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EvilBeard posted:I like this Rhino. It has a large viewing area, which I love. https://www.amazon.com/RHINO-LARGE-...g=weldstarav-20 I have that same helmet and it works great for me. Nice to have the shade control as a big knob on the outside that you can change with gloves, instead of as a tiny fiddly trimpot inside like most other cheap helmets.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:24
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Mr. Mambold posted:To expand on the router method, you need specifically a router with a base rub collar (not the collet) attachment and a straight bit. You can make a jig from plywood scrap and you'll want to experiment on scraps. Typically for a straight 1/2" router bit the collar will have something like 3/32" clearance around it. So for 3 1/2" door butts (hinges) you'd have a height on the inside cut area of the jig of 3 11/16". Seeing as the jambs are already there, you'll need to tack on an offset to the jig to allow for the doorstops.
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Nov 24, 2017 19:42
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I've just freehanded the recess for the hinges and done fine, but I was damned careful about marking where the recesses needed to go, and I took the routing slow. Wouldn't want to do that if I had a lot of doors to do, though. This was just one door, so I didn't want to buy new tools for it or deal with making a template. Also: be certain you cut your recesses on the correct side of the door.
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Nov 24, 2017 19:54
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So it looks like I'm finally getting my own house! As such I won't be within spitting distance of a cache of tools and walking distance to my Dad's place to borrow his. Is there a checklist of tools I can refer to? I ask because I've got a mixture of new stuff (i.e. a complete set of drillbits), old stuff (a very incomplete arrangement of screws, ripsaws) and broken stuff (reciprocal sander). My birthday (and Christmas, of course) is coming up and I'd like to get the most value I can out of what I ask for. Right now my requirements are general DIY, with a desire to expand properly into woodwork at a later date (I've already got chisels, planes, mallets, scrapers, etc.). I'd rather not have a garage full of floor standing massive bits of kit I'll only get minor use out of.
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Nov 25, 2017 11:34
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Drill/driver, impact driver, circular saw. Invest in a battery system, preferably one that friends or family also have do you can share tools or batteries. I'm a Makita guy for 18V, and like the Milwaukee M12 for small stuff. Black Friday deals are usually a good way to get started. Ryobi is cheap, but surprisingly good if you're on a budget. Impact rated insert bits (I'm partial to the Makita gold bits). Set of drill bits including brad point, regular point, and masonry (a cheap Ski rollupl set is what I bought when I got my house, and we're still using it). A set of spade bits and hole saws can really come in handy. The blue adjustable speed harbour freight oscillating multitool is really good and quite cheap. Buy Bosch carbide blades for the OMT, they're the best by far. I use it all the time, especially for cutting outlet boxes in and doing trim modifications. Wood screws in various lengths and sizes. Sheet metal screws in various lengths and sizes. IMHO, it's worth spending the money on Spax or other high end screws, they just work really well. Don't use drywall screws except for drywall. A couple boxes of nails, brads, and the like. Bunch of tape measures. Those fuckers like to walk or hide. Framing square and a big T square are useful. Non contact voltage detector, linesman's pliers, wire strippers, selection of wire nuts. Good eye protection, good hearing protection, and a respirator. I prefer the low profile 3M respirators for dust and welding. They don't really make an organic vapor cartridge, so if you're doing a ton of oil based paint, stain, or polyurethane, get OV cartridges. Hand tools: channel locks, adjustable wrench (get the locking Stanley one if you only buy one), hammer, nail sets, chisels, screwdrivers, socket set and ratchet, good Allen keys or insert bits, couple of different prybars... I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot of stuff, but that's a start. Good luck!
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Nov 25, 2017 15:19
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Tested did a podcast episode where they discussed a beginner toolkit. Not sure everything on the list is completely necessary, but it's good for inspiration: http://www.tested.com/art/makers/454389-still-untitled-supplemental-adams-inexpensive-beginners-toolkit/
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Nov 25, 2017 15:24
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Levels of varying lengths. You can never be too level.
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Nov 25, 2017 15:39
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dyne posted:You can also simplify that a bit and just use a template bit with a top bearing instead of a straight bit and collar That won't work.
