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You're not really going to know the real answer to that unless you start doing oil analysis.
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Dec 6, 2017 21:23
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Is it that vehicle-specific? Given the Mobil 1 EP has been out a few years I thought we'd be close to a goonmind consensus (unless the consensus is "you won't know unless you do oil analysis").
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Dec 6, 2017 21:28
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The claims are very easy to disprove if the oil didnt last at least 15k before breaking down you would have heard about it, there would be a class action by now. I wouldnt try it on an older car or high mileage one i guess. Youll be running with more crud for sure but im not sure thats a problem on a modern engine they produce far less crud in the first place. If your modern engine is kicking out as much carbon as say a 90's truck you have some serious issues. Its heat cycles that break it down mostly. i guess if you live in a harsh environment thats something to consider. Also if you take a bunch of short trips that dont fully heat the engine you arent cooking off the bad stuff so i guess consider that as well. A wix test kit is cheap. I dunno i wouldnt be worried at all about trying it once and doing a test to see how it held up.
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Dec 6, 2017 21:55
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cigaw posted:Another potentially stupid question: Are extended life engine oils (such as the Mobil 1 Extended Performance) that go up to like 15k/1 year any good? I have run mobil 1 EP out to 12,000 miles, it seemed OK but I didn’t have it analyzed. Normally the factory toyota 0-20w would get a little clatter at around 7k and the factory recommended interval is 10k. So audibly it performed better than normal. I switched to Amsoil signature series for no real reason other than I like Amsoil. Have zero complaints.
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Dec 6, 2017 22:05
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Update re: 2004 Scion xB with off-spec steering affecting the VSC controls. Removed the steering wheel, and that was just a dead end and I’m not even sure what I was thinking. The plugs for the airbags et al are in the way and the sensors read off of the shaft it attaches to anyways. I’m having a real bad case of not giving a gently caress right now what with 80 hour work weeks and wedding plans, so I looked up solutions that don’t involve actually fixing the problem (ya know, correcting my alignment). Several people mentioned pulling the fuse powering the body control computer (ABS, Trac, and VSC). This throws all the lights in the dash for those services and sets the car back to Stone Age tech. I got up to touching that fuse before I backed down and made plans for my vacation to fix the problem correctly. Hooked the battery back up and everything back together. The car has not since thrown a VSC error at me so maybe I reset its specs by leaving the battery unplugged for long enough? Idk. Whole thing makes me want my 240 back.
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Dec 7, 2017 00:17
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My first car, an '05 Ford Fiesta with 150,000km is on the verge of death via leaking head gasket, and price of repairs (and head machining) are out of the question vs the value, even if I could do labour myself. I could do the reasonable thing and buy a quality used 2007 Corolla for $6500AUD and send the Fiesta to a wrecker for $100... but I've noticed something that could be either the best or worst decision of my life. In my city there is currently an auction of the ex-ADF 4x4 Land Rover 110 'Perentie' The line between best/worst idea of my life is feeling very thin and blurred. There is a cheap reliable Ninja 250 I can buy as real transport alongside this, so it won't be the total-moron decision of my only transport being an unregistered project (though bus/train is honestly pretty passable here). Going to inspect them tomorrow. Seems they are expected to go for $8-12k, so I might be lucky and be able to afford it if it stays low, or may be REALLY lucky and be outpriced and saved from the inevitable regret that would come with both buying or choosing to let it pass by. My living expenses are very minimal and I burned no savings even while unemployed. It's not going to bankrupt me with any involuntary ongoing expenses and I've got nothing else to waste my money on other than an overseas holiday, and anyway I would rather see my own country first, which this thing would be great for. If all goes to poo poo and I throw in the towel, it should sell privately for no loss once roadworthy. tl;dr tell me "poo poo idea for a moron and the gearbox+trans+diff will all be hosed to the cost of thousands and it'll never get on the road and the unassisted steering will kill your little bitch arms even if you miraculously did, also nobody you think you can rope in to help work on it will." tl;dr tl;dr just reply "nice meltdown"
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Dec 7, 2017 10:18
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2006 Honda Accord Type-S (Acura TSX in American money) The driver's side butt warmer doesn't work. I checked the fuses and wiring to to the seat, but all of them looked okay without burns or disconnects. The warming up butts light lights up when I activate it. Passenger's side works normally. Is there anything else to easy to check, or is it likely that the warming pads etc have died and requires pulling the seat, checking resistor thingys and soldering it back together?
