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AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Oh man, ironing in Cura3. Such a simple idea, and such incredible results.

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duffmensch
Feb 20, 2004

Duffman is thrusting in the direction of the problem!
For some reason, pressing the connect -> disconnect —> connect buttons in quick succession works when it’s having problems connecting as well.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...

BMan posted:

For any Prusa owners who haven't seen the announcement yet, they released new firmware with linear advance. Also the slic3r presets have slightly faster default speed.

I've been playing with the linear advance for a week now, after seeing somebody post on r/3dprinting about it. While it just came to Prusa and its slic3r, it's been an option on Marlin for a couple months now. This seems like a really important tweak. Its goal is an optimization of the issue that I think is very frustrating: nozzle pressure. This article does a good job explaining what it does, and its benefits:

Lower retraction distance necessary
No wipe or coast needed
Seams not as visible
Sharper corners resulting in greater dimensional accuracy
No over extrusion at the edges of solid infill
Much faster print speeds are possible with no negative effect on quality

And this link generates a script that is great for helping you calibrate your linear advance setting.

I was previously printing with a base speed of 30-40mm/s. I am now aiming for 80mm/s. (I have been able to successfully print cubes at 120mm/s, but I'm not expecting that to become my norm.) The corners of my diagnostic cubes are so much better now. I also finally got around to tightening my X and Y belts, which has now eliminated ghosting. This is good timing, because I plan to do all my Christmas gifting through my 3D printing.

Now I just need to get overhangs and supports working, and I'll be golden.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
Hey guys, I need a little guidance on my first layer

It seems to lay down a nice line and then tear it up on the next parallel pass, ruining any adhesion.

My suspicion is that my bed is warped to heck as this issue started after a 3 day print, but some input from the hive Mind would be appreciated.


This is as far as I could be bothered to go through a bed level test.



Edit: I recently also upped my extrusion multiplayer, could the extra material be pushing the fresh lines off?

Jestery fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Nov 24, 2017

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Kinda weird question - so I've been using KISS Slicer for 5 years or something and never really had a complaint but yesterday I seem to have lost the hard drive with the config settings on it. After an annoying half hour of realizing that the defaults didn't work well at all, I went and got Cura and had it work honestly pretty darn well. Is there anything else I should try before I spend the time tweaking everything to where it was, quality-wise?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

prusaslic3r best slicer

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
My impression is that prusaslic3r has the best pure results. Its interface is the weakest of the three, but it has come a long way over the last year.

Simplify3D excels with some great features, but Cura and slic3r are catching up, and its price tag has suddenly become really difficult to justify.

Cura also has some great features, like ironing, but every time I see somebody ask "why is my slicer loving up?", it's Cura. But I wouldn't want that to scare you off from using Cura, as for all I know it may not be what is at fault when those issues come up. It's just something I've noticed.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Cura was doing weird poo poo like laying down a raft (look, I'm used to rafts, OK?) and then running over it with zero Z offset from the last layer and tearing it up. Probably a setting I didn't configure right but... weird. I'll see what Prusa Slic3r does as far as results. Either of them have a better UI than KISS Slicer, though I'd always been happy with its results.

mewse
May 2, 2006

I finished a spool of filament for the first time.. and now I have no ABS. Perhaps I should have planned ahead

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


That is good, it means you won't have to print with ABS.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
You shut your whore mouth!

I'm kidding I only print in ABS but I agree that it's a pain in the dick. I have it set up now so that I can just kind of "set and forget" for prints, but it took a long time to get there.

"Set and forget" for ABS is neither of those things, but I have it to a science. It includes:

Orient or change model to be ABS-appropriate (break lines, reinforcement for thin parts with long straights -- you need "angles" or reinforcement bars to prevent warping)

Scrape PEI bed, apply a thin layer of purple glue stick to problem areas because I have a few low spots in the bed.

Either print in the hot garage to keep warping down, or slide my DIY cover over the printer to keep the heat in.

Re-check nozzle tightness, and re-calibrate print height, every 20-30 hours or so of printing. On my Rostock Max V2.5, that involves doing the HE280 calibration twice (make sure you installed ferrite beads on the sense wires or you're hosed!), then adding (for me) 0.14mm of Z height because it always smushes down too low.

foosel
Apr 2, 2010

duffmensch posted:

For some reason, pressing the connect -> disconnect —> connect buttons in quick succession works when it’s having problems connecting as well.

