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They dont sell the little packets with sparkplugs? They may call it somwthing else old school guys here call it bulb grease.
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Nov 21, 2017 05:43
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So I'm a dumb. I'm not sure if my car has a cambelt (which would be up for replacment) or a chain. It's a 2005 Toyota Ist, with more details here: https://www.motorweb.co.nz/pub/vehicle/1296111845/render/476da3e6
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Nov 21, 2017 06:22
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You can get dielectric grease at SuperCheap Auto at the very least. What's your local parts store, General?
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Nov 21, 2017 06:28
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Trauma Dog 3000 posted:So I'm a dumb. I'm not sure if my car has a cambelt (which would be up for replacment) or a chain. It's a 2005 Toyota Ist, with more details here: https://www.motorweb.co.nz/pub/vehicle/1296111845/render/476da3e6 The IST has the NZ engine, which uses a timing chain. Should be good for the life of the engine.
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Nov 21, 2017 06:30
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Deteriorata posted:The IST has the NZ engine, which uses a timing chain. Should be good for the life of the engine. Cheers, that would have been embarrassing.
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Nov 21, 2017 06:32
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DogonCrook posted:They dont sell the little packets with sparkplugs? They may call it somwthing else old school guys here call it bulb grease. I have never seen this before. And I have bought boxes of spark plugs. Memento posted:You can get dielectric grease at SuperCheap Auto at the very least. What's your local parts store, General? Hmm. Apparently my nearest one is about 75km away according to the locator. Never even knew there was one there. It says they post. 2 to 5 business days postage. The optimist in me says that's good. The realist says next Tuesday. I bought a tube on their online store and the shipping time magically changed to 3-7 days, and I noticed the nearest store thing had changed to one about 150km lolwtf. Oh that's nice. They endeavour to process the order within 48 hours. Oh! Oh! Their system is having some difficulty and there may be delays. Hahaha! Their stupid membership club costs $5 to join, but I did it anyway. Receipt free warranty seems useful. Especially for car batteries. Although I can't ever recall having a pre-meditated car battery purchase. Shame I couldn't get it through Bursons or Repco in person (distance and availability) because they seem to give me trade discounts for some reason.
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Nov 21, 2017 09:10
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Denver is now sending people out at 1AM to give tickets to parked cars without front plates and they got me despite my plate being displayed behind windshield. My car is a 2008 Jetta, and are any of the no drill options better or worse than the others? Just has to be functional, not pretty
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Nov 21, 2017 15:44
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Tow hook mount
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Nov 21, 2017 15:46
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General_Failure posted:I have never seen this before. And I have bought boxes of spark plugs. In the US, they're usually sitting next to the registers, because they're a fantastic impulse-buy item. It's usually very similar to this (brake pad grease in similar packets):  but I've also seen these: 
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Nov 21, 2017 17:08
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Godholio posted:In the US, they're usually sitting next to the registers, because they're a fantastic impulse-buy item. It's usually very similar to this (brake pad grease in similar packets): Small cans of dielectric grease are available too. I bought one to redo all the electrical connectors on my 1988 F150, along with replacing half of the pigtails. I used it all up and am on my second. No more electrical gremlins! Oh yeah, keep a towel on hand. They like to spurt out a little extra after you're done pressing the trigger.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:21
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kid sinister posted:Oh yeah, keep a towel on hand. They like to spurt out a little extra after you're done pressing the trigger. 
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Nov 21, 2017 17:27
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Anyone know 7th gen Civics well? Girlfriend's car is an 03 Civic EX automatic. Popped one of the hoses to the TB that runs coolant a couple weeks ago, I replaced it / coolant bleed / new radiator cap. Also replaced the alternator since the battery light would occasionally flash and the bearing in it was getting noisy. I don't know if it's coincidental, but the car will sometimes cut out for a brief second when driving down the road at a steady speed, or cut out when stopped at a light. Like a quick hiccup. Seems like a little bit more vibration at idle than usual, but I don't drive the car often at all. Anything common on these cars that causes this? I do have a head gasket tester on the way, just in case.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:28
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BlackMK4 posted:
Probably not a HG. One thing can cause the other if the battery is weak and or voltages wander with an intermittent alternator.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:31
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I believe I've replaced the battery within the last 8 months or so, but I'll test it to be sure. We all know how Arizona loves to nuke batteries  I figured the alternator was causing the cut-out, but it seems to still be happening.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:45
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Re-sealing a hydraulic motor. We seem to have run out of O ring lube. I usually use it on seals that have to be (gently) tapped in to place. Since brake fluid is pretty much hydraulic fluid, can I use that as a substitute? I've got some of that lying around from changing a brake caliper a few months ago.
