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Oh man, ironing in Cura3. Such a simple idea, and such incredible results.
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# ? Nov 23, 2017 23:42 |
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# ? May 8, 2024 09:47 |
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For some reason, pressing the connect -> disconnect —> connect buttons in quick succession works when it’s having problems connecting as well.
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# ? Nov 23, 2017 23:44 |
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BMan posted:For any Prusa owners who haven't seen the announcement yet, they released new firmware with linear advance. Also the slic3r presets have slightly faster default speed. I've been playing with the linear advance for a week now, after seeing somebody post on r/3dprinting about it. While it just came to Prusa and its slic3r, it's been an option on Marlin for a couple months now. This seems like a really important tweak. Its goal is an optimization of the issue that I think is very frustrating: nozzle pressure. This article does a good job explaining what it does, and its benefits: Lower retraction distance necessary No wipe or coast needed Seams not as visible Sharper corners resulting in greater dimensional accuracy No over extrusion at the edges of solid infill Much faster print speeds are possible with no negative effect on quality And this link generates a script that is great for helping you calibrate your linear advance setting. I was previously printing with a base speed of 30-40mm/s. I am now aiming for 80mm/s. (I have been able to successfully print cubes at 120mm/s, but I'm not expecting that to become my norm.) The corners of my diagnostic cubes are so much better now. I also finally got around to tightening my X and Y belts, which has now eliminated ghosting. This is good timing, because I plan to do all my Christmas gifting through my 3D printing. Now I just need to get overhangs and supports working, and I'll be golden.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 04:00 |
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Hey guys, I need a little guidance on my first layer It seems to lay down a nice line and then tear it up on the next parallel pass, ruining any adhesion. My suspicion is that my bed is warped to heck as this issue started after a 3 day print, but some input from the hive Mind would be appreciated. This is as far as I could be bothered to go through a bed level test. Edit: I recently also upped my extrusion multiplayer, could the extra material be pushing the fresh lines off? Jestery fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Nov 24, 2017 |
# ? Nov 24, 2017 12:42 |
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Kinda weird question - so I've been using KISS Slicer for 5 years or something and never really had a complaint but yesterday I seem to have lost the hard drive with the config settings on it. After an annoying half hour of realizing that the defaults didn't work well at all, I went and got Cura and had it work honestly pretty darn well. Is there anything else I should try before I spend the time tweaking everything to where it was, quality-wise?
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 19:35 |
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prusaslic3r best slicer
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 19:37 |
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My impression is that prusaslic3r has the best pure results. Its interface is the weakest of the three, but it has come a long way over the last year. Simplify3D excels with some great features, but Cura and slic3r are catching up, and its price tag has suddenly become really difficult to justify. Cura also has some great features, like ironing, but every time I see somebody ask "why is my slicer loving up?", it's Cura. But I wouldn't want that to scare you off from using Cura, as for all I know it may not be what is at fault when those issues come up. It's just something I've noticed.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 20:22 |
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Cura was doing weird poo poo like laying down a raft (look, I'm used to rafts, OK?) and then running over it with zero Z offset from the last layer and tearing it up. Probably a setting I didn't configure right but... weird. I'll see what Prusa Slic3r does as far as results. Either of them have a better UI than KISS Slicer, though I'd always been happy with its results.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 21:10 |
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I finished a spool of filament for the first time.. and now I have no ABS. Perhaps I should have planned ahead
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 21:42 |
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That is good, it means you won't have to print with ABS.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 21:49 |
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You shut your whore mouth! I'm kidding I only print in ABS but I agree that it's a pain in the dick. I have it set up now so that I can just kind of "set and forget" for prints, but it took a long time to get there. "Set and forget" for ABS is neither of those things, but I have it to a science. It includes: Orient or change model to be ABS-appropriate (break lines, reinforcement for thin parts with long straights -- you need "angles" or reinforcement bars to prevent warping) Scrape PEI bed, apply a thin layer of purple glue stick to problem areas because I have a few low spots in the bed. Either print in the hot garage to keep warping down, or slide my DIY cover over the printer to keep the heat in. Re-check nozzle tightness, and re-calibrate print height, every 20-30 hours or so of printing. On my Rostock Max V2.5, that involves doing the HE280 calibration twice (make sure you installed ferrite beads on the sense wires or you're hosed!), then adding (for me) 0.14mm of Z height because it always smushes down too low.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 21:57 |
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duffmensch posted:For some reason, pressing the connect -> disconnect —> connect buttons in quick succession works when it’s having problems connecting as well. And some day I might even figure out what's up with that So far it's an issue that only happens to other people, I've never been able to reproduce it myself
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 23:07 |
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I have no idea what type of info might be helpful to you in fixing it, but let me know if there's anything I can send your way to help with it.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 23:27 |
