mostly highway miles they still have some life left in them. What direction is the play in on the wheel? If it's up/down only, you've got a worn out ball joint. Left/right only would be something with the tie rod. All directions would be the wheel bearing (or a combination of all of these).
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Nov 9, 2017 08:59
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Double post (sorry!), but got my own stupid question. My car (06 Saturn Ion w/the 2.2 Ecotec) has an in-line surge tank instead of a coolant overflow tank (like most GMs). I've been losing a small amount of coolant lately, with no visible leaks. I'm having to top it off a little bit (maybe a cup or so?) every couple of weeks to keep the low coolant warning away. No coolant in the oil that I can see, spark plugs don't look abnormal, exhaust doesn't smell sweet, no steam from the exhaust, and no bubbles coming up into the surge tank, so I think the head gasket can probably be ruled out for now. I've noticed when removing the surge tank cap, there's no pressure release at all, even with the engine hot, fresh off the highway and shut off immediately (I know normally you NEVER remove a cap with a hot engine, but I wanted to see if it hissed). I'm suspecting the cap has gone bad and isn't holding pressure; it's supposed to hold 15 PSI. It's cheap enough (  for an OEM one from Amazon) that I'm going to go ahead and throw a new one at it, but think this may be the issue? I do get an occasional whiff of coolant when I get out of the car, but the surge tank is on the drivers side. It's never overheated (since I've owned it anyway).e: I'm well aware that the coolant level sensor is prone to failure on these cars; however, the level in the surge tank is visibly low when the low coolant warning comes on. Normal level is about 1/2 full, it starts bitching when it's down to about 1/4 full. So the sensor is still working fine (for now... I may have the only Ion on the road with this many miles with a functioning original coolant sensor...) e2: yes, I am still running Dexcool (Prestone Dexcool in my case), but it's been replaced once about 3 years ago (drained both the radiator and block, ran some water through, refilled with full strength Prestone Dexcool and distilled water for a 50/50 mix), and I was planning to do the same next week, with Prestone Dexcool. Or some other kind of long-life coolant, it just seems easier to keep using Dexcool-compatible coolant (more so I don't have to spend an hour flushing the system). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 09:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Double post (sorry!), but got my own stupid question. Could it have cracked or sprung a leak in a hose or clamp somewhere and is steaming off while driving, also keeping the tank pressure down? I'd consider getting one of those UV contrast kits from Amazon and chasing it down if the cap doesn't work. Also, looks like piecemeal-ing the kit together is more cost effective: https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...rds=uv+leak+kit https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...L70_&dpSrc=srch
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Nov 9, 2017 13:55
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At 190k and 12 yrs old (2006 model year, but built 6/05), it's not exactly unheard of to have a leak, and the hoses have never been replaced (I removed the lower radiator hose once when I changed the thermostat, but otherwise I don't think they've ever been touched). But I've looked over the ones I could find from above, and didn't see any signs of leaks. Admittedly, I didn't get under the car while looking for leaks the other day, just looked from above. The last time I was actually under the car was when I changed the thermostat, a bit over 3 years ago. The engine is pretty drat simple for a fairly modern engine, so there's not a whole lot of hoses. It's really nice only having a couple of vacuum lines. I went ahead and ordered the new cap; once it shows up, I'll do the planned drain/quick flush/refill, and I'll throw some UV dye in at the same time. I can't see the dye hurting anything. I already have a UV light and glasses from when I was chasing an AC leak on my mother's car, so I only need the dye. I'd like to go ahead and replace all of the hoses at this point (just due to age), and maybe even the radiator, but I can't afford to do that at the moment.  All of the hoses I've touched still feel soft and pliable, nothing is crunchy (yet).e: new cap should be here Saturday. Just crossing my fingers that the cap is the issue... and crossing my balls hoping that the system suddenly having pressure again (assuming the cap is the issue) doesn't pop anything. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 14:17
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Another stupid question about storing a car: How much fuel should I leave in the car? I plan on putting in some fuel stabilizer but should it be a half tank, a full tank, or what?
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Nov 9, 2017 14:33
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As full as possible I thought
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Nov 9, 2017 14:33
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Yeah, the fuel system will "breathe" a bit due to temperature changes, but through the charcoal canister so you shouldn't lose much vapor pressure from the gas - which is what usually makes it go bad. The potential problems come from the tiny bits of moisture that come in with the new air, which can condense into the tank if the temperature drops low enough. Fuel stabilizers keep that water emulsified so it doesn't build up as a layer at the bottom. Getting the tank as full as possible will minimize the amount of air exchange going on and thus the amount of potential condensation in the tank.
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Nov 9, 2017 14:40
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Replace the lower control arms instead of the ball joints and bushings (the new ones will come with both pre-installed). You'll save a ton of time and frustration. You're already removing the LCA anyway to get at the bushings, it's so much easier to just have a new one ready to go on instead of having to torch out the old bushing, press a new one in, press the old ball joint out, press a new one in, re-mount it, etc.... Its just side to side. So despite just changing the tie rod, I think I messed it up when I did it. I didn't get the boot on all the way somehow, also may not have tightened it correctly. I think the bearings are fine still, they don't make the bad bearing noise and there's no movement other than side to side. Also I can see the tie rod move when I rock the wheel back and forth so I must've made some series of errors installing it. also thanks for the tip on the control arms
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Nov 9, 2017 15:14
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The boot is just to keep dirt out, nothing more. That uh.... well you might want to look at the steering rack. An alignment shop should be able to tell you if anything is loose, though.
