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What kind of car?
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Dec 17, 2017 03:41
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2006 Mitsubishi evo 9
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Dec 17, 2017 03:49
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My car is a 2010 RAV4 Sport V6, just hit 100k on the odometer My front right wheel was making some rotational noise so I took it in, figured it was the wheel bearing. Shop took a look and quoted me for: * Replace both front wheel bearings, $1600 * Replace lower control arm (control arm bushings worn/loose) $1800 * Replace front struts & insulators (insulators are torn, struts fills weak) $1600 * Replace water pump (leaking) $780 I was thinking about getting a new car, went and test drove a bunch today but didn't really find anything I really liked. The RAV4 has been great, love the size and the V6. I don't put a lot of miles on it so the lackluster gas mileage hasn't been a big deal. What do you guys think?
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Dec 17, 2017 04:33
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JFC those prices!
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Dec 17, 2017 04:36
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Those prices are really high and I would shop around. Or just replace the front hub thats grinding for $125 using an skf hub assembly from rock auto. Out of curiosity are those toyota dealer prices?
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Dec 17, 2017 04:37
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ROFLburger posted:timing belt skipped, have a question You may be able to get away with a new belt and compression/leakdown test since it wasn't spinning that fast when it skipped but no guarantees. You could try retiming using the existing belt first to test it and if it works then get a new belt so you aren't out any money if a valve is hosed. I'm also not an expert and none of my cars are interference or even close to that new so keep that in mind. Also further update on the Turismo if anyone cares, the steering rack is in and I patched the exhaust so after I fix the carb it'll be drivable, maybe not road worthy but drivable. Also I thought the previous owner took out the cat internals, nope they were deposited in the muffler for safe keeping. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 05:21
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wesleywillis posted:
Actually it's almost certainly dead simple. Maybe a couple of screws for the plastic cover, probably just "snap-tite" construction. The switch is probably attached with ~4 screws plus the plug.
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Dec 17, 2017 06:47
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fletcher posted:My car is a 2010 RAV4 Sport V6, just hit 100k on the odometer Did you, by chance, gently caress the shop owner's daughter in the rear end on the first date and never call her again? Tell them they're full of poo poo and not to touch anything. Get the wheel bearing done elsewhere, by a shop that isn't trying to buy a new boat for every employee. FWIW, my mother had both lower control arms replaced, AND the front struts, strut mounts, etc, for less than what they're quoting you for wheel bearings alone, by a shop that specializes in Toyota and Honda. The struts they used were OEM (which is KYB). Find a locally owned shop, preferably one that specializes in Japanese imports. They'll be a little more expensive than the shops that just slap parts on, but they know their poo poo, and usually won't try to rip you off. Check yelp for the ones that average 4+ stars (the one my mother used has a solid 5 star rating on Yelp, and I've known the owner for 20 years). ROFLburger posted:timing belt skipped, have a question A borescope would be your best bet. Remove the spark plugs, insert camera, look for signs of impact on the pistons. Unfortunately, it is an interference engine, but the compression is only 8.8:1, so you may have gotten lucky. New timing kit and passing compression + leakdown would also be a good way to check, but a borescope is less work (in case you wind up having to pull the head), and pretty cheap. Harbor Freight has them, Amazon has them too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 08:20
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fletcher posted:My car is a 2010 RAV4 Sport V6, just hit 100k on the odometer The RAV4 V6 is one of the fastest toyotas. Seriously 269hp and AWD? O I I'm going to buy a used one since they don't make them with the V6 anymore. SO: what you need is a second opinion. Don't pre-sell yourself to the shop. Just go in and say it's making a noise. It might not even be a wheel bearing - it could just be the brake dust shield scraping the rotor! Both wheel bearings being bad at the same time seems far fetched to me. There are independent mechanics in some towns that specialize specifically in Toyotas or imports. There's one in my city (colorado springs) called Toy Tech. Try one of those. Control arm bushings are one of those things mechanics get you with. EVERY single control arm bushing will appear all cracked up when the car is on the lift, no weight on the wheels. They are made of rubber. Are they ACTUALLY torn? There's gotta be a really obviously visible cut in the rubber. Does the wheel have play because of it? Is it affecting the alignment? Doubt it!
