|
Nope, just buy one that's done. Your price range is reasonable and you're dead-on-correct about keeping the Subaru off the track. My buddy blew his up his 2nd track session. I paid $1500 for a car with a hard top already ($1k extra, and you'll want one) and did the upgrades myself. So basically I got a FREE car with free suspension work (FM Stage 1.5). $500 wheels $500 tires $500+ roll bar $750 seat/harness $250 steering wheel (needed it) $300 2nd seat for instructor, harness (used) $150 SS lines $50 used RB sway bar $150 ELBJ I got an insane deal and that right there is $4500 and I'm nowhere near the setup level of what I could have gotten for one already done. And again that's with basically a free car. That's not including brake pads and such. Blaise fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Nov 2, 2017 |
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 15:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:22 |
|
|
OK, and now take that figure from Blaise and add about a thousand for a cage from Miatacage or Advanced Autosports (I've welded in an AA cage and it was great, haven't done a Miatacage but they look well done) Yes, you can bend one up for a little cheaper if you're good with a bender, but at the price of the predone cages you have very few tube "oopses" before you're behind buying the kit. Now start thinking about suspension (Spec Miata suspension package is $1500)... ... and you see why I say "find someone who is selling a Spec Miata". And incidentally I know of a few people who drive theirs to the track and on the street.  https://www.racingjunk.com/NASA-Spec-Miata/182955330/Spec-Miata-race-ready-and-street-legal.html?categoryId=1080&offset=0&from=category showed up in 15 seconds of googling. If you make friends with people you can probably find friend deals a bit less than that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
Blaise posted:15x9 is for 225s which is really for a higher power car. More options in 205/50 as well and opens up more race-take-off tires as well. I was assuming stock power levels. It also requires running a coilover setup to clear. Very much disagree - you absolutely do not need more power to take advantage of 225's. And given not needing to roll fenders (at least on an NB) to run them, there really isn't any aero penalty. I ran 15x9's for years on stock suspension on an NB - wheel contacted the spring at full lock and full lock only. There certainly are more tire options available in 205/50, but I honestly don't think that's much of a benifit unless you're looking specifically at race tire take offs. Otherwise why you wouldn't be running something available in a 225/45 for track use (RS4's, rivals, maxxis vr-1, etc) is beyond me, I'm not coming up with any street tires outside of Re71r's that aren't available in a 225. Cost difference between a 225 and a 205 is quite small. Outside of those you're looking at tires that really aren't intended for track use. I have a hard top and while I know it's faster with it on I never have it on in the summer. The drive to and from the track would be massively uncomfortable with it on as I don't have AC and am a baby with heat. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:46
|
|
|
Thanks for the input! I took the 15x9 not fitting and needing more power advice from 949Racing. If that's incorrect, my bad! I'll double check with them. If the 15x9 fits with standard shocks I'm going to look into a set for next year. Can always use more tire  Present setup: NA with 15x7.5 with 205 RC-1 and 15x8 with AD-08R. Sounds like I should be looking for 15x9s with an RS4 or similar. Blaise fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
No ideas on an NA, my experience is with an NB. They're going to tell you they wont fit on an NA - you need to roll fenders for that, and at least in my experience contact with the springs at full lock means they'll say they won't fit. I'm running 245's on a 9 without extra power, and it's likely hurting my lap times at the track but it certainly helps for autox.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:23
|
|
|
I think 15x7 is good for a street car and 15x9 for a race car. I found a junkyard BBK and had to move from 14 to 15 inch wheels to fit it and 7 inches feels fine for a street car. To be honest the widest I've gone for a race oriented car is 8 inches, but knowing what I know now if I was building one again I'd go to 9 inches.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:28
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:it's likely hurting my lap times at the track but it certainly helps for autox. Ah. That's the disconnect. I'm track only.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
15x9/225's will help compared to 8/205 or 9/245 or 10/245 with a stock car. Better than the 8's due to more grip, better than 245's on a stock engine because the wider wheels / tires higher grip doesn't make up for the aero penalty on track. If you have proper flares / aero front and rear the 245's will probably be faster, but it's track dependant. The longer the straight the more you're giving up with wider wheels. For autocross it's just get as much rubber as possible, you're not going fast enough for aero to make a huge difference until you're in a class that allowes engine modifications as well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:52
|
|
|
Are there any brands of aftermarket OE style lower control arms to avoid for the NA/NB? I just picked up a '93 that needs a replacement left front lower control arm and I see new ones from Ultra Power (part number 524467) for the same price as used ones shipped via eBay. Googling found a single review on Amazon for that part number indicating it was missing the mount for the sway bar end link, but that was all I found thus far. If I need to retrofit the NB style end link because this part number is a NB style end link mount, that would make more sense.
