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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:*Points at groin* oh are we playing scrunts again? *fecks at you*
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Nov 12, 2017 21:41
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Paragon8 posted:i really like https://www.emodels.co.uk/ Seconding these guys, my favourite port of call for general supplies.
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Nov 12, 2017 21:52
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MMD3 posted:
My thoughts are that's awesome. If you wanted more character I'd add other terrain pieces rather than spice up the basic walls, otherwise you'll make them harder than they need to be. Plus that way the character is mixable between dungeon dives.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:03
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Pidgin Englishman posted:I'm using Scale75 paints - just witched to them from Vallejo a few months ago. I love a matte finish, and these paints are amazing for it. That's actually very similar to what I've ended up with. Picked up some scale75 yellows since I hate how orange averland sunset is. Sahara yellow > airbrush highlight with marduk yellow (super similar to sol yellow with a touch less green) > glaze with GW lamenters yellow > pin wash with seraphim sepia > lilith yellow edge highlights. Since I game with them I'll probably end up dullcoting and I'm hoping to retain some of the super matte feel. 
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Nov 12, 2017 22:14
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Is there any Scale75 reseller in the US that won't charge an arm and a leg? I'd quite like to try the stuff, but damned if I'm gonna pay more than GW prices for the privilege.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:37
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Noble Knight has a pretty good selection of Scale75 paints.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:42
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grassy gnoll posted:Is there any Scale75 reseller in the US that won't charge an arm and a leg? I'd quite like to try the stuff, but damned if I'm gonna pay more than GW prices for the privilege. https://scale75usa.myshopify.com
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Nov 12, 2017 23:55
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MMD3 posted:So I've never painted miniatures before the last couple weeks here. I realized we could print dungeon tiles for D&D and I've always wanted some terrain so a few months ago we started cranking them out whenever the 3d printer wasn't being used at work for something more important. Use a wash or ink to dirty the tiles and pillars up a bit, then dry brush them again? The pieces look great as-is, but also seconding adding more bits to the interior. There is a fun little service like loot-crate only for terrain by the people at Mantic called Terrain Crate that might be of some use to you. It could be a fun way to start a game session, as well as inspire you with new pieces you may not have thought of.
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Nov 13, 2017 01:02
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MMD3 posted:So I've never painted miniatures before the last couple weeks here. I realized we could print dungeon tiles for D&D and I've always wanted some terrain so a few months ago we started cranking them out whenever the 3d printer wasn't being used at work for something more important. Something I think looks good for dunegons tiles is mixing brown and green wash. Not on the palette but on the tiles themselves, in somewhat random fashion. Gives you some good tonal variation to break up that uniform 'fresh out of the dungeon factory' look. After the wash, another light drybrush and boom.
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Nov 13, 2017 01:14
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I want to get this model just to frighten my wifre she'd probablly smash it
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Nov 13, 2017 01:41
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Do any good single mini cases exist? I've got mini's for all my characters that I play in D&D and Pathfinder, so I'd like to be able to just take a single one with me in my shoulder bag that is tight for space for anything that is not a hardcover book. Sort of like a Chessex dice case, but with a clamp on one end that locks on to your standard bases and the clear top goes over it. Or even a small plastic box that clamps down with foam. Everything I've found holds around 10 minis at the minimum which is far too large. I need something like 4"x2" max.
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Nov 13, 2017 01:54
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Philthy posted:Do any good single mini cases exist? I've got mini's for all my characters that I play in D&D and Pathfinder, so I'd like to be able to just take a single one with me in my shoulder bag that is tight for space for anything that is not a hardcover book. Chessex box wth elastic bands?
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Nov 13, 2017 01:58
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Zuul the Cat posted:Managed to finish the first of my assault squad today. Decided to make him a Black Templar, which seemed fitting. I'm happy with the glow below the eye, but i'm not always the best of judgment with my painting. Does it look right, or is it too bright?
