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dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Dr. Gargunza posted:

In that case, maybe look for a bright Vallejo silver, like one of their Metal Color line in the 17ml bottles.

dexefiend posted:

From sprue to this in 3 hours!


Those are VMetalC Gunmetal -> Aluminum. They work so drat well.

I have Steel, Gunmetal, Aluminum, Matte Aluminum, and Gold. They are my go to metallics.

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bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug
Scale75 metals for life.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
How would I paint normal armor. Lets say medieval plate armor. Would I need a matte metallic or is the glossy out-the-bottle metallic color fine?

Would I just paint them steel colored

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug

Genghis Cohen posted:

So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black.

Liquitex black gesso is amazing. You just slather it on, and it dries so incredibly thin and strong. It's the best black primer I've ever seen and used. Only black though, none of the other color gesso primers are dry so thin, so don't use them.

I use Vallejo light grey primer through an air brush for everything else though. 2-3 coats. I wish grey gesso worked because, seriously, it's that good. A single coat is all you'll ever need and nothing is going to ever chip it off.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

Phi230 posted:

One of my French Grenadiers actually stabbed me with his bayonet. Enough to draw blood

Paint me like one of your French Grenadiers. :allears:

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Genghis Cohen posted:

So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black.

Airbrush are great for this, as you can keep at your models until you hit all the spots - your primer is thin enough that it won't obscure detail.

For brush on, you could use the Vallejo or Badger airbrush primers - they are really thin and you don't have to worry about thinning.

As an aside, your primer coverage doesn't have to be 100% (unless you're doing zenithal priming or preshading.) Paints aren't going to start flaking off the model's armpit because you didn't coat completely.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Dr. Gargunza posted:

In that case, maybe look for a bright Vallejo silver, like one of their Metal Color line in the 17ml bottles. They're very smooth, with extremely tiny pigment grains and a nice bright finish for all the ones I've tried in that series. I like them better than their alcohol-based Liquid Metal line in terms of ease of use and cleanup.

That's actually what I already use, I was just hoping to be lazy and try a pen.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
Always Airbrush on Stynylrez from Badger.

Then either Vallejo Metal colour, or Scale 75 metallics.

Always hail Satan.

Dr. Gargunza
May 19, 2011

He damned me for a eunuch,
and my mother for a whore.



Fun Shoe

dexefiend posted:

Those are VMetalC Gunmetal -> Aluminum. They work so drat well.

I have Steel, Gunmetal, Aluminum, Matte Aluminum, and Gold. They are my go to metallics.

Wow, those look nice. (dammit dexefiend stop making me want to buy into Shadespire i have xmas gifts to buy)

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Dr. Gargunza posted:

Pigma Micron pens are pretty great, and can get down to a .005 tip.

I'm not sure what you're going for with edging silver, but check Amazon for Molotow chrome ink pens. We've discussed them a few months ago in the thread; they're basically like painting with mercury. Scale modelers use them to create realistic chrome effects on classic car bumpers and trim.

If you go this route, make sure you get a hard nail polish enamel to cover it once it's completely dry. You can not touch the chrome at all until it is lacquered or else it will just end up being silver, rather than a mirror finish.

Results:





To show pink reflections on the weapon.

Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 17, 2017

Genghis Cohen
Jun 29, 2013

berzerkmonkey posted:

Airbrush are great for this, as you can keep at your models until you hit all the spots - your primer is thin enough that it won't obscure detail.

For brush on, you could use the Vallejo or Badger airbrush primers - they are really thin and you don't have to worry about thinning.

As an aside, your primer coverage doesn't have to be 100% (unless you're doing zenithal priming or preshading.) Paints aren't going to start flaking off the model's armpit because you didn't coat completely.

Philthy posted:

Liquitex black gesso is amazing. You just slather it on, and it dries so incredibly thin and strong. It's the best black primer I've ever seen and used. Only black though, none of the other color gesso primers are dry so thin, so don't use them.

I use Vallejo light grey primer through an air brush for everything else though. 2-3 coats. I wish grey gesso worked because, seriously, it's that good. A single coat is all you'll ever need and nothing is going to ever chip it off.

Cat Face Joe posted:

I use Vallejo paint on exclusively. People also say many good things about Badger Stynylrez.

Thank you all. So Vallejo or liquitex black gesso, got it. Roger on the point about not needing complete coverage. But for the models I’m thinking of (imperial guard) black primer is left in the recesses for shading, or metallic is dry brushed over it, so I always like to try and get full coverage. Cheers again.

Dr. Gargunza
May 19, 2011

He damned me for a eunuch,
and my mother for a whore.



Fun Shoe

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

If you go this route, make sure you get a hard nail polish enamel to cover it once it's completely dry. You can not touch the chrome at all until it is lacquered or else it will just end up being silver, rather than a mirror finish.