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Revol posted:My impression is that prusaslic3r has the best pure results. Its interface is the weakest of the three, but it has come a long way over the last year. For what it's worth, I've been using Cura almost exclusively since I got my own printer back in February, and I've never run into a problem that wasn't either (a) my own dumb fault or (b) caused by a poorly crafted STL file. I've tried all the other slicers and keep coming back to Cura... mostly because it's what I'm comfortable with, and I can't be arsed to dial in all the options in new software, but also because it's always worked perfectly fine for me.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 00:53 |
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Bought a TEVO Tornado. Found a coupon to get the kit down to 329, can't beat that. Plus it's like 95% assembled. Bit more complex than the monoprice maker select but holy poo poo a 300x300x400 print size.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 01:42 |
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Is it just me, or are there absolutely no filament deals on Amazon for Black Friday? I'm sitting on $75 worth of gift cards that I wanted to throw at materials, and I haven't found jack poo poo.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 03:41 |
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Filament is mostly a commodity at this point. I can’t imagine the margins after shipping are super huge to expect a discount on a fake holiday.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 03:57 |
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A boy can dream.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 04:14 |
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Take a pilgrimage to Microcenter. $14 PLA and $18 PETG all day every day.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 04:18 |
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WYZ actually went up in price
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 04:21 |
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eddiewalker posted:Take a pilgrimage to Microcenter. $14 PLA and $18 PETG all day every day. None around here, unfortunately, closest one is 250 miles away. I'd LOVE to have one too, because I'm almost 100% eSun PLA/PLA+ most of the time, and their Inland is re-branded eSun. (e): Which I just looked for on Amazon (never even thought to check before) and their standard PLA is 15 bucks Prime. That'll work! Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Nov 25, 2017 |
# ? Nov 25, 2017 04:32 |
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Microcenter were selling a win10 tablet today for $15 that would be perfect as a midi host for my retro pc project. Alas I live in Canada and we don't get nice things
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 05:10 |
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I bought a CR-10 for my wife/son to print christmas ornaments on. Fired it up tonight and was pleasantly surprised at the overall ease of assembly and quality. Unlike others, the glass bed was fine. I'm tempted to buy a CR-10s now. Using Hatchbox's PLA due to being lazy and Amazon prime.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 05:14 |
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I was able to get slic3r working again, so now I've got that and S3D as slicer options. Quality looks slightly better on the S3D print. Spent all day trying to get Cura working, but it's a real struggle. Right now it's doing this really loving stupid thing where right before it begins printing even the skirt, it does a really loud and really long retraction. I think it's 'Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance', which was at a default of 20mm, which makes no sense, as it says this is supposed to be equivilant of your heat zone. Well, okay, I tried 2mm. It seems to retract, but it fails to prime it back. It misses the entire skirt and the perimeters of the first layer, and doesn't begin to actually extrude until it begins the infill. I just set this option to 0, and it's still doing it. This initial retraction sounds like it is harming my extruder, or motor, or something; it sounds super bad.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 06:58 |
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Sagebrush posted:Try 250000 if it's running Marlin. I believe that's the default rate. Thanks! That did the trick. Too bad that the 'upload to SD card' function is mostly useless. I also wish that you could completely disable the webcam function, rather than it attempting to connect to the camera everytime you go to the control page.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 07:01 |
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Thanks! That did the trick. Too bad that the 'upload to SD card' function is mostly useless. I also wish that you could completely disable the webcam function, rather than it attempting to connect to the camera everytime you go to the control page. You might need to update Current version definitely tells you how to switch off webcam integration when it can't load it and you are logged in as admin. Just unset the stream URL in the settings. Same for snapshot (to disable timelapse support). Agreed on the SD transfer. Sadly nothing to be done about this, technical limitations.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 09:29 |
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foosel posted:You might need to update Current version definitely tells you how to switch off webcam integration when it can't load it and you are logged in as admin. Just unset the stream URL in the settings. Same for snapshot (to disable timelapse support). I just want to really thank you for Octoprint. It's made my printer a hundred time easier and less stressful to use. The fact that you're here answering questions is the icing on the cake. I support you on Patreon, and hope other goons do too.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 15:27 |
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One thing I keep meaning to implement in some firmware and Octoprint is a compressed upload feature. Gcode is mostly empty space / repetitive stuff, that’s why Repetier’s binary format works so well. I want to have a way to upload gcode in a compressed fashion so that upload to SD doesn’t take years. Maybe it won’t help, maybe the Arduino doesn’t have enough horsepower to decompress anything meaningful, but it seems worth a shot, eventually.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 17:58 |
tuyop posted:My prints are looking kind of rotten (and my hands are super dry, whoa). I thought I'd cleared it up with a bunch of cold pulls but it seems to have returned. Nobody has any ideas?
