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If you got a $500 Home Depot gift card, what would you buy?
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Dec 10, 2017 08:03
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A Hitman to kill my wife
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Dec 10, 2017 10:52
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Mitre Saw
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Dec 10, 2017 14:09
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n0tqu1tesane posted:If you got a $500 Home Depot gift card, what would you buy? One of their tool chests. They have pretty good prices on them (Husky and Milwaukee).
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Dec 10, 2017 15:56
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I'd probably just save it to spend on supplies for whatever fix-it jobs need doing. Their prices for most tools I'd be interested in buying are a lot worse than online prices. EDIT: anyone know of a way to detect water / rot inside of walls short of actually tearing the walls open and looking? Having fixed one such instance, I'm now a) paranoid that there may be others, and b) in no interest in doing any more damage to my house than I have to. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Dec 10, 2017 |
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Dec 10, 2017 16:09
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I ended up with DeWalt for the "20v" (it's really 18v, 20 is marketing wank) but if I had to do it over again I'd pony up for Makita (maybe Milwaukee) for the 18v stuff. The run out on the drill in the $200 Amazon gold box deal I picked up a year ago is poo poo. Everything else in said box is pretty good though. The circular saw, impact driver and light are all very useful. I also bought the $200 big impact that I stupidly destroyed a rear subframe stud on my project car. Milwaukee for the 12v stuff all the way. They make the greatest single tool for the DIY garage: a 3/8" power ratchet. Break that SOB bolt/nut with a breaker bar and zip it right off.
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Dec 10, 2017 16:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd probably just save it to spend on supplies for whatever fix-it jobs need doing. Their prices for most tools I'd be interested in buying are a lot worse than online prices. Thermal camera (I think FLIR is having a sale), would a lumber moisture meter work?
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Dec 10, 2017 17:58
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n0tqu1tesane posted:If you got a $500 Home Depot gift card, what would you buy? Clearly depends on what you've already got/what you are interested in doing. An 18v drill/driver combo, circular saw, router, shop vac, kreg pocket jig, random orbit sander, would all be on my list. For yard stuff I like the Ego mower and string trimmers I got there.
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Dec 10, 2017 18:03
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Hubis posted:Thermal camera (I think FLIR is having a sale), would a lumber moisture meter work? Hm, not sure a thermal camera would work for subtle leaks; you'd need to have really significant amounts of water flow for there to be a noticeable temperature gradient, I think. Especially if you want to detect through drywall. Maybe if the front of the stud had completely rotted away, you'd be able to see the lack of a thermal bridge effect (AIUI studs are normally less insulative than the rest of the wall). Problem there is that at least some of my walls are completely devoid of insulation. I do want a thermal imaging camera, though! ...but I'm not seeing a sale, alas. Lumber moisture meter might work, though it'd require opening up the walls enough to get the probes onto the wood. I don't have a good feel for how well moisture moves laterally through wood, either; it's possible you'd have to get the probes onto the front of the stud to detect any moisture, and that means fairly substantial drywall removal. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Dec 10, 2017 18:35
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Hubis posted:Clearly depends on what you've already got/what you are interested in doing. An 18v drill/driver combo, circular saw, router, shop vac, kreg pocket jig, random orbit sander, would all be on my list. For yard stuff I like the Ego mower and string trimmers I got there. Oh, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to spend it on, was more wondering what other people would use it for.
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Dec 10, 2017 21:51
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I'd echo that it wholly depends on what you already have and your needs. However, I just took at blurry shot of the tools that I value the most, which I moved inside from the unheated shop. It should give an idea of what I use for my house in the country side. Basically an assortment of 18v Makita, a good nail gun and a good chain saw. Last project was a garage, wood siding, v-shaped metal roof.
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Dec 10, 2017 22:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:EDIT: anyone know of a way to detect water / rot inside of walls short of actually tearing the walls open and looking? Having fixed one such instance, I'm now a) paranoid that there may be others, and b) in no interest in doing any more damage to my house than I have to.