Good tip, thanks! (I've gotten a kind of pebbly result on a couple of my chrome-pen experiments, and I thought that might have been due to a non-gloss black primer undercoat. I may have actually bumped it before it dried.)
One thing the chrome pen is great for: gems. Specifically, as the base layer of GW's gemstone paints. Regular silver makes a nice reflective surface, but the chrome under the clear gel is brilliant.

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Edited my post with pics.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Yeast posted:

Always Airbrush on Stynylrez from Badger.

Then either Vallejo Metal colour, or Scale 75 metallics.

Always hail Satan.

How does Stynylrez compare to vallejo for airbrushing? I'm going to be airbrush priming a bunch of models soon and am curious which is easier to work with.

wdarkk
Oct 26, 2007

Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

Booyah- posted:

How does Stynylrez compare to vallejo for airbrushing? I'm going to be airbrush priming a bunch of models soon and am curious which is easier to work with.

I personally prefer it to Vallejo quite a bit. Vallejo bothered me around masking and seemed less durable than the Stynylrez.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

wdarkk posted:

I personally prefer it to Vallejo quite a bit. Vallejo bothered me around masking and seemed less durable than the Stynylrez.

I agree with both of these points. I have not looked back since switching from Vallejo to badger primer.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Dope, I will have to order some. I'm guessing it works straight from the bottle with little to no thinning?

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

I prefer Badger to Vallejo out of the airbrush as well. Vallejo would gunk up and clog the brush every so often, haven't had that problem with Badger.

Added bonus is the Badger grey primer is actually grey. Vallejo's grey is almost white.

Edit: I go straight from the bottle without issues.

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Red Cross blood donation truck incoming:




DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
I'll third the strylenze. getting used to is was a little weird but it's a superior painting surface.

Anyway.



Inspired by



Gotta tighten up the masking. And get better at the airbrushing in general. But I'm pleased with this test piece.

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space

Genghis Cohen posted:

So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black.

I recently got a bottle of Vallejo Black Primer Acrylic Polyurethane, 60ml. The bottle says it's for air, but it goes on smoothly with a brush. No thinning or anything needed. I don't think it needs to be a solid black coat to do its work either.

Primed:


Work in Progress:




DiHK posted:


Anyway.




That's looking rad.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Booyah- posted:

Dope, I will have to order some. I'm guessing it works straight from the bottle with little to no thinning?

Yeah it works right out of the bottle. I bought the Badger stuff after I used the Vallejo primer and found that it wasn't durable at all.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

DiHK posted:

I'll third the strylenze. getting used to is was a little weird but it's a superior painting surface.

Anyway.



Inspired by



Gotta tighten up the masking. And get better at the airbrushing in general. But I'm pleased with this test piece.

One thing I would do differently if you want to match style is use the gradient between orange and red to represent height. Notice how it's a subtle shift, but it's consistent.

That's only if you want to match that particular scheme. Otherwise I love it and may reserve the right to steal the inspiration for future work.

Chiwie
Oct 21, 2010

DROP YOUR COAT AND GRAB YOUR TOES, I'LL SHOW YOU WHERE THE WILD GOOSE GOES!!!!
Cross posting from the oath thread!

Chiwie posted:

Oath Complete





Claiming Rescue Ranger as per og post. Claiming journal for the dust on it's booties, the barred metal and brown wash I put on some of the metal. Sadly on the last two it didn't really show up on the photo. :(

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

One thing I would do differently if you want to match style is use the gradient between orange and red to represent height. Notice how it's a subtle shift, but it's consistent.

That's only if you want to match that particular scheme. Otherwise I love it and may reserve the right to steal the inspiration for future work.


YEah something really neat about the Foss piece is that there's a lot of geometry hidden in the color gradient. Easier to see in the full version.



I think I'm going to go in a slightly different direction with the black mask but also add in some of that logic to the color. Feel free to theif. All art is stolen.

Broken Record Talk
Jul 28, 2009

A three-hundred thousand degree baptism by nuclear fire;
we had it coming.

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

I bought the Badger stuff after I used the Vallejo primer and found that it wasn't durable at all.

I did the same thing. For whatever reason, the Vallejo stuff gave me nothing but problems, but the Badger primer has been amazing.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Awesome, I ordered some. I've had issues with Vallejo primer rubbing off after brushing on as well.

Is primer generally harder to work with in an airbrush? I'm going to start practicing with some water and very thin paint on a piece of paper, but really just want to get priming stuff asap.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
Rock out with your cock out. First thing I did with the 105 was test Vallejo and Badger primers on models that I didn't really care about. I have found that the badger primer sticks to the metal brush better so you might wanna be a bit more aggressive with the cleaning.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
"Shut the gently caress up and paint" is the best advice I've ever received with regards to mini painting

counterspin
Apr 2, 2010

Just got my Company of Iron box. The model looked so good I had to paint it right away.