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Nov 13, 2017 01:59
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Use a wash or ink to dirty the tiles and pillars up a bit, then dry brush them again? The pieces look great as-is, but also seconding adding more bits to the interior. ahhh, that looks pretty cool. the 3D printer sets we have mean i can print most any props I want though, will see if there are any interesting set pieces that might be good. bonds0097 posted:Something I think looks good for dunegons tiles is mixing brown and green wash. Not on the palette but on the tiles themselves, in somewhat random fashion. Gives you some good tonal variation to break up that uniform 'fresh out of the dungeon factory' look. After the wash, another light drybrush and boom. I think my only concern with washing the floor tiles is it could end up using a whole lot of wash for how many pieces I've got. I might try it on a few pieces though and see how it looks.
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Nov 13, 2017 03:53
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Zuul the Cat posted:I'm happy with the glow below the eye, but i'm not always the best of judgment with my painting. Does it look right, or is it too bright? Thought this was one of mine while scrolling past! I think it looks great, most people overdo the glow but you've got about the perfect amount.
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Nov 13, 2017 04:04
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I've read the OP material on airbrushes and compressors, and while the advice on quality compressors makes sense, I'm curious if this sub-$100 compressor would work for very sparing use in priming and base-coating. I can't afford both an airbrush and $200 compressor at the same time, but if I get this one it might hold me over until I could afford a better one and/or it breaks. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Compressor-Dual-brush/dp/B005H3CBXO I would probably be getting the Badger Patriot 105 to go with.
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Nov 13, 2017 04:12
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I'm using a sub-$100 compressor for everything from base coating to fine detail work. At the end of the day you only need 2 'extra' things: Water trap (to avoid moisture in the air causing weird splatters) Tank (to give consistent, even air flow) After that it's your brush. The only places a cheap compressor will let you down are reliability and duty cycle (IE, how hard you can use it). Keep an eye on its temperature (don't use it for undercoating 80 marines at once) and a cheap one should last a decade. Mine's done 4 years so far without a single problem, and cost $90 delivered with a hose and cheap brush. Edit: Basically you'd want this rather than the compressor-only one you posted. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...7hlL&ref=plSrch Pidgin Englishman fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Nov 13, 2017 |
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Nov 13, 2017 04:21
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That's your standard Chinese compressor and it'll do fine until you feel you need a tank.
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Nov 13, 2017 04:27
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I've had this for almost 4 years now. No complaints. Really quiet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also get teflon seal tape for the connections and an water trap (On the gun end) as mentioned. I've been using the Iwata Neo, and had previously used my friends Iwata HP-CS. Very few differences from what I could tell and both spray amazingly well. Whatever you do, don't get one of those $40 compressors at Freight Harbor. They're industrial compressors and you'll want ear protection. They're freaking loud. Philthy fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 13, 2017 |
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Nov 13, 2017 04:35
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MMD3 posted:ahhh, that looks pretty cool. the 3D printer sets we have mean i can print most any props I want though, will see if there are any interesting set pieces that might be good. I actually use inks, scale or vallejo and dilute them 8:1 so you could easily stretch a 4 or 5 dollar bottle a really long ways.
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Nov 13, 2017 04:39
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I need a little help. I'm trying to work out what colours GW used for the off-white robes on Mortarion. Not the spectral fire, just the clean parts of the robe. I'm guessing it's Rakarth Flesh or Karak Stone as a base, but can't be sure. None of the colour swatches I've seen address that part of the model. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Death-Guard-Daemon-Primarch-Mortarion-2017
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Nov 13, 2017 05:29
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:I need a little help. I'm trying to work out what colours GW used for the off-white robes on Mortarion. Not the spectral fire, just the clean parts of the robe. I'm guessing it's Rakarth Flesh or Karak Stone as a base, but can't be sure. None of the colour swatches I've seen address that part of the model. to me it looks more rakarth flesh-y, but with a wash or two of maybe seraphim sepia applied, mixed up toward pallid wych flesh.
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Nov 13, 2017 05:57
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Zuul the Cat posted:I'm happy with the glow below the eye, but i'm not always the best of judgment with my painting. Does it look right, or is it too bright? You do really good work but you should take the extra few minutes to clean up the mold lines.
