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Neat idea to use the rubber o-rings as a friction drive. I'll bet that's like a hundred times quieter than a geartrain.
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Dec 8, 2017 05:16
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Sagebrush posted:Neat idea to use the rubber o-rings as a friction drive. I'll bet that's like a hundred times quieter than a geartrain. Truth be told I couldn't work out first principle planetary gear drives from first principles while stoned and sleep deprived
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Dec 8, 2017 05:18
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Well, I really, really like the results when the PETG prints well. But if there is any bit of plastic on the nozzle, any plastic that then comes out of the nozzle can catch on it and start balling up. And I can't keep it from oozing, it oozes when the extruder is just sitting there, it stops oozing only when I drop the temp down to 215C. So it makes it really hard to print with PLA; when it's just printing the model part with PETG, and continuously laying plastic, it works alright, but the moment it switches to do supports with PLA, the PETG extruder starts to ooze. Then it's just a matter of time before the print fails.
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Dec 9, 2017 02:01
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Listerine posted:Well, I really, really like the results when the PETG prints well. But if there is any bit of plastic on the nozzle, any plastic that then comes out of the nozzle can catch on it and start balling up. And I can't keep it from oozing, it oozes when the extruder is just sitting there, it stops oozing only when I drop the temp down to 215C. So it makes it really hard to print with PLA; when it's just printing the model part with PETG, and continuously laying plastic, it works alright, but the moment it switches to do supports with PLA, the PETG extruder starts to ooze. Then it's just a matter of time before the print fails. Unrelated to this but is your av text about the postmodern Chicago architecture group in the 70s?
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Dec 9, 2017 22:27
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Mofabio posted:Unrelated to this but is your av text about the postmodern Chicago architecture group in the 70s? Nope, my avatar is an image I did for an exquisite corpse activity I did here on the forums maybe ten years ago.
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Dec 10, 2017 22:38
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I'm doing a 30cm long wall st bull for an Xmas present. It's taking for-ev-ev-ever because 0.3 resolution and tree supports.  I'm going to sand it down and buy some bronze corrosives spray paint so that it looks like the real thing
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Dec 11, 2017 01:34
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In the process of 3D printing stuff I'm finding that I need a lot of M3/M3.5/M4 machine screws of varying lengths along with nuts and small self tapping screws to hold things together. Does anybody know of anywhere that sells decent useful selection boxes of both of the above?. I'm in the UK, so UK based or Chinese places are going to work best for me.
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Dec 12, 2017 00:05
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I've never seen an M3.5 screw. That's a weird one. For M3 and M4 I bought a big sack of like 200 Mwhatever x 30mm long socket head screws from Amazon and then I cut them shorter with a hacksaw when need one. If you thread a nut on first, you can chase the threads with it after cutting by screwing it off. I do it this fairly insane way because I'm cheap.
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Dec 12, 2017 00:39
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I'm heartbroken chaps Just had a min temp error 35 hours into a 39 hour print. And now I need to replace the heater cartridge ( and hopefully just that)
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Dec 12, 2017 00:42
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Sagebrush posted:I've never seen an M3.5 screw. That's a weird one. A lot of wire strippers have holes around the hinge for shearing small screws. They work very well. Electricians use them for shortening wall plate screws and such.  Hey it’s even got m2.5 and 3.5. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 01:06
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eddiewalker posted:A lot of wire strippers have holes around the hinge for shearing small screws. They work very well. Electricians use them for shortening wall plate screws and such.  I never noticed this. Mine are probably too cheap to have those though, I should check them.
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Dec 12, 2017 02:42
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Oh poo poo, is THAT what those holes are for?
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Dec 12, 2017 03:11
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eddiewalker posted:A lot of wire strippers have holes around the hinge for shearing small screws. They work very well. Electricians use them for shortening wall plate screws and such. Pro-tip: Put a nut on before you cut it with these(or really anything).
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Dec 12, 2017 03:23
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More pro tip. If you thread it in from the threaded side through the cutting hole it cleans the threads when you unscrew it.