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Nov 25, 2017 15:43
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Excellent, I'll check both lists out. I have lots of DIY experience, but I've never really collected all the tools I've used together in one place (certainly not in any kind of inventory or checklist) and most of them are borrowed. A few things: should I just buy a multipack of screws? This Spax set seems to cover both sheet metal and wood: https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-pz-mixed-head-types-multihead-selection-screw-case-245-pcs/78062 What would I use the OMT for? I ask because I'm in the UK and my equivalent doesn't have cheap versions: https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/multi-tools/cat830708#category=cat830708 - I'm not doubting neccesarily, because I've found quite a few times over the last months that I'm just doing something wrong/inefficiently, but I'm not sure where it would fit in? A lot of the hand tools I've got are old - hardwood, steel (as opposed to triple ground cryogenic magic), etc. Have the improvements in modern tools made it worth it to buy in? (i.e. a £10 Stanley combination saw vs. vintage steel, with brass and wood)
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Nov 25, 2017 15:52
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Southern Heel posted:Excellent, I'll check both lists out. I have lots of DIY experience, but I've never really collected all the tools I've used together in one place (certainly not in any kind of inventory or checklist) and most of them are borrowed. I love it for stripped out screws and stuff. If you can get between the pieces of wood, you can get it with the OMT rather than having to hack at it with a saber saw.
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Nov 25, 2017 16:00
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sharkytm posted:Drill/driver, impact driver, circular saw. Invest in a battery system, preferably one that friends or family also have do you can share tools or batteries. I'm a Makita guy for 18V, and like the Milwaukee M12 for small stuff. Black Friday deals are usually a good way to get started. Ryobi is cheap, but surprisingly good if you're on a budget. This is an awesome list. It makes me feel a lot better about the tools I've started accumulating recently. It matches this list almost exactly (right down to the 18v Makitas  ) The only thing I'd add is clamps and a worktable/sawhorses. Clamps are so useful for everything.
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Nov 25, 2017 17:01
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Seconding the clamps. Clamps can provide a second set of "hands" and therefore let you do jobs that would ordinarily require a second person. Clamp a 2x4 to something anchored, clamp your workpiece to the 2x4, and you can get a lot done. Also seconding the spax screws. Don't waste your life swearing at lovely Phillips-head screws that are designed to strip out if you don't do everything exactly perfectly. Get a collection of star- or square-drive screws, and you can just torque those suckers down with your driver and split the wood in half long before you'll damage the screw itself.
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Nov 25, 2017 18:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:That won't work. Uh, why not? The only other difference in the set up would be you'd make a jig that's the same size as the hinge, rather than having to bother with compensating for the offset of the collar.
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Nov 25, 2017 20:06
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dyne posted:Uh, why not? The only other difference in the set up would be you'd make a jig that's the same size as the hinge, rather than having to bother with compensating for the offset of the collar. Top bearing bit can't down cut. You could use a collar type bearing between the shaft and cutterhead, same dimension as the cutterhead, if you could find one. Maybe that's what you meant? FYI to the OP, you also need to match up the hinge corners to the radius of the cutter.
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Nov 25, 2017 21:46
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Buy a good suspenders/belt thing. It’s awesome to have a set of poo poo ready to go and also not be walking around wondering where you put poo poo down. It doesn’t need to hold everything for every job, but you’ll be happy with on that holds a core set of poo poo that is useful on most jobs, and has a little bit of space/compartments whatever allocated to project-specific stuff. It’s probably situational like don’t get all SWAT’d out to measure one window or tighten a bolt but after doing longer projects I realized I was spending like 30% of my time just putting miles on rather than working.
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Nov 25, 2017 23:04
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Mr. Mambold posted:Top bearing bit can't down cut. You could use a collar type bearing between the shaft and cutterhead, same dimension as the cutterhead, if you could find one. Maybe that's what you meant? I think you might be confusing top and bottom bearings. Top bearing refers to the bearing above the cutter, between the cutter and shank. They're not uncommon. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Diamet...emplate+top+bit Ryobi includes one with their $25 hinge cutting jig. You only have to match the the bit radius with the hinge corner if you're going to have 90 degree corner on your template. If the template corners match the corners of the hinge you can use the same diameter bit or smaller.
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Nov 26, 2017 00:23
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dyne posted:I think you might be confusing top and bottom bearings. Top bearing refers to the bearing above the cutter, between the cutter and shank. They're not uncommon. Yeah, I think maybe you're right now that I think about it.
