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WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Arthil posted:

So I picked up some supplies from the game shop by a company named Army Painter. Dunno if they're bad or good, it's what they had in stock. Got a pair of metal clippers, three files, a pin vise plus an extra set of the drill bits which also included some lengths of steel for clipping pins off and finally a mat so I don't make too much of a mess. Both because I didn't want to spend too much all at once and because I wasn't so sure, I didn't pick up any kind of knife but that does lead to a question or two I had.

Some guides I've read/watched say to not use the files on plastic minis, whereas the branding outright mentions plastic and not all guides say it's a bad thing. With the clippers, do I really need the "precision" ones for plastic or will the metal do just as well?

By my own mistake I ended up buying a type of glue that seems labeled as a plastic glue. Should've grabbed the Loctite.

I've never seen anyone say not to use files on plastic minis, it's just going to shred them like very coarse sandpaper and leave a rough surface. If you use it you'll later want to polish with smaller grades.

My third essential tool besides clippers and knife is one of those small 4-surface nail buffers. It's really fast to remove material then polish to a completely smooth finish. I'm thinking about cutting one in half so that it will fit where I'd otherwise need a sanding stick.

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Arthil
Feb 17, 2012

A Beard of Constant Sorrow

Booyah- posted:

I've never seen anyone say not to use files on plastic minis, it's just going to shred them like very coarse sandpaper and leave a rough surface. If you use it you'll later want to polish with smaller grades.

My third essential tool besides clippers and knife is one of those small 4-surface nail buffers. It's really fast to remove material then polish to a completely smooth finish. I'm thinking about cutting one in half so that it will fit where I'd otherwise need a sanding stick.

Ah yeah that's the reason why the person was saying to not use a file. They showed one of those buffers and suggested using it for plastic. Hoping my mini gets here next week, if not the gaming shop has a free class for a couple of hours for painting I might attend to pick up some experience.

Star Man
Jun 1, 2008

There's a star maaaaaan
Over the rainbow

Pyrolocutus posted:

Has anyone used water effects for ice, and if so, what did you do make it "icy" if anything?

Scratch up the surface and try to shape it so that it looks like a solid object rather than a liquid.

Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Finally got around to giving these guys a brushup. Still need to put them all on clear bases and do some script on the purity seals:






Also did a pass on the Centurion Draed:


I'm thinking about using micron pens on the parchment. Should I give them a coat of varnish first? Gloss or matte?

They are a pretty rough around the edges. I did the modelling and base colouring before accepting I needed reading glasses, so there are a lot of places that look terrible close up, that I cant really do anything about :-/
So to add to the usual discussion of expensive scalpels and airbrush setups, let me present the best hobby purchase I have made in years, a set of cheap $1 reading glasses:

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
I might have just gotten a prescription in one of my frames to help with my painting. (I wear glasses and usually have 2 in my current Rx at any time.)

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Arthil posted:

Ah yeah that's the reason why the person was saying to not use a file. They showed one of those buffers and suggested using it for plastic. Hoping my mini gets here next week, if not the gaming shop has a free class for a couple of hours for painting I might attend to pick up some experience.

That's a good idea, I think often they will give you a free mini to work on which is always nice.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Booyah- posted:

My third essential tool besides clippers and knife is one of those small 4-surface nail buffers. It's really fast to remove material then polish to a completely smooth finish. I'm thinking about cutting one in half so that it will fit where I'd otherwise need a sanding stick.
I still have the GW ones they stopped selling because they were useful :argh:

Giant Isopod
Jan 30, 2010

Bathynomus giganteus
Yams Fan
I have space for 3 more bottles of paint in my paint holder. Since realizing this I have become deeply aware of all the missing colors I can't paint that didn't bother me all that much before.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug
Not sure why people are fumbling with air brushes still. Iwata or nothing.

Arthil
Feb 17, 2012

A Beard of Constant Sorrow

Booyah- posted:

That's a good idea, I think often they will give you a free mini to work on which is always nice.

They for sure do. Not sure if we keep them after-the-fact though but hey that's fine. It'll be base coated already, it's more about teaching shadows, light reflections, battle damage and aging along with rusting/weathering of metal, blood splatters, etc.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Philthy posted:

Not sure why people are fumbling with air brushes still. Iwata or nothing.

