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Garage2Roadtrip posted:My craftsman needed a petcock between the tank and the carb ftfy. Today, I received a package from boxen containing the missing, unavailable-individually parts for my 2008 Crown Vic's rear door handles. They interface between the handle itself and the latch rod. He's a cool guy. Also, instead of the police department (AZ DPS) simply unplugging a single connector that exists in the driver's door B-pillar to disable the rear windows, they removed the window switches themselves and zip-tied them inside the doors. Cut the zip tie, pop them in the holes in the door panels, BAM working rear windows. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Nov 8, 2017 |
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Nov 8, 2017 22:19
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PaintVagrant posted:That oil filter location, can’t not make a mess yeah it gets all over the hoses and poo poo  glad i have smallish hands.
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Nov 8, 2017 22:59
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:My craftsman needed a fuel cutoff between the tank and the carb because bad gas + time/vibration prevented the needle from completely seating in the carb and it would just flush all the fuel into the crankcase. I have a feeling that replacing carb parts alone probably won't do the trick because they looked fine, so it they still leak the whole thing is fuckered. I'm just gonna pull the reflectors and mount it in the headlight housing though. It's just a solid piece of plastic that goes all the way across.
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Nov 8, 2017 23:32
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Took battery in to have tested @ Advance Auto. Person behind counter attempts to hook up clamps. Is unsuccessful. Other counter person informs her that she needed to screw on battery terminals first. Thank you baby jesus I didn't need a part on that visit.
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Nov 9, 2017 14:48
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C-Bangin' it 
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:oh you are motherfucking genius. I'll take your tip on the petcock if cleaning everything out didn't fix it. A new carb will prob make it stop leaking through for a while. Throw an inline filter on it too. Mine had the big single headlight plastic, with the non-reflective silver plastic behind that with two 1156 bulbs for lights. I didn't even disturb the OEM wiring and just used the spade connectors and connected them to the $17 lightbar.
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Nov 9, 2017 14:57
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sneakyfrog posted:I halfass washed my car and gave it its first babby oil change Nice white hot hatch.  I like the front plate.
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Nov 9, 2017 17:38
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Larrymer posted:Nice white hot hatch. thanks friend
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Nov 9, 2017 17:42
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:A new carb will prob make it stop leaking through for a while. Throw an inline filter on it too. What lightbar did you use?
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Nov 9, 2017 20:47
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Colostomy Bag posted:Took battery in to have tested @ Advance Auto. I thought this level of incompetence was only on display at Autozone. I tried to have a battery tested and the guy put the positive lead on the negative and vice versa. Apparently his tester didn't mind. I am willing to slap the cable leads out of someone's hand if they try to hook the car up to the battery backwards though.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:ftfy. I think that the way that the actual handles interface with the mechanism is clever - it doesn't require either popping the inside handle through the door panel, or disconnecting rods. And the AZDPS car fitters are idiots. That B-pillar panel just pops off, and the plug is right there. It's also usually unplugged from the factory on P71s... Now I'm beginning to wonder if their outfitter removed the door handle mechanisms, or if that just became a thing on the later-than-min models. I've never heard of the mechanisms being missing, just the lock and door actuator rods.
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Nov 9, 2017 23:09
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I was thinking about doing exactly this. Got it on "today's deals", price has gone up since then. Maybe there's a cheaper one than this? But this one works for sure with these mowers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE47FVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 here's a cheaper one: https://www.amazon.com/Senlips-Driv...L70_&dpSrc=srch
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Nov 9, 2017 23:17
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  Four years later I'm going to have to say that poo poo'S PRETTY FAST YO
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Nov 9, 2017 23:20
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The door trim panels and handles themselves were supplied from the auction (thrown in the trunk) but the handles are wrong for the door panels themselves. The handles are too "tall" for the door panels. When I ebay search 03-11 rear interior handles, I see photos like this: The parts I've circled, on my handles, are about twice as long on mine, as well as the recess for the bolt that holds the handle to the mechanism. So, with the panels and handles installed, the handles float out about 4-5mm from the plastic of the door panel itself. The driver's door was also replaced, as the interior panel doesn't have the same sun damage, and the tint on the window is brand new versus the other three windows where it's streaked badly. The driver's seat also has a tear where the left rear pocket of pants go, and has been clearly cleaned with bleach. There were also .40 S&W shells all over the interior, as well as clogging the wiper motor cowl drain flap (causing the motor logic board to corrode, loving my wipers up):    (complete with redneck diamonds under the rubber mat in the interior) There are also holes for the rear bars in the door, and the rear driver's side window tint is scratched (like by a stilletto or knife) and there are a few piercing dents/scratches on the door sheet metal on the inside. I wonder if the car was set up with nonstandard interior panels, or hastily converted from a DPS cruiser to a Palo Verde patrol car/holding car (there were multiple Palo Verde location Wendy's Baconator + Fanta receipts inside dating from 2008-2011, and around the driver's seat it was sticky with grape soda) with plywood or OSB panels. I've seen photos of that on Google. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 23:31
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
i really really like that surf blue. and the wheels and tires are cheeky as gently caress but 
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Nov 9, 2017 23:37
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Got it on "today's deals", price has gone up since then. Maybe there's a cheaper one than this? But this one works for sure with these mowers. Thank you much. I'd be worried about 120+ watts being too much for that harness+relay, but it's honestly probably fine right?