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Nov 13, 2017 05:57
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The new WarhammerTV guy, as seen in the new Tyranid Warrior tutorial, is pretty good to listen to as well. Not quite Duncan, but pretty pleasant anyway. But man, seeing the brush held in the left hand just feels wrong. Nothing against you lefties, it's just so weird seeing the brush on the wrong side of the screen after having watched at least a hundred videos with Duncan.
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Nov 13, 2017 15:28
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Groetgaffel posted:The new WarhammerTV guy, as seen in the new Tyranid Warrior tutorial, is pretty good to listen to as well. Not quite Duncan, but pretty pleasant anyway. Is Saint Duncan not doing videos anymore?
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Nov 13, 2017 15:31
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Bucnasti posted:Is Saint Duncan not doing videos anymore? Just today they've uploaded two build tutorials and three paint tutorials for Necromunda, all of which is Duncan. Then there's the Tyranid Warrior tutorial on top of that featuring the new guy.
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Nov 13, 2017 15:37
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Booyah- posted:I've read the OP material on airbrushes and compressors, and while the advice on quality compressors makes sense, I'm curious if this sub-$100 compressor would work for very sparing use in priming and base-coating. I can't afford both an airbrush and $200 compressor at the same time, but if I get this one it might hold me over until I could afford a better one and/or it breaks. For God's sake, like Pidgin Englishman said, get one with a tank. It will keep the flow regulated and will allow the motor to cool down a little more often. One with a tank is like $20 more - don't cheap out on that.
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Nov 13, 2017 16:33
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Groetgaffel posted:But man, seeing the brush held in the left hand just feels wrong. There's a reason the Roman word for left-handed was "sinister."
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Nov 13, 2017 16:44
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Thought this was one of mine while scrolling past! I think it looks great, most people overdo the glow but you've got about the perfect amount. We can't ever play against each other, we'll end up getting our models confused. Thanks! Big McHuge posted:You do really good work but you should take the extra few minutes to clean up the mold lines. Thanks! Yeah, I really need to spend a little more time on the prep work. I always feel like I get all of them, then I take a pic and blow it up and it's mold lines for days. After I finished the Deathwatch dude, I decided to work on my Shadespire stuff. Managed to get Brightshield's body mostly done. Still gotta do the base and the leader guy.  
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Nov 13, 2017 16:45
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One more airbrush question before I bite the bullet: I'm getting this almost exclusively to prime models with vallejo surface primer because it's too rainy here to use spray cans. It's my understanding that you have to be extra careful about overspray and chemicals when priming, so I would still need to do this in a pretty damp garage in cold weather (probably 40 degrees F or so.) Will priming still be okay in the cold? berzerkmonkey posted:For God's sake, like Pidgin Englishman said, get one with a tank. It will keep the flow regulated and will allow the motor to cool down a little more often. One with a tank is like $20 more - don't cheap out on that. Definitely, I didn't realize the tank ones weren't much more expensive and it seems like a huge benefit.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:42
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Zuul the Cat posted:We can't ever play against each other, we'll end up getting our models confused. Thanks! gently caress those look good. That red parchment and turquoise effect on the hammers really makes them stand out.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:45
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Booyah- posted:gently caress those look good. That red parchment and turquoise effect on the hammers really makes them stand out. Thanks dude. I'm glad I switched the parchment from tan to red. It just helps it pop so much. I'm doing the same thing on my Deathwatch as well.
