|
Sagebrush posted:PrusaSlic3r is better than either Cura or S3D in my opinion. I've always recognized that is slices really well, but its interface has always left me wanting more. I now see that they've added one of the biggest things I've missed, a 3D model interface with gcode preview.
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
Revol posted:It seems to me like S3D is easier to configure because it has less to configure. Never checked the "Advanced" section of S3D, eh?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 16:48
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure I've asked this before, but I'm trying to figure this out again and I am losing my mind. I need help finding a good blower fan mount that can be installed onto the Titan extruder, that is printer agnostic. Too many fan mounts are designed for specific printers. The only worthwhile ones I've found that install onto the Titan extruder itself are really basic, that is just a big spigot that blows in one direction directly onto the part itself, with less focus on the extruding material. I'd love to use something like a Diicooler. I once tried a mount that installed onto the E3D hotend fan, but that's a poor design.biracial bear for uncut posted:Never checked the "Advanced" section of S3D, eh? I have all that turned on. What I am referring to are options like the ability to configure acceleration and jerk, something I've already done in the firmware.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 23:25
|
|
|
Acceleration and jerk can be set with M codes in your starting gcode script. That's not really a slicer-driven feature.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 02:36
|
|
|
  Made with some $5-on-clearance Hobby King translucent PLA, no infill and totally hollow. It's going to be the topper for this year's Game of Thrones-themed Christmas tree because my girlfriend and I are hopelessly nerdy adult-children. For the non-GoT folks, it's the "Kingslayer's Golden Hand." Looking forward to jamming some lights up its little hand-butt.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 02:37
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:
Looking at the photos I was gonna make a joke about it being Jamie Lannister's hand. It's NOT A JOKE
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 03:56
|
|
|
Nope, but you can feel free to laugh at us anyway for Geek Tree 2017 if you want to. We have no shame, and she's not a goon anyway so she'll never see it. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 04:20
|
|
|
I'm sure it will be glorious, valar morghulis
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 04:28
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Acceleration and jerk can be set with M codes in your starting gcode script. That's not really a slicer-driven feature. Right. My concern is that, as far as I am aware, Cura forces you to configure these options. S3D does not because they are not available for configuration.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
Revol posted:Right. My concern is that, as far as I am aware, Cura forces you to configure these options. S3D does not because they are not available for configuration. You can leave that stuff blank in Cura and it'll be ignored. I have all of my jerk/accel values set in firmware and don't even worry about what Cura thinks. The downside is that it throws off the print time calculations, because it has no idea what the actual values are. I'm consistently about 20% slower than the estimate because I'm set up fairly conservatively.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 04:42
|
|
|
Is it possible to print with a brim that is easy to clean? It's a great way to prevent curling, but it becomes a pain to remove from the print. I have the ability to separate the skirt/brim from the model, with 0 being a connected brim. If I had a very slight separation, like 0.1mm, would the skirt be close enough to insulate the model from curling?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 04:52
|
|
|
The point of the brim is that it provides increased surface area and mechanically holds the print down, so no, I don't think it's possible to make it work without touching the part. Why are your brims hard to remove? Mine (which I only use on particularly difficult parts, like long thin pieces) usually peel off with almost no effort and a deburring knife takes care of any extra leftover bits.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 06:15
|
|
|
Revol posted:Right. My concern is that, as far as I am aware, Cura forces you to configure these options. S3D does not because they are not available for configuration. Both of these statements are wrong. Cura doesn't force you to configure them and S3D doesn't have specific configuration options for them (because their documentation on the support forums says basically what I said above, if you want to move away from your firmware defined values for those you can use Mcodes in your starting script).
