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Primo Itch posted:Anybody with experience with cokin filters? I'm trying to get a more streamlined and practical way of using filters for Black and White film than stacking two or three filters of varied sizes on a lens that's also a different size and having to fuzz out with tons of step up and down rings every time I chance lenses or decide I want a Orange 18 instead of a Red 25 or a ND4 instead of a ND8 (you get the idea)... The fact that my collection of filters is a mix and match of whatever I could get on the cheap is a good reason for that mess, but I'm trying to get a more intuitive flow to my process and thinking that cokin will just make everything easier... Cokin brand ones are usually pretty cheap soft resin. I'd recommend you look into Hitech 85 or Lee five7 filters. I got into a Hitech holder, 72mm ring, and the three ND grads I wanted for around $100.
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Nov 3, 2017 02:55
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If you're talking about square filters, I use them a lot. I have a Lee set (bought from a Dorkroom Goon) and they are wonderful. I do a lot of wide-angle stuff with medium format cameras and the filter holder on a WA adapter is just fine. You obviously still need different adapters for different thread sizes but you only have one set of actual filters and one holder. They aren't cheap though but I would say that they are worth the price - and some filter types like grads really don't work too well as round filters.
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Nov 3, 2017 11:06
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8th-snype posted:Actually of the actual DSLR systems canon is probably the best for adapting old manual glass, the EOS mount's registration distance lets them obtain infinity focus with nearly anything. I mean yeah it's not as good at focus peaking on mirrorless or anything but it's serviceable. The one problem with that plan being that macro lenses hold their value far better than lots of other old glass so picking up something that will focus 1:1 isn't really any cheap if you are adapting. Canon's manual-focus FD mount lenses became "orphaned" by the switch to autofocus. This tends to lower their value on the modern market compared to readily-useable Pentax K- or Nikon F-mount lenses, or those Minoltas for Sony users. Other companies went bust at some point around the shift to autofocus or prior to that, and are likewise orphaned because no big camera manufacturer picked up the licenses / patents / machine-tools to keep those systems going. Lenses for Contax/Yashica (C/Y-mount) or Konica (AR-mount) cameras are popular among mirrorless-shooters because without modern DSLRs competing for that glass, some pretty nice lenses can be found for cheap. This is also an excellent reason to buy an old 35mm film SLR and shoot film. Just do this anyways. This Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_mount includes a list of pretty much all camera mounts, sorteable by things like flange focal distance, which is an important factor for adapting old glass to new cameras - basically, short modern camera bodies (such as mirrorless) have room for an adaptor between the camera and the lens, without the need for corrective lenses. As a general rule, every piece of glass between the subject and the sensor has a chance to reduce image quality, and is very unlikely to improve image quality. I'm not going to get all spergy about definitions here, but FFL and registration distance are, obviously, related concepts. Macro lenses are popular and people are willing to put the work into adapting them. Also, the flange focal length and adaptors and so forth matters mainly for infinity focus - and lots of macro shooters never focus at infinity anyways (you can't through extension tubes) so it's less of a concern. A too-long adaptor loses infinity focus but increases magnification and decreases minimum focus distance, two things macro lenses are supposed to do anyways, so if you can find a decent orphan-mount lens that's NOT a macro lens, and an adaptor that will mate your camera to that lens even if the length (thickness) of that adaptor is wrong, you can use the setup for macro shots. Writing all this out (procrastination! weeee!) makes me want to blow money on wacky 1970's lenses.
