|
Hey foosel: thanks for everything. There’s a really convenient plug-in called Octoprint-Pidtune. I’ve suggested it to a few people on facebook, but someone else usually jumps in and asserts that because the plugin isn’t available directly through the plugin manager, it must be dangerous or malicious. Any insight beyond facebook being a cesspool? https://github.com/tohara/OctoPrint-Pidtune/blob/master/README.md
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 20:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 20:21 |
|
|
It not being available on the repository is usually caused by the author not submitting it there  I try to encourage that whenever I can but it's up to the author to send the registration PR.I took a quick look at the plugin's source and it looks fine, so maybe just open a ticket on the plugin's repo and give the author a friendly push to register it!
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 21:19
|
|
|
I think I've got ABS dialed in on my mk2s. It was warping on a corner and I realized the $25 heater I bought was blowing air at the exact corner that was warping, so I rotated the heater 90 degrees and I don't see the warping happening now. Excited to rebuild my clone with better printed parts. e: haha nevermind it's warping bad ughhh mewse fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 23:14
|
|
|
3D printing is summed up well with: 1. Hey I fixed my problem! 2. No wait I didn’t and possibly caused something else
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:25
|
|
|
ABS is just a big ol' pain. Unless you need to do vapor polishing, get nylon and a gluestick and never look back. Remember: PET is the better PLA, and nylon is the better ABS
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 02:26
|
|
|
Man, just had a 48 hour print fail 30 hours in. Thankfully it's an "airy" design so not much plastic was wasted. That's okay, though, because in the meantime I could redesign the parts to be easier to print.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 02:38
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:ABS is just a big ol' pain. Unless you need to do vapor polishing, get nylon and a gluestick and never look back. ASA is the better ABS. Nylon a poo poo
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 02:48
|
|
|
has anyone made an SA hand grenade model i can dl by any chance? e: or something just as awful
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 04:10
|
|
|
The latest firmware and stock Slic3r settings for the Prusa are fantastic. 100 mm/s with little loss of quality. From 2:23 to 1:48. This is eSun PET.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sm1y_ld67XQ Megabound fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 07:12
|
|
|
I'm needing some help with modelling and am not exactly sure where I need to start to learn how to do it.. You can download the .f3d file here: http://arkatechs.net/ChairArmExtension.f3d Essentially, I need to shorten the indicated lines by 10mm. This would put an angle on the entire top part, so it wouldn't be perpendicular to the plane anymore. I feel like that consideration should have been made well before this point in the design, but I'm wondering if there's a way to go back and modify that using the timeline feature.  Any hints on how to move forward?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 18:25
|
|
|
It's probably not the best way but you could extrude/cut 10 mm out and then use the align tool. And then combine Or depending how you have produced the model edit the profile sketch. The menu bar on the right with the sketch pallete may help
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:48
|
|
|
Why bother, that’s 3 sketches, 2 extrudes and a bevel.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:55
|
|
|
Yeah. If you give me the dimensions I'll recreate that part for you in 90 seconds
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 21:00
|
|
|
Like this?  Here's the part if so: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ie528fx593geh9r/CloFan.f3d?dl=0 Fayez Butts fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 21:27
|
|
|
I made a pull back car for my nephew for Christmas this year. Took a fair bit of work be well worth it  https://imgur.com/D8YMDOD
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 22:39
|
|
|
Fayez Butts posted:Like this? You guys have missed the point, the top surface is supposed to have a slope to it. CloFan, here is a version I made from scratch, it has the shape you want but the sizes are different. You'll have to add dimensions to the sketches and change the extrusion widths. You seem to be new at this, so this will be good for you to learn how dimensions and constraints work and how you can modify features in the timeline. http://a360.co/2BvOOCn
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 23:00
|
|
|
I was just typing up a post and was about to say since I am new to CAD, maybe I should get better by starting all over and doing it properly to begin with. And then BMan comes in and nails it! That's exactly what I was going for, I'll download that and tweak it. But, I do need to keep practicing and get better. Thanks to everyone for helping! Jestery posted:I made a pull back car for my nephew for Christmas this year. That is  !
