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yeah i'm the one whose dyno is broken
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Nov 19, 2017 03:53
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 06:04 |
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Best power mod I ever did to any bike was a 1/5 turn throttle tube swap on my SV650 many moons ago. Not that I have done many power mods because I'm not a fan of the $$ involved with aftermarket poo poo. Gearing / throttle tubes are the poor and lazy man's path to making a bike 'faster'.
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Nov 19, 2017 05:31
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Grom airbox derestriction is A Thing and really makes big difference. It took the grom from "eeeehhh I guess this thing can keep up with traffic?!" to being a competent and capable little zipper. I'm not bragging about "mah boosted busa" here, so you can get your hand off your low hanging fruit ok?
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Nov 19, 2017 05:32
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Coydog posted:so you can get your hand off your low hanging fruit ok? 
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Nov 19, 2017 08:39
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When the guy with the tiniest bike tells you how to masturbate you goddamn sit and listen.
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Nov 19, 2017 19:04
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It's winter and my bikes are looking to be outside (under cover) for the duration. I want to get the dent in my Rex's tank PDR'ed out if possible; any problem if I take the tank off the bike and bring just that inside, empty? Still gonna drain the carbs.
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Nov 19, 2017 20:21
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Phy posted:It's winter and my bikes are looking to be outside (under cover) for the duration. I want to get the dent in my Rex's tank PDR'ed out if possible; any problem if I take the tank off the bike and bring just that inside, empty? Still gonna drain the carbs. Seal up the airbox intake.
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Nov 20, 2017 00:16
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I need to service the forks on my 1976 GL-1000. I spoke with the PO, and he's never serviced them, and suspects the oil inside is either factory, or sometime from the 80s. The FSM says to use 200cc of automatic transmission fluid. What's a good weight fork oil for replacement, and is there a CA recommended brand? I think I'd like something that plays nicely with the NOS seals I'm getting, if such a thing exists.
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Nov 20, 2017 00:23
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I need to service the forks on my 1976 GL-1000. I spoke with the PO, and he's never serviced them, and suspects the oil inside is either factory, or sometime from the 80s. http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8475 Why not just use 5 or 10wt fork oil? I’d probably change it and go for a ride and then change it again depending on how it felt and how hard changing it is.
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Nov 20, 2017 00:33
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Dex III works out to about 15w if I remember rightly. Tbh with a bike that old the handling deficiencies are so built-in that the fork oil viscosity is small fish by comparison.
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Nov 20, 2017 01:20
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So, I dumped my F4i at the track today. It has, from what I can tell, a hotbodies race body kit on it. Sliding down the track has taken its toll on that bodywork and it needs to be replaced. Sportbike Track Gear is selling HB body kits for half off (https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/hotbodies-racing-honda-cbr600f4i-01-06-race-bodywork/). Competitor's kits are twice as much. Should I really go with an Armour kit instead (https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/armour-bodies-honda-cbr600f4i-01-06-pro-series-bodywork/)?
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Nov 27, 2017 06:49
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multimeter-esque question incoming My 2011 Kawasaki EX250 has developed a curious problem with the turn signals. Let me preface this by saying that when I bought the bike, the previous owner had installed an after-market HIDzzzz headlamp and LED blinkers. I am not sure as to what exact wiring modifications he made with this, but given some of the quality of wiring modifications that I have come across I am suspicious this could be contributing. Anyway. Turn signals worked fine the last time I rode the bike, sometime about a year ago. It sat for a while being neglected, and I have since cleaned the carb and it's running fine. Since working on the bike this month, the turn signals haven't worked. First thing I did was change the fuse, and the turn signal fuse was blown - the fuses are 10 A stock, and they are 20 A from what I'm assuming the aftermarket stuff is. The lights then turned on, but solidly and do not flash. From what I read online, this is common when installing LED turn signals because of the lack of resistance or heat generation compared to incandescent bulbs, and a replacement flasher (Tridon EP34: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00064LQKS/) is the recommended replacement. I thought it was curious that the signals were working before, but figured that whatever flasher relay was installed was fried, and ordered it. Today I went to install the Tridon and have had some interesting finds. There was NOT a stock flasher relay, but one called "Rumble Concepts Honda LED Easy Plug Relay RU 35956." I can't find much info on this, except that it doesn't have the correct spade connectors that are on the 250. On the unit installed on my motorcycle, it looks like some 20 gauge spade connecters were installed and shoved into the stock 14-16 gauge female spade connector. The stock female connector was deformed and looked like it had melted, and there was some visible wire fraying on the Rumble relay. So, the stock connector was deformed enough that I couldn't plug in the Tridon relay, and the Tridon relay is a 3-prong connector and needs a grounding wire. I went ahead and made a grounding wire, and then clipped off the stock spade connector and replaced them with some new one. The blinkers don't work with the Tridon relay - when I turn on the turn signals, the dash light barely lights up. If I connect the wires of the old Rumble relay, the lights work as they did before - one side lights up at a time, but doesn't flash. Right now I'm between dropping $25 on a new Rumble relay since it SEEMS to have worked in whatever wacky configuration the PO came up with, but I also have the Tridon relay and am pretty confused as to why it's not working. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas of how to get this functioning again? e: another piece of information - if I short the relay connectors, the turn signals light up. I take this to mean that the problem is with the relay and not the wiring? Laminator fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 01:25
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nevermind to all of the above - the relay I ordered was defective, bought a new one at AutoZone and it is working fine. 