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Dec 17, 2017 17:08
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Spazz posted:I picked up a dash camera and I want to wire it in directly to free up my cigarette lighter and also make use of the power meter that shuts off if the battery voltage is low. I was talking to someone at a shop and they said that using a fuse tap is a bad idea. I was told I have two options - wiring into the ignition switch under the dash or directly to the battery. The Ranger interior is hilariously easy to disassemble, so there's that. I cut and spliced the wires leading up to one of the power points on my '98 so that I could a) convert it to being triggered by a relay using the head unit amp power on signal instead of always on, and b) hard wire in a phone charger and dashcam power. There's tons of room to do the job right with some nice heatshrink butt crimps. Otherwise, the add-a-circuit bits that plug in place of a fuse are perfectly fine.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:17
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Geoj posted:They might have been thinking "fuse tap" would mean wrapping a bare wire around a leg of the fuse. If you use an add a circuit you retain the fuse you're tapping the power from and the device being powered is also fused. Really can't think of any reason to not do it this way unless the device needs more power than you'd usually run through the in cabin fuse box. 0toShifty posted:Agreeing with this. The best advantage of the add a circuit is that you're not modifying or cutting factory wiring. That was my thought too - it sounded incredibly risky (to me) to cut into the ignition power line like that. At least if something is wrong I can pop the circuit out and not have to take apart and splice wiring to undo my work. I'd almost rather run it right off the battery and run the line through the firewall under the dash. I just need to find the circuit adapters for my car - AutoZone didn't have the mini ones for my truck. Thanks again. You all are always so kind when I ask stupid questions.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:17
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Godholio posted:Actually it's almost certainly dead simple. Maybe a couple of screws for the plastic cover, probably just "snap-tite" construction. The switch is probably attached with ~4 screws plus the plug. I hope thats all it is, though I did replace the motor anyway. There appeared to be no relay for the wipers. I also checked on some Toyota forums, and a few people have had to replaced the motor, but not the switch. Also, I got my brother to pick up a new motor at the junkyard the other day, (and deliver it to my job site) and he didn't even take money for it. Said it was my birthday present. Hell yeah! Thanks bro! Now, I guess we'll see if the problem persists......
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Dec 17, 2017 22:21
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Two things. A: Mediocre Chinese borescopes have never been cheaper. They’re almost disposable, now. B: Interference engines designed and produced with a wear-item timing belt should be a mandatory death sentence for the powertrain engineers.
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Dec 18, 2017 00:47
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I drive a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, and it's been pretty solid so far. Recently I noticed that my steering was getting a bit rough at times, so I checked the power steering reservoir. It was kind of low, so I bought a bottle of Lucas Power Steering fluid, and added that in. Seemed to work okay, but then it started acting like I had no power steering at all - super hard to turn the wheel. I checked again, and it appeared that *all* my fluid was gone. Topped up again with the remainder of the Lucas, and within 10 minutes of driving, I'd lost all power steering again. Upon the recommendation of a mechanic friend, I added some Stop Leak, also by Lucas. It is still vomiting everything out. My friend told me it's the pump, and is ordering one for me. Could it be something else as well? It leaks constantly now, and I really need my car. Am I going to break it worse if I drive it? Apart from being a drat workout to turn corners, it's drivable. Doesn't seem to be a problem to drive the freeway, changing lanes is no issue. Have I used the wrong products? Did I screw up by putting in fluid? I can't help but feel that if I'd left it alone, I wouldn't have to fight the car to make 90° turns.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:37
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Where is it vomiting out of?
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Dec 18, 2017 01:46
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As near as I can tell, it lines up with the reservoir. As it is now after dark, I can't really check to be more specific right now - I'm moving house and everything is boxed up.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:48
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TwystNeko posted:I drive a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, and it's been pretty solid so far. Recently I noticed that my steering was getting a bit rough at times, so I checked the power steering reservoir. It was kind of low, so I bought a bottle of Lucas Power Steering fluid, and added that in. Seemed to work okay, but then it started acting like I had no power steering at all - super hard to turn the wheel. I checked again, and it appeared that *all* my fluid was gone. Topped up again with the remainder of the Lucas, and within 10 minutes of driving, I'd lost all power steering again. Stop Leak will help with pinhole leaks and worn seals, but if you've got a broken hose or connector or other major failure it's not going to do anything. You did nothing wrong, there's just something significant broken that needs to get fixed.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:49
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Am I going to make things worse if I keep driving? If it just means I have to fight the car, Ill have to deal with it. This comes at the worst possible time, and I kind of need transportation. Public transit isn't really an option.