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Nov 21, 2017 18:15
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My truck STILL leaks oil.  I don't get it! 1988 Ford F150 302. I did another by-the-book RMS change and it still leaks bad! I replaced the PCV, vacuum hose and grommet. What's left? It idled just fine for 20 minutes in my driveway yesterday and didn't leak a single drop, but today I went to Autozone 5 minutes away to get a foot of 3/8" vacuum tube. I noticed 2 drops hanging underneath and figured I could live with a that. Then I went to drop off a package at Fedex 5 minutes further away and it's leaking. I drive the 10 minutes home and the leak is as bad as before I replaced it! What could cause a vehicle to leak only when it's moving? Back before I replaced the RMS that it wouldn't leak while idling in my driveway.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:05
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kid sinister posted:My truck STILL leaks oil. Well, just spitballing some ideas. Maybe a bad oil pan gasket? High enough up that it wouldn't leak while sitting still, but sloshing/splashing while driving the oil could get to it. Maybe the oil filter gasket? Expands enough when hot to let some oil through. Could be any number of gaskets/seals. You'll probably have to spend some time tracing the source of it.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:20
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Deteriorata posted:Well, just spitballing some ideas. Maybe a bad oil pan gasket? High enough up that it wouldn't leak while sitting still, but sloshing/splashing while driving the oil could get to it. Maybe the oil filter gasket? Expands enough when hot to let some oil through. Could be any number of gaskets/seals. It's definitely coming from the rear of the engine. When I took off everything down to the RMS, there was oil on the back side of the flywheel, along with everything else in the bellhousing. Everything forward of the transmission plate is clean. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Nov 21, 2017 |
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Nov 21, 2017 21:43
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Excess crank case pressure blowing the seal, breather clogged?
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Nov 21, 2017 21:55
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Yeah i was kinda sceptical its a blown ring because its not smoking, but unless there is a clog after the valve the pressure is coming from somewhere. Imo get a vac gauge pop it on the manifold and see whats going on internally. A blown ring will be obvious this way. http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/ If everything is fine then look for the leak but in 5 mins with a vac gauge youll know if its even worth it.
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Nov 21, 2017 22:08
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DeesGrandpa posted:Denver is now sending people out at 1AM to give tickets to parked cars without front plates and they got me despite my plate being displayed behind windshield. My car is a 2008 Jetta, and are any of the no drill options better or worse than the others? Just has to be functional, not pretty Tow hook mount is a good idea. I'm in CA and use industrial-strength 3M velcro. Gently curve your plate to match the curve on the bumper and make sure to apply plenty of pressure to ensure good adhesion. It may be a bit of a ghetto solution but it's worked perfectly so far for about 18 months surviving thousands of miles of really heavy downpours, strong winds and very hot, dry heat. Every now and again I give the plate a few gentle pulls to make sure it's still strongly attached. No idea how it'll handle snow, though.
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Nov 21, 2017 22:15
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kid sinister posted:Small cans of dielectric grease are available too. I bought one to redo all the electrical connectors on my 1988 F150, along with replacing half of the pigtails. I used it all up and am on my second. No more electrical gremlins! Heh. Hehehe What got me is every search I did on the web consisted of a similar scenario. People asking where the hell to get dielectric grease (many Aussie), and people in the U.S. replying at [ X ] store in the U.S. I was starting to wonder if it was a banned item for some bullshit reason. Just seems it's hard to get. Don't remember if I said, but when I asked at the local auto electrician they said they don't even have it. They use silicon spray there, and were low on that for some reason. I didn't get why because the spray is available everywhere. Probably a shipping hold up I guess. Happens a lot. So I'm just going to finish cleaning the NSS, drown it in silicon oil spray and slap it together for now. For some reason that little bastard took me hours to remove. It looked so easy too. The exhaust and transmission cooler lines made the work area a little tight. But it was that loving 12mm head adjuster bolt that got me. Holy poo poo. It felt so drat close to shearing when it was being undone. Took me a good half hour. No rust though. Didn't look crossthreaded. Just had a lot of white poo poo on it, and was surprisingly long. DogonCrook posted:
X2. A diagnostic vacuum gauge is incredibly useful. Saved me countless hours of diagnosis. Worth having in any toolkit.
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Nov 21, 2017 22:29
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah i was kinda sceptical its a blown ring because its not smoking, but unless there is a clog after the valve the pressure is coming from somewhere. It is smoking. I saw it coming from the left manifold-pipe connection. I hulked out tightening back on the nuts and now that slider flange isn't exactly straight, but that's another fix. I did spot a little smoke coming out of the dipstick tube. Speaking of manifolds, I assume you're talking about the intake manifold? I do have a vac tester somewhere...
