|
I think it helps that it was the best sculpted out of the bunch. I was really pleased, usually Alanger products are pretty awful. It's good to see old garbage tier Eastern European companies start to put out some really good stuff. New Eastern Express figures are great as well.
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 23:53 |
|
|
I just don't get why Dragon stuff is so overpriced. I noticed one of their earlier Tiger II's in the shop for €80, and right next to it the new Meng Tigger with full interior, etch, indy links and molded on zimmerit for just €75...
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:29
|
|
|
Same reason 30-year old Hasegawa mold reboxed as "special edition" versions are super expensive. Reputation of the name on the box. Edit: should that be mould? I'm not changing it...
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:33
|
|
|
Molentik posted:I just don't get why Dragon stuff is so overpriced. I noticed one of their earlier Tiger II's in the shop for €80, and right next to it the new Meng Tigger with full interior, etch, indy links and molded on zimmerit for just €75... It's expensive to gently caress up instructions to that degree. If you want a Dragon Tiger II, Zvezda repackages it. Costs a lot less, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:46
|
|
|
I'm looking for a nice kit with full interior. I just thought that the prize difference for what you get is insane.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:51
|
|
|
One of the nicest interiors I've built was a Hobby Boss 1:48 scale T-34. Only $18, but it has all the detail of their massive 1:16 kit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:53
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:One of the nicest interiors I've built was a Hobby Boss 1:48 scale T-34. Only $18, but it has all the detail of their massive 1:16 kit. Agreed. That was the first kit I built after getting into the hobby 4 years ago. I had no idea what I was getting into, but even today (it's sitting on my desk in front of me as I type this), I can appreciate all the engineering, fit, and finish of this little dude. The only place I had problems was with the tracks. Not sure why, but using their link and length tracks, I ended up being about a half a link short, so I had to cut one in half and hide it under a road wheel. Otherwise, it was a phenomenal little build. Edit: I just realized I placed my order for this kit - effectively kicking off my modeling obsession - exactly 4 years ago today... almost down to the minute, actually. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
Dragon stuff is overpriced because for a short while they were top of the heap. Late 90's or so, people were getting sick of the same 30 year old Tamiya kits being rereleased annually with a new part or two. Dragon burst on the scene with a lot of fresh new kits, and much better detail than the older Tamiya stuff. People were temporarily dazzled enough to ignore their terrible instructions and overengineered builds. So they could charge what they wanted. These days though people are getting sick of their kits with too many parts, instructions that cram 10 steps into one step, and better and cheaper offerings from companies like Meng, Hobby Boss, Trumpeter, and Takom. They're stillbsticking to their high prices though, and that will bite them in the rear end eventually. That, and the fact they release a billion kits a year doesn't help.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 18:33
|
|
|
There's also AFV Club, Bronco, and ICM Long gone are the days when I'd go to the model kit section of Big W or Kmart and choose between only Tamiya or Revell-Monogram, and tiny Humbrol enamel paint tins. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Dec 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 18:39
|
|
|
I'm building a Bronco Cruiser Mk.III right now, the instruction pages are literally in random order. Page 1 is the first step of the hull, page 2 is the finishing touches of the entire tank. The page numbers are in sequence, so I have to jump around the instructions and guess which step follows which. Just another reminder of how quick and easy this guy was to build. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:They're stillbsticking to their high prices though, and that will bite them in the rear end eventually. That, and the fact they release a billion kits a year doesn't help.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 21:53
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:overengineered builds. don't buy german tank models folks
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 22:13
|
|
|
Gewehr 43 posted:... The only place I had problems was with the tracks. Not sure why, but using their link and length tracks, I ended up being about a half a link short, so I had to cut one in half and hide it under a road wheel. This happens to me every time. It's infuriating. It's not even hard to fix I'll just think I'm doing so well and then 
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 22:14
|
|
|
Mine came together perfectly... until I dropped it and one of the links broke off and flew away into the aether.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 22:46
|
|
|
Raskolnikov38 posted:don't buy german tank models folks True, but Dragon takes it to another level. Where almost any other manufacturer would get away with X number of parts to represent a german tank, Dragon will use twice as many parts. And it'll be a "3-in-1" kit, except they cram everything into one set of instructions, and don't tell you which parts to use for which version.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 00:49
|
|
|
its a pity i'm not literally made out of money because i would love to eventually teach WW2 to students by having them build a german and then a soviet model
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 02:59
|
|
|
Airfix do deals on multiple 1/72 kits for students IIRC.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 04:16
|
|
|
Airfix is trash, though. Just look at the IS-3 group build in this thread.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 06:21
|
|
|
Their Panzer IV and T-34 are decent enough for the scale. Also why would you waste good kits on a class of kids who have never built kits before?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 07:02
|
|
|
to smother wehraboos in the crib
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2017 08:19
|
|
|
Mmm. Silly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2017 06:28
|
|
|
Unkempt posted:Mmm. Silly. http://www.hphmodels.cz/hph/b-36-peacemaker/?lang=en 100 only, get in quick
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2017 09:08