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Nov 10, 2017 00:07
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Changed both oxygen sensors on the FXT. Had been having very light surging under almost-closed throttle situations, and the conclusion was front sensor was going bad. Rear sensor didn’t NEED to be changed but it was cheap and I was under the car. The rear one had been replaced at some point, but the front one was original with 210k miles. Not as rusted in as I expected, took about 45 minutes to do both. 
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Nov 10, 2017 02:43
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Thank you much. I'd be worried about 120+ watts being too much for that harness+relay, but it's honestly probably fine right? I've mowed with it on for over 6 hours with no perceivable loss of magneto power, or damage to the wiring. Something tells me it's 120W of output, not input too, because LEDs.
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Nov 10, 2017 03:38
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 Washed it, and I'm pretty sure this is the first time it's been washed in a very, very long time. Every surface has hard water-like film, including the glass. It's going to need another wash, badly needs a buffing and wax and probably just a respray because the paint is pretty thin. With the glass I'm going to have to vinegar it up because they look and feel like an old shower door. Took a razor to it originally to get the grease pencil marks off the window from the port, but you can scrape away down to the actual glass anywhere you'd like.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:08
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Colostomy Bag posted:Took battery in to have tested @ Advance Auto. It was almost 9-12 months before I realized our big tester in the back had connectors for side posts built into the clamps. Tbh, I'd probably have fun watching a new person try to figure out how to attach alligator clamps to a side post for a minute or so before helping. Vanagoon posted:I thought this level of incompetence was only on display at Autozone. I tried to have a battery tested and the guy put the positive lead on the negative and vice versa. Apparently his tester didn't mind. I am willing to slap the cable leads out of someone's hand if they try to hook the car up to the battery backwards though. I'm tempted to try this now on a battery in backstock. Also I hate to say it, but this is one reason I haven't had our new person changing batteries. Shes sharp as hell, but had extremely limited automotive knowledge when we hired her. I'd love to help teach her and keep an eye on her for her first few battery changes, but I can't stay outside during the closing shift to do it. One of these days. 
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Nov 10, 2017 08:38
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Vanagoon posted:I thought this level of incompetence was only on display at Autozone. I tried to have a battery tested and the guy put the positive lead on the negative and vice versa. Apparently his tester didn't mind. I am willing to slap the cable leads out of someone's hand if they try to hook the car up to the battery backwards though. Around here Advance and Autozone are neck and neck for the honor of facepalm moments. Heaven forbid you walk in with a part number, they'll look at ya like you landed from Mars. Napa always kicks rear end though. I don't know who started Rockauto.com, but they deserve sainthood.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:44
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Cop Porn Popper posted:
I dunno, nowadays you would have to try drat hard to hook one up backwards. Top posts cable length would need to stretch across. Side posts, same sort of thing.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:48
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KakerMix posted:
I have had pretty good luck cleaning windows with claybar.
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Nov 10, 2017 16:14
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Colostomy Bag posted:I dunno, nowadays you would have to try drat hard to hook one up backwards. Top posts cable length would need to stretch across. Side posts, same sort of thing. Try grabbing a group 24 battery for a car that needs a 24F.. or vice versa. Let me know how that ends.  they're the same battery, except the polarity is reversed
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Nov 10, 2017 16:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Try grabbing a group 24 battery for a car that needs a 24F.. or vice versa. Let me know how that ends. Yeah, never thought of that situation of picking the wrong one to begin with.
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Nov 10, 2017 16:24
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, never thought of that situation of picking the wrong one to begin with. I prefer bi-polar batteries 
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Nov 10, 2017 16:59
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chrisgt posted:I have had pretty good luck cleaning windows with claybar. I saw people talking about that too but then read that a claybar shouldn't be used on older windows because the pits could trap the claybar material and if that happens it isn't ever coming out.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:12
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They make glass polish. I've used the 3m stuff, but I know Meguir's and other brands make some also. It's kinda what I use on my watch crystals, only more robust.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:44
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Steel wool is cheap, and works pretty well.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:53
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God I can't think of it now but 20 years ago the flavor of the day was some cleanser and some newspaper.