pr0craztinazn fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:52
|
|
|
Drove an RF today. Wind noise sucks but hot drat is it a good looking car in person.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:57
|
|
|
Off the shelf cages suck for Miatas. All the ones I've seen in person have tiny drivers side openings compared to the locally made ones. Bring it to someone who has done it before to do it for you, it is not worth the time and materials it's going to take you to get a tight fitting cage in the car. A caged car on the street is megadumb anyhow. Driving a caged car without a helmet on makes minor accidents very hazardous due to the metal bars near your head. To get on track all you need is a 4 point roll bar though. Hard Dog is the usual go to. Stock brakes are 100% fine. Unless you're adding a lot of power you don't need to touch them. The 1.6L brakes are the closest to needing help in stock trim, but I wouldn't suggest buying a 1.6L anyhow. All Spec Miatas run stock brakes and the front of the pack drives incomprehensibly harder than you will as a beginner. Seriously, roll bar, tires, brake pads, maintenance items and have fun.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:52
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Drove an RF today. Better or worse than the soft top?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:40
|
|
|
FatCow posted:All Spec Miatas run stock brakes I find this to be incredible.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 14:29
|
|
|
Stock brakes except for pads. SCCA E Production runs stock brakes except for pads and whatever master cylinder you want (which does nothing for heat capacity obviously) In one example I have personal familiarity with, this means you have a 1st gen RX-7 where it's making 250-270hp at the flywheel, is running a close ratio dogbox, has wide bodywork to cover 10" wide slicks (not 200tw tires, not DOT-Rs, slicks) and has 10" diameter brake rotors up front.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:I find this to be incredible. It's a tiny light car. It's just not necessary.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 15:38
|
|
|
Yea I come from a WRX where a couple of track laps with blue the OEM rotors beyond repair. Miatas seem to be all around better equipped for racin'
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 15:50
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:Better or worse than the soft top? Hard to say. My NC is pretty noisy but this we a very odd sensation. Like the wind was sort of circling my head. Still super cool car though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 16:04
|
|
|
I have suspicions that most people who track WRXes aren't using the brakes right, may not be running proper pads, and almost definitely aren't running decent ducting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 16:32
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:I have suspicions that most people who track WRXes aren't using the brakes right, may not be running proper pads, and almost definitely aren't running decent ducting. And tunes/mods for power and no upgraded brakes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 17:10
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:I have suspicions that most people who track WRXes aren't using the brakes right, may not be running proper pads, and almost definitely aren't running decent ducting. It's easy to cook the brakes on the MX5 too, even with RBF600 fluid... just by not braking right. I demonstrated that to good effect at one of my first trackdays with my 10AE. I'm getting Ferodo DS2500 pads in the front and probably new rotors next season.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 17:45
|
|
|
Wibla posted:It's easy to cook the brakes on the MX5 too, even with RBF600 fluid... just by not braking right. I demonstrated that to good effect at one of my first trackdays with my 10AE. My dad had a DNF this year due to cooked brakes on the NC MX-5. Turns out the pads had one less race worth of life on them than we expected... oops. Still don't have ducting on that car - Hawk DTC60s are nice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:I find this to be incredible. It's not by choice. Spec miata is SPEC. You are REQUIRED to run stock brakes. Does it work? Yeah. Is it ideal? no. How many people would run proper racing brakes if they were allowed to? Everybody who could afford them. There's all kinds of issues with miata brakes: caliper knockback, undeven pad wear, etc... it's just a way to keep costs down. Having no power and no weight with good pads goes a long way towards making them work OK.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 18:18
|
|
|
Sure, but you run a Spec Miata and contrary to what a lot of people will have you believe, it just keeps working. Everyone seems to think BBKs are necessary but they only solve some problems. And even with the higher classes where people can run real calipers, it's by no means ubiquitous. (although one guy I saw who had done a J35 swap really really did to do something because he was going through a set of rotors per session)
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 18:31