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 23:09
|
|
|
There's still some tweaking to be done on my settings but so far I've got the arduino enclosure done, with a bonus enclosure sides print since the original was only intended to be a top and bottom, and right now the second of a pair of spool holders is finishing. They're basically just a pair of plugs with a bore for inserting a skate bearing so the spool can rotate very smoothly. Not that it's at all necessary but I don't really like the built in spool holder so why not make my own fancy pants one?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
My Octoprint SD card got corrupted and died and I have had to reinstall it on a fresh card. This meant that I have lost all my settings, and I cant remember some of the things that I did last time I set it up. I am having issues with the extruder not starting to extrude when I start a print, and if i try to manually extrude it just whirrs without moving any filament. I think that this is because at the end of a print it is retracting the filament too far and it is then unable to grip it at the start of a print. If i reload the filament back in manually and then restart the print it will work. where do i fix this in Octoprint? (I'm using a Wanhao i3 running from a RAMPS box with Repetier firmware)
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 15:14
|
|
|
Retraction is controlled in your slicer unless you're doing something weird like firmware based retraction
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 15:17
|
|
|
mewse posted:Retraction is controlled in your slicer unless you're doing something weird like firmware based retraction I definitely changed something in octoprint last time to fix this? Unless I just added an extrusion command after the print completes? (and this works when it is still hot?) I haven't changed any settings in my slicer since I last used it. I've got both cura and wanhao-cura on this PC. Ive always used a combination of both. If I use wanhau-cura, at the end of the gcode it seems to have: code:I'll try using normal Cura instead and see what it does.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 17:03
|
|
|
If I'm reading that gcode correctly it's retracting 6mm at the end of the print which would be OK if you were using a bowden but it doesn't sound like it from what you're saying. You may have previously altered some of the gcode that comes with octoprint but I think generally that stuff shouldn't be screwed with because it's basic gcode like turning off heat and motors when a job is cancelled.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 17:32
|
|
|
mewse posted:If I'm reading that gcode correctly it's retracting 6mm at the end of the print which would be OK if you were using a bowden but it doesn't sound like it from what you're saying. Yeah, I read that as a -6mm retraction too, and i'm not using a bowden sleeve. I don't know why the wanhao-cura would put that in there though? I've added code in to make it park the bed and extruder differently so as to give a better view from my webcam after a print job completes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 17:53
|
|
|
Goddamn, I replaced my extruder but left like 2mm of PTFE tube too much and now it’s getting all hung up when I feed filament. Do I have to dismantle the whole assembly to trim it or can I just drill out the PTFE tube?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 20:41
|
|
|
So, I have now ordered a Anet A8 kit. From what I've read - the stock printer is a major fire hazard and as such requires few mods in form of updating firmware, using mosfets, soldering the heated bed wires directly and using a better PSU. Are there any other safety things that I might have missed? That and what are some QoL things I can do after I get the printer up and running?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 21:18
|
|
|
For genuine QoL? Save up and buy a better printer after you get done playing with the kit. Bringing an Anet up to par with better printers is an eternal money pit that ends up costing you more than the cost of buying the more expensive printer first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 21:35
|
|
|
I thinking about converting my Cr-10 to direct drive. Is this just a matter of moving my extruder assembly to on-top of my x-gantry? Is there some sort of 2020 gantry system that is Printable and isn't poo poo?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 22:29
|
|
|
Mortvert posted:So, I have now ordered a Anet A8 kit. That special glass I forget the name of for the bed, and a pi for octoprint with a Webcam are well worth it, print out a new fan nozzle and the other fun learning upgrade prints.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 22:50
|
|
|
Keket posted:That special glass I forget the name of for the bed, and a pi for octoprint with a Webcam are well worth it, print out a new fan nozzle and the other fun learning upgrade prints. I’d skip the borosilicate and just buy picture frame glass. I’ve been running for two years on a sheet of 1/8” I bought locally for $3.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 23:04
|
|
|
Keket posted:That special glass I forget the name of for the bed. Borosilicate?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 23:04
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I’d skip the borosilicate and just buy picture frame glass. I’ve been running for two years on a sheet of 1/8” I bought locally for $3. It's good that that's been working out for you, but I think the Borosilicate is usually recommended because it doesn't react as explosively to extreme temperature changes. Granted, on a 3d printer, you shouldn't be taking your hot glass print bed and dunking it in water or anything, but that is exactly the kind of thing that often shatters regular glass.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