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Nov 26, 2017 02:14
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table saw chat: i'm not 100% i really need a table saw but I will be doing another room of pergo flooring soon and really hated using a jigsaw to rip the flooring and the planks are narrow enough that using a circular saw was terrible too. rigid R4516 compact table saw with a cheap rear end stand are only 200+20 tax bucks due to black friday dewalt DWE7480XA with cheap rear end stand are 329+33tax my personal inclination is to buy the bosch 4100 with nice gravity stand which runs 444 right now on acme tools any thoughts? i guess any savings would let me buy a bunch of accessories and fine-tooth blades edit: it's also a real shame sawstop models are so expensive, i'd pay a bit more for the safety but its almost 3x the price of the bosch. OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 16:44
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BraveUlysses posted:table saw chat: This stand is super well built and could probably take one of the small table saws if you built a platform to go on top of the rails. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Universal-Mobile-Miter-Saw-Stand-with-Mounting-Braces-AC9946/206992161 Sorry I don’t have any experience with the saws to weigh in.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:01
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BraveUlysses posted:table saw chat: Not to discourage you from your table saw dreams, but miter saws are a much better tool for doing stuff like flooring or trim. I guess if you're talking about ripping plywood for the subfloor, maybe, but a circular saw is usually easier than trying to feed sheet goods through a job site saw. That said, all these job site saws are almost identical with different paint jobs. About the only thing that varies is the fence locking mechanism, and that is one of the most important aspects. I personally don't think paying > $300 for one of these types of saws is worth it. They're not real table saws, and they're only useful for a handful of homeowner-type stuff beyond what a miter/circular setup can handle. If you get more into woodworking, you'll want to get a real table saw, and that extra $300 for the Bosch would be better spent on that.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:02
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B-Nasty posted:Not to discourage you from your table saw dreams, but miter saws are a much better tool for doing stuff like flooring or trim. I guess if you're talking about ripping plywood for the subfloor, maybe, but a circular saw is usually easier than trying to feed sheet goods through a job site saw. Near the edges of the floor you end up having to rip boards to width. Definitely need something other then a miter saw to do that.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:28
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B-Nasty posted:Not to discourage you from your table saw dreams, but miter saws are a much better tool for doing stuff like flooring or trim. I guess if you're talking about ripping plywood for the subfloor, maybe, but a circular saw is usually easier than trying to feed sheet goods through a job site saw. oh yeah i already have a 10in single bevel miter saw and it definitely did most of the work when i did the flooring in the other rooms and i would probably continue to use it for this job too
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Nov 26, 2017 17:33
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B-Nasty posted:Not to discourage you from your table saw dreams, but miter saws are a much better tool for doing stuff like flooring or trim. I guess if you're talking about ripping plywood for the subfloor, maybe, but a circular saw is usually easier than trying to feed sheet goods through a job site saw. I will forever be the voice of dissent on this forum by saying that the average person absolutely will do just fine with a small contractor/jobsite table saw, even if they dabble with some woodworking at some point. I get there's a type of hobbyist who just likes having the best of everything, and that's a totally valid way to do things, but having used a dewalt jobsite saw for like 8 years now, the only downside I've ever come across is the small range of the fence. But then, that's why god built circular saws. Otherwise, it's legitimately been a pleasure to use for an incredible array of DIY projects around the house, and some light woodworking. Flooring, siding (t11 and cement board), paneling, trim, dozens of odds and ends jobs, etc. Fence holds tight and square, motor makes it's way through anything I throw at it without any argument.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:45
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Slugworth posted:I will forever be the voice of dissent on this forum by saying that the average person absolutely will do just fine with a small contractor/jobsite table saw, even if they dabble with some woodworking at some point. I completely agree. I think my point was poorly communicated, in that I think these job site saws are all most homeowner DIY jobs will require. I just think paying for the 'deluxe' model is a waste of money, since they are all fairly similar in quality. If you find yourself needing high levels of fence quality or a better quality table (e.g. hardcore woodworking), you'd be better off investing in a full cabinet table saw.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:57
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So the ridgid is winning based on price but i'm still curious if the dewalt rack and pinion style of fence adjustment is really worth the extra 140 bucks. the ridgid looks like it has a better miter gauge than the DW too. DW won't take a dado either.
OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 18:02
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B-Nasty posted:I completely agree. I think my point was poorly communicated, in that I think these job site saws are all most homeowner DIY jobs will require. I just think paying for the 'deluxe' model is a waste of money, since they are all fairly similar in quality. If you find yourself needing high levels of fence quality or a better quality table (e.g. hardcore woodworking), you'd be better off investing in a full cabinet table saw.
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Nov 26, 2017 18:24
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Everyone I’ve talked to really likes the dewalt style fence. The newest skil and hitachi jobsite saws have copied it too.
