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I'd find the lowest spot in the concrete, where the water pools, from there on I would cut a channel in the concrete out to the side. The channel would slope outwards to create a natural runoff.
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# ? Nov 8, 2017 13:19 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:34 |
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So my house purchase looks like it might complete on the 27th of this month - which is both scary and exhilarating. I've got two big bits of work I'd like to have done ASAP - adding some more plugs (and of course, verifying the condition of the wiring/etc. ) and sanding/refinishing the floor and wooden trim in the house. I'll be hiring contractors to do the work, so do you think it's worth trying to cram that all in before Xmas, or just the electrics, or neither? Both jobs seem like the kind of thing one needs to have an empty house for....
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 09:59 |
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Sanding is definitely an empty room thing but outlets can be added after you've moved in and got an idea of where you would prefer them to be installed.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 10:45 |
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peanut posted:Sanding is definitely an empty room thing but outlets can be added after you've moved in and got an idea of where you would prefer them to be installed. In theory would a plastic sheet taped around the door frame be enough to segregate rooms or am I going to be cleaning sawdust out of my shirt pockets for weeks regardless? I'm hoping that the current wiring will be up to spec enough to work with as-is; so just a few extra sockets rather than a full rewire. Realistically we need 1-2 in each room, so I gather they'll be channeled into the plaster (plaster and brick construction) as opposed to going under the floor? (the floor is just varnished floorboards)
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 12:33 |
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Southern Heel posted:So my house purchase looks like it might complete on the 27th of this month - which is both scary and exhilarating. I've got two big bits of work I'd like to have done ASAP - adding some more plugs (and of course, verifying the condition of the wiring/etc. ) and sanding/refinishing the floor and wooden trim in the house. How old is the house? Do you have a picture from your inspection of the main panel with the cover off? A whole home rewire is a week long process. I regret not doing it before we moved in. If you really just want to add outlets to modern wiring that is easy to do post move in by an electrician.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 15:29 |
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H110Hawk posted:How old is the house? Do you have a picture from your inspection of the main panel with the cover off? 1930's - I don't have a picture but the main consumer unit (and the units in the garage and outside office) are all brand new. The kitchen was wholly re-done about ten years ago. The optimist in me is hoping that whoever installed those would not have permitted non-compliant wiring in the house; but I won't be able to get into there until the end of the month (when we actually complete). I've been lead to believe that if the wiring on the backs of all the plug sockets is grey PVC with 2.5mm core then I'm gravy, and if it's white PVC then it's also fine but not quite as optimal.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 16:11 |
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Southern Heel posted:1930's - I don't have a picture but the main consumer unit (and the units in the garage and outside office) are all brand new. The kitchen was wholly re-done about ten years ago. The optimist in me is hoping that whoever installed those would not have permitted non-compliant wiring in the house; but I won't be able to get into there until the end of the month (when we actually complete). Is an inspection not a thing prior to purchase? If anything it would be a bargaining tool on final price for the place right?
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 17:04 |
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Southern Heel posted:The optimist in me is hoping that whoever installed those would not have permitted non-compliant wiring in the house; but I won't be able to get into there until the end of the month (when we actually complete). This may depend on how things are done for you locally and you might be heavy on the optimism. Where I am (Virginia and DC), you would expect (hopefully) the kitchen to be up to the code at the time it was re-done but should not expect anything elsewhere to have been updated. Around here it is normal to have places with 75 year-old wiring mixed with brand-new stuff. Best case scenario is a previous owner under-took a total overhaul, but if you know that didn't happen upgrades might be very limited.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 17:37 |
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Pay for a home inspection if that's still an option for you in the process. They would be able to verify all this for you.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 17:49 |
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Who needs insulation when you can have a roof made entirely of bird nests and bird corpses! It looks like at some point during construction, vents were initially installed without a wire mesh to keep out birds. A huge family of birds moved in, built a giant nest, and then the wire mesh was installed, trapping them all inside to die.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 18:01 |