Iwata is an excellent brand in my experience.

Build quality is really excellent.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Philthy posted:

Not sure why people are fumbling with air brushes still. Iwata or nothing.

This is how I thought till I bought a badger

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth



Iwata? I'd wata not.

PantsOptional
Dec 27, 2012

All I wanna do is make you bounce
I've been having problems with my Liquitex Matte Varnish being glossier than I'd like, and I'm looking to switch brands. Which of the other matte varnishes leaves the dullest coat?

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
Dullcote, for the dullest of cotes.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

dexefiend posted:

Dullcote, for the dullest of cotes.

Agreed.


w00tmonger posted:

This is how I thought till I bought a badger

I have a Patriot. Its great for base coating and varnish. I grab the Iwata for everything else tho.

_Gumby
Sep 14, 2005
Fun Shoe
Does anyone know what technique was used to get this crackle/flaking effect?



Also I got a bottle of AK 'Rust Effect' stuff ages ago (https://ak-interactive.com/product/rust-sreaks/), but it seems to have dried out a bit, is there any way to re-activate it ( with some kind of solvent maybe?), or is it like acrylic where it is basically ruined?

_Gumby fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Dec 11, 2017

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

_Gumby posted:

Does anyone know what technique was used to get this crackle/flaking effect?



That was done by ijyt. He posted about it in this thread, I believe.

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
I'm fairly sure it involved witchcraft. And an inordinate amount of semen.

I was feeling pretty good about my painting straight lines on an Angel of Redemption before I was reminded of the Crusty Knight.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

_Gumby posted:

Does anyone know what technique was used to get this crackle/flaking effect?



Also I got a bottle of AK 'Rust Effect' stuff ages ago (https://ak-interactive.com/product/rust-sreaks/), but it seems to have dried out a bit, is there any way to re-activate it ( with some kind of solvent maybe?), or is it like acrylic where it is basically ruined?

I got the crackling effect by spraying Vallejo model Air paint thinned with flow improver over a layer of Vallejo chipping medium. The surface tension of the paint affects how readily and quickly it cracks, so your mileage may vary.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

is there a black paint anyone would recommend? abaddon black is not serving me well

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Booyah- posted:

is there a black paint anyone would recommend? abaddon black is not serving me well

Do you want really black? Or something that looks more realistically black?

I use Vallejo Black-Grey for most stuff. I'll hit it with a layer of Nuln Oil if I need to be darker or if I want shading.

These guys are the Black-Grey with Nuln Oil. Edging is Administratum Grey.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Really black in this case, to match a black primer and things like that. But I'll check out that black-grey too, for that type of thing I've been using nuln oil over skavenblight dinge and it doesn't work great.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer
I love Vallejo black grey for anything that needs to look black but not necessarily actually be black. I just did some work with scale 75 flat black which is similar. It's a true black I think, but because it's so matte it appears like a really dark grey. I haven't found a true black I really like, abaddon black has so far been the least bad option.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



P3's Thamar Black is a good black-black and their Coal Black is an amazing blueish-black that washes dark well.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Arthil posted:

we probably got some superglue somewhere around here.

Buy fresh superglue.

EAThief
Aug 28, 2006

I swear it's not what you think



Cat Face Joe posted:

Buy fresh superglue.

Do not skip this step

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Cat Face Joe posted:

Buy fresh superglue.
This. Any superglue I have that's older than a few months gets relegated to terrain duties or thrown out.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug
Got a note back from Scale75 saying there is zero alcohol in the medium. However they explained colder temps will cause them to dry much quicker, which it is in Wisconsin and especially in my basement. I don't know the science behind it, but w/e. I understand colder temps are less humid, but I run a humidifier on the furnace.

I'm getting the hang of using them and the matte finish is what I've been wanting for my minis. The colors really pop. They are incredibly hard to use overall. Mostly the thinning and layering. If I'm not careful I can pull previous layers, which makes blending easier, but base coating harder. I think it's all related to just lack of experience with them. They actually dry on my wet palette after a day or so. No other paints I have do this.

I'm also noticing that about a third of my paints are missing a third or more of paint. The rest are full to the brim. Sent another note asking if this is normal or not. The box came sealed in the hard-ish wrap, so it didn't appear to be opened prior.