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Nov 21, 2017 22:29
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If theres smoke in the exhaust its burning oil. 302's generally roach the rear two cylinders first but im not sure about an 88. Wherever your pcv dumps into the manifold are the cylinders that are most suspect. If those spark plugs are an oily mess that would probably tell you you the same. Its generally fouling causing excessive wear or carbon buildup lets go and it cant seal anymore.
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Nov 21, 2017 23:30
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DogonCrook posted:If theres smoke in the exhaust its burning oil. 302's generally roach the rear two cylinders first but im not sure about an 88. Wherever your pcv dumps into the manifold are the cylinders that are most suspect. If those spark plugs are an oily mess that would probably tell you you the same. Its generally fouling causing excessive wear or carbon buildup lets go and it cant seal anymore. That's very possible. However, I got a shitload more oil escaping out the seals than down the exhaust. The PCV on mine is above the 4th cylinder, one of the 2 rear cylinders. I'll have to check the plugs tomorrow. Also, I feel like an idiot. First I filled up the oil back to the proper level, then I put my vacuum pump on the intake manifold and ran it. It pulled 19 inches of vacuum with a needle wobble within an inch... but the oil leaked again, bad. After 10 minutes of it idling and me wondering what was wrong, I noticed that I left the oil cap off...  I put it back on, I pulled another inch of vacuum and my oil leak stopped. I let it idle for another 10 minutes to make sure. It did.So do I just need to replace all the vacuum lines? They're 29 years old. Most are hard vinyl with rubber ends. At first glance, they all looked OK.
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Nov 21, 2017 23:49
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In case I missed it, how bad is the leak now in quarts, rather than drops? Also you ran it with the oil cap off, how bad did the blow by look? If there was a good deal of air and oil mist coming out its a bad sign. There should be almost nothing.
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Nov 22, 2017 00:10
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kid sinister posted:That's very possible. However, I got a shitload more oil escaping out the seals than down the exhaust. The PCV on mine is above the 4th cylinder, one of the 2 rear cylinders. I'll have to check the plugs tomorrow. Well how it happens is the vapor and steam and crud is going into those two cylinders primarily and it throws the air fuel ratio off in those cylinders. Its also unregulated air so the engine just assumes that air will be there but if its water vapor or oil it doesnt burn you are actually pig rich because that took the place of your air. Over 150k miles the difference becomes more and more noticeable and they see more wear and carbon buildup, valves stop seating properly and it gets worse and it becomes a runaway problem. And lol ford didint fix this problem till 02 when they finally figured out the pcv intake needs to be in the middle of the manifold so it can feed all the cylinders not just 2. E: also a manifold or vac leak would have shown up although i would replace all that. It sounds intermittent and if you look fine on vac its probably gonna pass a leak down and compression test. So yeah maybe an intermittent vac leak. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 00:14
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2016 Mazda 3 w/ ~15500 miles Warning: I know jack all about cars. Short of it: Jiffy Lube blew up my engine (oil plug fell out on the interstate) on Nov. 9th. They finally owned up to it Friday and got me a rental. I got their appraisal today, and it mentions using parts different from the original manufacturer that are of the same quality (I'll get the actual quote and update this in the morning). My gut tells me two things: 1) they hosed my car so they should pay for a new engine, not some random used or salvaged from a wreck deal, and 2) this is probably gonna affect the resale value. How do I protect myself in this situation? Sidenote: A couple of my coworkers are gonna teach me how to change the oil myself once I get the car back, so I'm stoked about that.
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Nov 22, 2017 00:43
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1. You're probably going to need to involve a lawyer, depending on what they come back with 2. Only if you say anything
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Nov 22, 2017 00:52
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With 15k on it they better be putting in something new and not some unknown crap from the junkyard, gently caress. that.
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Nov 22, 2017 01:14
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I switched my 2004 Hyundai Accent to smaller wheels recently (no 14-inch wheels were available anywhere, so I'm down to all 13s), and at highway speeds it feels like my engine is working harder. I'm revving at ~3000 rpms while driving 70-80. Am I imagining this? The gearhead articles I get from google suggest that larger wheels make the engine work harder, but it's all sports car stuff and I might be misinterpreting it.