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Dec 7, 2017 19:38
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Disconnect whatever connector supplies voltage to the seat and make sure there's voltage there / it's plugged in properly, but out of everything in that circuit, it's the hot wire that gets flexed by your rear end every time you drive it that's likely to fail.
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Dec 7, 2017 20:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Disconnect whatever connector supplies voltage to the seat and make sure there's voltage there / it's plugged in properly, but out of everything in that circuit, it's the hot wire that gets flexed by your rear end every time you drive it that's likely to fail.
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Dec 7, 2017 20:30
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CheetoRamen posted:the best I say go for it.
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Dec 7, 2017 20:46
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dreesemonkey posted:Followup - I bought the set of wheels, guy was really cool. Now I need to know where to measure the center bore. On the inside of the wheel there is a beveled area, and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to measure the inside or the outer ring of the bevel. I looked on the rim and there didn't seem to be a measurement other than the rim size 16x6.5  Alright, I painted up my new to me wheels and used the dirty lugs that came with them (waiting for the UPS man). Everything was great, I got my hubcentric rings in the perfect size. Well, until I rotated one of the back wheels. It's JUST rubbing on the strut. God damnit. So now I'm looking at spacers. 1. If I get a thin spacer, is my hubcentric ring going to still work with it? 2. How little of a spacer can I get away with? Would 3mm or 5mm do?
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Dec 7, 2017 23:06
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cigaw posted:Another potentially stupid question: Are extended life engine oils (such as the Mobil 1 Extended Performance) that go up to like 15k/1 year any good? The savings on oil changes are significant but going from a 5k to a 15k interval gives me the willies. I know this has to be paired with an extended performance filter (or regular filter changes). In addition to what's already been said, you also need to check and top off the oil during that interval. The fancier formula isn't doing you any good if you're running lower and lower over that 15K. (Full disclosure: I myself got cocky and didn't check religiously because my engine "never uses oil" over 3K or 6K, only to find it shy of a quart low by 12K thanks to (a) running the same fill for 12K straight, and (b) a valve gasket leak that popped up around 8K. I am a bad man.)
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Dec 8, 2017 00:55
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Thank you all for the replies on the Extended Performance oils. Greatly appreciated!
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Dec 8, 2017 01:36
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A good friend's son got left-turned & the impact popped both airbags on his '99 Accord. Car runs fine, rad support is straight, reported to track & steer straight. Aside from the bags it'll need a fender, hood, headlamp assembly & a bumper cover. My only concern is the airbags. This is my first time dealing with them. The car is a total because of the cost of replacing the airbags. It appears I can score both of them on eBay. There is also a service there that'll reset the SRS module. I will be checking my local yards (in PA & NJ) for parts though I doubt any of 'em will sell me airbags. Is it critcal I use the same SRS module (by part#), since I can probably grab one at a yard? Wouldn't a yard module have to be reprogrammed anyway? Is the eBay-type service the best bet? Any pros/cons/legal issues buying bags out of a used car?
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Dec 8, 2017 02:42
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You can pull the SRS codes on a Honda. I'd pull them and see what needs to be replaced before you go down a frustrating rabbithole.