Guess this all sounds negative, but the colors and finish are amazing.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Philthy posted:

Got a note back from Scale75 saying there is zero alcohol in the medium. However they explained colder temps will cause them to dry much quicker, which it is in Wisconsin and especially in my basement. I don't know the science behind it, but w/e. I understand colder temps are less humid, but I run a humidifier on the furnace.

I'm getting the hang of using them and the matte finish is what I've been wanting for my minis. The colors really pop. They are incredibly hard to use overall. Mostly the thinning and layering. If I'm not careful I can pull previous layers, which makes blending easier, but base coating harder. I think it's all related to just lack of experience with them. They actually dry on my wet palette after a day or so. No other paints I have do this.

I'm also noticing that about a third of my paints are missing a third or more of paint. The rest are full to the brim. Sent another note asking if this is normal or not. The box came sealed in the hard-ish wrap, so it didn't appear to be opened prior.

Guess this all sounds negative, but the colors and finish are amazing.

Did you get both of the paint sets, fantasy and regular? If so which would you recommend?

Felime
Jul 10, 2009

Pierzak posted:

This. Any superglue I have that's older than a few months gets relegated to terrain duties or thrown out.

Seriously. Old super glue takes ages to bond and I generally just toss mine once it starts to go. Life is too short to deal with that BS for a third of a bottle.

Frobbe
Jan 19, 2007

Calm Down

Felime posted:

Seriously. Old super glue takes ages to bond and I generally just toss mine once it starts to go. Life is too short to deal with that BS for a third of a bottle.

This is why I buy those 1gram superglues. I always manage to empty them before they age out or otherwise become useless.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug

Booyah- posted:

Did you get both of the paint sets, fantasy and regular? If so which would you recommend?

Just the regular for now. It appears to have all the odd tints that I like to use. It's more of a palette of tints that you'll find in the middle of a color wheel, where the fantasy set is more vibrant that works along the outer wheel. Ideally I'd like to have both, but I think between the two, the range I'll use the most will be the one I have.

Philthy fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Dec 11, 2017

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Had to buy me some zapagap which I hate because even the small bottles have shittons of liquid. Was told that keeping it cold helps prolong the stuff and so far I've had at least mild success. Been 5 months and the stuff is still in good shape. YMMV.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

DiHK posted:

E: Badger supremacy, and gently caress whomever was having a hard time with their 105.
If I could find a good enough blender, I'd toss my 105 in and put it on YouTube just to bask in the nerdrage.

The worst part is that my Sotar works great. The 105 is a leaky piece of junk that a $25 China-brush puts to shame. Just gotta figure out if my high-roller trigger will fit on my Master and I'll be golden.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Dec 11, 2017

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth

berzerkmonkey posted:

If I could find a good enough blender, I'd toss my 105 in and put it on YouTube just to bask in the nerdrage.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

berzerkmonkey posted:

If I could find a good enough blender, I'd toss my 105 in and put it on YouTube just to bask in the nerdrage.

Airbrush fumes, don't breathe this.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

berzerkmonkey posted:

If I could find a good enough blender, I'd toss my 105 in and put it on YouTube just to bask in the nerdrage.

The worst part is that my Sotar works great. The 105 is a leaky piece of junk that a $25 China-brush puts to shame. Just gotta figure out if my high-roller trigger will fit on my Master and I'll be golden.

Have they not offered a free replacement?

I mean, there's always going to be outliers, such is the nature of manufacturing. But the 105 is widely regarded as an excellent brush and Badger is a good company, I'd be surprised if they didn't try to do right by you.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug

GAME DAY

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berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

bonds0097 posted:

Have they not offered a free replacement?

I mean, there's always going to be outliers, such is the nature of manufacturing. But the 105 is widely regarded as an excellent brush and Badger is a good company, I'd be surprised if they didn't try to do right by you.

I'm just stirring the pot. I'm going to give them a call and see if we can get something sorted out. If not, I'll just bring it to Adepticon and see if they can figure out what's going on there.

In all honesty though, after using both, I haven't found a thing that the $26 Master can't do just as well as the 105. On top of that, it comes with a quick disconnect coupler which is an absolute godsend. And, considering it doesn't constantly leak air or bubble liquid everywhere when I backflow, I'd say the winner is the Master.

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