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Nov 9, 2017 16:35
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I'm trying to sell my old Pontiac G8 GT from 2008 with 132k miles on it right now and I'm having a really tough time on craigslist and cargurus. Lots of low ballers and people ghosting me and stuff, problems I havent had selling the last 3 cars I've owned on craigslist. Are there any other options for selling it myself that are easier? I'm ready to let it go without hunting for the most amount of money now and I was wondering if a consignment lot or something would make sense? Or would I likely end up getting less money that route than just accepting the lowball offer? Any other possibilities I'm overlooking?
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Nov 9, 2017 18:17
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Chernabog posted:I hit a rock with my Ford Fiesta 2014 and this is the aftermath: That subframe could be tweaked. Definitely get it looked at and probably insurance involved.
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Nov 9, 2017 18:20
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I already took it to the mechanic. The cracked piece is still attached with the bolt so they are going to evaluate if it can be fixed without replacing the whole piece. The middle frame will be checked to see if any adjustments are needed.
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Nov 9, 2017 18:58
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Chernabog posted:I already took it to the mechanic. The cracked piece is still attached with the bolt so they are going to evaluate if it can be fixed without replacing the whole piece. The middle frame will be checked to see if any adjustments are needed. Out of curiosity, is that a Fiesta ST ?
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Nov 9, 2017 19:23
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I did something bad and I need to see how hosed I am. I had to pick up something in my... pickup for my wife and it had an oil leak. I knew this before I left, so I topped it off before I left and went and picked up her stuff about 20 minutes away. On the way back, about 10 minutes from home, the engine started making a bad sound, like a clattering sound. I got home, and sure enough, the dipstick showed the oil was empty. I didn't think the leak was that bad, but I was wrong. So how hosed is my truck? It's a 1988 Ford F150 5L rust bucket. It won't win any contests, but I like it. Also, what was that sound?
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Nov 9, 2017 20:11
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kid sinister posted:I did something bad and I need to see how hosed I am. I had to pick up something in my... pickup for my wife and it had an oil leak. I knew this before I left, so I topped it off before I left and went and picked up her stuff about 20 minutes away. On the way back, about 10 minutes from home, the engine started making a bad sound, like a clattering sound. I got home, and sure enough, the dipstick showed the oil was empty. I didn't think the leak was that bad, but I was wrong. 
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Nov 9, 2017 20:30
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It's a Fiesta Titanium
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Nov 9, 2017 20:32
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kid sinister posted:I did something bad and I need to see how hosed I am. I had to pick up something in my... pickup for my wife and it had an oil leak. I knew this before I left, so I topped it off before I left and went and picked up her stuff about 20 minutes away. On the way back, about 10 minutes from home, the engine started making a bad sound, like a clattering sound. I got home, and sure enough, the dipstick showed the oil was empty. I didn't think the leak was that bad, but I was wrong. The sound of your hopes and dreams vanishing. Probably wiped a main or rod bearing. If you want to try and make this one live, throw some fresh oil in it, see if it quiets down at all. If it does, change the oil and maybe you're lucky. Otherwise... at least used 302s should be cheap and common.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:34
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So I need to replace the spoiler on my 2005 Subaru Outback. I called certifit and they told me to order one online. Any recommendations on where I can go to order this?
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Nov 9, 2017 21:29
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kid sinister posted:I did something bad and I need to see how hosed I am. I had to pick up something in my... pickup for my wife and it had an oil leak. I knew this before I left, so I topped it off before I left and went and picked up her stuff about 20 minutes away. On the way back, about 10 minutes from home, the engine started making a bad sound, like a clattering sound. I got home, and sure enough, the dipstick showed the oil was empty. I didn't think the leak was that bad, but I was wrong. Just refill it with oil and see what happens, it might be fine. My first car had a 289 and I was a poor teenager and ran it out of oil tons of times enough so the lifters were clacking (That's the sound you heard) and it was always fine when I put oil back in. Windsors can take massive abuse and keep going.
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Nov 9, 2017 22:33
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Tetramin posted:So I need to replace the spoiler on my 2005 Subaru Outback. I called certifit and they told me to order one online. Any recommendations on where I can go to order this? Car-part.com comes to mind - it's basically a listing for scrap yards. Plug in your make/model/year and what part you need and it spits out a listing of yards with the part on hand. Regarding certifit - I'm not sure if it's just the Cleveland location but every time I've bought parts from them I've been left wondering how they remain profitable, much less in business. I don't think I've ever spoken with someone there to confirm parts availability without first calling, being placed on hold and then hung up on at least 5 times. Also if they don't have the part you need in stock they can't order a replacement and they have no idea when they will receive one - last time I tried buying a part from them the lady literally told me "could be anywhere from three weeks to six months before we have another one."
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Nov 9, 2017 22:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:Otherwise... at least used 302s should be cheap and common. Best selling vehicle in America since forever, plus Ford used that engine for like 40 years. You know, I was thinking about pulling the engine just to be able to easily reach all of the bolts to fix that oil leak. Let's say I did bork the engine and need a new one. ...What do I do with the old one?
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Nov 10, 2017 00:10
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