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 13:14
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:The point of the brim is that it provides increased surface area and mechanically holds the print down, so no, I don't think it's possible to make it work without touching the part. Maybe my brims aren't large enough? My recent prints used two lines worth on my .4mm nozzle, and 6 using my .15mm. If they were larger, maybe I'd have a better chance at peeling.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 14:41
|
|
|
If anybody is interested in buying cutting-edge-in-2011 tech, this printer is up for $399.99 No LCD controller, basically requires USB tethering to something (preferably Octoprint on a Raspberri Pi). About the only good thing about it is the published print area, but that's a bit deceptive as the actual heating element on the bed is only 120mm x 120mm and randomly placed within the specified build area on the glass plate. You know, for anybody that thinks "I'd like to have a Mendel90 in a plastic frame, but don't want to build it myself). Keep in mind that this printer was originally $800, dropped to $500 and is now offered in the linked listing to apparently get rid of them since the company rolled out it's new machines.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 15:15
|
|
|
Revol posted:Maybe my brims aren't large enough? My recent prints used two lines worth on my .4mm nozzle, and 6 using my .15mm. If they were larger, maybe I'd have a better chance at peeling. Mine are 6mm wide, so about 15 lines' worth.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 17:10
|
|
|
I don't use brims myself but two lines is way smaller than any brim I've ever seen.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 18:57
|
|
|
Man, refurbed the Rostock Max over the past week or so. It all started when I stripped the heater block on the HE280 when changing a nozzle. Whoops! Since I had to order a new heater block from SeeMeCNC, I also ordered new GT2 6mm wide belts (remember, on a Rostock you need TWO 5 meter kits) I converted from the stupid glass thermistor job to one of the 3mm threaded brass thermistors, to screw right into what is normally the wire lock hole in the block. Put new belts in and tightened the gently caress out of them. Even with the old belts tightened, I could still "skip" the stepper gear by pulling quickly down on the carriages. With the new belts, they're locked fast. I pulled the RAMBo board out and re-tightened all of the wire connections. Even after this, I was still having a persistent issue where the hotend won't get all the way up to my set temp, stalling at like 239 when I have it set to 244. Eventually, this causes the printer to shut down, thinking it has a broken heater. It'll show "def" for temperatures on the screen when it does this. So, I replaced it with a spare heater cartridge. Unfortunately, it was still doing the same thing. I tried it without the thermal fuse, and the problem went away, so I guess it's time to order a new thermal fuse. Rebuilt the hotend and tightened everything down, oiled the fan (that stupid loud tiny fan, ugh!), and squared up the towers. I left off the part cooling fans, as they're quite heavy and I print solely in ABS so I generally don't need them. I may print out a single fan holder instead of the current 3. I also broke one of the plexiglass panels for the "corners" like two years ago, so I finally spent 5 minutes and cut out a sheet of plastic from an old trash can. And, of course, stickers.      Today was a good day. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 03:08
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Man, refurbed the Rostock Max over the past week or so. It all started when I stripped the heater block on the HE280 when changing a nozzle. Whoops! What happened that caused the strip? Were you trying to change the nozzle without the heater block heated up?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 03:38
|
|
|
It was heated up (well, enough, using the dual-wrench technique to avoid burning myself). I removed the old nozzle, put a new one in, and just barely tightened the new nozzle and it stripped right the gently caress out. Heater block is just aluminum, after all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 03:41
|
|
|
I finally took matters into my own hands and created my own part cooling fan mount. That's a lie. I didn't so much make this myself, as I literally hacked two designs together. I think it's very obvious where one design is merged into the other. What is cool about this though is that it is the first time I designed a part by including other models in the process. I brought in models of a Titan extruder and E3D V6 heater so that I could properly align things. To do this, I had to modify the mount, moving it to the side more so that the heat block fits.  I knew this would happen, though. I can't install it as it is, because the BLTouch is in the way. The yellow part is another hack job I did, where I took somebody else's extruder/BLTouch mount and modified it to fix a design fault. I'll have to modify it further and move the sensor further away, which should be easy enough.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 06:32
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:
If you're gonna jam lights in it, you might want to heat cure it first. Normal PLA doesn't have very high heat tolerance
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 06:44
|
|
|
Fayez Butts posted:If you're gonna jam lights in it, you might want to heat cure it first. Normal PLA doesn't have very high heat tolerance LEDs don't get the warm. Assuming he's going to be using LEDs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 09:40