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w00tmonger posted:Is an inspection not a thing prior to purchase? If anything it would be a bargaining tool on final price for the place right? Home inspection is a thing, and I paid top dollar - however they explicitly do not cover electrical work (in the UK) other than a visual inspection of sockets. Anything more requires a separate specialist, so I spoke to a number of firms all within the area and they advised they would be able to perform an ECR (electrical condition report) which is exactly the same process (visual only), and any further assessment would require floorboards to be pulled/etc. Seems backwards as all hell to me, but we went into negotiations budgeting for the worst (i.e. total rewire) so it's not all bad.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 18:40 |
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Southern Heel posted:Home inspection is a thing, and I paid top dollar - however they explicitly do not cover electrical work (in the UK) other than a visual inspection of sockets. Anything more requires a separate specialist, so I spoke to a number of firms all within the area and they advised they would be able to perform an ECR (electrical condition report) which is exactly the same process (visual only), and any further assessment would require floorboards to be pulled/etc. Seems backwards as all hell to me, but we went into negotiations budgeting for the worst (i.e. total rewire) so it's not all bad. The normal one doesn't even pull the cover on your panel to check for obvious signs of fire and fire accessories? I guess in a country with ring mains anything is possible.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 19:09 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Who needs insulation when you can have a roof made entirely of bird nests and bird corpses! What’s the R value of birds nests? Might want to leave it up there. Winter is coming quicker than you think.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 19:37 |
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stupid puma posted:What’s the R value of birds nests? Might want to leave it up there. Winter is coming quicker than you think. Thanksgiving and Xmas too, so the birds might come in handy as well.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 23:45 |
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Southern Heel posted:Home inspection is a thing, and I paid top dollar - however they explicitly do not cover electrical work (in the UK) other than a visual inspection of sockets. Anything more requires a separate specialist, so I spoke to a number of firms all within the area and they advised they would be able to perform an ECR (electrical condition report) which is exactly the same process (visual only), and any further assessment would require floorboards to be pulled/etc. Seems backwards as all hell to me, but we went into negotiations budgeting for the worst (i.e. total rewire) so it's not all bad. The only thing that's worthwhile (unless there's something suspicious / broken going in) is taking a look at the breaker panel & electricity meter. If they're really old 1950s stuff, it's a bad sign. If they've got a recent digital meter & a modern, clean looking panel it's a sign that a competent electrician has been there in the past decade. I paid 0 GBP for my inspection (from a master builder friend of my partners family), and I'd trust his experience far more than any of the inspectors.
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 12:09 |
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I have to add 450mm of insulation to my new loft. I hate loft insulation, and hugely doubt that the last layer will have a huge effect on what is not in any case a passive design. I also harbour the nagging suspicion that I'll be skimming a holowebsite on my holoviewer from the comfort of my 2023 holoroom and the holoheadline will pop up "fibreglass loft insulation linked to inevitable, asbestos-style lung cancer, itching".
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 12:23 |
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wooger posted:The only thing that's worthwhile (unless there's something suspicious / broken going in) is taking a look at the breaker panel & electricity meter. If they're really old 1950s stuff, it's a bad sign. GFCI testing is quick and easy too.
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 12:42 |
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wooger posted:The only thing that's worthwhile (unless there's something suspicious / broken going in) is taking a look at the breaker panel & electricity meter. If they're really old 1950s stuff, it's a bad sign. Yep, all modern and nice there, and in the anciliary buildings/kitchen. As everyone has said though, we won't know how the sockets/etc. are done until I can take the faces off, etc.
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 14:48 |
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Endie posted:I have to add 450mm of insulation to my new loft. I hate loft insulation, and hugely doubt that the last layer will have a huge effect on what is not in any case a passive design. Fiberglass is known harmful to breathe. That's something you can find out years ago. Why not use rockwool?
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 15:09 |
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H110Hawk posted:Fiberglass is known harmful to breathe. That's something you can find out years ago. Why not use rockwool? Ok then, if we're pedantic make the headline "mineral wool fibre loft insulation linked to inevitable, asbestos-style lung cancer, itching".
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 15:44 |
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Endie posted:Ok then, if we're pedantic make the headline "mineral wool fibre loft insulation linked to inevitable, asbestos-style lung cancer, itching". I was trying to help. At least rockwool is currently thought to be safer than fiberglass. In general exposed insulation skeeves me out.
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 16:40 |
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H110Hawk posted:I was trying to help. At least rockwool is currently thought to be safer than fiberglass. In general exposed insulation skeeves me out. I hate the stuff, and always use a mask, although anywhere that breath causes an air current around it (the cheekbones, particularly) ends up irritated. I am not looking forward to laying it half a metre thick across the entire loft space.