And some day I might even figure out what's up with that :argh: So far it's an issue that only happens to other people, I've never been able to reproduce it myself :shrug:

duffmensch
Feb 20, 2004

Duffman is thrusting in the direction of the problem!
I have no idea what type of info might be helpful to you in fixing it, but let me know if there's anything I can send your way to help with it.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Revol posted:

My impression is that prusaslic3r has the best pure results. Its interface is the weakest of the three, but it has come a long way over the last year.

Simplify3D excels with some great features, but Cura and slic3r are catching up, and its price tag has suddenly become really difficult to justify.

Cura also has some great features, like ironing, but every time I see somebody ask "why is my slicer loving up?", it's Cura. But I wouldn't want that to scare you off from using Cura, as for all I know it may not be what is at fault when those issues come up. It's just something I've noticed.

For what it's worth, I've been using Cura almost exclusively since I got my own printer back in February, and I've never run into a problem that wasn't either (a) my own dumb fault or (b) caused by a poorly crafted STL file. I've tried all the other slicers and keep coming back to Cura... mostly because it's what I'm comfortable with, and I can't be arsed to dial in all the options in new software, but also because it's always worked perfectly fine for me.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Bought a TEVO Tornado.

Found a coupon to get the kit down to 329, can't beat that.

Plus it's like 95% assembled. Bit more complex than the monoprice maker select but holy poo poo a 300x300x400 print size.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Is it just me, or are there absolutely no filament deals on Amazon for Black Friday? I'm sitting on $75 worth of gift cards that I wanted to throw at materials, and I haven't found jack poo poo.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Filament is mostly a commodity at this point. I can’t imagine the margins after shipping are super huge to expect a discount on a fake holiday.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

A boy can dream. :sigh:

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Take a pilgrimage to Microcenter. $14 PLA and $18 PETG all day every day.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
WYZ actually went up in price :(

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

eddiewalker posted:

Take a pilgrimage to Microcenter. $14 PLA and $18 PETG all day every day.

None around here, unfortunately, closest one is 250 miles away. :( I'd LOVE to have one too, because I'm almost 100% eSun PLA/PLA+ most of the time, and their Inland is re-branded eSun.

(e): Which I just looked for on Amazon (never even thought to check before) and their standard PLA is 15 bucks Prime. That'll work!

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Nov 25, 2017

mewse
May 2, 2006

Microcenter were selling a win10 tablet today for $15 that would be perfect as a midi host for my retro pc project. Alas I live in Canada and we don't get nice things

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I bought a CR-10 for my wife/son to print christmas ornaments on. Fired it up tonight and was pleasantly surprised at the overall ease of assembly and quality. Unlike others, the glass bed was fine. I'm tempted to buy a CR-10s now. Using Hatchbox's PLA due to being lazy and Amazon prime.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
I was able to get slic3r working again, so now I've got that and S3D as slicer options. Quality looks slightly better on the S3D print.

Spent all day trying to get Cura working, but it's a real struggle. Right now it's doing this really loving stupid thing where right before it begins printing even the skirt, it does a really loud and really long retraction. I think it's 'Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance', which was at a default of 20mm, which makes no sense, as it says this is supposed to be equivilant of your heat zone. Well, okay, I tried 2mm. It seems to retract, but it fails to prime it back. It misses the entire skirt and the perimeters of the first layer, and doesn't begin to actually extrude until it begins the infill. I just set this option to 0, and it's still doing it. This initial retraction sounds like it is harming my extruder, or motor, or something; it sounds super bad.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Sagebrush posted:

Try 250000 if it's running Marlin. I believe that's the default rate.

Thanks! That did the trick. Too bad that the 'upload to SD card' function is mostly useless. I also wish that you could completely disable the webcam function, rather than it attempting to connect to the camera everytime you go to the control page.

foosel
Apr 2, 2010

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Thanks! That did the trick. Too bad that the 'upload to SD card' function is mostly useless. I also wish that you could completely disable the webcam function, rather than it attempting to connect to the camera everytime you go to the control page.

You might need to update ;) Current version definitely tells you how to switch off webcam integration when it can't load it and you are logged in as admin. Just unset the stream URL in the settings. Same for snapshot (to disable timelapse support).

Agreed on the SD transfer. Sadly nothing to be done about this, technical limitations.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

foosel posted:

You might need to update ;) Current version definitely tells you how to switch off webcam integration when it can't load it and you are logged in as admin. Just unset the stream URL in the settings. Same for snapshot (to disable timelapse support).