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Nov 3, 2017 16:00
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Canon's aim-assist sucks (the focus confirmation pips on my 40D were never accurate), you need to use stopdown metering because they don't have any native lenses, and if you use a split-prism screen to help the focus problems then stopdown metering darkens the prism and throws off the exposure metering so you are also going to have to shoot fully manual. Just buy a cheap NEX for your alt-glass needs, they are literally $150 and it's a 1000x better experience. The focus sparkling is really good, and the PDAF on the 5R and newer models is supposed to be fantastic. If you really want a DSLR, Pentax or Nikon are the obvious choices since they have auto-stopdown on their native lenses. Just make sure to get a model that can take a replacement focus screen. The entry-level models usually don't support this (without sending it to a repair shop). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Nov 3, 2017 |
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Nov 3, 2017 18:32
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ExecuDork posted:Sony bought Minolta's entire camera line, and while Minolta did change their mount for autofocus, the adaptor from SR (aka MC/MD) to A-mount is widely available, so modern Sony DSLRs can wear old Minolta (and third-party Minolta-mount) glass very easily. Fake edit: I had thought the SR-Sony was simple, but wikipedia tells me those adaptors are actually teleconverters and affect image quality. In any case, every old Minolta lens I've seen for sale has the seller claiming, usually in all caps, that this lens works on Sony cameras. I don't think they're really lying. They are either lying or misinformed. The Minolta A mount is the same as Sony A but it is wildly different from SR/MD mount. I could see how it;s confusing though because if you just google it without much camera knowledge you get told they work. I have a Sony a230 with a busted steadyshot system I use to test Sony and Minolta lenses at work. I see way more broken FD/FL mount lenses than any other mount and in fact had to add an AE-1 to my tool kit just to test them because there is now way of knowing if the aperture stop down works on one without attaching it to a body. It's a shame because the A-1 and AE-1 are legit good cameras. Nikon and Pentax definitely hold their value far better than any other slr system, which imo Pentax at least deserves because their lenses are smaller and better built than almost anything in the same era. Nikon's old cameras rule but some of their lenses were giant and not very good. That being said I had an F2 with a 35mm PC Nikkor on my test bench yesterday and fawned over it like a schoolgirl.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:37
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8th-snype posted:They are either lying or misinformed. The Minolta A mount is the same as Sony A but it is wildly different from SR/MD mount. I could see how it;s confusing though because if you just google it without much camera knowledge you get told they work. I have a Sony a230 with a busted steadyshot system I use to test Sony and Minolta lenses at work. Thanks for the correction! I have a Minolta X-700 that I love because it was my first "real" camera, bought on consignment in 1998, plus a couple of other MC/MD Minoltas because I like them. Every once in a while I search my local Kijiji for "Minolta", just to see if anything interesting pops up, and about half of the ads will be a MAXXUM camera or lens with lots of notices about WORKS ON SONY!!!!! I ignore those ads because regardless of how easy/hard it is to put old glass on new cameras, new (i.e. 1995) glass on old (1980) cameras is mostly pointless. Paul MaudDib posted:Just buy a cheap NEX for your alt-glass needs, they are literally $150 and it's a 1000x better experience. The focus sparkling is really good, and the PDAF on the 5R and newer models is supposed to be fantastic.  Also, focus sparkling is the best name for a camera feature, even if it's a typo Sony should steal it and use it in their marketing.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:46
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ExecuDork posted:Thanks for the correction! I have a Minolta X-700 that I love because it was my first "real" camera, bought on consignment in 1998, plus a couple of other MC/MD Minoltas because I like them. Every once in a while I search my local Kijiji for "Minolta", just to see if anything interesting pops up, and about half of the ads will be a MAXXUM camera or lens with lots of notices about WORKS ON SONY!!!!! I ignore those ads because regardless of how easy/hard it is to put old glass on new cameras, new (i.e. 1995) glass on old (1980) cameras is mostly pointless. Yeah, Minolta's old manual SLRs are great (when they are inexplicably dead because of electronic faults) but the Maxxum ones really haven't impressed me in any way compared to their contemporaries from Nikon and Canon. I mean they had a few innovative features like mode cards but the controls are all so bad.
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Nov 3, 2017 21:04
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Paul MaudDib posted:If you really want a DSLR, Pentax or Nikon are the obvious choices since they have auto-stopdown on their native lenses. Just make sure to get a model that can take a replacement focus screen. The entry-level models usually don't support this (without sending it to a repair shop). The high end Nikon models also don't really support after market focusing screens. You can get one that's cut to sorta fit from focusingscreen.com but it's a bit nerve wracking to install, and if you're willing to do that they have options for almost everything, including cheaper models and Canon. The one I got on my D800 wasn't quite aligned perfectly and the shims it came with didn't get it right either so it's a YMMV kinda thing. So far on the D850 focus confirmation has actually been pretty solid, but it's still not as good as a legit manual focus screen.