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Dec 8, 2017 04:08
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Using my (bog-standard $25) reader? What reading I did mentioned only that the SRS throws 'hard' codes, that I can't reset with mine. VVV I'm fixing it for a friend, their money's super-tight. Since it's highly unlikely I'll ever do airbags again, I'll probably send the module off to get reset for $40. As it turns out, I can get the airbags at NJ salvage yards, and have sourced at least four 99 Accord coupes (passenger & driver bags). Need to call for a price. Going to be hardest to find a bumper cover at a yard. Probably wind up getting an aftermarket tupperware on eBay. I have about 5000 of the clips since working on my sister's Fit, then her CR-V. And my niece's Civic... Car's been in the family since new. 2-dr coupe, V6, auto, was in mint condition. Son's getting his doctorate in astrophysics at UNH. Needs a car. Accord was his dad's. Kid's been my son's best friend since age 2. I'm more friends with him & his mom since their divorce about 12-years ago. Dad's a bit of a dick (example: he's a lawyer & could easily step in to help his son, but won't). Meanwhile, mom, who makes less than 1/3 of ex-dick, is accelerating her son's undergrad loan payments by paying $1000/mo for the next two years to try to help him out by the time he defends his doctoral thesis. This means she's living like a bridge troll. So I help 'em out any way I can. Thanks for the advice. VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Dec 9, 2017 |
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Dec 8, 2017 04:58
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You definitely want to use the same airbag module. They changed the airbag setup depending on year and trim. 98-00 got airbags not involved in the Takata recalls, so you'll want to source airbags from those year models. Some models were available with side impact airbags as well. AFAIK, there's no pairing required on any modules except the ECU itself (Honda put the immobilizer in the ECU back then, it's a pain in the dick to swap ECUs unless you get keys with it - in which case you get a locksmith to clone the chip that came with the ECU, but cut the keys to match the originals). Is there any reason to repair this particular car instead of replacing it? 6th gen Accords in particular didn't hold their value very well compared to others, and weren't that great of a car in general (solid engines, and if it's a 5 speed, the gearbox is decent.. the rest is pretty meh, and the automatics were famous for dying early and often). If you want to pull codes from the airbag module, you need a Honda-specific scan tool. They're read via OBD2, they seem to be ~$100 on eBay. Some of them claim to be able to reset the module. I've never used any of those, so I can't vouch for them.
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Dec 8, 2017 08:52
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CheetoRamen posted:My first car, an '05 Ford Fiesta with 150,000km is on the verge of death via leaking head gasket, and price of repairs (and head machining) are out of the question vs the value, even if I could do labour myself. I could do the reasonable thing and buy a quality used 2007 Corolla for $6500AUD and send the Fiesta to a wrecker for $100... but I've noticed something that could be either the best or worst decision of my life. I want you to buy it. I live on $200 p/w expenses just so I can have money to spend on cars. Mmm, Friday night sitting home drinking homebrew and moonshine listening to heartattack and vine reading AI
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Dec 8, 2017 14:30
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Does Carmax tend to decrease the price of their cars over time, if they don't sell? I have my eye on a "new arrival" corvette that is a bit above KBB. Its the start of winter here in Colorado so I'm hoping nobody buys it and they come down in price.
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Dec 8, 2017 16:48
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Even if they do, they'll probably bump it up in the spring when people start eyeballing sports cars.
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Dec 8, 2017 17:28
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Recently had to replace the gas tank on my 1985 Nissan 200SX. Had to find a salvage one since they don't make them anymore. The tank itself seemed to be in pretty good shape for its age, but anyway, I've been having trouble with putting gas in it. Some of the fuel will come back out and spill down the side of the car when I'm pumping, and I can't put much in at a time before the pump will shut off. At most I'm putting a few gallons in before I give up in frustration, and also not wanting to spill anymore gas. This kinda sucks. It's not so bad when I'm just driving to work or not going very far, since it doesn't use too much fuel for that, but if I wanted to go anywhere a decent ways away, I can't fill it up all the way. Clearly, the air/gas fumes that are in the tank aren't venting correctly. The place that put the tank in for me, the owner told me they had to kinda tinker with the sending unit to get it to work, since that's yet another part that's not made anymore. He seems to think that's what's causing it, but I don't see how that could do it, unless that does more than just tell my gauge how much fuel is in there, or unless he meant something other than the sending unit. I don't know how accurate the gas gauge is, given how old everything is down there and also that the gauge never worked from before I even got the car up until the swap out. But if it is, I haven't had more than 3/4s of a tank in it since getting it back, and it's usually sitting around half a tank. Again, not awful for normal driving, but doesn't help me out in the long run. What might be going on here, AI gooners?
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Dec 8, 2017 18:02
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Godholio posted:Even if they do, they'll probably bump it up in the spring when people start eyeballing sports cars. I'm the dummy that will buy a sports car in the middle of a Colorado winter.
