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Here's a sonic blue manual 06 with 124k asking $13750, in NC: https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6255203279.html
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Aug 21, 2017 23:09
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Saw that one on swedespeed, can't believe it hasn't sold yet. It's priced perfectly unless he's 100% not negotiable. Probably the interior color that keeps it from selling, most people don't like Gobi.
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Aug 23, 2017 07:13
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LloydDobler posted:Saw that one on swedespeed, can't believe it hasn't sold yet. It's priced perfectly unless he's 100% not negotiable. Probably the interior color that keeps it from selling, most people don't like Gobi. True, but for a manual late-run VR, that's a reasonable asking price. If I was totaled tomorrow, I would consider calling him up.
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Aug 23, 2017 15:31
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LloydDobler posted:Maybe a leaky fuel injector? Or vacuum leak around an injector or manifold gasket? Intake manifold gasket is not terribly hard or expensive to replace if you want to rule it out. Just remove the radiator fan first. Intake manifold gasket was replaced when I did the PCV system. I'll get some injector o-rings and give that a shot. Just replaced both lambda sensors, too. Code keeps haunting me.
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Aug 28, 2017 05:48
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Anyone got a single-cam non-turbo redblock for sale within a couple hours of the DC/Richmond area? Cylinder 2 is full of coolant and all the wreckers in the area have nothing. I am pretty upset. e: to clarify, I just want an engine hurf durf Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Aug 28, 2017 |
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Aug 28, 2017 20:11
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I had to scrap my spare redblock last year in preparation for moving house 
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Aug 28, 2017 21:15
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So I bought that R:   Got it home:  Took the broken stuff out:  Found unbroken stuff:  Robbed my XC of some parts:  Put it all together:  And ended the weekend with this:  Waiting on a radiator, AC condenser, and bumper brackets (they weren't hurt in the wreck but they kind of fell apart when I took the bumper off). Still need to decide on what to do about headlights and corner lamps - I'll probably just bite the bullet and get some knockoff jewels.
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Aug 29, 2017 04:15
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Coming out great,was the rad support o.e.?
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Aug 29, 2017 04:24
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Which one?  The broken one and the replacement are both OEM. I scored the replacement for like $20 at the junkyard - a new one would have been about $650, which feels like robbery considering how fragile it is. I was originally planning to use the one out of my XC but I decided to keep it looking like a car for as long as possible so I don't piss off my neighbors.
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Aug 29, 2017 04:38
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So I'm looking at a 2005 V50 T5 (auto) with 150k miles on it. The price seems really good and it's in great condition and I'm pretty handy with a wrench for maintenance and stuff. Is there anything I should look out for (like glaring issues with this model that I've missed in my internet research) with this that I should be wary of?
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Aug 29, 2017 14:19
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Great work on that R, Zundfolge.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:35
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GutBomb posted:So I'm looking at a 2005 V50 T5 (auto) with 150k miles on it. The price seems really good and it's in great condition and I'm pretty handy with a wrench for maintenance and stuff. Is there anything I should look out for (like glaring issues with this model that I've missed in my internet research) with this that I should be wary of? Start with the sticky threads here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?54-S40-amp-V50-(2005-2012) They're pretty bulletproof but a couple maintenance items absolutely need doing, mostly cooling system and belts. Too much plastic and no coolant loss warning. These heads run hot and warp almost instantly if you dump the coolant. I just bought one for my daughter and so far I like it, I use it to split the miles up on my other cars.