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Nov 3, 2017 21:39
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On Minolta glass, any screw-drive Maxxum lens made since 1985 works on every A-mount body including digital (though xi lenses lose motor zoom on digital bodies). Lenses with 8-pin SSM or SAM motors work on Maxxum 7 (2000-ish) and later, or the Maxxum 9 with the SSM upgrade chip. This means you can use modern Sony lenses on those film bodies. People cling to the 90s era 80-200 HS G or the 200 f/2.8 G for good reason - excellent optics, fast focusing, and light weight. Just don't mind the focus gear noise... The SR mount has a shorter registration distance than A-mount, which makes adapting it with a dumb adapter virtually impossible without glass elements. However, there are people out there who make mount conversion kits and it was popular for a time to convert the 58 f/1.2 to A-mount. It's not that hard to convert it, but it does require some handiness with disassembling lens mounts. Though MD glass does work on NEX/E-mount bodies just fine with an adapter. I keep hoping someone will make an electromechanical adapter that returns full aperture and indexing control to these lenses but I guess the market is just too small. 8th-snype posted:Yeah, Minolta's old manual SLRs are great (when they are inexplicably dead because of electronic faults) but the Maxxum ones really haven't impressed me in any way compared to their contemporaries from Nikon and Canon. I mean they had a few innovative features like mode cards but the controls are all so bad. You want to look into the Maxxum 9, Maxxum 7, or the 600si. I would recommend the Maxxum 7 as a film A-mount SLR because it has SSM compatibility out of the box. Anything else is, IMO, not worth your time, except for the curiosity that is the Maxxum 9000. The Maxxum 7 in particular is a wonder to use especially if you're a knob freak. The xi series cameras are the ones with program cards and wacky buttons and I recommend avoiding them.
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Nov 3, 2017 23:38
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Yeah I mean in comparison to the lower end AF bodies Minolta made some weird choices. In my opinion the older EOS bodies like the 630 and 650 are the best buy because they are simple and elegant. I don't really shoot 35mm anymore but my job involves me testing and cleaning dozens of them weekly.
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Nov 4, 2017 01:16
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ExecuDork posted:You're really not helping my resurgent Gear Acquisition Syndrome here. I just moved and I've got nasty expenses to clear, no room in the budget for anything 'fun' but here you are telling me I could pick up a NEX and a handful of adaptors to open up my (stupid, flea-market-derived) collection of orphan glass collection to digital world. You don't have a GAS problem until you own thousands of dollars of bodies+lenses for Dead Gay Systems like the Pentax 67. And yet the literal second I see a 75/2.8 for less than $1000 I am hammering that checkout link so hard my bank's computer systems are going to explode. Last year I saw a listing for a pile of Kilfitt lens adapters, half of which go to mounts that I don't even own, and I dropped $150 on the spot because they come up approximately never and the only one I have currently goes to Arri Standard, a cine mount that is smaller than APS-C.  The good news is that my find includes a Hasselblad adapter so in theory I could use my surplus-sale Makro-Kilar 90/2.8 on a Pentax 645 or something. Which I also do not own... (apparently Kilfitt was some nerd's personal fiefdom with Leica-level quality control, and the 90/2.8 is one of the earliest lenses with aspheric surfaces.) But yeah don't even feel bad about dropping $20 on a Fotodiox adapter for whatever mount, that's actually a really good value as far as lenses go. You can cherrypick the best lenses from every system for not that much money these days because nobody wants manual-focus gear anymore. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Nov 4, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 05:58
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Travel related gear questions: I'm going on a 2 week trip to Africa in March and am figuring out how to best handle memory specifically for this trip, someone tell me if/where my thoughts go wrong here: Far as cards go I plan on setting the camera to record to both SD slots, getting a big (like 256GB) card to go in my second slot, and swap out top cards up top as I go along, leaving the big one to be backup #1. From there, my laptop options are either my Surface Book or Chromebook Plus, and I lean towards the chromebook both for weight and it being far more expendable. Idea there was to get a cardreader and external SSD, and use the chromebook to dump cards onto the SSD for backup #2. Cost aside, I can't see a lot of reason to get a 'rugged'/padded external HDD over an external SSD. I have heard SSDs are basically turbofucked if they fail though, in terms of recovering anything on them. I'm assuming for now most of the places we stay won't have wifi availability, but if they do I'll see about getting things uploaded overnight to Onedrive or Dropbox as backup #3. I'm not counting on this though.