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Dec 8, 2017 18:17
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I have a 2005 Acura TL and the front brake rotors are warped, causing it to pulse whenever I brake. I am debating having them replaced even though the service shop says there isn't a safety issue and the brakes have plenty of life left in them. Is it true that there is absolutely nothing wrong with leaving them, even though the pulsing is pretty significant whenever I brake? On a probably unrelated note, I have just replaced the third engine mount on the car at 130k miles - side mount done twice, rear mount done once. For the most recent side mount replacement, they said the holes in the bottom bracket were completely stripped and they had to use a rethreading screw kit to repair it. I have never replaced an engine mount on any other car, including my wife's car, a 2008 Acura TL with similar miles. Can anyone think of why this car chews up engine mounts? The service shop guy didn't seem to think it was that unusual, but it seems weird to me. I live in Nevada so anything rubber in the car fails faster than normal but the other car hasn't had any problems yet. Droo fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Dec 9, 2017 |
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Dec 9, 2017 01:34
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quote is not edit you maroon
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Dec 9, 2017 03:20
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I hope my santee got my box. It was heavy and full of many things. You don't have to post about it if you don't want to, just hope it got delivered okay.
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Dec 9, 2017 04:11
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Droo posted:I have a 2005 Acura TL and the front brake rotors are warped, causing it to pulse whenever I brake. I am debating having them replaced even though the service shop says there isn't a safety issue and the brakes have plenty of life left in them. You can replace just the rotors. It's easy enough to do yourself, too, though if the pads have any wear, you may as well do those at the same time (if DIY, anyway). Did the shop say what brand mounts they were using? It sounds like whoever replaced the side mount the first time may have cross-threaded the bolts, or hulked out on them. Aside from the side mount going twice, I'd say you're doing about average on mounts. Metal Geir Skogul posted:I hope my santee got my box. It was heavy and full of many things. You don't have to post about it if you don't want to, just hope it got delivered okay. He/she would probably be posting in that other stickied thread anyway. 
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Dec 9, 2017 08:00
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Detective Thompson posted:Recently had to replace the gas tank on my 1985 Nissan 200SX. Had to find a salvage one since they don't make them anymore. The tank itself seemed to be in pretty good shape for its age, but anyway, I've been having trouble with putting gas in it. Some of the fuel will come back out and spill down the side of the car when I'm pumping, and I can't put much in at a time before the pump will shut off. At most I'm putting a few gallons in before I give up in frustration, and also not wanting to spill anymore gas. This kinda sucks. It's not so bad when I'm just driving to work or not going very far, since it doesn't use too much fuel for that, but if I wanted to go anywhere a decent ways away, I can't fill it up all the way. Clearly, the air/gas fumes that are in the tank aren't venting correctly. The place that put the tank in for me, the owner told me they had to kinda tinker with the sending unit to get it to work, since that's yet another part that's not made anymore. He seems to think that's what's causing it, but I don't see how that could do it, unless that does more than just tell my gauge how much fuel is in there, or unless he meant something other than the sending unit. I don't know how accurate the gas gauge is, given how old everything is down there and also that the gauge never worked from before I even got the car up until the swap out. But if it is, I haven't had more than 3/4s of a tank in it since getting it back, and it's usually sitting around half a tank. Again, not awful for normal driving, but doesn't help me out in the long run. What might be going on here, AI gooners? Sounds like the breather tube is blocked. I don't know about the 200SX, but it's probably a smaller pipe near the filler tube.
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Dec 9, 2017 12:04
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I have a 1994 Daihatsu Charade G202 (1 litre triple) with a pretty clean and straight body and the other day my friend gave me a 1997 Charade G203 with a terrible body but it has a 1.5 litre inline four that *should bolt straight in*. I've done some minor servicing and stuff on my cars but never attempted anything like an engine swap. I'm looking for information on how to go about organising/managing this project, especially on what not to do. Also, the donor engine has 250,000km on it. Should I rebuild it? What sort of things should I be looking for to know if I should rebuild it or not?
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Dec 9, 2017 12:35
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I have a 2017 Tacoma TRD off road. When braking, the truck has a shudder that shows up as the vehicle goes through 15mph, never higher. It seems to be more in the rear, and not the steering wheel, so I suspect the drums are suspect. However, if that were the case, would I not have a much worse shudder during braking at high speeds?
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Dec 9, 2017 16:47
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid. Yesterday I took it to discount tire to replace one of the flattening tires (I think they rotated and filled them as well). When I'm getting home, as I'm reversing into a parking spot, the car died completely -- all lights/engine/everything just went off (flashers still worked). Absolutely nothing if I turned the key, and I tried to jump it with no success. The battery (the small one by the engine, not the huge hybrid one) is still relatively new so it shouldn't be that. Is it possible that the discount tire people messed something up with the electrical system? Seems unlikely but trying to get a sense of what's up before getting it towed tomorrow.