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Nov 26, 2017 19:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Seconding the clamps. Clamps can provide a second set of "hands" and therefore let you do jobs that would ordinarily require a second person. Clamp a 2x4 to something anchored, clamp your workpiece to the 2x4, and you can get a lot done. Thirding clamps. You can never have too many clamps. A friend of mine got me a pair of Dewalt Trigger Clamps and I absolutely love them. They're light duty tools but they're quick to apply, quick to release, and they don't mar the surface of what you're clamping, so they're really, really nice for when you just need something small to hold still for a bit. For heavier duty stuff I greatly prefer F-clamps to C-clamps. I have a few of both and I never reach for my C-clamps until I'm out of F-clamps to apply to a project. (also agreeing on gently caress PHILLIPS SCREWS, even if Spax wind up costing you a little extra you'll save money due to the fact that you won't have 40% of your screws stripping. Especially if you're using a drill/driver instead of an impact driver, I swear I've had projects where I stripped more screws than I actually put into the wood) A question of my own! Can anyone recommend me some good hearing protection ear muffs with bluetooth speakers and ambient sound amplification? I know there are bluetooth headphone ear muffs, and I know there are ear muffs that will amplify noises around you (up to a limit, so it's not making your drat tools even louder, but makes it so you can hear people trying to talk to you) but I don't know of any that do both and I'd love to get some. Magres fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 23:47
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Magres posted:Thirding clamps. You can never have too many clamps. A friend of mine got me a pair of Dewalt Trigger Clamps and I absolutely love them. They're light duty tools but they're quick to apply, quick to release, and they don't mar the surface of what you're clamping, so they're really, really nice for when you just need something small to hold still for a bit. Peltor TACTICAL are the ones I know of, there is a 100, 300, 500. It’s what all the cool kids shoot with. Their 500 model is a Bluetooth headset. I haven’t used the 500s so I’m not positive how the amplification works with or instead of the Bluetooth functionality. I have the 300 and they are great for talking at the range, the amplifier function works well and shuts off for the shooting. I have some Apple EarPods that I wear under them for working around the house where I want war protection and podcasts, they’re small enough that they fit basically under the earmuffs, especially if you buy the gel ear pads (buy the gel ear pads). So to reiterate, I bet the 500 will work for you, but don’t know how the amplification and Bluetooth interact. I also don’t know if the filter out all sound above a threshold, or if there is a temporal part (time gating optimized for gunshots). No matter which you go for, get the gel ear pads, they’re worth it. I lend my 300s with the gel out when I bring someone shooting and I wear the 100s with stock ear pads and they kind of blow, so the friendo gets the good ones. If you do decide to go with something like EarPods or some other Bluetooth earbuds, chances are you can get some cheap earmuffs to go over them. I went with these specifically because I wanted them to be multipurpose: shooting classes where I want to hear the instructor, and also mowing and blowing the lawn, and i guess if I didn’t have the EarPods I might have gotten the 500s.
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Nov 27, 2017 04:11
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Can someone with makita tools do me a favor and measure the voltage of the thermistor terminal on your battery? I have a bare makita impact driver i want to try and power with a non makita battery and it only gives a sort of half hearted turn with just the 18v + and - wires connected, and the thermistor disconnected. I'm hoping it's just because that's disconnected and not due to the battery communication makita claims to have
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Nov 28, 2017 04:30
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Battery 1: 20.15v, 19.54v thermistor to ground, 0.595 thermistor to +. Battery 2: 17.56v, 16.98v thermistor to ground, 0.573 thermistor to +. Both batteries are around 70~72 degrees F. Looks like you might be able to get away with a 0.6v diode from the battery positive terminal to the thermistor terminal. FWIW the batteries themselves work just fine with anything you plug into the power terminals, no third pin required -- I've used them to power lots of different things. I have not tried to power a Makita tool with a non-Makita battery, though. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 05:06
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So just to re-highlight : Are new hand tools better than old hand tools? I ask because there are many markets, stalls, ebay, etc. which sell "vintage" hand tools that just need a bit of TLC - but obviously I don't know how they would compare to modern equivalents. I know I'd much rather have a saw with a hardwood handle, brass pins and an engraved blade - but if it also requires sharpening with specialist tools every other time I use it, I'm not sure that would be a benefit.
