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dr_ether posted:Old Man Survivor for Kingdom Death Phew, this is great man. Love the color palette
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Nov 27, 2017 03:20
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dr_ether posted:Old Man Survivor for Kingdom Death
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Nov 27, 2017 06:32
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Ilor posted:I actually disagree with Hixson on this one, I'm not a fan of the lavender/purple tones. I get that you were going for that sort of pale, almost translucent old man skin, but the effect is less stunningly cool than your usual high standard. The OSL is nice and very well executed, however - subtle and effective. Everything he said but opposite.
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Nov 27, 2017 09:17
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ijyt posted:Everything he said but opposite.
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Nov 27, 2017 17:03
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Still plugging away at tacticool bigmar scout.  Greenstuff casting the reiver legs was a bad idea, I should have just bought a bunch of them.
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Nov 27, 2017 19:35
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Those pants look pretty dang good, you just freehand sculpted them out of greenstuff right? Nailed the folded cloth appearance.
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Nov 27, 2017 19:51
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Has anybody used the Vallejo Mecha paints yet? I'm wondering what the hell wash you use over Metallic Red (69.066) and Fluorescent Magenta (69.056).
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Nov 27, 2017 23:59
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What's the best way to strip paint completely from Citadel minis? I'm usually one to just live with my fuckups but I accidentally primed a set of Pox Walkers in Grey instead of White, and following Duncan's guide using mostly shades instead of paint they're way too dark. Hilighting the faces are getting a little black-face-y, so I want to start these ones over.
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Nov 28, 2017 02:52
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Quidthulhu posted:What's the best way to strip paint completely from Citadel minis? I'm usually one to just live with my fuckups but I accidentally primed a set of Pox Walkers in Grey instead of White, and following Duncan's guide using mostly shades instead of paint they're way too dark. Hilighting the faces are getting a little black-face-y, so I want to start these ones over. The Simple Green brand of all purpose cleaner is a good choice, just put the figures in a tub or dish (I use a yogurt container with a lid) cover them with cleaner, and give it a couple of days. Most of the paints will fleck off and and gentle brush with an old toothbrush removes even sticky primers. There are quicker methods with harsher cleaners, but simple green is my basic household cleaner and it's mild enough I don't need gloves.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:31
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I've heard that the new Simple Green formulation is bad for stripping paint and that you want LA's Totally Awesome now.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:42
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MrFlibble posted:I know GW sprays aren't primers but Yeah they are. I don’t use them myself, but they absolutely work as a primer.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:49
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My wet pallet seems to have suddenly developed permeability problems after I changed the paper in it. Most paints I put on it are really really thin when I go to use them, and a couple of them drain right through the paper onto the sponge. What could be causing this? I changed the paper following the procedures it came with, is it possible to damage the paper by soaking it in water that's too hot? The directions seem to indicate it isn't, but I'm not sure what else could be the cause.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:07
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wdarkk posted:My wet pallet seems to have suddenly developed permeability problems after I changed the paper in it. Most paints I put on it are really really thin when I go to use them, and a couple of them drain right through the paper onto the sponge. Haven't had that problem but yeah, sounds like that paper is just no good or maybe got too hot or something. Weird because I usually let mine get pretty hot and soak awhile (as per directions as you mentioned) but I'd just try a new piece of paper yeah.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:13
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Zaphod42 posted:Haven't had that problem but yeah, sounds like that paper is just no good or maybe got too hot or something. Weird because I usually let mine get pretty hot and soak awhile (as per directions as you mentioned) but I'd just try a new piece of paper yeah. Taking a look at the other sheets I have, the one I'm currently using felt less smooth than the others, so it might be defective or I somehow messed it up. I'll try using water that's warm, but not actually too hot for me to touch.
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Nov 28, 2017 04:26
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I've barely had time to paint but I finished some Trollblood Pyg Bushwackers. They are bad old sculpts that I rushed but I'm glad to have finished something I've had sitting around for probably 2-3 years, heh. 