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Nov 10, 2017 18:04
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Colostomy Bag posted:God I can't think of it now but 20 years ago the flavor of the day was some cleanser and some newspaper. Ajax?
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Nov 10, 2017 18:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, never thought of that situation of picking the wrong one to begin with. To be fair, they both have "24" in the designation, and look identical. The only difference between them is the polarity. I've made that mistake before, but thankfully the only damage was to my pants (lots of sparks when I tried to hook it up). In my case, a parts store handed me the wrong battery.
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Nov 10, 2017 18:30
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EvilBeard posted:Ajax? No I know it wasn't Ajax, it was some odd-ball thing that you'd find on the bottom shelf and I think it came in a yellow can. My google-fu is lacking. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:To be fair, they both have "24" in the designation, and look identical. The only difference between them is the polarity. Yep, done it once as well as dropping a wrench across the terminals. One of those teaching moments where you do it once and never again.
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Nov 10, 2017 19:12
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Bar Keepers Friend It won't scratch most surfaces
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Nov 10, 2017 19:19
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sneakyfrog posted:i really really like that surf blue. I really like the colour too, I'm not even sure if it's a factory colour but Bright Blue seems to be the closest match. I wasn't planning on putting front disc brakes so that made the track wider and now my fender flares might be too small :/ It ran pretty well, considering its the first time it's been on the road with the new drivetrain/brakes/steering/suspension bits. I had to get it to storage before snowfall but it all worked out.
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Nov 10, 2017 19:26
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EvilBeard posted:They make glass polish. I've used the 3m stuff, but I know Meguir's and other brands make some also. It's kinda what I use on my watch crystals, only more robust. Wasabi the J posted:Steel wool is cheap, and works pretty well. Goober Peas posted:Bar Keepers Friend Thanks for the suggestions guys, I had some Bar Keeper's Friend and gave that a shot, worked pretty well. Tried steel wool as well and that worked about as well but without the chemical aspect of Bar Keeper's. I think I'm going to have to run the wool over the windows multiple times to get them cleaned up, have to do the inside of the windows too because of course    This is what I'm working with. I was joking when I said it's never been washed but as I spend more time with it I'm starting to think that might actually be the truth.
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Nov 11, 2017 02:07
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:oh you are motherfucking genius. I'll take your tip on the petcock if cleaning everything out didn't fix it. On these carbs, they have an o-ring for the needle seat area (like on motorcycles) either integrated with the bowl o-ring or separate from it, assuming this is the carb with the plastic internals. This is always the problem part and replacing it keeps it from bleeding all the fuel out into the cylinder/case.
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Nov 11, 2017 04:38
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Swapped the snow tires onto the Roadmaster and replaced the bad harmonic balancer on the Comanche. Then I tried to replace the thermostat so the heat will work and the drat thing will get more than 14mpg. So you know that feeling you get when you try and turn a Really Important Bolt and the head turns a tiny bit, but you know deep down that the end of the bolt isn't turning and you're in for a horrible time if you keep tempting fate and give it another twist? And your stomach does a backflip and the back of your mind goes NO YOU IDIOT STOP loving WITH IT? Yep. Both thermostat housing bolts. I guess I'm not gonna have heat in it this winter... For once I backed off instead of diving in headfirst. Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can shock them loose with a hammer and punch axially on the head, then chop the heads off and chisel the thermostat housing off so I can pull the bolts with vise grips. They are probably just seized into the cast aluminum housing, not rusted into the head... Unless the stupid dickhead previous owner jbwelded them in or something.
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Nov 12, 2017 02:58
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kastein posted:Unless the stupid dickhead previous owner jbwelded them in or something. This is definitely what happened.
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Nov 12, 2017 04:52
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Last week I tore down the intake side of the running Starion. Decided to throw it back together today. Cleaned the intake side of the head, and threw a new gasket on  Cleaned up the intake manifold   Cleaned up the throttle body and found a gasket for it  Threw that junk together  Holy poo poo it runs. https://vimeo.com/242487269
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Nov 12, 2017 23:20
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I made it mine: 1985 Audi 100 CS quattro, and it's a beauty! No rust under the car and it runs like a freight train. I've been looking for one of those since I sold my old one:  
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Nov 12, 2017 23:30
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