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Nov 28, 2017 09:52
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Southern Heel posted:So just to re-highlight : Are new hand tools better than old hand tools? I ask because there are many markets, stalls, ebay, etc. which sell "vintage" hand tools that just need a bit of TLC - but obviously I don't know how they would compare to modern equivalents. I know I'd much rather have a saw with a hardwood handle, brass pins and an engraved blade - but if it also requires sharpening with specialist tools every other time I use it, I'm not sure that would be a benefit. Quality tools are better than lovely tools. There are vintage pieces of poo poo just like modern pieces of poo poo. If it doesn't have a manufacturer on it that either: still makes (quality) tools, or has a lot written about how quality their tools are, I'd give it a pass. I wouldn't buy anything that needs any sort of replacement part at all(i.e. saw handle), unless you're willing and able to craft said replacement yourself. You could be looking at the 19xx's Harbor Freight!
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Nov 28, 2017 10:21
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Sagebrush posted:Battery 1: 20.15v, 19.54v thermistor to ground, 0.595 thermistor to +.
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Nov 28, 2017 13:04
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Southern Heel posted:So just to re-highlight : Are new hand tools better than old hand tools? I ask because there are many markets, stalls, ebay, etc. which sell "vintage" hand tools that just need a bit of TLC - but obviously I don't know how they would compare to modern equivalents. I know I'd much rather have a saw with a hardwood handle, brass pins and an engraved blade - but if it also requires sharpening with specialist tools every other time I use it, I'm not sure that would be a benefit. When I was building up hand tools a couple years ago I found the newer lines like Milwaukee and Dewalt offered some genuinely better features than older lines like, say, channel lock. Fastback razor blade/knife, adjustable reaming pliers etc.
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Nov 29, 2017 03:07
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uwaeve posted:Peltor TACTICAL are the ones I know of, there is a 100, 300, 500. It’s what all the cool kids shoot with. Their 500 model is a Bluetooth headset. I haven’t used the 500s so I’m not positive how the amplification works with or instead of the Bluetooth functionality. I have the 300 and they are great for talking at the range, the amplifier function works well and shuts off for the shooting. I have some Apple EarPods that I wear under them for working around the house where I want war protection and podcasts, they’re small enough that they fit basically under the earmuffs, especially if you buy the gel ear pads (buy the gel ear pads). Do you find that the Peltors work the way you want with tool noise? The ones I've used amplify all noise, not just speech, so you have to turn them off and use them as dumb earpro when working.
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Nov 29, 2017 03:13
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~Coxy posted:Do you find that the Peltors work the way you want with tool noise? You know I’ve never tried to see if they limit based only on amplitude, I generally keep them off for yard work. I’ll have to test it. Nope doesn’t work for poo poo. Level bounces around but it’s mainly the sharp noises it attenuates for. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 18:05
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My building's maintenance guy knows another building's maintenance that is selling one of their snow brushes. Here is the brush in question: It appears to be (and is said to be by my maintenance guy) this one: https://www.tylertool.com/ariens-92...loaAjSBEALw_wcB They are looking to sell it for $250. It looks to retail for $2000+ new. I would be getting this for my home. I have two large driveways in an area that gets a lot of snow (New England.) I don't need the driveways to be swept to the last granule of snow, per se. My concern is that this wouldn't be able to handle a 12" snowfall (that I wouldn't be able to get to until I got home from work, or woke up, say.) Do I jump on this? eta: It's in perfect running condition, reportedly.
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Nov 30, 2017 00:35
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:My building's maintenance guy knows another building's maintenance that is selling one of their snow brushes. Here is the brush in question: Having zero experience with those things, I live in New England as well and can’t imagine that thing doing anything to 6” or more of anything but the driest, powderiest snow. Furthermore, even with dry powdery snow you are gonna get the plow cement at the end of your driveways, which I assume that thing will simply burnish into a nice quarter pipe. Do you already have a snowblower and the room for a supplemental thing like that? It seems like it’d be nice for exactly what you don’t care about : getting every last granule of snow off of walkways, patios, sidewalks, etc.
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Nov 30, 2017 02:12
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uwaeve posted:You know I’ve never tried to see if they limit based only on amplitude, I generally keep them off for yard work. I’ll have to test it. Yeah, I just wear earbuds under a pair of high-NRR earpro (either a dumb one, or a shooting one turned off.) But I can see the idea behind having a pair for tool use that would work off speech frequencies only. If it was Bluetooth, it could even pause your audio when someone started talking to you.
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Nov 30, 2017 03:19
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