|
|
|
I've been doing some experiments with colouring filament (using a sharpie) before it goes into the extruder. I think I might engineer a way to use fountain pen cartridges to colour my filament. If y'all have any natural or white filament try it.  The white streak is a metallic paint pen
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 09:56
|
|
|
Fayez Butts posted:If you're gonna jam lights in it, you might want to heat cure it first. Normal PLA doesn't have very high heat tolerance Luminaflare posted:LEDs don't get the warm. I might go with a single neopixel so I can try to dial in a nice golden color, or I may just throw a few regular 5mm white ones together and bask in its shining glory. I need to dig through my big tub-O-components and find everything. I do appreciate the concern though, Fayez - I never, ever disregard anyone when they're looking out for my safety.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
I just discovered some cool OctoPrint plugins. Tempsgraph - This is a huge upgrade to the temperature graph. It allows you to scroll back, zoom in, save graph as PNG, and more. FilamentManager - I'm really excited to try this. It lets you manage your filament spools, so it'll track how much you use of a spool during a print, and then you'll have a list of how much of each spool is left. Since I don't have new spools, or a way to weigh what I currently have, I'll have to wait to use it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
I just saw this stuff, which is somewhat softer than ninjaflex https://flexionextruder.com/shop/x60-ultra-flexible-filament-black/ and it says this  I've had excellent results printing Ninjaflex with my Titans once I got the tension dialed in, and now part of me wants to buy a roll of that stuff just to spite them and prove that they're full of poo poo
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 04:55
|
|
|
BMan posted:Don't use 2.85mm with the volcano, 1.75mm melts faster. 2.85 can give higher throughput. E3D did some work on this. video Given a constant hot zone length, time to melt is proportional to radius, but time spent in the hot zone is proportional to the area. Basically while it takes longer to melt, the additional volume lets you melt more at once and is emptied slower. You should probably still use 1.75 because it's easier to get, more varieties are available, and easier to use with other extruders. I'd only bother with 2.85 if all you're gonna do is big stuff, or want to go with huge nozzles. You're not gonna be able to use 1.75 with a 2mm nozzle. Maybe if you want to do some extremely long bowden setup where the additional stiffness could help.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 05:37
|
|
|
I have been a very busy print-goon The trigger mechanism for my slingshot is functional  I have no life Edit: But it works on a small scale atleast https://youtu.be/F7birzUZ4I0 Jestery fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 07:39
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I've had excellent results printing Ninjaflex with my Titans once I got the tension dialed in, and now part of me wants to buy a roll of that stuff just to spite them and prove that they're full of poo poo If you don't have a fully supported filament path, eventually that poo poo is gonna bend right and get caught and jam. They just don't want to deal with the support headache trying to explain why the filament doesn't work with the hundreds of iterations of printers out there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 13:41
|
|
|
The continuing saga
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 15:56
|
|
|
I'm getting a lot of laughs at the people blaming Tom for what Tevo is doing. It's like the people that come out of the woodwork to defend Anet printers whenever you say something bad about them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
I’m curious if he’ll be able to get a human at YouTube to remove those fraudulent clicks
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 16:57
|
|
|
LOL if you think Youtube gives a poo poo about hobbyist drama.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 17:03
|
|
|
Same thing happened to Dave at EEVBlog when he posted a ripping-apart of the claims behind the "batterizer", a device that was supposed to double the life of any AA battery it was clipped onto. He showed how their claims were impossible, got some angry responses from the company founders, and then a few days later all his videos started getting mass-downvoted from Vietnam.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 17:35
|
|
|
downvotes and upvotes function identically for the algorithms in the youtube ecosystem.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 20:06
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Same thing happened to Dave at EEVBlog when he posted a ripping-apart of the claims behind the "batterizer", a device that was supposed to double the life of any AA battery it was clipped onto. He showed how their claims were impossible, got some angry responses from the company founders, and then a few days later all his videos started getting mass-downvoted from Vietnam.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 21:15
|
|
|
 Hey, you can't PROVE it was Tevo that bought the dislikes 
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 21:28
|
|
|
Anybody got some random supplies they want to stock up on? https://twitter.com/DanielRTurner/status/930904405058179072
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 11:01 |
|
|
mewse posted:The continuing saga That's loving gross
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 23:46
|
|