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I'm gluing down an EPDM rubber roof. The old roof was hot tar. I stripped it off, and there is quite a bit of tar left on the floor boards. EPDM and tar do not work together. I need an underlayment. 1/4" plywood is easy enough, but I'd like it to be even easier. I'm not sure if a nailed down synthetic roofing fabric will be strong enough to glue to the rubber to? Any ideas?
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Dec 16, 2017 20:20
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FogHelmut posted:I'm gluing down an EPDM rubber roof. The old roof was hot tar. I stripped it off, and there is quite a bit of tar left on the floor boards. EPDM and tar do not work together. I typically see 3/4"-1" Styrofoam insulation panels nailed to the decking with the foil side up on EPDM. it's simple, but it ain't cheap.
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Dec 17, 2017 04:35
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I ended up just getting the plywood. It's on top of 1x6s so whatever, I just need a barrier. There was a bad termite infestation here sometime in the past. The two close boards were hollow. The far ones were just cracked, probably from the years? of leaks. I already replaced these today.
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Dec 17, 2017 05:29
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My electrical panel is a Cutler-Hammer. Can anyone tell me if any of the other brands of breakers will work in it, or am I locked in to finding a Cutler-Hammer branded one?
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Dec 17, 2017 17:47
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Ghostnuke posted:My electrical panel is a Cutler-Hammer. Can anyone tell me if any of the other brands of breakers will work in it, or am I locked in to finding a Cutler-Hammer branded one? Quick Google shows CH breakers are made by Eaton these days, though there may be two types. Take a picture of them with the cover off and take it to home depot.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:59
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Ghostnuke posted:My electrical panel is a Cutler-Hammer. Can anyone tell me if any of the other brands of breakers will work in it, or am I locked in to finding a Cutler-Hammer branded one? Cutler Hammer makes 2 models of panels. Each one takes their own breaker type (CH or BR) and they aren't compatible with one another. They can be readily identified by their width. CH are like 1/2" wide while BR ones are around 3/4" wide. Do you have any breakers marked "spare"? Take off your panel cover, pop that breaker out and take it to the store to find a match of appropriate amperage. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 18:08
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My hot water is stinky. Smells like sewage. What causes this/is there an easy fix? Is there a port on the top of the water heater where I can pour a bottle of bleach in or something?
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Dec 17, 2017 18:37
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:My hot water is stinky. Smells like sewage. What causes this/is there an easy fix? Is there a port on the top of the water heater where I can pour a bottle of bleach in or something? Well water or city water? My dad had stinky hot water so they dug a deeper well and that fixed it. Also your water heater anode rod is probably worn out. Depending on the age of the water heater, it's very difficult to get the old one out to replace it.
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Dec 17, 2017 18:41
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H110Hawk posted:Quick Google shows CH breakers are made by Eaton these days, though there may be two types. Take a picture of them with the cover off and take it to home depot. kid sinister posted:Cutler Hammer makes 2 models of panels. Each one takes their own breaker type (CH or BR) and they aren't compatible with one another. They can be readily identified by their width. CH are like 1/2" wide while BR ones are around 3/4" wide. Thanks dudes, that helps. I'm putting in a 220 outlet in the garage, so I'm trying to find an appropriate 30 amp double pole gfci that will fit in my panel. I'll see if I can figure out if it's a CH or BR.
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Dec 17, 2017 18:50
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City, but the cold is fine, so it must be something in my water heater. And yeah it's probably the original 25-year-old unit. Edit: I guess now I have an excuse for not doing laundry/dishes, at least. 