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Nov 7, 2017 13:53
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DJExile posted:Travel related gear questions: I think you'll be safe without worrying about uploading anything overnight if you're running that second card and dropping stuff onto an external SSD. dakana fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 15:40
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I wouldn't worry about uploading anything for a 2 week trip unless I was being paid thousands of dollars to deliver those photos to a client. I think your running dual cards with a huge one as backup is great and will be fine. I wouldn't even worry about backing up to a HD locally. Just keep the other full cards in with your passport so if they get stolen you have much greater concerns anyways.
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Nov 9, 2017 19:58
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Rad, thanks yall 
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Nov 9, 2017 20:16
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As I think I mentioned elsewhere: it seems flash memory costs the same per GB, regardless of format I am mulling over whether I should be wearing a string of small USB thumbdrives on a necklace around my neck, or gluing microSD cards to my fingernails.
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Nov 10, 2017 20:51
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spog posted:a string of small USB thumbdrives on a necklace around my neck i love this idea
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Nov 10, 2017 21:00
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spog posted:As I think I mentioned elsewhere: it seems flash memory costs the same per GB, regardless of format Lol if you don't roll around 24/7 with a 256gb usb drive in your rear end just in case.
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Nov 11, 2017 00:22
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8th-snype posted:Lol if you don't roll around 24/7 with a 256gb usb drive in your rear end just in case. We finally know what the appendix is for
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Nov 11, 2017 00:53
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spog posted:As I think I mentioned elsewhere: it seems flash memory costs the same per GB, regardless of format Years ago I saw a thing that was an SD card in one end and a USB plug in the other. Can you still get those?
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Nov 11, 2017 10:21
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spog posted:As I think I mentioned elsewhere: it seems flash memory costs the same per GB, regardless of format Unless it's a CF, CFast, or XQD card, in which case you add a hundred goddamn dollars to the price.
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Nov 11, 2017 21:07
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I travel a lot for work and my workflow on less data intensive shoots is generally: offload cards I shot that day to fast 1tb SSD; once that's done, copy days files from SSD to a pair of 4TB mobile hard drives overnight; double check files on hard drives in the morning and format cards if it looks good; clear out SSD at EOD; repeat. Generally I don't bother with rugged hard drives as I have them in a padded bag anyway. The SSD is in the chain cause I was running into issues with offloading cards to the slower hard drives fast enough to finish everything at a reasonable hour. Doesn't seem that cost effective if you don't need blazing speed for some reason.
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Nov 11, 2017 23:13
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Im using a portable drive with a keypad on it, for encryption (and peace of mind). Might not be the best price/storage option but knowing no one can access my stuff if it gets stolen or lost is nice. I got mine through work luckily, they are fairly expensive.
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Nov 13, 2017 09:02
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Does anyone have experience with gimbals and smartphone camera ois interaction? Is the wobble as bad as everyone makes it out to be? Or is the issue overblown?
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Nov 13, 2017 23:43
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You should also note the sensor filter stack thickness when you adopt lenses. See if they at a good match. https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/06/sensor-stack-thickness-when-does-it-matter/ People have been modifying the filter stack on the a7r2 sensor to remove the hazy look when using Leica lenses. https://phillipreeve.net/blog/review-kolari-ultra-thin-sensor-stack-modification/
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Nov 15, 2017 07:36
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DJExile posted:Travel related gear questions: Whereabout in Africa are you going?
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Nov 15, 2017 09:53
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nielsm posted:Years ago I saw a thing that was an SD card in one end and a USB plug in the other. Can you still get those? Only thing I can see similar to that are these:  I'll just carry a pair of SD card adaptors and copy from one card to another as backup. Ineptitude posted:Im using a portable drive with a keypad on it, for encryption (and peace of mind). Might not be the best price/storage option but knowing no one can access my stuff if it gets stolen or lost is nice. Those things always slightly worry me in that there is another layer of hardware to fail that can gently caress things up. At least with a standard portable HDD and Trucrypt, if the casing fails, I can still remount the physical disk and extract from it. (though, let's be honest and admit that the drive is more likely to fail that casing electronics).