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Dec 10, 2017 22:44
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Good to know, thanks! I'm probably going to hire a house inspector to give my place a once-over, since it's been 5-6 years since the last inspection and lord knows I'm not observant enough to catch every problem. Maybe they'll have an IR camera.
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Dec 11, 2017 00:44
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Good to know, thanks! That doesn't seem like it would be particularly useful... I mean, are you trying to figure out whether the faucets work and windows open and close? The home inspector I hired was supposed to be pretty good, but he missed all sorts of poo poo that I've found and fixed myself since moving in. Such as evidence of past termites on some of the trim, a completely rotted section of wall from a window sill draining backwards into the window,, blocked air vents for plumbing, lack of a main breaker on the electrical distribution panel, outlets scorched from lovely wiring... All sorts of delightful poo poo. An inspector's utility is to give your a general picture, but if you suspect an issue somewhere, I'd look into hiring a contractor for that specific thing. If you want a general idea of your house, the black and Decker home how to books are really great, especially their home working electrical one, and so is the popular Mechanics complete home how-to.
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Dec 11, 2017 13:09
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OSU_Matthew posted:That doesn't seem like it would be particularly useful... I mean, are you trying to figure out whether the faucets work and windows open and close? Sounds like you got a bad inspector then, reviews notwithstanding. They can be very good or they can just give the place a cursory once-over. What I'm looking for is a fresh set of educated eyes to take a look at everything and let me know what problems I'm overlooking; I don't trust my own eyes to always notice issues because I've seen everything thousands of times so I don't really look at the house any more, not properly. Plus, I'm ad-hoc self-educated, so there's potentially things that I wouldn't notice that are signs of underlying problems.
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Dec 11, 2017 16:25
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Oh, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to spend it on, was more wondering what other people would use it for. For me it would probably go towards a DW375 planar, a Milwaukee 18v Jigsaw, and/or components for a router table + workbench.
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Dec 11, 2017 18:30
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Anybody tried the Walabot detector? Video tests online seem unrealistic (like pipes and wires attached directly to the drywall being scanned through) or show poor quality (blotchy splotches, not easily identifiable pipes etc). There's a 14-day money back guarantee but it would be a Christmas gift that I'd be mailing to someone and if it sucks I don't want them to have to hassle with returning it. https://walabot.com/diy?utm_expid=.rsrOhXxxSpyZvO5pIwGsTw.0&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwalabot.com%2F
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Dec 11, 2017 19:47
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Circular saw question: I am eyeballing a hypoid saw for metal and cement cutting. I like the look of the makita 5377mg, but am concerned about the flammability of the magnesium alloy baseplate when it comes to cutting metal and having hot sparks fly around. Has anyone got one and used it for cutting metal? Can you attest as to whether or not it caught fire?
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Dec 13, 2017 08:33
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Makita would not develop launch and sell a mass-market product that was so flammable it caught fire doing what it was designed to do. Magnesium alloys don't explode like Michael bay film props.
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Dec 13, 2017 11:02
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I bought one of those and boy howdy is it a loving tank. Has not caught fire once would buy again.
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Dec 13, 2017 11:09
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Back in college, I used to do some artistic work with magnesium wire (around 16-18 gauge, IIRC) because it's extremely light. I had a buddy ask me for some scraps, and I saw him later trying to set them on fire and having zero success. Which is good, because if he'd succeeded the dumbass would've hurt his vision. Magnesium has a very high TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 16:51
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Is there any reason you're not looking for purpose built metal cutting circular saw?
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Dec 13, 2017 17:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Back in college, I used to do some artistic work with magnesium wire (around 16-18 gauge, IIRC) because it's extremely light. I had a buddy ask me for some scraps, and I saw him later trying to set them on fire and having zero success. Which is good, because if he'd succeeded the dumbass would've hurt his vision. I remember back from a GBS safe thread 10 years ago that magnesium ribbon was the recommended way to ignite thermite, and even igniting the ribbon was hard to do.