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Nov 28, 2017 02:42
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Glad you found the error, but I'd really look over the wires the PO has messed with. Why would a indicator relay need an upgrade from a 10 amp fuse? Leds use less power than incandescent. But anyway, when dropping in led indicators there is mainly 2 ways to do it. Stock relay + inline resistors or led compatible relay and no resistors. Most stock relays will do the broken bulb fast blink if you just drop in led indicators, as the lower watts of the leds trips it. It is also totally possible to have rear leds with inline resistors and front normal bulbs with the stock relay if you got fairing integrated front pods.
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Nov 28, 2017 07:43
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Continuing multimeter chat: my tail light is flickering because of a frayed wire between the ignition and its plug. The cheapest fix is obviously some kind of wire splice but because of where the break is (not only connected to the ignition, but right next to the hole in the frame that leads through to the airbox) I can't get the broken piece of harness off the bike and indoors to do it the way I'd like. Any suggestions what I can do? Presumably get a uh, what are they called, posilock connector? Cut the bundle open and shove that in the break. After removing the battery, obviously.
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Nov 29, 2017 11:52
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Having a real hard time picturing what you're talking about. Suffice it to say the bike didn't grow in it's mother's womb with a wiring harness sprouting from the frame, there's a way to take it apart and do it properly. Cramming a splice on there will just make things worse in the long run.
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Nov 29, 2017 19:10
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Just twist the wires together and wrap electrical tape around it.
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Nov 29, 2017 19:55
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Coydog posted:Just twist the wires together and wrap electrical tape around it. Thanks, I figured I was probably overthinking it. Slavvy posted:Having a real hard time picturing what you're talking about. Not my bike, but close enough:  It's that cable to the right of the yoke, between the tank and the fork tube. I can't get it off the bike without dismantling the upper triple and removing the fuel tank and airbox (because the plug where it connects to the rest of the harness is underneath those things).
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Nov 29, 2017 20:13
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Renaissance Robot posted:Thanks, I figured I was probably overthinking it. He was joking don't do this jesus christ. Coydog posted:Just twist the wires together and wrap electrical tape around it. You were joking right?...right? RR, taking off the tank and airbox is pretty straightforward with basic tools and from the look of the picture there's no real way to do it correctly without doing those things. I don't think you need to do it indoors, you just need to disassemble the bike enough to unplug that bit and dangle it out to give you enough room to work. If it's actually a frayed wire you need to repair it properly by cutting, soldering and heatshrinking or whatever nerdy method you want to use; simply running a bypass with some lovely splice clamps will eventually make things worse because they'll gently caress out and you'll then have more, and messier, work to do to fix it properly like you should've the first time. Don't be that PO.
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Nov 29, 2017 20:52
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Slavvy posted:He was joking don't do this jesus christ. Oh my god yes give me some credit.
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Nov 30, 2017 07:02
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Installing heated grips on my WR250R soon. I bought some Oxford unit that has a built in vibration sensor of some kind that turns it off after some time. Is there any reason to get it wired up with an ignition relay? Longer term I would like to add a small ignition keyed relay/distribution block of some kind for a few further upgrades (Lights, Heated Gear) so I don’t just have a stack of connections on my battery. Any advice?
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Nov 30, 2017 14:38
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kuffs posted:So, I dumped my F4i at the track today. It has, from what I can tell, a hotbodies race body kit on it. Sliding down the track has taken its toll on that bodywork and it needs to be replaced. It depends. Hotbodies is hot garbage and only worth it when they do their yearly bogo deal, because it usually comes apart after one crash (and this is after you spend hours trying to work around their shittt fitment). Stuff like armourbodies and sharkskinz lasts at least a couple of crashes.