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# ? Nov 15, 2017 18:33 |
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Having a contractor tile our bathroom and install a new bathtub. Old one was installed just over the plywood subfloor. Looks like there floor is in fine condition, with a patch of discoloration due to water damage in one corner. The contractor thinks its fine to just install the new tub over the subfloor and just have waterproofing under the tiles. Is that fine or should I have him do waterproofing under the tub too? Also, getting a steel enameled tub. Is insulating under a tub a thing people do to minimize heat loss?
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 04:15 |
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Endie posted:I have to add 450mm of insulation to my new loft. I hate loft insulation, and hugely doubt that the last layer will have a huge effect on what is not in any case a passive design. Is blown cellulose an option? Can't get much less harmful then paper and borax!
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 04:29 |
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Time Trial posted:Having a contractor tile our bathroom and install a new bathtub. Old one was installed just over the plywood subfloor. Looks like there floor is in fine condition, with a patch of discoloration due to water damage in one corner. The contractor thinks its fine to just install the new tub over the subfloor and just have waterproofing under the tiles. Is that fine or should I have him do waterproofing under the tub too? Also, getting a steel enameled tub. Is insulating under a tub a thing people do to minimize heat loss? Ideally you want the tub to sit on a bed of mortar. And you are going to want some plastic (10mil or so is fine) between the mortar and your subfloor to keep the water from the curing mortar out of your subfloor. Helps if you can fill the tub too and let the water sit for a few days during the cure.
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 04:31 |
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devicenull posted:Is blown cellulose an option? Can't get much less harmful then paper and borax! What if I'm an ant or a wasp huh? Didn't think of that did you you insensitive clod.
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 07:29 |
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Kashwashwa posted:Quick plumbing question... I've lived in my super old house for about 18 months. My only bathroom is upstairs, and it almost never completely flushes properly. Quick follow up, it was the siphon jet hole at the bottom front of the toilet that was clogged with calcium build up... Goes to show I really don't know how a toilet works. Anyway, as the plumber said "if it's yellow, don't let it mellow".
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 15:27 |
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devicenull posted:Insulating/air sealing your attic is a better option. After comparing the costs I’ve decided to do this instead of heat tape. It would have been a couple hundred $$ plus the time putting it up, versus under $1500 to bring my attic up to R50 and seal it. Plus instead of wasting electricity running heat tape I’ll save on my heating bill now. The guy couldn’t guarantee no more ice dams but he said R50 in our area is more than enough.
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# ? Nov 16, 2017 16:35 |
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Time for a new dishwasher! I'm considering a Bosch 800 series (probably this one, though I have to admit I'm a bit intrigued by this back stainless one here). It sounds like Miele is a smidge more reliable but a fair bit ore expensive -- anyone here have any experience with the two lines? Also, the current dishwasher is hardwired. The second Bosch says ,"Hard-wire junction box included," and the first says, "Power cord included." Can I assume that the one with a power cord can have the cord removed in order to be wired up directly? I mean, I could have an outlet installed without too much difficulty, but I'm fine with keeping the dishwasher hardwired.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 17:02 |
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Time for a new dishwasher! I'm considering a Bosch 800 series (probably this one, though I have to admit I'm a bit intrigued by this back stainless one here). It sounds like Miele is a smidge more reliable but a fair bit ore expensive -- anyone here have any experience with the two lines? Also, the current dishwasher is hardwired. The second Bosch says ,"Hard-wire junction box included," and the first says, "Power cord included." Can I assume that the one with a power cord can have the cord removed in order to be wired up directly? I mean, I could have an outlet installed without too much difficulty, but I'm fine with keeping the dishwasher hardwired. I love my bosch, as does seemingly everyone in this thread who owns one. Go to a dealer (Pacific Sales for example) and ask them to get out the Big Book O Models. There will be a big centerfold ( ) of options. Go through there and build up the machine you want. I highly recommend the dedicated silverware third rack, and I regret buying one with front controls (1 year old kid) and no "self cleaning filter/garbage disposal." The silverware rack seems absurd, but it makes the dishwasher hold seemingly twice as much stuff as when we put the (included) silverware basket inside. Ask at the store what it comes with, the hardwire vs plug kit was a $15 option. I wouldn't buy a Miele at I presume twice the price. Just buy two of these.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:04 |
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H110Hawk posted:... and I regret buying one with front controls (1 year old kid) ... The reason we're finally replacing the one we've got is because we have a kid on the way. I hadn't even considered this, and thank you for it. I don't see any Bosch models with hard food disposals, but it looks like their filters are pretty easy to clean. None of the models I'm looking at -- in fact, none of the black Bosch dishwashers at all, according to their site -- have a water softener, which is a shame because our water is super-duper hard. Well, I've been considering a water softener anyway, so maybe now's the time ...
