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Dr. Gargunza posted:In that case, maybe look for a bright Vallejo silver, like one of their Metal Color line in the 17ml bottles. dexefiend posted:From sprue to this in 3 hours! Those are VMetalC Gunmetal -> Aluminum. They work so drat well. I have Steel, Gunmetal, Aluminum, Matte Aluminum, and Gold. They are my go to metallics.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:24 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 11:44 |
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Scale75 metals for life.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:31 |
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How would I paint normal armor. Lets say medieval plate armor. Would I need a matte metallic or is the glossy out-the-bottle metallic color fine? Would I just paint them steel colored
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:31 |
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Genghis Cohen posted:So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black. Liquitex black gesso is amazing. You just slather it on, and it dries so incredibly thin and strong. It's the best black primer I've ever seen and used. Only black though, none of the other color gesso primers are dry so thin, so don't use them. I use Vallejo light grey primer through an air brush for everything else though. 2-3 coats. I wish grey gesso worked because, seriously, it's that good. A single coat is all you'll ever need and nothing is going to ever chip it off.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:50 |
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Phi230 posted:One of my French Grenadiers actually stabbed me with his bayonet. Enough to draw blood Paint me like one of your French Grenadiers.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 18:51 |
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Genghis Cohen posted:So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black. Airbrush are great for this, as you can keep at your models until you hit all the spots - your primer is thin enough that it won't obscure detail. For brush on, you could use the Vallejo or Badger airbrush primers - they are really thin and you don't have to worry about thinning. As an aside, your primer coverage doesn't have to be 100% (unless you're doing zenithal priming or preshading.) Paints aren't going to start flaking off the model's armpit because you didn't coat completely.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 19:39 |
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Dr. Gargunza posted:In that case, maybe look for a bright Vallejo silver, like one of their Metal Color line in the 17ml bottles. They're very smooth, with extremely tiny pigment grains and a nice bright finish for all the ones I've tried in that series. I like them better than their alcohol-based Liquid Metal line in terms of ease of use and cleanup. That's actually what I already use, I was just hoping to be lazy and try a pen.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 21:11 |
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Always Airbrush on Stynylrez from Badger. Then either Vallejo Metal colour, or Scale 75 metallics. Always hail Satan.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:08 |
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dexefiend posted:Those are VMetalC Gunmetal -> Aluminum. They work so drat well. Wow, those look nice. (dammit dexefiend stop making me want to buy into Shadespire i have xmas gifts to buy)
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:16 |
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Pigma Micron pens are pretty great, and can get down to a .005 tip. If you go this route, make sure you get a hard nail polish enamel to cover it once it's completely dry. You can not touch the chrome at all until it is lacquered or else it will just end up being silver, rather than a mirror finish. Results: To show pink reflections on the weapon. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 17, 2017 |
# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:28 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Airbrush are great for this, as you can keep at your models until you hit all the spots - your primer is thin enough that it won't obscure detail. Philthy posted:Liquitex black gesso is amazing. You just slather it on, and it dries so incredibly thin and strong. It's the best black primer I've ever seen and used. Only black though, none of the other color gesso primers are dry so thin, so don't use them. Cat Face Joe posted:I use Vallejo paint on exclusively. People also say many good things about Badger Stynylrez. Thank you all. So Vallejo or liquitex black gesso, got it. Roger on the point about not needing complete coverage. But for the models I’m thinking of (imperial guard) black primer is left in the recesses for shading, or metallic is dry brushed over it, so I always like to try and get full coverage. Cheers again.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:34 |
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:If you go this route, make sure you get a hard nail polish enamel to cover it once it's completely dry. You can not touch the chrome at all until it is lacquered or else it will just end up being silver, rather than a mirror finish. Good tip, thanks! (I've gotten a kind of pebbly result on a couple of my chrome-pen experiments, and I thought that might have been due to a non-gloss black primer undercoat. I may have actually bumped it before it dried.) One thing the chrome pen is great for: gems. Specifically, as the base layer of GW's gemstone paints. Regular silver makes a nice reflective surface, but the chrome under the clear gel is brilliant.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:35 |
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Edited my post with pics.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 23:37 |
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Yeast posted:Always Airbrush on Stynylrez from Badger. How does Stynylrez compare to vallejo for airbrushing? I'm going to be airbrush priming a bunch of models soon and am curious which is easier to work with.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 02:49 |
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Booyah- posted:How does Stynylrez compare to vallejo for airbrushing? I'm going to be airbrush priming a bunch of models soon and am curious which is easier to work with. I personally prefer it to Vallejo quite a bit. Vallejo bothered me around masking and seemed less durable than the Stynylrez.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 02:53 |
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wdarkk posted:I personally prefer it to Vallejo quite a bit. Vallejo bothered me around masking and seemed less durable than the Stynylrez. I agree with both of these points. I have not looked back since switching from Vallejo to badger primer.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 03:05 |
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Dope, I will have to order some. I'm guessing it works straight from the bottle with little to no thinning?