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Aug 29, 2017 20:11
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GutBomb posted:So I'm looking at a 2005 V50 T5 (auto) with 150k miles on it. The price seems really good and it's in great condition and I'm pretty handy with a wrench for maintenance and stuff. Is there anything I should look out for (like glaring issues with this model that I've missed in my internet research) with this that I should be wary of? What Lloyd said, basically. I've had my 2006 V50 T5M for about a year and a half now and after about 25K miles (it has about 125K currently) I haven't had to do any unexpected maintenance. On the preventive maintenance front, I've replaced the timing belt, serpentine belts and tensioners, brakes, engine mounts, and front control arms. While I had it apart for the timing belt I replaced the upper rad hose and thermostat housing. I also had to replace the coolant reservoir right after I bought it because it had a crack in the top. On the "annoying but not critical" front, the AC compressor clutch stopped engaging in hot weather so I had to do the zip tie mod, and the outside temp display acts wonky sometimes. I had to replace the driver's side mirror last Christmas after someone busted it and I think the connection between the mirror and the door module needs cleaned. It's been a good car and I love the way it drives - it's one of the best handling Volvos IMO.
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Aug 29, 2017 22:03
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zundfolge posted:What Lloyd said, basically. I've had my 2006 V50 T5M for about a year and a half now and after about 25K miles (it has about 125K currently) I haven't had to do any unexpected maintenance. On the preventive maintenance front, I've replaced the timing belt, serpentine belts and tensioners, brakes, engine mounts, and front control arms. While I had it apart for the timing belt I replaced the upper rad hose and thermostat housing. I also had to replace the coolant reservoir right after I bought it because it had a crack in the top. On the "annoying but not critical" front, the AC compressor clutch stopped engaging in hot weather so I had to do the zip tie mod, and the outside temp display acts wonky sometimes. I had to replace the driver's side mirror last Christmas after someone busted it and I think the connection between the mirror and the door module needs cleaned. Good stuff. I just bought it! It's going to be my wife's car, but I was cross-shopping an 07 Passat Wagon 2.0T and the Volvo is just so much better in every way. The Passat was bumpy, slow, FWD, had creaks and rattles everywhere, lovely paint, the works. The Volvo could pass for a new car in the way it drove and looks. Best $4,000 car ever (don't gently caress me on this, Volvo).
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Aug 29, 2017 22:32
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GutBomb posted:So I'm looking at a 2005 V50 T5 (auto) with 150k miles on it. The price seems really good and it's in great condition and I'm pretty handy with a wrench for maintenance and stuff. Is there anything I should look out for (like glaring issues with this model that I've missed in my internet research) with this that I should be wary of? I have one of those, it's good. Problems I've had: The plastic radiator header tank thing has sprung a leak (easy to replace), the brakes squeal a bit when it starts, the sway bar bushings needed replacing when they started knocking and the front drains from the sunroof get clogged and start leaking (check the mats in the footwell for damp). Oh and the CD player died and is basically unfixable without spending $1k+. I've heard the locking mechanism can get stuck and it's happened a couple of times but has fixed itself. There are a few weird little design decisions - drivers seat roof is low, sunlight reflects off the dash, cupholders are gigantic, glovebox is tiny, door storage is too small, the rear storage is small for a station wagon - but it's a fantastic car to drive and it's been pretty reliable all up. I'd say go for it.
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Aug 29, 2017 23:09
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The previous owner of the wrecked R I bought gave me his folder of maintenance receipts last weekend. During his ownership he spent nearly $9K in order to drive the car less than 25,000 miles.  I knew I was saving a lot of money doing my own work, but yikes.
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Sep 21, 2017 02:26
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There are stories that Volvo and their dealers are willing to give you some goodwill credits on expensive repairs due to premature failure, out of warranty. That seems to be more possible if you are loyal and use the dealer for work and service. My local dealer sends me emails about service specials including $359 oil change, tire rotation, and coolant flush. Like I get the T6 uses almost 8qt of oil and the shop hourly rate is probably crazy but drat. Doesn't help they have Volvo in with Porsche and Land Rover and play the upscale luxury angle on everything.
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Sep 21, 2017 11:16
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Some Volvo dealers will also give discounts on parts and labor if you bring in an older Volvo. The one near me goes up to 20% off everything, which comes in handy occasionally. I still prefer doing my own work over spending gobs of money for someone else to possibly do a halfassed job though.