Mortvert posted:So, I have now ordered a Anet A8 kit. In order of "Will Make This Printer Incrementally More Safe": absolutely do MOSFETs first (both the heated bed and the hot end). Soldering wires directly (bypassing the cheap connectors) second, better power supply third. As far as I know the firmware has little to nothing to do with making it safer. With the Anet you're trying to reduce the propensity of cheap manufacturing to physically fail. That having been said: biracial bear for uncut posted:Bringing an Anet up to par with better printers is an eternal money pit that ends up costing you more than the cost of buying the more expensive printer first. is absolutely right. I have an A8 (it's my first printer and I got it as a gift), and I've set myself a firm limit to how much money I'm willing to sink into the little bastard. That philosophy creates a practical limit to how good you can make it print, yes, but you can't fool yourself into thinking that you can turn crap into gold. Eventually you're going to have to mod it so much in the name of physical stability that practically speaking it won't be the same machine. The Anet is like the goddamn Printer of Theseus. Have fun I'm happy to help if you have any Anet-specific questions.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 01:16
|
|
|
If I want to print a combination of PLA and PETG, one for model and one for support material, does it matter which I use for the model vs. support? I'd like to print my model out of PETG and use the PLA for support material so I'm not dealing with bed adhesion, but I didn't know if one plastic printed better onto the other. I wouldn't think so but wanted to check in case I was missing something obvious.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
I haven't tried that particular combination, but...why are you doing that? PET and PLA cost about the same and neither one is easily dissolvable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 03:11
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I haven't tried that particular combination, but...why are you doing that? PET and PLA cost about the same and neither one is easily dissolvable. I'm printing models with organic, curved surfaces and a good amount of nooks and crannies, so I've been printing with PLA-ABS, using the ABS for the dense supports. I'm finding that I don't actually need to dissolve the ABS- it snaps away from the PLA pretty well. But it warps like all hell on things like the prime pillar/ooze shield. I'd like to stop using it, but I don't want to just print in PLA alone because then I have trouble separating the dense support layers from the model, especially in the smaller nooks. From what I've read online, PETG and PLA print well together but don't bond too tightly, so they will snap apart without much trouble. So I was thinking of trying that, and I have a roll of PETG available. I figured I'd ask before I loaded it up if there was some esoteric reason why you'd want to use one for the model vs supports.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 03:25
|
|
|
My CR-10 just blew out 2 of the 5 fans. I'm going to replace them with quieter models, but jeez. I barely have 30 hours on it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 04:10
|
|
|
For those of you with a Rostock that uses that tiny 25mm fan, this one from Amazon is a thousand percent quieter than the one SeeMeCNC provides: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYNWUP4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've also converted to using these thread-in thermistors in place of the glass ones. gently caress bare glass ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07577L81W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm also 95% of the way done printing the classic LED bridge lamp, found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1703104 However, the feet are too large to print, even for my Rostock, without splitting them. So, I remixed the feet a bit (ruining the aesthetics, I'll admit) so they fit on my print bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2690447
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 04:25
|
|
|
Listerine posted:I'm printing models with organic, curved surfaces and a good amount of nooks and crannies, so I've been printing with PLA-ABS, using the ABS for the dense supports. I'm finding that I don't actually need to dissolve the ABS- it snaps away from the PLA pretty well. But it warps like all hell on things like the prime pillar/ooze shield. I'd like to stop using it, but I don't want to just print in PLA alone because then I have trouble separating the dense support layers from the model, especially in the smaller nooks. Huh. Well, if it works, post some pictures. We have a Dimension BST with breakaway supports, and I always thought they worked pretty well, so if there's a method of doing that on the cheap I'd be interested.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 04:59
|
|
|
 How do you get rid of travel lines? Z-lift on retraction? If so, is there a way to only do Z lift during top surfaces?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 05:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 20:21 |
|
|
csammis posted:In order of "Will Make This Printer Incrementally More Safe": absolutely do MOSFETs first (both the heated bed and the hot end). Soldering wires directly (bypassing the cheap connectors) second, better power supply third. As far as I know the firmware has little to nothing to do with making it safer. With the Anet you're trying to reduce the propensity of cheap manufacturing to physically fail. The firmware thing is for re-enabling safety features like mintemp or maxtemp, I can't recall the exact name - so if thermistor disconnects or stops working I won't end up with melted hotend due to too much heat. Unless I've read things wrong?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 05:46
|
|