Agreed on the SD transfer. Sadly nothing to be done about this, technical limitations.

I just want to really thank you for Octoprint. It's made my printer a hundred time easier and less stressful to use. The fact that you're here answering questions is the icing on the cake. I support you on Patreon, and hope other goons do too.

Dessert Rose
May 17, 2004

awoken in control of a lucid deep dream...
One thing I keep meaning to implement in some firmware and Octoprint is a compressed upload feature. Gcode is mostly empty space / repetitive stuff, that’s why Repetier’s binary format works so well. I want to have a way to upload gcode in a compressed fashion so that upload to SD doesn’t take years.

Maybe it won’t help, maybe the Arduino doesn’t have enough horsepower to decompress anything meaningful, but it seems worth a shot, eventually.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

tuyop posted:

My prints are looking kind of rotten (and my hands are super dry, whoa). I thought I'd cleared it up with a bunch of cold pulls but it seems to have returned.



I have an extra e3d extruder. Is it time to dismantle this one to see if it's the PTFE tube or something and swap in a new part?

Nobody has any ideas?

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
I’ve had prints like that with a partial clog. Extruder nozzles don’t last forever, I’d swap it for a new one if you haven’t already.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Amazon has a lot of Saturday November 25th filament sales but they're going fast. Nerys did a video and linked most of them in the description:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rds7pSFaR0E

I just got 10 rolls of different colors (most PLA but a couple ABS) for about $120.

Full Circle
Feb 20, 2008

Rexxed posted:

Amazon has a lot of Saturday November 25th filament sales but they're going fast. Nerys did a video and linked most of them in the description:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rds7pSFaR0E

I just got 10 rolls of different colors (most PLA but a couple ABS) for about $120.

In the same vein makergeeks is having a 30% off sale, which brings an order of 4x 1lb grab bag rolls to only $42 shipped.

Word of caution: I've heard lots of horror stories on reddit about late/missing orders, but with that said I've ordered 4/5 times from them now and always gotten my stuff in under 4 days.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr

sharkytm posted:

Congrats. That's a very well supported and documented printer. It'll serve you well until you outgrow it, and if you've got the room, you can keep them both! I just finished running some prototype parts that took 20+hours on my Ultimate.
Thanks! Right now it's printing the cat test file while I figure out why a quick Cura slice of an arduino enclosure I modeled made the thing ram into the far side of the X axis. Probably just where it puts the zero point since I'm having to use a custom setup since no built in profiles were available.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Someone has got to have posted settings that will work, running into the end of the axis is bad for the steppers and gears/belts.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
Yeah no kidding. Fortunately there are settings on Monoprice's website, way at the bottom of the product description. Didn't realize they were there since I ordered off amazon. :v:

After the cat finishes I'm going to try the little arduino box again. Should be easy since it's just two thin pieces of plastic with holes for screws and standoffs, and a big hole for a gshield's cooling fan.

edit: right after posting that the extruder ran through some infill and popped the headless cat off the build area. :lol:

Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Nov 26, 2017

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
I got Cura working. The issue was with it using absolute gcode. Adding G92 E0 to my starting script got it working; that sets the extruder to zero.

And boy, the ironing feature sure is nifty. I can kinda see through it to the infill; I wonder if adding more solid layers would prevent that. The one problem with it is that there is an issue with the test prints from all three slicers that not even ironing hides.



From left to right is Simplify3D, Cura, and slic3r. On the Cura block, you'll see vertical scars at the top left and bottom right of the Z. The other two have it as well, with slic3r being the worst.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Revol posted:

...I can kinda see through it to the infill; I wonder if adding more solid layers would prevent that.

I've found that for me, 4 top layers seems to do a nice job of evening out large flat areas. I'm sure that's also dependent on material, temperature, infill density, and probably 16 other variables too, but 4 seems to work well with PLA and PETG so far. YMMV, etc.

Fayez Butts
Aug 24, 2006

Prusa Slic3r has 5 solid bottom layers and 6 solid top. It seems like a lot but prints tend to come out pretty darn good.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr
Well I got the cat print to work and after a few bad starts with the first layer not sticking got part of my arduino box done. After the bottom is done I think I'm going to work up a better spool holder that uses some spare skateboard bearings.

I'm going to have to remember to track down my feeler gauges as they would have made it way easier to level the thing. Must have left them in a weird spot again.

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AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Well, looks like I won't be printing for a while, as it appears I have another project on my hands.

gently caress.

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