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:20 |
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tetrapyloctomy posted:The reason we're finally replacing the one we've got is because we have a kid on the way. I hadn't even considered this, and thank you for it. I don't see any Bosch models with hard food disposals, but it looks like their filters are pretty easy to clean. None of the models I'm looking at -- in fact, none of the black Bosch dishwashers at all, according to their site -- have a water softener, which is a shame because our water is super-duper hard. Well, I've been considering a water softener anyway, so maybe now's the time ... The filter is super easy to clean. We literally just get the solid food off our dishes and toss it in there. No prewash is necessary. We always use the "auto" mode. Protip: If you wind up with bottles, rinse tomato sauce off stuff before putting them in there or you will wind up with red bottles. Buy a basket and enough bottles to go a whole day, for us it was around a dozen. Then you just run the dishwasher daily w/ "sanitize" on and always have bottles. This included putting like raw chicken coated bowls and stuff in there with the bottles, no one ever got sick. We use the Cascade Platinum packs and they do get bottles cleaner than the Cascade Middle Ground ones. We also use jet dry and it's great, cuts 30 minutes off the cycle time. Don't use the eco mode, it saves like a gallon of water and a few hundred watt-hours of electricity. Half load also saves time and power but still gets stuff clean if it's really a half load. A standard load on auto uses 1.00 kwh according to my kill-a-watt, making it around $1/load to run "all in." (consumables like water, power, soap, rinse aid, plus arbitrary wear/tear number on the unit itself.) I would consider that a bargain at twice the price. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JE61O/ + https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LENCUE/ is what we used, but figure out what your baby likes with single bottles.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:44 |
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I have a Bosch 800 series with the 3rd rack for silverware. It owns. Would buy again.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 20:48 |
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All you Bosch havers should see if you're on the recent recall for the power cords catching fire
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 21:21 |
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Oh, hey, the murder room finally has some cold storage.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 01:16 |
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Time for a new dishwasher! I'm considering a Bosch 800 series (probably this one, though I have to admit I'm a bit intrigued by this back stainless one here). It sounds like Miele is a smidge more reliable but a fair bit ore expensive -- anyone here have any experience with the two lines? Also, the current dishwasher is hardwired. The second Bosch says ,"Hard-wire junction box included," and the first says, "Power cord included." Can I assume that the one with a power cord can have the cord removed in order to be wired up directly? I mean, I could have an outlet installed without too much difficulty, but I'm fine with keeping the dishwasher hardwired. I have a Bosch 500, whisper quiet running but drains like a semi truck gong by.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 01:39 |
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For babby 1 I rotated and sterilized bottles. For babby 2 I just handwashed one bottle 6-7 times a day. Maybe dipped it in boiling water sometimes. We got our new faucet. It has stream/shower, hard/soft flow and the pot-filler extending hose. It's very fancy and very shiny... and we have hot water in the kitchen now!
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 07:33 |
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I'm currently caught between a rock and an expensive bill. The long story short, is the wife and I plan on being ready to sell by June/July, I'm currently remodeling the kitchen with a complete rebuild. I've got cabinets already ordered, tile already picked, but my main issue comes to this. Do I tile all of the floor and install cabinets or install cabinets and then tile up to them? I'm leaning towards installing cabinets and tiling up to them for a number of reasons. Price (Again, selling in June/July) Not wanting to fight with leveling out the cabinets / counter tops, etc. It'll allow me to work on the back splash sooner, along with mineral oil soaking the counter tops. Opinions?
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# ? Nov 28, 2017 18:31 |
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kzersatz posted:I'm currently caught between a rock and an expensive bill. As someone who is having to replace a POS odd-sized glued-together sawdust vanity in a bathroom where someone did exactly that, your buyer is going to hate you if literally anything is flawed. I’m going to have to take up the gorgeous tile and replace it with lovely vinyl because I can’t afford to retile or find a matching-shaped vanity.
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# ? Nov 28, 2017 20:55 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:34 |
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kzersatz posted:I'm currently caught between a rock and an expensive bill. tom seems to think flooring last is fine https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ask-toh/flooring-first-or-cabinets Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 28, 2017 |
# ? Nov 28, 2017 21:03 |