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 03:17 |
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I prefer Badger to Vallejo out of the airbrush as well. Vallejo would gunk up and clog the brush every so often, haven't had that problem with Badger. Added bonus is the Badger grey primer is actually grey. Vallejo's grey is almost white. Edit: I go straight from the bottle without issues.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 03:18 |
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Red Cross blood donation truck incoming:
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 04:34 |
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I'll third the strylenze. getting used to is was a little weird but it's a superior painting surface. Anyway. Inspired by Gotta tighten up the masking. And get better at the airbrushing in general. But I'm pleased with this test piece.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 06:15 |
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Genghis Cohen posted:So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black. I recently got a bottle of Vallejo Black Primer Acrylic Polyurethane, 60ml. The bottle says it's for air, but it goes on smoothly with a brush. No thinning or anything needed. I don't think it needs to be a solid black coat to do its work either. Primed: Work in Progress: DiHK posted:
That's looking rad.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 07:13 |
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Booyah- posted:Dope, I will have to order some. I'm guessing it works straight from the bottle with little to no thinning? Yeah it works right out of the bottle. I bought the Badger stuff after I used the Vallejo primer and found that it wasn't durable at all.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 14:24 |
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DiHK posted:I'll third the strylenze. getting used to is was a little weird but it's a superior painting surface. One thing I would do differently if you want to match style is use the gradient between orange and red to represent height. Notice how it's a subtle shift, but it's consistent. That's only if you want to match that particular scheme. Otherwise I love it and may reserve the right to steal the inspiration for future work.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 14:27 |
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Cross posting from the oath thread! Chiwie posted:Oath Complete
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 14:28 |
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:One thing I would do differently if you want to match style is use the gradient between orange and red to represent height. Notice how it's a subtle shift, but it's consistent. YEah something really neat about the Foss piece is that there's a lot of geometry hidden in the color gradient. Easier to see in the full version. I think I'm going to go in a slightly different direction with the black mask but also add in some of that logic to the color. Feel free to theif. All art is stolen.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 16:10 |
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I bought the Badger stuff after I used the Vallejo primer and found that it wasn't durable at all. I did the same thing. For whatever reason, the Vallejo stuff gave me nothing but problems, but the Badger primer has been amazing.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 16:38 |
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Awesome, I ordered some. I've had issues with Vallejo primer rubbing off after brushing on as well. Is primer generally harder to work with in an airbrush? I'm going to start practicing with some water and very thin paint on a piece of paper, but really just want to get priming stuff asap.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 17:49 |
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Rock out with your cock out. First thing I did with the 105 was test Vallejo and Badger primers on models that I didn't really care about. I have found that the badger primer sticks to the metal brush better so you might wanna be a bit more aggressive with the cleaning.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 18:39 |
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"Shut the gently caress up and paint" is the best advice I've ever received with regards to mini painting
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 18:51 |
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Just got my Company of Iron box. The model looked so good I had to paint it right away.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 19:33 |
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That looks awesome. Not sure if she'll make it into normal minions lists or not but she seems legit in Company.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 19:57 |
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Pow 17 Mat 7 charge seems like it could turn some heads. Def 15 in melee with Riposte too. She seems like she could be a late game terror once most of the board has been attritioned away.
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 20:57 |
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Booyah- posted:Awesome, I ordered some. I've had issues with Vallejo primer rubbing off after brushing on as well. Primer is ridiculously forgiving. Just loving paint.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 00:26 |
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Been a while since I posted anything. For one, I got sick of every modelling tool being in stacks upon stacks of old cigar boxes. So I found an old empty wood box at a garage sale for $2, cleaned it up and made all the holders and tiny drawers. Now everything plus the plastics are in one spot. It's semi-transportable, kind of meant more like a somewhat mobile work station I can move a bit more easily than a pile of tools or cigar boxes. I'm thinking of doing a second box for the paints and airbrush. Has anyone else done something similar? I assume most have more permanent setups, but I tend to move around a lot. Removable parts for easy access: All drawer trays, pliers stand, and the razor/sculpting tool tray. Empty: Model holder things, in their holding brackets on the outer lid: (Drilled hickory dowel, counter sunk a long screw from the underside, and cut off half a cork and screw it down. Holds in without glue, and means the cork can be changed out when it eventually falls apart. The wood blocks hang off screws, and have insertable skewers with alligator clips to spray stuff on. Cutting matte on an mdf board I sprayed/clearcoated for a bit of durability. I later gave the matte a bit more slack to get rid of that bulge. The dowel ends cover screws so that cutting matte can be changed out, but a side bonus was they keep round tools from rolling onto the floor. Been in a building mood more than painting (though I also made myself a ramshackle spray booth out of an old furnace and a cardboard box), so instead here's the next vehicle in the same theme as my Inquisitor Battle Podium thing. I imagined it as being something of a pack mule/AFV/transport kind of role. The footprint is a bit larger than a rhino, but obviously almost 2.5x as tall. Thinking of adding a missile pod box to the side opposite of the sponson bolter, but construction has been slow going as I'm kind of making this up as I go along. Currently making stowage of various things, I think I need some boxes. I was surprised how well a tissue + watered down glue instantly turns into a wrinkly tarp with no effort. The muslin cloth comes out with a lot more volume and takes a of poking to get folds in it. Still debating on colours for all that stuff - I'm leaning more towards knightly/medieval patterns and colours over weathered/chipped gray basecoats. Anything glaringly lacking on the hovertank? The current to-do list is smoke launchers, missile box, soldering paperclips for bush guards.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 00:31 |
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That is baller as gently caress tbqh.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 00:44 |
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I needed a break from painting red all the time, and wanted to try weathering stuff without messing with the appearance of my main army. This is my first time weathering stuff / using pigments. Before I start on more squads and on vehicles, does anyone have any links to good tutorials, particularly for doing a more grey/urban weathering? Most of what I've seen focuses on doing mud or brown dust.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 02:03 |
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If you want, you can do yellow shading with pigments, and it's baller af.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 09:46 |
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VolatileSky posted:Been a while since I posted anything.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 13:05 |
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Finished up a dread droppod for my Heresy NightLords: and a shameless plug for my IG: https://www.instagram.com/loyalistsareboring/
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 18:32 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 11:44 |
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This is incredible. Your flayed flesh and the blue are amazing.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 18:51 |