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Some good Zaku advice ITT, it warms my cold little putty-like heart.
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Nov 8, 2017 20:13
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:23 |
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Omg just put a matte topcoat on for the first time Matte topcoat is the best idea anyone has ever had
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Nov 9, 2017 00:16
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Marx Headroom posted:Omg just put a matte topcoat on for the first time Yeah. People will look at it and think it's painted, even though it's not painted. Dogs think it's bacon!
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Nov 9, 2017 00:18
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Just keep in mind that you should first seal with a gloss/semigloss coat if you have any linework/decals to protect. Matte is probably the worst top coat for actually protecting stuff.
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Nov 9, 2017 00:27
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Marx Headroom posted:Omg just put a matte topcoat on for the first time yeah! Neurolimal posted:Just keep in mind that you should first seal with a gloss/semigloss coat if you have any linework/decals to protect. Matte is probably the worst top coat for actually protecting stuff. ... oops
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Nov 9, 2017 06:48
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punchymcpunch posted:yeah! Dont worry, the matte wont ruin linework/decals, just do a ad job protecting them  So long as you're careful with the finished piece you should be AOK
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Nov 9, 2017 07:14
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Yeah, I've never done anything more than matte coat, and I've never had a problem with all my water slides staying right where they're supposed to. Matte spray is vexxing/expensive enough on its own, if I had to add more layers I might kill myself. Also with my track record I'm sure I'd fuse something or make a transformation no longer work.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:00
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To be fair I usually just do straight matte coat and I haven't really screwed up decals or linework afterwards. That said I kind of just put them on the shelf after I'm done and don't touch them. I don't really "play" with Gundam model kids because they really aren't toys and can be kind of fragile. I mean, I've broken plenty of bits off of them anyway without even doing that. I also usually just give a kit one particular weapon and never bother using the extra ones ever. Like, let's say you have a GM Sniper. You are always going to give him the sniper rifle. You're not ever gonna use that machine gun or beam sabers. Or let's say you have a Dom. You're going to have it hold a bazooka. 98% of the time they're onscreen, Doms have a bazooka.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:02
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I really want to get that sniper variant with a pistol and have that be its weapon.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:29
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Finished building the RG Unicorn, good god do I love this kit:      
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Nov 10, 2017 07:21
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Beautiful work. Did you get the decals or are those the stickers?
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Nov 10, 2017 08:06
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Those are definitely stickers.
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Nov 10, 2017 08:08
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Booyah- posted:Beautiful work. Did you get the decals or are those the stickers? ACES CURE PLANES posted:Those are definitely stickers. Thank you and yeah, I dont mind them since they look pretty good on white surfaces. Plus I'm not bothered by stickers like that anyway.
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Nov 10, 2017 08:17
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Stickers totally stand out to me, little things like the frays at the edge of parts and the added thickness stands out, but that's my thing. So long as you keep it in a case or at least keep it away from light and dust, you'll never have to worry about things peeling or discoloring. I'll still take stickers over dry rub decals though, holy poo poo, those are the literal worst.
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Nov 10, 2017 08:46
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I'm the exact opposite and I'll take dry rub over stickers any day of the week. Dry rub decals don't stand out so much. Sticker are almost always too thick and distracting. I know they can be a pain, but better to have something that at least can look good, as opposed to something that (in my opinion) always looks like rear end.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:11
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Dry rubs look way better than stickers but yes, they are a pain and are easy to screw up. Well, dry rubs look much better provided you don't mess them up lol I mean, waterslides are by far the best, but everybody knows that. That said, I have never fully decked out a Ver. Ka kit with all the provided waterslides because that's just nuts. It would take me a month just to do all the decals haha I'm fine with stickers on like, HGUC kits because I usually just straight build those and don't bother putting a lot of effort into them. If it's a MG then I'll put some more effort into it because I want them to look nice. asterioth posted:Finished building the RG Unicorn, good god do I love this kit: That action base with the explosions is freakin' sick.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:15
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Gammatron 64 posted:That action base with the explosions is freakin' sick. Yeah that thing is cool as heck Nice job all around
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Nov 10, 2017 15:28
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Yo US people please take this survey so we can get P-Bandai stateside: WOO
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Nov 11, 2017 05:57
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I did my part
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Nov 11, 2017 06:55
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Midjack posted:The Southern California Gundam Model Competition is Saturday, for any LA area people. Writeup Gallery Syfy covered it for some reason; I talked to that lady but didn't know she was writing an article. She actually entered a couple of things so it may have been incidental coverage.
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Nov 11, 2017 07:03
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https://twitter.com/TheTokuNet/status/929014296511729664
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Nov 11, 2017 15:19
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It's me, I'm the guy who filled out that survey, got to the end and clicked "no" to whether I would buy directly from P-Bandai.
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Nov 11, 2017 16:07
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Guy Goodbody posted:It's me, I'm the guy who filled out that survey, got to the end and clicked "no" to whether I would buy directly from P-Bandai. Thanks for your service. o7
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Nov 11, 2017 17:36
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Anyone have any tips for hand brushing with tamiya clear paints? I've tried 50:50 paint to 91% isopropyl and it seems like it's too thin. Less iso and it leaves some nasty brush marks.
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Nov 12, 2017 01:19
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asterioth posted:Anyone have any tips for hand brushing with tamiya clear paints? I've tried 50:50 paint to 91% isopropyl and it seems like it's too thin. Less iso and it leaves some nasty brush marks. You'll want to do 50/50 and do multiple layers, it's a little annoying but when the clear paints are too thick they get really tacky to the brush and hold brush strokes.