S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

That looks awesome. Not sure if she'll make it into normal minions lists or not but she seems legit in Company.

counterspin
Apr 2, 2010

Pow 17 Mat 7 charge seems like it could turn some heads. Def 15 in melee with Riposte too. She seems like she could be a late game terror once most of the board has been attritioned away.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Booyah- posted:

Awesome, I ordered some. I've had issues with Vallejo primer rubbing off after brushing on as well.

Is primer generally harder to work with in an airbrush? I'm going to start practicing with some water and very thin paint on a piece of paper, but really just want to get priming stuff asap.

Primer is ridiculously forgiving. Just loving paint.

VolatileSky
May 5, 2007
i'm gay thx
Been a while since I posted anything.

For one, I got sick of every modelling tool being in stacks upon stacks of old cigar boxes. So I found an old empty wood box at a garage sale for $2, cleaned it up and made all the holders and tiny drawers. Now everything plus the plastics are in one spot. It's semi-transportable, kind of meant more like a somewhat mobile work station I can move a bit more easily than a pile of tools or cigar boxes. I'm thinking of doing a second box for the paints and airbrush. Has anyone else done something similar? I assume most have more permanent setups, but I tend to move around a lot.

Removable parts for easy access: All drawer trays, pliers stand, and the razor/sculpting tool tray.
Empty:


Model holder things, in their holding brackets on the outer lid:


(Drilled hickory dowel, counter sunk a long screw from the underside, and cut off half a cork and screw it down. Holds in without glue, and means the cork can be changed out when it eventually falls apart.

The wood blocks hang off screws, and have insertable skewers with alligator clips to spray stuff on.
Cutting matte on an mdf board I sprayed/clearcoated for a bit of durability. I later gave the matte a bit more slack to get rid of that bulge. The dowel ends cover screws so that cutting matte can be changed out, but a side bonus was they keep round tools from rolling onto the floor.


Been in a building mood more than painting (though I also made myself a ramshackle spray booth out of an old furnace and a cardboard box), so instead here's the next vehicle in the same theme as my Inquisitor Battle Podium thing. I imagined it as being something of a pack mule/AFV/transport kind of role. The footprint is a bit larger than a rhino, but obviously almost 2.5x as tall. Thinking of adding a missile pod box to the side opposite of the sponson bolter, but construction has been slow going as I'm kind of making this up as I go along.






Currently making stowage of various things, I think I need some boxes. I was surprised how well a tissue + watered down glue instantly turns into a wrinkly tarp with no effort. The muslin cloth comes out with a lot more volume and takes a of poking to get folds in it.


Still debating on colours for all that stuff - I'm leaning more towards knightly/medieval patterns and colours over weathered/chipped gray basecoats. Anything glaringly lacking on the hovertank? The current to-do list is smoke launchers, missile box, soldering paperclips for bush guards.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
That is baller as gently caress tbqh.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer
I needed a break from painting red all the time, and wanted to try weathering stuff without messing with the appearance of my main army.



This is my first time weathering stuff / using pigments. Before I start on more squads and on vehicles, does anyone have any links to good tutorials, particularly for doing a more grey/urban weathering? Most of what I've seen focuses on doing mud or brown dust.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
If you want, you can do yellow shading with pigments, and it's baller af.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

VolatileSky posted:

Been a while since I posted anything.

For one, I got sick of every modelling tool being in stacks upon stacks of old cigar boxes. So I found an old empty wood box at a garage sale for $2, cleaned it up and made all the holders and tiny drawers. Now everything plus the plastics are in one spot. It's semi-transportable, kind of meant more like a somewhat mobile work station I can move a bit more easily than a pile of tools or cigar boxes. I'm thinking of doing a second box for the paints and airbrush. Has anyone else done something similar? I assume most have more permanent setups, but I tend to move around a lot.

Removable parts for easy access: All drawer trays, pliers stand, and the razor/sculpting tool tray.
Empty:


Model holder things, in their holding brackets on the outer lid:


(Drilled hickory dowel, counter sunk a long screw from the underside, and cut off half a cork and screw it down. Holds in without glue, and means the cork can be changed out when it eventually falls apart.

The wood blocks hang off screws, and have insertable skewers with alligator clips to spray stuff on.
Cutting matte on an mdf board I sprayed/clearcoated for a bit of durability. I later gave the matte a bit more slack to get rid of that bulge. The dowel ends cover screws so that cutting matte can be changed out, but a side bonus was they keep round tools from rolling onto the floor.

That's some seriously comfy old-style toolbox. Awesome job.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Finished up a dread droppod for my Heresy NightLords:






and a shameless plug for my IG:

https://www.instagram.com/loyalistsareboring/

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bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug
This is incredible. Your flayed flesh and the blue are amazing.

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