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Sep 21, 2017 13:41
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zundfolge posted:The previous owner of the wrecked R I bought gave me his folder of maintenance receipts last weekend. During his ownership he spent nearly $9K in order to drive the car less than 25,000 miles. That sounded normal to me until I remembered it's a P80 and not a P2. Yikes. I have the same thing, the PO of my R had too many project cars so his wife demanded that he not do his own work on it. He paid a shop for everything. He lost most of the reciepts and such but the ones I have show over $6k in just the 18 months before I bought it. Also only 25k miles. And among the missing reciepts are all the mods, and the replacement motor as well as the repairs from salvage when he bought it.
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Sep 21, 2017 23:03
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So I'm getting around to fixing the problems on my cheap v50 and I'm having trouble determining if the timing belt has been done. The teeth look fine, the back of the belt doesn't have much wear. Indications that it has been done are that the plastic cover that goes over the timing belt wasn't clipped in place on the back side of the engine so it was just sort of flopping around, and the belt has a clearly readable label on it "CONTITECH" Can anyone verify for me whether OEM timing belts from volvo are Contitech belts? Edit: So, I started calling the shops listed on the service history that just had generic "Vehicle Serviced" entries and the third one I called told me the the car had actually been owned by one of their techs after she looked up the VIN so she tracked the guy down and asked what the service was and he said he did the timing belt. Sweet! GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Oct 6, 2017 |
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Oct 6, 2017 20:07
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LloydDobler posted:Sold my old faithful V70 T5 manual on Friday. Sad times. Second longest I've ever owned a car, (8 years to the month) and second highest miles I've ever put on one car (109k) I put more miles on my first 122, but I only owned it 6 years. This car would have beaten that except I shared the miles with my convertible. Tried this...ignition is now locked up, car won't start. Called Volvo they said that it's supposed to blink 3 times before you start it. Tried that, didn't work. They said as a last resort to pull the battery cables and touch them together to reset, so far that hasn't worked. I'm charging my battery up right now just to confirm it's not a low battery and I'll try the pulling the cables again, but not really having high hopes at this time. Any thoughts? At least four hours from the nearest dealer, so I gotta fix this myself.
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Oct 28, 2017 21:01
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Oxphocker posted:Tried this...ignition is now locked up, car won't start. Ignition locked? You mean the key is jammed up? Or are you just saying it cranks and cranks with no start? Either way, you need a VIDA/DICE setup if you're that far from the nearest dealer. Any indy Volvo shops closer? VIDA will reset the service warning without the key and button shenanigans.
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Oct 30, 2017 02:51
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Luckily, letting the car sit for two hours, went in and it cranked on the first try...drat service message is still there though =( but I'm not going to screw with it anymore..
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Oct 30, 2017 03:27
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I know this guy personally, he's alright: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?465809-VIDA-dedicated-laptops-for-sale That and a chinese DICE and you're set. But if you know computers like most SA people then just skip it and buy one with the disc and get your own laptop. You NEED this. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 05:49
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LloydDobler posted:I know this guy personally, he's alright: Thanks... I have the DICE, but trying to get it to work with my laptop has been a nightmare, this would solve that issue and for $250 that's not a bad deal...
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Nov 2, 2017 23:32
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Anyone in the North Georgia/Atlanta/Knoxville/Nashville/Asheville/Huntsville area have a set of good Virgos they want to sell at a non-ridiculous price? I want a set for my 240. Where do you even buy these besides ebay or constantly scanning craigslist? Do i need to break down after 12 years and finally make a turbobricks account and find a set from some flat-billed hat wearing vaper jackass with chopped springs on his mom's old 740? My last set I found locally on Craigslist but that was over ten years ago and things are different now and 240s were never super-popular here.
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Nov 2, 2017 23:52
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berth ell pup posted:Do i need to break down after 12 years and finally make a turbobricks account and find a set from some flat-billed hat wearing vaper jackass with chopped springs on his mom's old 740?
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Nov 3, 2017 04:00
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There are a decent amount of Turbobrickers in that area so someone might be able to hook you up, but to hear the old timers there tell it most Virgos you can find nowadays are bent and you might have trouble finding a straight set of four, especially if you buy them from Snapback McVaperson.