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Dec 18, 2017 04:04
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I wouldn't advise driving it without fluid for long as you may kill the power steering pump/sieze it if it is that bad. However I believe the Tucsons of that year have a dedicated power steering pump belt, and removing it would allow you to drive around with unassisted steering pretty harmlessly if you're comfortable with such a thing until you can get it fixed. Also seconding stop leak is fine for tiny leaks, just don't dump a bunch in there and it's pretty harmless. Large amounts of it can gum up pumps and coat the inside of coolers making them not work as well but I doubt you put that much in. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Dec 18, 2017 |
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Dec 18, 2017 04:29
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Well, I managed to drag a floor lamp out to the car, and while I can see a puddle under the car, I can't find an obvious source of the leak. I put more fluid in, and it was slowly draining out. As soon as I started the car, it was gone, but the puddle was no bigger. Cranking the wheel back and forth, it seems to kick in intermittently. I'm not sure what else there is that I can do. Part of the problem is theres a lot of spilled fluid from me fumbling earlier. I'm going to take it to a wand wash, and try and clean it out, then see if I can spot a fresh leak.
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Dec 18, 2017 05:47
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When a steering system is dry for any reason they will suck a lot of fluid before the reservoir starts holding anything while it's running.
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Dec 18, 2017 06:30
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Hello, I have a (very) stupid question. My boyfriend hit a pothole this morning and dented one of his wheels (I wasn't there so I haven't seen it), resulting in a flat. Unfortunately since it's alloy and not steel I can't just hammer it back into shape, so we've gotta get a replacement. I want to go to a u-pull it salvage yard, but I don't know whether I can get any 17" alloy wheel or if I need one from his make & model (2007 Mazda 6). HA;LP 
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Dec 18, 2017 17:00
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Britt Burns posted:Hello, I have a (very) stupid question. My boyfriend hit a pothole this morning and dented one of his wheels (I wasn't there so I haven't seen it), resulting in a flat. Unfortunately since it's alloy and not steel I can't just hammer it back into shape, so we've gotta get a replacement. I want to go to a u-pull it salvage yard, but I don't know whether I can get any 17" alloy wheel or if I need one from his make & model (2007 Mazda 6). HA;LP You need one with the same specs - bolt pattern, offset, wheel width, etc. It appears to be a 17” wheel, 7” width, 60mm offset, 114.3 bolt pattern BUT double check the current wheel.
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Dec 18, 2017 17:21
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:You need one with the same specs - bolt pattern, offset, wheel width, etc. Thank you!! Is there a website where I can search out which cars have wheels with those specs?
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Dec 18, 2017 17:38
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Britt Burns posted:Thank you!! Is there a website where I can search out which cars have wheels with those specs? What's wrong with searching for a similar year Mazda 6 so the wheel will match the others? You can probably call the lots and ask. They should know their inventory.
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Dec 18, 2017 17:42
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Britt Burns posted:Thank you!! Is there a website where I can search out which cars have wheels with those specs? Car-part.com
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Dec 18, 2017 17:47
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Is there a site with long-term reliability reports for cars by trim (or at least by drivetrain?) It seems like a lot of “long term reliability” is 3 years, which is less than helpful when the newest car I’m looking at is from 2010. Dashboard-Light has failures by year and average mileage and everything, but it just has it for the entire model, not manual vs automatic, I4 vs V6, or most importantly for me:hybrid. I think Consumer Reports might do that, but I don’t have a membership.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there a site with long-term reliability reports for cars by trim (or at least by drivetrain?) Best thing I know of: https://www.edmunds.com/tco.html Consumer Reports sucks anyway.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:49
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I don't think any particular site does a great job for older cars, especially if you want drivetrain specific info. I've found the best way to get information about a model is to go to the model's specific forum (or even reddit) and see what people are complaining about. The less reliable models will generally have more/worse problems posted although this is quite time consuming if you don't know what you want.