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Dec 17, 2017 18:52
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Delivery McGee posted:My hot water is stinky. Smells like sewage. What causes this/is there an easy fix? Is there a port on the top of the water heater where I can pour a bottle of bleach in or something? If you're on well water or if your city doesn't treat your water properly, bacteria can sit inside your water heater and make it their own toilet. The fix is to replace your anode rod. Normally, it's a sacrificial rod that erodes instead of the steel tank. In your case, replace it with one that kills bacteria: an aluminum-zinc anode rod. Anode rods can be hard to replace. They are, well, rods as long as the tank and they go in the top of the water heater. People usually put their water heaters in out of the way places that you can't pull the old rod out of the top due to the ceiling. I've heard of people pulling it up a foot, clamping it with vice grips so the rest doesn't fall in, cutting a bit off and repeating until it's all out. Fortunately, they've come up with flexible section anode rods to make the new one go in easier. They kind of look like old school sausage links. There's a further 2 types of rods, depending on your heater. One is just a plain old rod. Most gas heaters use these. The other has the hot water outlet built into the top. Most electric heaters use these. They're a pain to remove since you have to remove the exit hot water pipe from the top first just to get the outlet/anode combo out. For solid copper, this means desoldering a section if you don't have enough play in the pipe to move it over while pulling out the anode. Then there's moving over the old dielectric union, etc. Edit: almost forgot, turn off the cold valve feeding your heater first and drain the tank a little before you remove the old rod. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 20:12
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kid sinister posted:Edit: almost forgot, turn off the cold valve feeding your heater first and drain the tank a little before you remove the old rod. Heck, drain it completely and flush it out a bit. It could likely use it, and draining it a little is the same amount of work. (learned something about anode rods there too, thanks!)
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Dec 17, 2017 20:58
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H110Hawk posted:Heck, drain it completely and flush it out a bit. It could likely use it, and draining it a little is the same amount of work. No you don't, and I'll tell you why: manufacturers hulk out when they tighten those things in, then add years of corrosion and deposits. It helps to have some extra weight in the tank to keep it from spinning while you're trying to unscrew that old anode. Finish emptying it after you got the rod out. OP, if it's a regular anode rod, you may need a big rear end socket, breaker bar with a cheater in order to get it unscrewed, and maybe a helper to hold the tank so it doesn't spin. For combo rods, if you can find one, a 24" pipe wrench is nice, but a smaller one with cheater works too. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 23:48
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I noticed that my furnace fan had been running for several hours continuously, so I went and checked on it, and there was no flame. Checked my (gas) stovetop, and it had no gas flow. I have an earthquake shutoff valve on my gas line, which is supposed to cut off gas if there's a seismic event; I assume I bumped it while carrying a ladder past it. I reset the valve (1/8" turn of a little screw), heard a little "psht" sound, and everything seems to be OK now -- furnace is working, stove's working. Is there anything else I should check on? Odds of the shutoff valve being damaged or needing an expert to look at it?
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Dec 18, 2017 00:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I noticed that my furnace fan had been running for several hours continuously, so I went and checked on it, and there was no flame. Checked my (gas) stovetop, and it had no gas flow. I have an earthquake shutoff valve on my gas line, which is supposed to cut off gas if there's a seismic event; I assume I bumped it while carrying a ladder past it. I reset the valve (1/8" turn of a little screw), heard a little "psht" sound, and everything seems to be OK now -- furnace is working, stove's working. Is there anything else I should check on? Odds of the shutoff valve being damaged or needing an expert to look at it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PIU3iPcu74
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Dec 18, 2017 01:53
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To be clear, it was working this morning, then I did some repair work that required carrying a ladder through a fairly narrow walkway that has the valve poking out of the house. I specifically remember bumping the gas hookup with the ladder and thinking "I wonder if that will close the valve". And no, there haven't been any earthquakes today. EDIT: ...well, poo poo, the gas stopped working again. I'm gonna stop dicking around with that shutoff valve and call in an expert, I think.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:To be clear, it was working this morning, then I did some repair work that required carrying a ladder through a fairly narrow walkway that has the valve poking out of the house. I specifically remember bumping the gas hookup with the ladder and thinking "I wonder if that will close the valve". And no, there haven't been any earthquakes today. Call the gas company, they don't screw around with problems specifically because they don't want consumers messing with it if they don't know what they are doing. Omitting hitting it with a ladder might reduce your repair bill.