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Nov 28, 2017 04:52
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I like the little blue dudes 
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Nov 28, 2017 04:53
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Quidthulhu posted:What's the best way to strip paint completely from Citadel minis? I'm usually one to just live with my fuckups but I accidentally primed a set of Pox Walkers in Grey instead of White, and following Duncan's guide using mostly shades instead of paint they're way too dark. Hilighting the faces are getting a little black-face-y, so I want to start these ones over. Avenging Dentist posted:I've heard that the new Simple Green formulation is bad for stripping paint and that you want LA's Totally Awesome now. Couple years ago I tried Simple Green and LAs Totally Awesome on some eBay rescue tanks and they both left most the paint on after weeks of soaking. Then I found Dawn Power Dissolver. This stuff is like magic. It's a commercial kitchen degreaser and it takes off paint in minutes, doesn't hurt plastic, is safe for your kitchen sink, and not even that harsh on your skin. It's a gel spray so you don't need much, and you don't have to soak, you spray it onto a mini, wait 30 minutes and then brush it a little with a toothbrush and at least 90% of the paint just falls off. Since the gel is thick and stick, you can even use it to strip parts of a model. It's hard to find in stores (Walmart used to sell tiny purple bottles of it) but you can get it from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Procter-Gamb...power+dissolver
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Nov 28, 2017 07:21
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Cool, I'll have to check that out. Have you tried using it to clean mold release from resin before? I'm wondering how well it'd work for that...
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Nov 28, 2017 07:29
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Bucnasti posted:Couple years ago I tried Simple Green and LAs Totally Awesome on some eBay rescue tanks and they both left most the paint on after weeks of soaking. Then I found Dawn Power Dissolver. Huh, maybe it'll be a match for prepainted figures.
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Nov 28, 2017 08:03
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Yeast posted:Yeah they are. I was referring to the guide at the beginning of this thread, although I suppose something might have changed in two years.
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Nov 28, 2017 16:34
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They’re not primers, since primers have a different formulation. That doesn’t mean they can’t work as a first layer, though.
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Nov 28, 2017 19:24
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My limited experience of the citadel coloured sprays is that it works as an undercoat, but is a little lacking in tooth (like whites usually are) so that colours can rub off from handling while you paint. I'd definitely put a varnish of some kind over it. If I were using them on scenery I think I would definitely put a like dusting of real undercoat on first. I was at the GW open day over the weekend and was told some stuff I found interesting and reassuring by one of the Eavy Metal team. The interesting thing was that, except for very specific exceptions (a white robe piece etc), they as a group will always paint over a black undercoat. They believe that it offers the best, most controlled colour balance. White undercoats can lead to dark colours being too bright etc. This is in addition to the obvious benefit of black being more forgiving if you miss something. The reassuring bit was that it can take them a couple of hours to paint a character's head, or a work day just to do a robe. In my mind they're all just wizards who bash that stuff out in moments. It's nice to be reassured that it's just as painstaking for them as for us plebs.
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Nov 28, 2017 20:23
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:My limited experience of the citadel coloured sprays is that it works as an undercoat, but is a little lacking in tooth (like whites usually are) so that colours can rub off from handling while you paint. I'd definitely put a varnish of some kind over it. If I were using them on scenery I think I would definitely put a like dusting of real undercoat on first. That's interesting, so no zenithal for them? I'm probably going back to all black priming just because I end up doing highlights anyway that make zenithal pointless.
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Nov 28, 2017 20:50
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No zenithal. They do use airbrushes, but only for base coating. For speed, and to help ensure uniformity when a squad is being broken up between multiple painters.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:03
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:No zenithal. They do use airbrushes, but only for base coating. For speed, and to help ensure uniformity when a squad is being broken up between multiple painters. That's some cool insight. Would love an in depth look at the eavy metal studio. I'm really interested in finding the right balance of quality and speed so that I can field new armies that look good but don't take months for 2k points.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:06
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Honestly, I think the answer to that is the more in-depth videos on the Warhammer TV youtube channel. Saint Duncan of the Miracle of Two Coats is the light and the way.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:12
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Related to zenithal priming, is it worth doing on something that's going to have silver over top of it? I was reading that it's more effective under darker colors rather than lighter, but I don't know if that means it is or isn't worth doing under silver/metallics.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:13
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For what it's worth my biggest revalation in painting faster recently was to use color primer when possible or just white. It makes basecoating so fast, which is really the tedious part for me. The second biggest revelation was to use the biggest brush I can get away with for a task, which also makes things a lot faster.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:14
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Booyah- posted:The second biggest revelation was to use the biggest brush I can get away with for a task, which also makes things a lot faster.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:40
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Yeah, always use the largest brush you can get away with, as long as its point is fine enough to do the level of detail you want.