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Dec 12, 2017 03:30
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I can't remember who asked me to post about trying PLA with PETG, but after fiddling around a bit I've had better success using PETG for the support material and PLA for the model itself.  I tried printing this weird object to see how it did with an organic shape with overhang and supports between different bits. A blob of PETG on the corner of the prime pillar caused the hot end to drag and dislodge the prime pillar itself, so I stopped the print, but otherwise everything was working out well. The PLA prints fine on the PETG, and the two plastics separate well. As for the blob, my printer is extruding too much plastic at the start of a loop. It happens randomly- not at the start of every loop. I don't have it set to do that anywhere and can't figure out why it's happening now, and it seems like too much for simply moving filament back after a retraction.
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Dec 12, 2017 04:59
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helno posted:More pro tip. If you thread it in from the threaded side through the cutting hole it cleans the threads when you unscrew it. One of the sides is threaded?!?  
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Dec 12, 2017 06:04
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Anet a4 delta is 180 on gearbest. Tempted
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Dec 12, 2017 07:19
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How hot can PLA and ABS get before they start having structural problems? I've got access to a few printers and I wanna start making stuff for the cab of my car. Trouble is, I live in Orlando; I've seen 150F on a vent thermometer on hot days where the heat builds up. The big fancy printer at my school uses ABS which I'm sure is the better choice, but it's in an engineering lab/makerspace so the queue tends to be days, sometimes weeks long. My buddy has an Anet A8 that prints PLA so that's my backup plan.
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Dec 12, 2017 11:28
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Tomarse posted:In the process of 3D printing stuff I'm finding that I need a lot of M3/M3.5/M4 machine screws of varying lengths along with nuts and small self tapping screws to hold things together. Toolstation. I believe they also sell the janky pre-weakened snap-off bolts that you can easily shorten
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Dec 12, 2017 11:47
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Hey guys, I'm having to update my firmware to change the thermistor settings. This is my first dive into firmware of any sort and I'm a little overwhelmed. I get that I need copy my printers settings into the Arduino IDE , then alter them as needed and flash the new firmware. I think Marlin firmware already has a preconfigured CR10 profile that should be easy enough to alter and then flash but I can't open it in the Arduino IDE. Can someone point me to the most hand holding guide for altering firmware. I had a look at Tom Sanlander's video and it was still a little above me(as I said, first firmware dive) Thankyou kind goons  Edit: pounding my head here but I've sort of internalized the firmware as similar to an .ini file I realised I can copy paste from wordpad to the IDE so I'm a stupid dumb head Thanks guys for reading. I need to flash a bootloader to my printer so getting my hands on an Arduino Uno stat. Jestery fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 13:47
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Mister Sinewave posted:One of the sides is threaded?!? LOL. Today is your Menthos and Diet Coke day. Yes, one side is threaded. Thread the bolt into that side first, and keep going through the unthreaded side until the length you want is in the middle. Snap the bolt off, and as you unscrew it, the threads will get reformed. Enjoy! As for hardware, I wanted quality stuff, not Chinese garbage, so I ordered a bunch of sizes and lengths from McMaster Carr here in the US. Dunno if you have something comparable, but an industrial supply company is what you're looking for.
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Dec 12, 2017 14:25
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Jestery posted:Can someone point me to the most hand holding guide for altering firmware. The most important thing you want to do is grab the settings from the current firmware. I think the g-code is M503. Run that cmd on the existing firmware and save the output somewhere because the steps/mm is prob the #1 important value to plug into the marlin Configuration.h
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Dec 12, 2017 14:58
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Enourmo posted:How hot can PLA and ABS get before they start having structural problems? I've got access to a few printers and I wanna start making stuff for the cab of my car. Trouble is, I live in Orlando; I've seen 150F on a vent thermometer on hot days where the heat builds up. I have printed a dashcam mount and a novelty shift knob out of PLA and had them in my car for a few months. Both are significantly warped now. Not sure if any of the treating techniques would have changed that, but my experience so far says PLA is not great for automotive use. I do have a black car though so I have sort of a worst case scenario.