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Dec 18, 2017 02:13
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H110Hawk posted:Call the gas company, they don't screw around with problems specifically because they don't want consumers messing with it if they don't know what they are doing. Very true. Houses exploding on the news make for bad press.
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Dec 18, 2017 03:15
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I want to stick a wide baseplate (sheet of plexiglass) to the bottom of my router. eg:   I need screws identical to the ones holding on the current baseplate, but a quarter inch longer. 8-32 is too big. So is 6-32; the threads don't mesh at least. edit: I know that the OEM screw is called a M4X0.7. How can I turn this information into a longer screw of the same type? DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 11:02 on Dec 18, 2017 |
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Dec 18, 2017 10:42
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If that picture is accurate that's a metric M4 screw, looks to be about 7mm long, maybe they're calling it 0.7cm but the convention is to measure these in mm. Let's say you want to add a 10mm baseplate, you want a counter sunk M4 X 17 screw. If you can't get exactly what you require buy the next longest i.e. m4x20 and hacksaw/Dremel the extra off. Put a nut on first, it'll un-mung the cut threads when you screw it off.
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Dec 18, 2017 11:36
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cakesmith handyman posted:If that picture is accurate that's a metric M4 screw, looks to be about 7mm long, maybe they're calling it 0.7cm but the convention is to measure these in mm.
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Dec 18, 2017 13:41
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I need to replace my thermostat. On is off and Off is on. I hope the thermostat was just a piece of poo poo reject, and not the wires reversed or something. Anywho. My building supplies heat/ac through a chiller, system. I'd prefer to replace the stat with the exact same motherfucker, but its about 10 years old, and probably not available anymore. I've been looking for stats on the Home Despot website and there are a bunch of them that are "heat only". Since my building supplies heat/ac dependent on season, should I be getting one of those? It seems like it, since all I really need to do is set the temperature up or down but I want to make sure... Thanks goons.
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Dec 18, 2017 14:51
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Flipperwaldt posted:0.7 is the pitch of the thread; i.e. it's the standard coarse threaded variant of M4. The length doesn't seem to be listed on that page. So measure the screw he has, I've nothing else to go on.
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Dec 18, 2017 14:58
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The worst part of not having any gas is starting Monday morning with a cold shower in a cold house.  At least I live in California, so I'm in no danger of my pipes freezing or anything like that.
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Dec 18, 2017 15:33
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Metric! Of course. Thank you. I'll be able to find that.
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Dec 18, 2017 17:54
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H110Hawk posted:Call the gas company, they don't screw around with problems specifically because they don't want consumers messing with it if they don't know what they are doing. Changing it to hitting it with a dildo might also reduce your repair bill, as you're in the S.F. area (believable story) and they need these anecdotes and lulz.
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Dec 18, 2017 18:34
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This morning I checked on the valve again and discovered that it's not level, which is almost certainly why it's not working. Called the utility company, they'll send a tech out today to take a look at it. My guess is that all that needs to happen is for them to wrench the thing ten degrees back to level (and then relight the hot water heater's pilot light), but if that's not all that needs doing, then it'll be good to have someone knowledgeable present.
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Dec 18, 2017 18:49
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Hey goons, its me with the Cutler-Hammer panel again. Few more questions: Here we are with the cover off  Up in here it looks like I have neutrals and grounds going to the same bar, is that right?  Lastly, does this sticker mean I have the CH type of panel? 
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Dec 18, 2017 21:55
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Yes those are the same CH breakers I have. Home Depot has plenty made by Eaton. Yes your neutrals and grounds should be terminated to the same rail in your main panel. I wish my panel were that neatly done.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:59
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eddiewalker posted:Yes those are the same CH breakers I have. Home Depot has plenty made by Eaton. Awesome, thanks. So do I tie my ground and the pigtail from the gfci to the same lug on one of these bars then?