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 18:17 |
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I’ve had prints like that with a partial clog. Extruder nozzles don’t last forever, I’d swap it for a new one if you haven’t already.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 19:39 |
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Amazon has a lot of Saturday November 25th filament sales but they're going fast. Nerys did a video and linked most of them in the description: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rds7pSFaR0E I just got 10 rolls of different colors (most PLA but a couple ABS) for about $120.
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# ? Nov 25, 2017 20:42 |
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Rexxed posted:Amazon has a lot of Saturday November 25th filament sales but they're going fast. Nerys did a video and linked most of them in the description: In the same vein makergeeks is having a 30% off sale, which brings an order of 4x 1lb grab bag rolls to only $42 shipped. Word of caution: I've heard lots of horror stories on reddit about late/missing orders, but with that said I've ordered 4/5 times from them now and always gotten my stuff in under 4 days.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 00:30 |
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sharkytm posted:Congrats. That's a very well supported and documented printer. It'll serve you well until you outgrow it, and if you've got the room, you can keep them both! I just finished running some prototype parts that took 20+hours on my Ultimate.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 01:01 |
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Someone has got to have posted settings that will work, running into the end of the axis is bad for the steppers and gears/belts.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 01:49 |
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Yeah no kidding. Fortunately there are settings on Monoprice's website, way at the bottom of the product description. Didn't realize they were there since I ordered off amazon. After the cat finishes I'm going to try the little arduino box again. Should be easy since it's just two thin pieces of plastic with holes for screws and standoffs, and a big hole for a gshield's cooling fan. edit: right after posting that the extruder ran through some infill and popped the headless cat off the build area. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Nov 26, 2017 |
# ? Nov 26, 2017 02:34 |
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I got Cura working. The issue was with it using absolute gcode. Adding G92 E0 to my starting script got it working; that sets the extruder to zero. And boy, the ironing feature sure is nifty. I can kinda see through it to the infill; I wonder if adding more solid layers would prevent that. The one problem with it is that there is an issue with the test prints from all three slicers that not even ironing hides. From left to right is Simplify3D, Cura, and slic3r. On the Cura block, you'll see vertical scars at the top left and bottom right of the Z. The other two have it as well, with slic3r being the worst.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 07:29 |
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Revol posted:...I can kinda see through it to the infill; I wonder if adding more solid layers would prevent that. I've found that for me, 4 top layers seems to do a nice job of evening out large flat areas. I'm sure that's also dependent on material, temperature, infill density, and probably 16 other variables too, but 4 seems to work well with PLA and PETG so far. YMMV, etc.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 17:25 |
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Prusa Slic3r has 5 solid bottom layers and 6 solid top. It seems like a lot but prints tend to come out pretty darn good.
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 19:30 |
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Well I got the cat print to work and after a few bad starts with the first layer not sticking got part of my arduino box done. After the bottom is done I think I'm going to work up a better spool holder that uses some spare skateboard bearings. I'm going to have to remember to track down my feeler gauges as they would have made it way easier to level the thing. Must have left them in a weird spot again.
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# ? Nov 27, 2017 00:01 |
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# ? May 8, 2024 09:47 |
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Well, looks like I won't be printing for a while, as it appears I have another project on my hands. gently caress.
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# ? Nov 27, 2017 02:08 |