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Dec 12, 2017 15:41
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Yeah you can bend PLA like spaghetti after putting it in hot water. It sticks to a bed at like 50C. PETG and ABS should be fine though.
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Dec 12, 2017 15:55
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I had an ABS shift knob in my VW bus (so, no AC) in Phoenix (so, hot) for two years and it held up just fine. PLA isn't appropriate for cars. I also printed ABS dash cam window mounts, one in regular black ABS and one in "conductive" (ie: graphite impregnated) ABS. The "conductive" ABS held up better in the sun, but that may be due to how I parked and how one was a rear and one was a front das cam.
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Dec 12, 2017 16:24
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The plastic trim pieces in your car are typically abs.
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Dec 12, 2017 18:12
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sharkytm posted:LOL. Today is your Menthos and Diet Coke day. Yes, one side is threaded. Thread the bolt into that side first, and keep going through the unthreaded side until the length you want is in the middle. Snap the bolt off, and as you unscrew it, the threads will get reformed. Enjoy! Holy poo poo i was about to buy some of those auto adjusting strippers but maybe I should just upgrade my normal strippers instead My current pair just has holes for stripping smaller and larger wires than the teeth can handle
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Dec 12, 2017 20:16
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Enourmo posted:How hot can PLA and ABS get before they start having structural problems? I've got access to a few printers and I wanna start making stuff for the cab of my car. Trouble is, I live in Orlando; I've seen 150F on a vent thermometer on hot days where the heat builds up. peepsalot posted:Don't leave your PLA printed parts in the car
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Dec 12, 2017 20:20
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peepsalot posted:Don't leave your PLA printed parts in the car  lmaooooooooooooo
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Dec 12, 2017 20:54
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It works just fine, but it prints everything in italics.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:16
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Is the Prusa i3 mk2s a solid choice for someones first 3d printer? Playing the litecoin game has made me enough to basically get the mk2s or if I hold off another day or two probably enough for the mk3 for essentially free.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:48
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mattfl posted:Is the Prusa i3 mk2s a solid choice for someones first 3d printer? Playing the litecoin game has made me enough to basically get the mk2s or if I hold off another day or two probably enough for the mk3 for essentially free. mk2s = Yes mk3 = Yes
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Dec 12, 2017 22:00
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Yes and it's what I was going to originally buy. If you're looking for something cheaper, I went with the CR-10 to start our due to it's low entry price. We've ran it ~ 10-15 hours a day for the last two weeks printing xmas related stuff and it's been overall solid. I'll probably order a MK3 once the backlog of orders clears out.
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Dec 12, 2017 22:01
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Awesome, thanks guys!
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Dec 12, 2017 22:04
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Yeah, I'm ordering the Mk3 to supplement my monoprice maker ultimate. And the multi material upgrade.
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Dec 13, 2017 00:33
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, I'm ordering the Mk3 to supplement my monoprice maker ultimate. And the multi material upgrade. I have been waiting for feedback on material usage before placing my order and after this came out, I don't think I'm ready to pull the trigger yet. The pure waste ratio is just beyond excessive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnOWX4Ujtv8&t=656s
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Dec 13, 2017 01:15
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the spyder posted:I have been waiting for feedback on material usage before placing my order and after this came out, I don't think I'm ready to pull the trigger yet. The pure waste ratio is just beyond excessive. They're working on making the material change happen during infill (obviously not for support material) so that should cut down on waste.
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Dec 13, 2017 03:12
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mewse posted:The most important thing you want to do is grab the settings from the current firmware. I think the g-code is M503. Roger that, waiting on an Arduino clone
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Dec 13, 2017 05:21
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the spyder posted:I have been waiting for feedback on material usage before placing my order and after this came out, I don't think I'm ready to pull the trigger yet. The pure waste ratio is just beyond excessive. Yeah... that's an issue. The cost of filament isn't nothing, and the waste is concerning.
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Dec 13, 2017 05:26
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I still love Proto-pasta Stardust.  
Megabound fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 13:07
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