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Nov 12, 2017 01:44
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Haven't done clear, but my experience with hand painting Tamiya is 50/50 with Tamiya thinner, roughly about 4-5 coats to get good coverage. I leave at least 6 hours, majority a day between layers to ensure that it's doesn't pickup the lower layers when applying over the top.
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Nov 12, 2017 03:00
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asterioth posted:Anyone have any tips for hand brushing with tamiya clear paints? I've tried 50:50 paint to 91% isopropyl and it seems like it's too thin. Less iso and it leaves some nasty brush marks. Brush marks just mean your paint is drying too fast, instead of thinning you can take other precautions against that like painting in an area with more humidity, making sure there isn't a breeze going over the part, using more paint, or even just brushing more quickly and immediately stopping when the paint starts to tack (you can always add more coverage later when it's dry). My best results with Tamiya have been to rapidly put down a single, unthinned 'pool' of paint and mess with it as little as possible. The caveat for clears is that you have to be wary of areas on the geometry of the part that will pool more paint than the rest, resulting in a darker shade of the clear in those areas, but if you're just painting a simple eye or lens shape it's not a problem. I've also found that you need to mix Tamiya clears really really well and frequently, I stir furiously for at least a minute and give it a swish every minute or so afterwards since the top layer in the jar will start to tack; I normally use an electric mixer but the clears/glosses hold onto bubbles too well, though it's amazing for flats.
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Nov 12, 2017 04:58
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You might try using Tamiya thinner on clears, it has some additives in it to slow drying.
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Nov 12, 2017 06:14
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  This is what happens when you give me tons of options, I try to cram everything in at once. Curious to see if other people who haven't spent an hour trying to get it to fit think and if it works. I also spent about an hour to try and figure a way to put the GN Sword II onto the GN Long Rifle but it's impossible without slicing huge chunks off of the blade and the rifle, and I'm uncomfortable with that.
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Nov 12, 2017 12:43
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Neurolimal posted:Just keep in mind that you should first seal with a gloss/semigloss coat if you have any linework/decals to protect. Matte is probably the worst top coat for actually protecting stuff. Is top coat not sealant? Or is top coat just the literal name for the top most coat, which is sometimes sealant?
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Nov 12, 2017 18:56
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Top coat is a sealant, it's just the name given to it as it is literally the top most coast you'd be giving something to finish the job. The difference is clear coat dries smooth, where semi-flat and flat are much rougher in finish. Clear is better for waterslides to stick too and panel lining won't run in to the valleys of a flat coat. Basically you'll be doing prime/paint - clear coat - slides/decals/lining - final coat (clear/semi/flat) Exception being another clear and weathering before the final coat if your doing that.
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Nov 12, 2017 20:45
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Puddin posted:Top coat is a sealant, it's just the name given to it as it is literally the top most coast you'd be giving something to finish the job.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:27
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Matte is the least protective; think of friction and how sandpaper works. Matte is the roughest/most abrasive of the three finishes, so it's more likely to come off when touched and brushed against. You use matte on top of gloss when you want a matte look, but gloss protection.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:37
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Serenade posted:So then they can all be the very final coat, based on what visual appearance you want (clear/glossy/matte) but only some of them can be used before another coat of paint / details / decals (clear) and some of them are more protective than others (matte, so instead use matte on top of gloss)? Pretty much spot on. It's not that they're more protective, that will be more the type of paint (acrylic/lacquer/enamel) It's more about what you need to use it for, a slick surface is going to be easier to work with if your adding some finishing touches. Like if you aren't painting and just want to decal and panel line, there's no real need to do a clear top, decal, then final top. You could just do them and hit it with the final coat to seal it all in. I guess if you think of clear/top coats as a protective layer to not damage prior work. Usually your paint a d top coats will be of differing makeups of paints so that if you do make a mistake, you can clean it up without eating into the underlying layers. As an example, if you prime and paint using acrylics, cover it with a lacquer clear coat, if you were to panel line with an acrylic or enamel, if you messed up you could use the thinner for your panel lines paint to clear it up without eating into your base coat. Different thinners for different paints won't react with other styles. But if you did it all lacquer, you could run into problems with removing all the layers. Apologies if some of this doesn't make sense, phone posting while doing some work.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:53
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Not necessary a typical paint, but note that oil paints will very easily merge with enamel paints and create a forever-tacky gunky mess. Luckily AFAIK there isnt an enamel clear coat, but that's worth keeping in mind when figuring out when to clear-coat.
Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 23:26
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Now I think I get it. Besides airbrushing, this was the last thing I didn't really "get." Thanks y'all.
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Nov 13, 2017 02:20
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http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide this is a great resource for starting. There are heaps of tutorials on the net if you have a search. On a other note I just pre-ordered the lighting version of the PG exia and Im loving excited.
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Nov 13, 2017 03:18
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I hosed up and bought the wrong scale accessories so I bought a handful of high grade kits (and my first RG!) like an idiot because I don't wanna waste my tacticlol toys. Also I started the perfect grade Strike Gundam and I feel like I might? get this done before the PG Exia LED shows up.
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Nov 13, 2017 03:20
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My God Hands came in and I can now see why everyone raves about them. They're just so goddamn smooth.
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Nov 13, 2017 07:56
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:23 |
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Anyone wanna buy my last Exceed Model Zaku head? It's the Johnny Ridden one. Or I'll trade plus cash for interesting HGs.
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Nov 13, 2017 15:21
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