|
|
|
So I've never painted warhams or anything and I got a little D&D figure and realized I'm absolute poo poo at painting figures. Like how the hell do I paint the inside of the cape and poo poo without getting paint on everything else? At least warhams come in pieces you can pre-paint before assembly to get those tricky areas. Any good real 101 level figure painting resources so I can improve from this?  I'm also red-green colour blind so I'm really happy I picked dark green and brown for this guy since I can barely tell them apart
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2017 23:53
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:So I've never painted warhams or anything and I got a little D&D figure and realized I'm absolute poo poo at painting figures. Like how the hell do I paint the inside of the cape and poo poo without getting paint on everything else? At least warhams come in pieces you can pre-paint before assembly to get those tricky areas.  this is the actual mini painting thread) so I'm not gonna tell you to kiss your wallet goodbye since we can't really do worse  1. Thin your paints. It's almost a meme at this point but it does matter a lot. It's OK if you don't get a good coverage from one coat of paint, OTOH if you do it in 2-3 thin coats it's gonna be a lot smoother and more even. 2. If you have trouble reaching into recesses/folds, paint them from inside out - first the bits you have trouble with, then paint the surroundings, including the spots you got paint onto  3. Is that mini metal/plastic, or Reaper Bones? Bones are made of stuff that can react weirdly to paint and are not the best to learn with. (BTW, what flesh paint did you use?) Pierzak fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Dec 10, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 01:37
|
|
|
Gotta disagree on bones not being good to start with; if you're gonna fumble around with learning to paint you may as well start with $2-3 minis. The only caveat is that you need to give bonesium a quick scrub with soap and water; they have some sort of mold release residue that doubles as primer for their own paints, but can cause real primers to rub off. Plus they're cool dudes who provide sculptor credit on the front of each model package.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 01:42
|
|
|
Neurolimal posted:Gotta disagree on bones not being good to start with; if you're gonna fumble around with learning to paint you may as well start with $2-3 minis. (resin is still poo poo  )
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 02:03
|
|
|
I think bones are all right, but easier to start off with more generic plastic or metal as the “rules” are more standard. But if you treat the bones right, there shouldn’t be too much hassle (they have instructions and hints on their forums. Stickied, last I checked). For resources, there is sooooo much out there. YouTube has Sorastro Painting, and his are nice in a bob Ross kind of way. As I’ve gotten older, I find that I paint easier with an optivisor. Makes the details pop out and I can actually see what I’m painting! And good paint brushes. They’ll treat you right if you are kind to them
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 02:15
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I'm also red-green colour blind so I'm really happy I picked dark green and brown for this guy since I can barely tell them apart So old-school BCR is right out, then?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 05:15
|
|
|
Dr. Phildo posted:...
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 07:35
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Welcome tyo mini painting! I've seen your train layout I'm using airbrush paints so they're already pretty thin, took like 7 coats of that drat green to get his stupid cape looking ok. I'm pretty impatient so I did put them on a bit heavy. It's just a cheap plastic D&D figure that came pre-primed which was nice. The face is just some white with a touch of red and brown added. Luckily I'm totally not into figure painting or warhams or anything and I already spent all my money on trains anyways, this guy will probably just be a one off and the only figure I paint for a long while.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 07:40
|
|
|
In some cases Vallejo liquid mask is a godsend. You brush it on, wait 5min and it forms a rubbery protective coating. When done you can just rub it off.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 09:45
|
|
|
Oh god I don't know if it's getting better or worse. He's supposed to have a lovely beard...   My inspiration is rickety cricket but I just don't know if it's remotely within my skill level to do anything remotely like this.  This tutorial gives fantastic results but warham heads seem almost 50% bigger than what I'm dealing with, and mine can't detach. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk7cLxTAtJ8 Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Dec 10, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 09:54
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:
...well, he doesn't look not hideously disfigured? I dunno, I can't do little mans at all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 15:19
|
|
|
A nice cheat for bringing out details is to pick up some inks or washes, and just slather it over the figure and let gravity do its job. It's what people who run those tabletop armies with tens of grunt fodder do.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2017 15:47
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I'm also red-green colour blind so I'm really happy I picked dark green and brown for this guy since I can barely tell them apart I am not joking, it's what my friend Vinny does.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2017 01:59
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Learn to tell the colours apart by taste. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium_Girls
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2017 14:38
|
|
|
lol if you cant tell Mr Color paints apart by taste
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2017 23:05
|
|
|
You must sacrifice for your art.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2017 23:15
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Learn to tell the colours apart by taste. https://youtu.be/iDBBuB8L2oY
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2017 04:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 23:53 |
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Learn to tell the colours apart by taste. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2017 05:51
|
|