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:Sure, but you run a Spec Miata and contrary to what a lot of people will have you believe, it just keeps working. Everyone seems to think BBKs are necessary but they only solve some problems. And even with the higher classes where people can run real calipers, it's by no means ubiquitous. Yeah, they're mostly there to spend money to spend less money.  BBKs for the NA/NB give you better pedal feel, even pad wear, double rotor and pad life, $65 front pads, and 5 minute pad swaps. I calculated out the break even on it, and it's something like 25-30 HPDEs. It's completely unnecessary.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 18:46
|
|
|
At least not until you get to relatively high power levels... or if you're running non-assist brakes, having calipers with more piston area is kinda nice. I mean, realtalk, I'm not going to get down on someone for spending money on brakes, they just really shouldn't be much of an issue for most people.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Does it work? Yeah. Is it ideal? no. I have a 133whp, 2350# race weight PTE car that I drive the poo poo out of. At no point in a 40 minute race can I not lock all 4 wheels on a whim and I'm on Hoosiers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 22:27
|
|
|
Got my daily driver (2002 SE) to a dyno this week. Built motor, Trackspeed EFR6758 turbo system, Megasquirt MS3, GM D585 coils, and a big fuel system (ID1000s, flex fuel, Walbro 450-E85 pump, Fuelab FPR/filter, 30A relay). 400whp has been the goal for a long time, finally put all the pieces together and got the tune done. 452whp, 427wtq at 26psi with the injectors totally maxed out (96%dc). Dropped it back to 23psi where it made 415whp (lower lines) at 84%dc. 400+whp Miatas are nuts. Absolutely nuts. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 08:58
|
|
|
Geez. What will it take to make the driveline cope with 400ft/lbs?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 14:57
|
|
|
I can't imagine having 4x as much power in a Miata. That has to be a handful to drive!
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 17:48
|
|
|
Wow that must be a fun car to boot around in. What did you do for the transmission and rear end?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 18:17
|
|
|
I just want 40-50 more hp, and then hope I don't get bitten by the "just a bit more power" bug. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 18:22
|
|
|
Running a stock 6sp reinforced with thoughts and prayers right now. That will get swapped for something shortly, either a BMW ZF 6-speed or a T5 or something else. Diff is a stock Miata unit now, which should hold up fine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 20:32
|
|
|
Jesus that's nuts. You should record a video. I'm also going to someday get your kit, when I get tired of stock power.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 20:50
|
|
|
Oh for gently caress's sake. I just swapped in a COB LED into the dome light instead of the previous LED contraption, which now looks a bit nicer as a solid source of light rather than 12 separate LEDs, but otherwise not very different. Then I went to check out what bulbs were used for the rear plate: Can you spot all issues? 1. Trunk is getting corroded around the edges 2. The plastic clip on the right broke and now barely holds it in place 3. The connector is broken and corroded to gently caress, the positive pin pops out freely! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 13:18
|
|
|
Savington posted:Got my daily driver (2002 SE) to a dyno this week. Built motor, Trackspeed EFR6758 turbo system, Megasquirt MS3, GM D585 coils, and a big fuel system (ID1000s, flex fuel, Walbro 450-E85 pump, Fuelab FPR/filter, 30A relay). 400whp has been the goal for a long time, finally put all the pieces together and got the tune done. 452whp, 427wtq at 26psi with the injectors totally maxed out (96%dc). Dropped it back to 23psi where it made 415whp (lower lines) at 84%dc. Aren't you in California? How in the hell do you smog this thing?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 21:02
|
|
|
These guys took RWD Unlimited Global Time Attack first place. They did it with ~350hp iirc  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RL6uftE69sM um excuse me fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Nov 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 14:50
|
|
|
edit: Sold. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Dec 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 20:27
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:I'm ready to sell my Miata and I'm feeling too lazy to clean it and deal with Craigslist people. Does anyone want a stock (except for the stereo/speakers) 1999 in white? I'll let someone steal it for $2,750, in Charlotte, NC. PM me with pics?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:I'm ready to sell my Miata and I'm feeling too lazy to clean it and deal with Craigslist people. Does anyone want a stock (except for the stereo/speakers) 1999 in white? I'll let someone steal it for $2,750, in Charlotte, NC. How much / any rust? LSD/cruise/ac/mileage?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 03:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:22 |
|
|
Lemme take some pictures tomorrow after work. Thanks for the interest. I believe it has 173k miles, is rust free. Was an Alabama car, then an North Carolina car. It has AC and aftermarket cruise. I've never tested the rear defrost as I've only tried to drive it in good weather. It's seen a few bouts of rain, but the top has some tears in the rear driver's side back corner. It's been very reliable, only thing I've had to replace are brake pads, oil, a caliper, and the dip stick (plastic end broke right off, heh).
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 04:13
|
|