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Nov 15, 2017 10:28
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nielsm posted:Years ago I saw a thing that was an SD card in one end and a USB plug in the other. Can you still get those? You can still get the 4GB version at least: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDSD...DJVN19DDB1BWP7T I still think it was a cute idea at the time, but it doesn't seem like it survived.
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Nov 15, 2017 14:47
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sildargod posted:Whereabout in Africa are you going? Kenya, Tanzania, and South Africa
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Nov 15, 2017 21:50
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DJExile posted:South Africa If you're stopping by Johannesburg let me know, I'd be happy to put you up and arrange a shoot out somewhere interesting here!
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Nov 16, 2017 08:06
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sildargod posted:If you're stopping by Johannesburg let me know, I'd be happy to put you up and arrange a shoot out somewhere interesting here! I think we're mainly in Cape Town but ill let you know, thanks!
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Nov 16, 2017 12:38
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Adorama running some big black friday deals on the Godox X system stuff for anyone who was looking at jumping in. Xplor 600 TTL (AD600) is 200$ off Xplor 600 manual is 110$ off extension head is 20$ off, 1200w head is 100$ off AD200/Evolv 200 is 20$ off the kit (and there's a bundle deal with two, the twin head, and the new trigger) Streaklight 360 TTL / AD360II is 170$ off Edit: The deals are live now, you don't have to wait till tomorrow
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Nov 23, 2017 20:02
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The AD200 is real good, I have two.
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Nov 23, 2017 23:42
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kefkafloyd posted:On Minolta glass, any screw-drive Maxxum lens made since 1985 works on every A-mount body including digital (though xi lenses lose motor zoom on digital bodies). Lenses with 8-pin SSM or SAM motors work on Maxxum 7 (2000-ish) and later, or the Maxxum 9 with the SSM upgrade chip. This means you can use modern Sony lenses on those film bodies. People cling to the 90s era 80-200 HS G or the 200 f/2.8 G for good reason - excellent optics, fast focusing, and light weight. Just don't mind the focus gear noise... Wrt MD electromechanical adaptor. I know http://techartpro.com/product/techart-pro-leica-m-sony-e-autofocus-adapter/ Techart has this, so aperture could be as simple as sending the electrical signal FROM the A7 THROUGH the lecia so it isn't technically impossible. I just wanted to post this.
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Nov 25, 2017 00:54
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Ryand-Smith posted:Wrt MD electromechanical adaptor. I know http://techartpro.com/product/techart-pro-leica-m-sony-e-autofocus-adapter/ Techart has this, so aperture could be as simple as sending the electrical signal FROM the A7 THROUGH the lecia so it isn't technically impossible. I just wanted to post this. I figured it's not technically impossible, just that the market is small enough that it's not feasible from a profit standpoint. That said, I know people have made Contax AF adaptors that work with AF on E-mount...
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Nov 25, 2017 01:17
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kefkafloyd posted:I figured it's not technically impossible, just that the market is small enough that it's not feasible from a profit standpoint. The second someone made this techart with that, MD glass prices will skyrocket as they have enough decent lenses to destroy the secondary market
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Nov 25, 2017 01:37
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There's an adapter that keeps infinity focus from MD mount lenses on A mount bodies. You lose aperture control, auto focus and the automatic diaphragm though.
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Nov 25, 2017 01:57
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Helen Highwater posted:There's an adapter that keeps infinity focus from MD mount lenses on A mount bodies. You lose aperture control, auto focus and the automatic diaphragm though. Yes, but it has optical elements, which people don't want. This has always been possible and many have been on the market. Sigma even made one way back in the day that enabled AF of manual lenses on A-mount by moving said glass elements.
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Nov 25, 2017 03:28
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The difference between the A mount and SR mount flange distances is 1mm. You aren't going to get a dumb adapter that can physically fit the lens and keep infinity focus without having glass elements.
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Nov 25, 2017 03:35
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Helen Highwater posted:The difference between the A mount and SR mount flange distances is 1mm. You aren't going to get a dumb adapter that can physically fit the lens and keep infinity focus without having glass elements. I know, I mentioned this in the original quoted post. We've been talking about theoretical E-mount adapters that could bring back aperture control indexing for program mode shooting.
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Nov 25, 2017 03:38
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