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Dec 19, 2017 03:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:$Texas. Thank you! Grand total: - Koni FSD set, $580 - Strut mounts & bearings, $50 x 2 (old bearings were busted and held together by hopes & dreams) - Labor, $430 The front right strut had been completely blown. That would explain that side's tendency to bottom out easily. Handling certainly feels better. New question! With the new shocks, now there are squeaking/clunking noises at low speeds going over bumps, seemingly from all 4 wheels. This is described on the internets as a sway bar bushings problem, but the shop guys said they removed the sway bar and the noise was still there when they drove it, so they were mystified (maybe they only removed one of the sway bars and they both produce this sound though?) I think the sound had been there before but very much less pronounced. Everything feels solid so I'm not concerned, but it would be nice to get rid of the noise. Any ideas where it's from?
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Dec 19, 2017 06:05
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Does it make any noise if you push down on it and let it bounce back up? My first thought is that something wasn't tightened.
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Dec 19, 2017 06:29
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I'm going through the same thing. Front all replaced by me (nearly everything - didn't do idler arm/draglink or coil rubber mounts), rear (as needed - not everything) replaced by a shop. The rear is squeaky as, though they didn't do the rear shocks (I think they were OK IMO), but it didn't squeak before. (E: just realised that's probably the new RTAB urethane kmacs  but anyway, the front right knock still bothers me)The front right has a knock when hitting bumps, it's always had this and it stayed even after I replaced struts, control arms, swaybar links and tie rods. Doesn't knock when I'm bouncing it up and down on the spot and I can't feel anything loose, but a definite knock when hitting a bump in the road. Like you I assumed sway bar bushes, but I never replaced mine because mine look fine - no wear visible almost look newish. Have a look at yours, they are very easy to inpect. Best guess for mine is either strut collar or top strut mount maybe or the rubber coil spring mounts (which I didn't replace because I couldn't get them in time) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 06:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there a site with long-term reliability reports for cars by trim (or at least by drivetrain?) TrueDelta is decent for this.
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Dec 19, 2017 08:08
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Deteriorata posted:What's wrong with searching for a similar year Mazda 6 so the wheel will match the others? You can probably call the lots and ask. They should know their inventory. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Car-part.com Thanks for all of the help, guys! It turns out that the u-pull-it I was looking at was much farther away than I thought it was (  ); thankfully, my dad reminded me of a closer salvage lot that I could try. I called them yesterday, and they had several wheels that would work! I went there this morning and left with a wheel from a Mazda3 and a new (to me) tire to the tune of $75, all balanced and fancy-like. I'm thrilled with how it ended up, and I'll definitely check with them first next time I need something 
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Dec 19, 2017 16:48
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I slid into a curb today while going around a roundabout due to snow/ice. Wasn't going terribly fast but my right front wheel hit the highest part of the curb basically right on the wheel's side. Noticed a pull to the right immediately, and there's a rhythmic low pitched sort of hum-hum-hum while driving which gets faster as roadspeed increases. Booked an alignment for tomorrow morning - hopefully it's nothing more serious?
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Dec 19, 2017 21:53
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That kind of impact could have damaged the wheel bearing. Does the pulsing hum get worse if you turn in one direction and decrease when you turn in the opposite direction?
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Dec 19, 2017 21:59
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I didn't notice a change in it, but also didn't drive more than a few blocks before taking the car home and parking it
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Dec 19, 2017 22:06
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Easily could have bent a tie rod or something, I'd tell the shop what happened and let them diagnose. If you just ask for an alignment, and they do that but there's other damage, you may have to pay for them to do another alignment after the repairs.
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Dec 19, 2017 22:36
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Also does the car track more or less straight, can you feel the steering wheel pulsing in time with the noise and/or does the steering wheel try to pull one way or the other?
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Dec 19, 2017 22:53
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1988 Ford F150 oil leak update: I think I fixed my leak! I replaced the oil pan gasket and used a shitload more RTV than needed, but I just drove it around my neighborhood for 10 minutes and when I checked underneath when I got home, there wasn't even so much as a drop! It's a Christmas miracle! It's still not 100% yet though. I had to cut my stress test short because it dies when idling now. I noticed while messing around right above the distributor cap that one of the plug wires wasn't on right, so I pushed it back on but it wouldn't stay on. So I pulled the rubber boot off, bent around on the connector and put the boot back on, but it still wasn't making a solid connection. I got a new set of cables, but haven't put them on yet. Oh, and the exhaust leaks like crazy where the pipes fit against the manifolds because the sliding flanges are all bent to poo poo. I need to order some split flanges and cut off the old ones. Thanks to everyone that helped me with my oil leak. My truck better run like a unicorn after all the work I've put into it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 23:22
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