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Dec 18, 2017 22:26
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Ghostnuke posted:Awesome, thanks. So do I tie my ground and the pigtail from the gfci to the same lug on one of these bars then? Yes. Ground and neutral are effectively the same thing inside your main panel. That is not the case anywhere else including sub panels.
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Dec 19, 2017 00:10
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eddiewalker posted:Yes. Ground and neutral are effectively the same thing It can also be in the meter base or even the service entrance weatherhead. In this case it looks to be the main panel, but nobody should assume that's always going to be the case.
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Dec 19, 2017 17:20
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Ghostnuke posted:Lastly, does this sticker mean I have the CH type of panel? FYI, the label on the inside of the door probably could have told you that. I should have told you that the first time. But yeah, those are CH breakers, now made by Eaton.
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Dec 19, 2017 18:54
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Okay so whiteboards. Or blackboards actually, this question applies to both. I've seen in fancy universities like UCMIT and Harvard Berkeley where they have multiple horizontal boards arranged vertically on rails so they can write at a comfortable height and then scoot it up or down out of the way while moving on to another board. How do they work? Offset rails, presumably, but is there some kind of counterweight system going on? I'd like to make the best whiteboard-use of a 1900x2500 wall in my home office without sitting on the floor or standing on a box to write on two thirds of it.
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Dec 20, 2017 15:24
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Jaded Burnout posted:Okay so whiteboards. Or blackboards actually, this question applies to both. Paging the guy itt that does installations for UCMIT and Harvard Berkeley.
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Dec 20, 2017 16:51
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Jaded Burnout posted:Okay so whiteboards. Or blackboards actually, this question applies to both. Old windows used window weights hidden in the frames to balance the weights. That's what the strings on the sides are for. These days, windows use springs to counter the weight, as do garage doors for the same purpose.
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Dec 20, 2017 18:23
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hey, folks. dealing with the dumbest situation in the world, trying to see how deep down this rabbit hole to go. history: contractor hangs cabinets. contractor secures cabinet not to stud, but to drain line with a screw at two different points. small, inconsistent leak exists for months behind cabinet back, and finally became detectable. came home today to find the contractor remediated by: taking down and chucking the cabinet, cutting out the damaged dry wall, and wiping down all available surfaces with a bleach solution. what i'm currently stuck on is: 1. pipe sleeves over pvc replacement. it's not the most workable area, sure, but this reeks of lazy. acceptable? force a cut out and replace? 2. i've never had to deal with mold, and the wife is bugged out. inspection-worthy? as far as i can tell there's nothing visible anymore, but that doesn't account for air or hidden areas (in-wall, behind adjacent cabinets). 3. any future risk for in-wall without deeper investigation/replacement efforts? some pictures of this dumb poo poo after the fact. drywall was hauled off with him, so none available of any possible mold surfaces. https://imgur.com/a/oSwiV
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Dec 21, 2017 19:31
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Worth doing once, do it right. I wouldn't want my shower and sink doodoo water dripping in my wall, and I'll be damned if it is going to be repaired by rubber after they hosed up my wall.
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Dec 21, 2017 19:47
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Way back in the day, borescope cameras used to be right around a $1,000 for a decent one. Now they are less than $25. Sometimes you need to tape the camera to something like a coat hanger to get them where you want to look, but they are awesome at looking in places you can't fit your head. https://smile.amazon.com/Amicool-Inspection-Megapixels-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B072179BTL Grab one of these and lower it into the wall cavities. Taking pictures of any mold/damage is as easy as a pushing the button on your phone.
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Dec 21, 2017 19:48
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impossible! posted:hey, folks. dealing with the dumbest situation in the world, trying to see how deep down this rabbit hole to go. But this *was* someone's fault. And gently caress having to deal with a half assed fix when someone else hosed up your home. This is why contractors carry insurance (he was insured, yeah?). Cabinets should be detached, inspected, and replaced if found to be damaged. The wall underneath the leak should be ripped out and replaced. Cabinets put back in, all is right with the world.
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Dec 21, 2017 19:51
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