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Nov 3, 2017 04:23
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I was cleaning out my basement this weekend and found some leftover IPD parts I never got around to putting on my 240 - front and rear bushing kits and a pair of Bilstein front touring shocks. I don’t know anyone that still has a 240 so if you’re interested, PM me - they aren’t doing anyone any good sitting on my basement shelf.
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Nov 15, 2017 21:45
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does anyone know if this will accept the existing master cylinder on a 1990 volvo 760 turbo https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-power-brake-booster-740-760-780-940-cardone-car-532680
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Nov 16, 2017 20:51
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Nevermind that's not the abs version gently caress me
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Nov 16, 2017 21:19
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SwashedBuckles posted:I was cleaning out my basement this weekend and found some leftover IPD parts I never got around to putting on my 240 - front and rear bushing kits and a pair of Bilstein front touring shocks. My sister still drives a 240. I'm in Denver and she's in Portland, either of us anywhere near you?
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Nov 17, 2017 00:24
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LloydDobler posted:My sister still drives a 240. I'm in Denver and she's in Portland, either of us anywhere near you? I’m just south of Boston, so unfortunately the other side of the country 
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Nov 17, 2017 02:11
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are the bushing kits just regular OEM or the poly kits?
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Nov 17, 2017 05:20
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Terrible Robot posted:are the bushing kits just regular OEM or the poly kits? Just the OEM replacement ones.
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Nov 18, 2017 02:37
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Last November, I was lucky enough to get introduced to a mechanic that was trying to get a business up and running last November. At the time, my car's motor was showing it's age - smoke after idling, and then oil in the coolant. I started chatting him up about potentially having him swap a junk yard motor into my car as a relatively economical way to get the car back on the road. He clearly knew his poo poo, having worked on a top fuel dragster team for years, but it turned out he had recently swapped the clutch and fabricated a custom exhaust for a manual swapped 850R of an acquaintance of mine. That made him the only shop I know that would work on a manual swapped Volvo, so I was sold. I'm sure there are other performance related shops that would do the work, however this guy was met through a mutual friend and it was more of a low-key relationship. He's certainly given me many hours of his time that weren't billed which I kind of feel bad about. I obtained a motor from a wrecked 98 V70R, however that plan ended up getting thrown out of the window at some point. I ended up just rebuilding the original motor, grabbing a limited split differential, new Garrett Gen 2 GTX3071R, and a whole lot of other components. The car was back together for the most part in late summer. The last few months have been basically just trying to get the tune in order. The tuner I'm using came to town last week and we rented a dyno Thursday and again on Saturday. We weren't able to hit the expected 450whp due to the wastegate being unable to close once it has opened at all. Target boost is 28-29psi. Some notes from the tuner: quote:We had problems keeping the boost consistent throughout the RPM range. As soon as the TCV duty cycle dropped below 99% nd allowed the wastegate to open it wouldn't be able to fully close again. I struggled with keeping it fully shut as high into the RPMs as possible, without a taper to the target TCV duty cycle, but this made it very difficult to avoid overshoot. We tried increasing the wastegate preload, but this helped only marginally. Sometime in the spring Phil will probably add water methanol injection and a stronger wastegate actuator, at which point we'll re-tune the car. Some of the hardware on the car includes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cg6O1gL4DA       
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Dec 4, 2017 03:52
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goobernoodles posted:Big turbo goodness Pretty cool setup. Was the problem with the original engine the head gasket?
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Dec 4, 2017 06:32
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What is that plastic bottle doing? Also, 
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Dec 4, 2017 08:43
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Pretty cool setup. Was the problem with the original engine the head gasket? ionn posted:What is that plastic bottle doing?
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Dec 4, 2017 17:17
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Gorgeous car with the perfect wheels. Far and away my favorite setup. Have you screwed around with the linkage on the wastegate at all to see if it's binding? Seems to me like that is where the problem might be.
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Dec 4, 2017 20:08
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