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Nov 30, 2017 15:02
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Speaking of fairings- What are my options for replacing fairings with OEM originals? My right fairing has been scratched since I bought the bike. Does Honda even sell painted/decal'd fairings or am I stuck trying to find fairings from a bike that was crashed on the opposite side?
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Nov 30, 2017 16:59
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Unless you get lucky and find some clean ones on ebay, your only choice is getting them off a parts site like partzilla or bikebandit for $$$$. Don’t bother with the chinese knockoffs, those are awful.
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Nov 30, 2017 17:04
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Fifty Three posted:Speaking of fairings- What are my options for replacing fairings with OEM originals? My right fairing has been scratched since I bought the bike. Does Honda even sell painted/decal'd fairings or am I stuck trying to find fairings from a bike that was crashed on the opposite side? It doesn't hurt to ask the dealer, Honda stock a surprising amount of random fairings. They usually come with the decals already on.
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Nov 30, 2017 19:09
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Yeah, at somewhere like Ron Ayers a partial OEM fairing could be like $350 US for one side.
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Nov 30, 2017 19:29
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Make sure to color compare any new fairing you are wanting to swap with the rest of the bike. If the old fairings are sun worn and faded it may look worse to replace the fairings piecemeal.
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Nov 30, 2017 19:52
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:Installing heated grips on my WR250R soon. I bought some Oxford unit that has a built in vibration sensor of some kind that turns it off after some time. I didn't notice any drain on the set I had hooked straight to the battery on my old old bike. If you're wanting to sort a possible mess of cables I think you can get an accessory box for wiring stuff into? Someone else chime in I know I've seen it discussed before.
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Dec 1, 2017 00:54
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So I have a decision to make, I'm selling my bike (200cc single) and moving to something a bit more modern and nicer. Long story short I'm thinking about the bike I REALLY want vs what make better financial sense. Both are beginner fiendly sub 500cc bike. The one I really want is an MT03, so basically a naked R3  The other is... Not so nice but pretty much 40% less expensive. I'm not doing too bad for myself and neither one is going to kill my finances, but for something that is pretty much a toy, maybe the other choice is good enough while saving me a lot more money:  Benelli TNT25 (a italian design made by a Asian conglomerate) In other words, brain or heart? And weirdly the heart part is Japanese and the brain part is italian.
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Dec 1, 2017 12:32
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gently caress it, my wife said : Buy the MT03 you cheap bastard.
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Dec 1, 2017 12:40
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Buy the MT-03. The fz/mt series is a blast to ride and super manueverable. Also lol at buying discount euro bikes made in china. Its going to be spewing “character” all over the road.
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Dec 1, 2017 13:56
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Yeah I think the Yammie is the right choice here too. It's both the correct brain and heart decision.
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Dec 1, 2017 18:49
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Those TNT's are flaming turds.
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Dec 1, 2017 20:08
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M42 posted:Don’t bother with the chinese knockoffs, those are awful.
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Dec 2, 2017 02:50
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tnt is a good name for a chinese bike.
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Dec 2, 2017 06:02
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Seriously. If someone gave you a set for free you might still think twice about it. That's how bad they are. My stepfather partakes in some scooter races where the aim is to get as far as you can before the engine blows. Rules are pretty simple. You're allowed one donor scooter to filch parts from but once your scooter's hosed, that's it. All the cheap chinese ones are ALWAYS the first to go.
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Dec 3, 2017 08:19
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Like endurance races? That's pretty cool actually
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Dec 4, 2017 00:45
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Are you referring to the whenuipai races Odette?
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Dec 4, 2017 04:59
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Goddammit what a poo poo morning, my jump start power pack was only delivered Sunday night so I've had to deal with jumping my dead battery back to life (made in China instructions which basically don't explain how to use it). So I get it running and set off for work when I notice my speedo isn't moving because the loving cable is dragging on the road, I turn back home and piece it back together to set off again... but it still doesn't work. So when I get back home tonight I plan on having a closer look, for whatever reason the cable somehow slid out from the plastic sleeve so I'm under the impression that I just need to push the cable allllllll the way up as far as I can into the display cluster and tighten it back up?
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Dec 4, 2017 11:32
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 06:04 |
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Just had to get up at 3am to hunt for a gas leak in the house, turned out a full can of chain cleaner spontaneously developed a pinhole in the side seam and was making GBS threads propellant all over the place. Any way this is my fault or is it just a random manufacturing defect? It was stored on its side in a box indoors for a few months.
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Dec 6, 2017 04:22
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