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Dec 13, 2017 19:11
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Depending on the size of the Mg flakes, you can definitely light them with a spark. After all, that's what the camping magnesium firestarters are for. You scrape a little pile of dust/shavings, and then strike some sparks with the flint. The strips (I used to 'borrow' them from Chem lab to take home) require a flame (regular lighter will work) to be held to them for about 5 seconds before they will ignite. Basically, the larger the chunk of the Mg, the larger the thermal mass and the energy required to get it to ignite. Unless you're doing something that shaves a bunch of the saw body into a pile, it's not worth worrying about.
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Dec 13, 2017 19:39
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When magnesium is alloyed with other components it can be significantly less flammable. The old McGuyver trick of taking a bastard file to a road bike to create Thermite is basically a fabrication (although, as mentioned, shaving/grinding it into a fine powder with more reactive surface area does help).
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Dec 13, 2017 21:50
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DreadLlama posted:Circular saw question: I think you're overestimating the danger there. I've got the Dewalt equivalent and have been happy with it.
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Dec 13, 2017 21:59
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DreadLlama posted:Circular saw question: I'm not sure if you can use just any circular saw for cutting metal. AVE uses a Milwaukee metal saw that does not use abrasive wheels and does not burn the metal, I think Milwaukee no longer makes such a saw, AVE also did a video explaining why you can't simply convert a wood miter saw over to metal saw, I think the issue is wood saws need a high RPM motor but a metal saw needs a low RPM and high torque motor. I haven't seen a good video saying why you can or can not put a ferrous metal blade on a circular saw, I also haven't noticed any sort of "don't use on a normal circular saw" warnings on ferrous metal blades. Don't try to grill with Magnesium. Actually, I'm kinda impressed this video exists, the ignition point of Magnesium is 883F (or 443C) but you shouldn't need to heat a grill to more than 600 or 700F during the preheat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp4ucQCjNvU Unrelated question, are Harbor Freight drill bits crap? I bought a 29 piece set since it had every size imaginable in 1/64 in increments for $19.99 thinking surely HF couldn't gently caress up a stick of metal with sharp edges. Thus far, I have managed to snap the 1/8 and 3/64 bits, the 1/8 lasted about 8 holes, and I was trying to drill the last few holes at an angle kinda abusing the bit and I should have know it was going to break. But the 3/64 only lasted 4 holes into a particle board shelf before snapping. Should I simply expect any bit that small to be extra brittle or is a name brand drill bit actually worth more than an HF bit?
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Dec 13, 2017 22:34
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Crotch Fruit posted:Unrelated question, are Harbor Freight drill bits crap? I bought a 29 piece set since it had every size imaginable in 1/64 in increments for $19.99 thinking surely HF couldn't gently caress up a stick of metal with sharp edges. Thus far, I have managed to snap the 1/8 and 3/64 bits, the 1/8 lasted about 8 holes, and I was trying to drill the last few holes at an angle kinda abusing the bit and I should have know it was going to break. But the 3/64 only lasted 4 holes into a particle board shelf before snapping. Should I simply expect any bit that small to be extra brittle or is a name brand drill bit actually worth more than an HF bit? Total crap, except in wood. Even then...
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Dec 13, 2017 23:02
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Crotch Fruit posted:Should I simply expect any bit that small to be extra brittle or is a name brand drill bit actually worth more than an HF bit? Generally speaking, for bits, blades, and abrasives, you get what you pay for. Sure, you can make the cheapos work, but the quality ones work so much better.
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Dec 14, 2017 03:56
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Solid mag in billet or plate form is astonishingly hard to get ignited. Like deliberately set it off with a oxy/acetylene torch levels of hard. Thinner sheet stock is easier, but it's still a LOT of heat to get it going. Once it's lit you're completely hosed and the best solution is to fling it into the yard or run the hell away from the uncontrollable metal fire. Mag shavings are basically the devil in semi-solid flake form, fun when nothing important is nearby, but hell if it suddenly decides that the inside of your CNC mill is the best possible place to ignite.
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Dec 14, 2017 05:04
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I seem to recall hearing that a magnesium fire on a US Navy ship burned through three decks and two buckets of sand before being contained. I would not care to be around a magnesium fire.