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Nov 22, 2017 01:16
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Unbelievably White posted:I switched my 2004 Hyundai Accent to smaller wheels recently (no 14-inch wheels were available anywhere, so I'm down to all 13s), and at highway speeds it feels like my engine is working harder. I'm revving at ~3000 rpms while driving 70-80. Am I imagining this? The gearhead articles I get from google suggest that larger wheels make the engine work harder, but it's all sports car stuff and I might be misinterpreting it. Smaller wheels require more revs to go the same speed, but do give you better acceleration and more torque on the ground. That's how tiny cars got away with tiny engines years ago - they felt fairly quick because they took off well and helped make up for the lack of engine power. They had lousy top speeds, though. Larger wheels make the engine work harder because the engine has to supply more torque to get good acceleration - so you have to step on it harder to get going. 13" wheels aren't necessarily smaller, however, if you went with higher profile tires. What matters is the circumference of the tire. High profiles on 13s may be about the same as lower profile on 14s. I don't know what you're used to, but 3000 rpm at 70 mph is pretty standard, by the way.
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Nov 22, 2017 01:22
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rdb posted:In case I missed it, how bad is the leak now in quarts, rather than drops? There were 2 very steady drips on the bottom of the plate. I didn't see any smoke coming out of the oil cap hole. The oil I spilled on the exhaust manifold while filling it up however... DogonCrook posted:Well how it happens is the vapor and steam and crud is going into those two cylinders primarily and it throws the air fuel ratio off in those cylinders. Its also unregulated air so the engine just assumes that air will be there but if its water vapor or oil it doesnt burn you are actually pig rich because that took the place of your air. Over 150k miles the difference becomes more and more noticeable and they see more wear and carbon buildup, valves stop seating properly and it gets worse and it becomes a runaway problem. Should I drive it around with a can of starter fluid, then check for intake leaks after driving for awhile? Retardog posted:Sidenote: A couple of my coworkers are gonna teach me how to change the oil myself once I get the car back, so I'm stoked about that. Good! Don't worry, it's super easy. You might want to spread out some cardboard beforehand for your first time though. Better yet, replace your drain plug with a Fumoto valve and make it even easier in the future.
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Nov 22, 2017 01:27
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Retardog posted:2016 Mazda 3 w/ ~15500 miles Google "diminution of value" and see if there's a statute on the books for it in your state/jurisdiction. Mention it to Jiffy Lube's adjuster anyway. If you get no traction, I second contacting a lawyer. Keep in mind that a case like this will not be on commission, lawyer will bill by the hour. Usually a scare letter's enough.
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Nov 22, 2017 01:43
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Deteriorata posted:Smaller wheels require more revs to go the same speed, but do give you better acceleration and more torque on the ground. That's how tiny cars got away with tiny engines years ago - they felt fairly quick because they took off well and helped make up for the lack of engine power. They had lousy top speeds, though. Thanks for the sub-5000 word breakdown! I guess feels it weird because it's steadily 3000 with no variation. This used to be a point where the transmission would shift, so I guess my overall top speed is lower now. Although, I'm probably kidding myself if I'm thinking about my car's top speed during holiday travel.
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Nov 22, 2017 02:37
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Little update on the Jeep NSS. I used silicon spray for now. Put it all back together, bench tested, wire brushed and copper anti siezed the 12mm head adjuster bolt (went in easily), picked a point roughly where the NSS was previously oriented and tested it. Seems to work fine and the reversing lights now work again! It'll be way easier to take out next time to put the grease in. I also marked on the NSS casing with a sharpie the locations of the gears in relation to one of the slits in the thread on the arm for the shaft clamping nut. Based off multimeter results when I was bench testing I mean. I'm going to say that silicon spray is no substitute for silicon grease. The contacts felt a little scrape-y when assembled. I'll be glad when the grease arrives.
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Nov 22, 2017 02:58
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Deteriorata posted:Well, just spitballing some ideas. Maybe a bad oil pan gasket? High enough up that it wouldn't leak while sitting still, but sloshing/splashing while driving the oil could get to it. Maybe the oil filter gasket? Expands enough when hot to let some oil through. Could be any number of gaskets/seals. Buy a bottle of that UV dye. You're chasing ghosts at this point, and this should at least narrow it down a bit.
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Nov 22, 2017 04:23
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Retardog posted:2016 Mazda 3 w/ ~15500 miles I’d be surprised if they managed to find an aftermarket engine for a car that new. At any rate, you don’t have a new engine, you have one with 15k miles. You’ll get one with the same or less miles. Post the parts they have on the estimate. The biggest thing is who does the work.
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Nov 22, 2017 04:37
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Recommendations on some kind of expanding foam tape for sealing the gap between a radiator and the radiator support? Half an inch or so thick will work
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Nov 22, 2017 04:43
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That's a significant gap. I'd use some kind of bushing instead. Edit: Or figure out why it doesn't fit properly.
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Nov 22, 2017 06:48
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