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Nov 28, 2017 22:23
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FromTheShire posted:Related to zenithal priming, is it worth doing on something that's going to have silver over top of it? I was reading that it's more effective under darker colors rather than lighter, but I don't know if that means it is or isn't worth doing under silver/metallics. Metallics generally look better over black, although if you were doing a larger area zenithal might be worth doing. One other thing I've been messing around with when I've done zenithal priming is to go over it with a black wash. Helps make out what details are what instead of trying to decipher them on white or black and actually looks kind of cool if you procrastinate on getting to the actually painting it stage 
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Nov 29, 2017 03:25
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It also looks like a photo from a 1990ies mini catalogue, which is nice.
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Nov 29, 2017 08:18
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Schadenboner posted:Not quite what I was thinking but thanks all the same. It also answered a question which had been bothering me for a couple of days: "What's that Polish bits company that isn't Kromlech or Maxmini?" so that was helpful as well. I got you fam https://madrobotminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_10&products_id=312
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Nov 29, 2017 09:36
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Yeah, always use the largest brush you can get away with, as long as its point is fine enough to do the level of detail you want. W&N Size 1 oh yeah. Moving up from 0 was quite an improvement. Great pointy tip for details, huuuuge belly so you don't accidentally overload with paint into the ferrule and holds moisture for so much longer. Compared to the 0 it's like another company made this. wdarkk posted:My wet pallet seems to have suddenly developed permeability problems after I changed the paper in it. Most paints I put on it are really really thin when I go to use them, and a couple of them drain right through the paper onto the sponge. There are different types of wet palette paper out there. What you put in sounds like the paper meant for heavier paints, where lighter acrylics we use for modeling will seep through. The default Sta-Wet papers that I got with mine were no good. I've been using Reynolds Genuine Parchment Paper with much better results. Put a penny or two under the sponge to keep it from molding and smelling like poop. Philthy fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 16:08
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darnon posted:Metallics generally look better over black, although if you were doing a larger area zenithal might be worth doing. That's very helpful, thank you! Really dig the effect that wash gives too
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Nov 29, 2017 16:38
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Vince Venturello, in his preparing for your best paint job video, actually recommends zenithal priming, then washing, and finally drybrushing with an off-white. It works badly for me because I suck at drybrushing, though.
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Nov 29, 2017 17:48
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Philthy posted:W&N Size 1 oh yeah. Moving up from 0 was quite an improvement. Great pointy tip for details, huuuuge belly so you don't accidentally overload with paint into the ferrule and holds moisture for so much longer. Compared to the 0 it's like another company made this. Yeah, W&N 1 is what what I use for normal layering and line/edge highlighting.
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Nov 29, 2017 18:10
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Finished these liberators recently, mostly as test minis for my shadespire warband, but I'd be happy enough doing another unit of these or two. Also trying to work out how to do the retributors in a way that fits with these guys.
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Nov 29, 2017 18:37
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Booyah- posted:Finished these liberators recently, mostly as test minis for my shadespire warband, but I'd be happy enough doing another unit of these or two. Also trying to work out how to do the retributors in a way that fits with these guys. Looks good. That's likely going to be the color scheme I'm going with as well.
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Nov 29, 2017 20:16
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Just a heads up, those Rathcore v3 mini holders are up for sale. https://www.pk-pro.de/Miniature-Holders-Grips-V3 Love mine. The only thing that annoyed me is the two metal bars can move and twist against each other, so I plastidipped the arm and it's now legit awesome.  I use the 70mm with great effect and it fits my hands perfect. My friend uses the 50mm and enjoys it, and also has the 90mm and said that is just too big for him. I was able to get a War Machine Warjack on the 70mm, probably the largest I would be able to fit without running into issues rotating the bar around. Philthy fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 20:46
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