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Dec 14, 2017 05:42
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B-Nasty posted:Generally speaking, for bits, blades, and abrasives, you get what you pay for. Sure, you can make the cheapos work, but the quality ones work so much better.  Right now is a good time to buy drill bits due to holiday sales. I picked up a set of Skil drill bits on clearance for 9 bux (originally 21) at Lowe's last night, not too bad considering they come in a nice case too.
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Dec 14, 2017 07:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I seem to recall hearing that a magnesium fire on a US Navy ship burned through three decks and two buckets of sand before being contained. I would not care to be around a magnesium fire. Once they get going they're hellish to put out, it wouldn't shock me to hear something like that happening.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:58
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My understanding is that Magnesium fires are drat near impossible to put out because it burns aggressively enough to strip the oxygen out of basically anything it touches and then use that newly freed oxygen to keep burning. Like a lot of flame retardants used in extinguishers and poo poo still have oxygen in the compound being sprayed, it's just bound up in a form where most things can't rip it out of that compound to use it to keep burning. Magnesium can! I had a high school chemistry teacher tell a story one time about going to a thing that amounted to a research contest where the hosts lit a big pile of magnesium on fire and said "if any of you can put that out using what we've provided here (roughly standard high school chemistry lab grade compounds) we'll make you rich" because flame retardants that can put out Magnesium tend to be really expensive, afaik.
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Dec 14, 2017 21:12
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Magres posted:My understanding is that Magnesium fires are drat near impossible to put out because it burns aggressively enough to strip the oxygen out of basically anything it touches and then use that newly freed oxygen to keep burning. Like a lot of flame retardants used in extinguishers and poo poo still have oxygen in the compound being sprayed, it's just bound up in a form where most things can't rip it out of that compound to use it to keep burning. Magnesium can! Yeah. We have specific extinguishers on the trucks for magnesium. There's rarely enough of them and we just can't dedicate more space because of how rarely we run into metal fires. Usually we end up putting them out by shoveling dirt on them. It eventually goes out after it's done burning even hotter from the moisture in the soil. You can also put it out with lots of water. By lots I mean an inch and a half line flowing 170 GPM is barely enough to put out a single wheel on a car. And boy does it make some noise and pretty colors while you're doing it, since it's stripping O2 out of the water the whole time. The reason you need so much water is because you can't smother it out - you're trying to cool it below ignition temperature while literally feeding it more oxygen, so it takes quite a bit.
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Dec 14, 2017 21:19
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Motronic posted:
Hmmm. Wonder how many mag wheels would be needed for a spectacular cremation, and why has no one thought of this?
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Dec 14, 2017 21:34
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Navy procedures for a Lithium ion battery fire? Get it into a box of dry sand and throw it overboard if it's small, and seal & flood the compartment with water if it isn't. Enough water will strip heat faster than it can be produced. I've done it on a British Navy ship when a bunch of batteries got flooded and started to heat up. Just slide them into a metal pail full of DRY sand, and throw the whole thing over the side... Metal fires are no drat joke.
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Dec 14, 2017 22:50
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sharkytm posted:Navy procedures for a Lithium ion battery fire? Get it into a box of dry sand and throw it overboard if it's small, and seal & flood the compartment with water if it isn't. Enough water will strip heat faster than it can be produced. Current events question: What types of batteries are used on Diesel-Electric Submarines? I assume they're something fairly exotic.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:30
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Hubis posted:Current events question: What types of batteries are used on Diesel-Electric Submarines? I assume they're something fairly exotic. lolno. Lead acid. Like in your car. Same for nuke subs (they need even fewer). And pretty much all navy ships (buddy was a navy sparky). It takes a really, really long time for technologies like that to change in applications like that.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:37
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Hubis posted:Current events question: What types of batteries are used on Diesel-Electric Submarines? I assume they're something fairly exotic. The more modern submarines use a more exotic chemistry, but it's one that's 100% salt-water safe. If the battery bay catches fire, the answer is 'abandon ship', or seal and flood the entire compartment and pray.
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Dec 15, 2017 00:09
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