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Dec 10, 2017 20:53
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I recently purchased a 2016 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab with a 5.3L EcoTec. My understanding is that I should be getting slightly better than 15 mpg if I'm not goosing it, and really closer to 18-20 if it's mostly highway miles. That said, the truck also has 20" wheels and fairly aggressive tired inflated to 35 PSI. I'm currently getting around 14mpg. I'm wondering if there's anything I can/should do to increase mileage or if maybe it's just a normal thing once you add tires and a couple hills? (I'm in Kansas City, it's not THAT hilly.) The only other thing I can think of is that while it has OEM 20" wheels, I don't think the truck left the factory with those, so perhaps the speedometer wasn't recalibrated when the first owner put those on? Going from 17" to 20" would probably make the truck "think" it's going slower and covering less ground? I dunno. Maybe this is all normal. It's certainly not the end of the world, but squeezing a couple more MPG out would be nice. No Butt Stuff fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Dec 11, 2017 |
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Dec 11, 2017 18:04
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I can almost guarantee its the tires. Nobody has the speedo recalibrated when they put big rims and tires on. People also go for the larger, heavier rims and wider, heavier tires. Also if its been leveled. All of these little changes add up. 35 PSI might be a little low for a truck tire as well, check the sidewall. Load range E tires I generally run 60, load D 40.
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Dec 11, 2017 18:23
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Max was 54. I assume I should put some more air in there.
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Dec 11, 2017 18:51
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Neurostorm posted:I have a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid. Yesterday I took it to discount tire to replace one of the flattening tires (I think they rotated and filled them as well). When I'm getting home, as I'm reversing into a parking spot, the car died completely -- all lights/engine/everything just went off (flashers still worked). Absolutely nothing if I turned the key, and I tried to jump it with no success. The battery (the small one by the engine, not the huge hybrid one) is still relatively new so it shouldn't be that. Is it possible that the discount tire people messed something up with the electrical system? Seems unlikely but trying to get a sense of what's up before getting it towed tomorrow. Do you have a spare key? Try that. Sounds almost like an ignition switch kind of problem. Hopefully it's not anything to do with the hybrid system.
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Dec 11, 2017 19:01
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No Butt Stuff posted:Max was 54. I assume I should put some more air in there. No no no, inflate the tire to what it says on the door jamb on the driver's side +/- a few PSI.
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Dec 11, 2017 19:32
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Wrar posted:No no no, inflate the tire to what it says on the door jamb on the driver's side +/- a few PSI. Oh okay. I'll check that tonight. Thanks. Do you think the dealership can easily recalibrate the speedo?
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Dec 11, 2017 19:40
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Wrar posted:No no no, inflate the tire to what it says on the door jamb on the driver's side +/- a few PSI. I would assume that is probably incorrect if the tires on the vehicle have absolutely nothing to do with the tires that were on it when that door jamb sticker was applied.
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Dec 11, 2017 19:43
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I just went and checked. The current tires are 275/55R20, the original tires as listed on the door jamb were 265/65R18. Looks like based on that there's only a 1.1% difference. So maybe it's also me hitting 70-75 on the highway when I'm on it as opposed to cruising at 65? I dunno. I guess I can check the air filter and maybe dump in some fuel injector cleaner?
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Dec 11, 2017 20:02
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The speed could very well be part of it. Trucks aren't the most aerodynamic thing in the world. Are you keeping any significant weight in it? Aggressive tires aren't going to help either, especially if underinflated - you can try the chalk test to find your ideal pressure. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 11, 2017 |
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Dec 11, 2017 20:48
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No Butt Stuff posted:I just went and checked. The current tires are 275/55R20, the original tires as listed on the door jamb were 265/65R18. Looks like based on that there's only a 1.1% difference. So maybe it's also me hitting 70-75 on the highway when I'm on it as opposed to cruising at 65? Try more pressure in the tire and slowing down. Your best MPG is between 45-55mph. I get 15 in my Tundra on a good day running 87 octane. Currently sitting at 12.8 because its full of E85. V8 trucks are going to be somewhere in the mid teens no matter what you do. MPG is also lower in the winter. You may see a couple more in the summer.
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Dec 11, 2017 20:54
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