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Nov 13, 2017 20:30
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Booyah- posted:One more airbrush question before I bite the bullet: OK, you don't want to be priming in a cold, damp environment, period. The whole point of priming with an airbrush is so you don't have to worry about weather. Cold is an issue because your models will start to cool while they're in the garage, and once you bring them inside, they will warm up again, creating condensation (like on a cold glass in a warm room) that will cause all sorts of paint/primer issues. Dampness is an issue for the same reason - you'll get bubbling paint, runs, etc. One of the things you might want to think about (though it adds more money to your projected cost) is a spray booth. It has a pretty decent fan that will pull overspray through a filter, lessening the chances of you spraying something else accidentally. You can also vent it through a window, using the exhaust hose, if you really want to (I don't use mine.) If this isn't an option for you, you may want to rethink airbrushing. One of your options is to continue using your spray cans, but to go about it differently: - Set up a place where you can spray - we've got these gigantic recycle bins that I can put my stuff on while painting. - Set up all the models you need to prime, prior to going into the garage. I'll often lay mine out on a cardboard sheet cut from a box, and I'll tape smaller pieces down. - Get your paint ready - again, shake the hell out of it before going out. - Once your paint and rattlecan are a go, enter your garage with both. - Set your sheet full of models on your painting area. Spray your pieces on the exposed side. - Once you're done spraying, grab your sheet of models and paint, and get the heck back inside. - Place your sheet in the bathroom, turn on the vent fan, and close the door (your place will stink and your SO will yell at you otherwise.) - Once you're confident your first pass has dried, flip your models and repeat the previous steps. This process eliminates moisture and condensation issues you'd see if you just left everything in the garage. Your trip out and in will be quick enough to avoid any significant temperature changes and impact that humidity might otherwise have on your process.
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Nov 13, 2017 20:31
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MMD3 posted:I think my only concern with washing the floor tiles is it could end up using a whole lot of wash for how many pieces I've got. I might try it on a few pieces though and see how it looks. I've found that a little wash goes a long way on terrain pieces, if you use it sparingly. Something I've been doing on miniature bases, specifically gravestones, is painting on some spots of GW Athonian Camoshade, Biel-tan Green, and Agrax Earthshade near the bottom to simulate moss and mildew. You can also drybrush on some olive green paint or pigment powder in places for a similar effect. I tend to paint boring light grey drybrushed gravestones, and adding little accents like those really breaks up the monotony and doesn't consume a whole lot of paint or wash.
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Nov 13, 2017 21:44
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As the good Dr. says, a little bit of green and/or dark gray stippling goes a long way: [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M8lr6NDSXsVOTqQ6-U91xGqKJ8xhDupPuTELRwqPEDbAkuSnjJWDUoray4vNEX4aMHSbfhzYsPaBXIadHw=w800-h600-no?.j[g[/img]
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Nov 13, 2017 22:57
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Booyah- posted:One more airbrush question before I bite the bullet: To follow what berzerkmonkey said, I made my own spray booth with a furnace filter, a cardboard box and an old desk fan. As long as you're sticking to water-based media, you're safe to paint at your kitchen table. You'll still want a decent respirator and some goggles or safety glasses for inevitable overspray, but you're not gonna poison your family if you're spraying indoors. NOTE CAREFULLY: this does not apply in the slightest if you're using oil-based paints, shellacs, or anything else with more active chemistry than acrylic paints. Don't mess with that stuff unless you know what you're doing, up to and including relevant safety precautions. Anyway, seconding that if you can't paint indoors, you may be throwing your money away on a tool you're going to hate in short order.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:14
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What would you need to do to turn a disused (wood-burning) fireplace into a vent-hood to do indoor airbrush spraying? Something like this: 
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Nov 14, 2017 00:31
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grassy gnoll posted:NOTE CAREFULLY: this does not apply in the slightest if you're using oil-based paints, shellacs, or anything else with more active chemistry than acrylic paints. Don't mess with that stuff unless you know what you're doing, up to and including relevant safety precautions. This applies for acryllic primer as well like vallejo surface primer right? That stuff has considerable fumes to it. If the primer wasn't an issue I'd be fine with a makeshift fun/booth, but the primer worries me.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:35
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Booyah- posted:This applies for acryllic primer as well like vallejo surface primer right? That stuff has considerable fumes to it. If the primer wasn't an issue I'd be fine with a makeshift fun/booth, but the primer worries me. There are no solvents in vallejo primer. Treat it the same you would any other acrylic water-based paint. I just have my spray booth pointed at a screen door and I wear a P100 mask.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:49
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Yeah, VSP is pretty safe on the lungs. None of my bottles has a strong odor of any sort, and I'm pretty sensitive about that kind of thing. Are you adding any kind of thinners or other agents to the stuff? I've noticed when I prime my dudes, the airbrush thinner will give the primed pieces a sort of sweet smell. It's certainly not what I'd describe as dangerous fumes, though.
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Nov 14, 2017 01:31
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