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Genghis Cohen posted:Does anyone have a video guide on basic basing techniques? I have always used the same method for my 40k armies: thinned pva glue on the base, stick in tub of mixed grain sand, shake off, then clear away excess once it's dried. I can't help feel but that I'm missing something (it's been a year or two since I last tried this) because it's just not going smoothly. Bits of sand clump up, come off easily, generally look a bit weak. Should I apply another layer of thinner pva glue to hold it all down? I use that technique for my orks still. Here's what I do: -slather the base with unthinned PVA. -dip in my basing material. -tap off the excess -wait for the PVA to fully dry -brush on a heavy coat of thinned down PVA to seal it in place -prime, base coat, wash and dry brush Next time I paint some new orks I may experiment with technical paints to see if I can get a close enough effect to keep them looking consistent.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:54
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CRAFTWORLD ANyway, Fire Prisms are just a hair short of finished.   Just some touch ups and gloss to go. I do wonder if I should silver out the engine intakes to break up the  Play by play: This is the test piece  Color pallete  Color Pass  All masked up  Dark pass:  These guys will be done soon, masking them took forever. I was mid dark pass when my compressor died. 
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Dec 16, 2017 17:39
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Im still really terrible at photography. How are these detail shots of my baneblade looking? I cannot get a full shot of it without it looking garbage still. 
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Dec 16, 2017 17:52
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Looks great! It won't be perfect until that final matte coat.
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Dec 16, 2017 18:04
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Impressive weathering. I'm going to buy a chimera at some point just to practice that
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Dec 16, 2017 18:11
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Lethemonster posted:Im still really terrible at photography. How are these detail shots of my baneblade looking? I cannot get a full shot of it without it looking garbage still. That's lovely. I hate you.
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Dec 16, 2017 18:12
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Bucnasti posted:I use that technique for my orks still. Here's what I do: Yeah, I think that would improve mine, if I started with unthinned PVA then did all with a very thinned down coat. Every day is a school day.
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Dec 16, 2017 18:24
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I want to prime and paint a large character model before I put it together. I won't paint over the parts that will be glued directly, but they'll get some primer on them. Will the glue still stick as well since there'll be a layer of primer between the layer of Zap-A-Gap?
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Dec 16, 2017 19:16
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Ahh thank you! I very frequently paint things I think look lovely and then only have trash photos of them. My photos of the tank as a whole (rather than detail shots) makes it look like the tank is having its school picture taken. I dont know how but it looks like its missing a laser background. It makes selling them difficult!
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Dec 16, 2017 19:20
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Arthil posted:I actually got a few of those fat medicine pill bottles I've been meaning to get rid of... and now will be repurposed as stands to paint from This is what I do, no need to switch models between a single base, I just keep everything I'm working on ready to go. It rules.
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Dec 16, 2017 19:47
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. I'll just drop a bunch of quarters in there for weight.
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BJPaskoff posted:I want to prime and paint a large character model before I put it together. I won't paint over the parts that will be glued directly, but they'll get some primer on them. Will the glue still stick as well since there'll be a layer of primer between the layer of Zap-A-Gap? I've done this and it did not work out. The glue will bond with the primer, not the model, so it will pull apart really easily. Can you mask off the bond points before priming?
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Dec 16, 2017 20:27
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silly putty or blue tac is good for that
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Dec 16, 2017 20:56
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Oh good idea, Silly Putty might work. To be honest I'll probably psych myself out that I'll fudge it up and end up assembling it first. 
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Dec 16, 2017 21:22
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So I found me an old Battletech mech at a comic shop we passed on the way home from Star Wars. This'll be a fun little thing to try... although there's not a tonne of space for pinning.
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Dec 16, 2017 21:54
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Right up into the base of the foot for a stand. Arms and all that, most pins the size of paper clip can fit anywhere. You will surprise yourself. Just started on this guy last night. I'll make a half rear end attempt at NMM on the suit and gold...thingys. 
Philthy fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 00:16
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DiHK posted:CRAFTWORLD Jesus christ man that's some beautiful eye vomit. I love it. What kind of masking did you use there, by the way?
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Dec 17, 2017 00:36
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Slimnoid posted:What kind of masking did you use there, by the way? Thanks! I bought a six pack of bog standard- comes in an red plastic egg- silly putty from amazon. It looks a bit weird in the one shot because I had already used some of it on the A-10. I'm curious to see how many uses I'll get out of it before it looses it's stick. It was thoroughly pale blue-gray when I put it on the Wraith guard.
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Dec 17, 2017 01:39
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Alokgen posted:I managed to finish my Scrap Jack Gun Boar tonight. These own so loving hard. The gator guy on one foot is  as gently caress. Love the conversions a ton, nice work!
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Dec 17, 2017 01:51
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Base finally dried and got this dude finished. 
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Dec 17, 2017 04:12
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Philthy posted:Base finally dried and got this dude finished. I'm sorry but that looks like a cookie and I can't unsee it. You're giving moola a run for his money here.
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Dec 17, 2017 04:29
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Kind of realizing I have no idea what size of a base to get for this Frost Giant King. Going by the comparison mini being probably on a 25mm base, what might I need to shoot for? My best guess was an 100mm base but that might be shooting too big.
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Dec 17, 2017 04:51
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Philthy posted:Base finally dried and got this dude finished. Love it but those are definitely those thin waffle cookies
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Dec 17, 2017 05:04
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My wraithguard are coming along unbelievably well, and I'm getting really good at freehand at this point.         I am so proud of these guys.
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Dec 17, 2017 08:07
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well you should be proud because they look loving sweet
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Dec 17, 2017 10:09
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That meditating wraithlord is sublime.
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Dec 17, 2017 13:48
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bonds0097 posted:That meditating wraithlord is sublime. Tell that to the guy drawing los to it.  (It looks great)
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Dec 17, 2017 14:38
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Yeah. It looks amazing. After that my second thought was that it was unfortunate you might have trouble using it in tournaments and junk. Seriously, though, you are rightly proud. They all look awesome.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:30
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True LoS is stupid. I like that all the smart games just use a standard "volume cylinder" from the base to determine LoS.
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Dec 17, 2017 17:37
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Arthil posted:Alright then! The pictures aren't all super clear as I don't have a setup for taking them. How long was the session? Depending on the wash, if you dont let the paint dry completely the wash can end up mixing with the paint, which can muddy things up. Like everyone else has said though, not a bad first stab at all  For some inspiration, here's the first mini of one of the best 40k painters around: 
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Dec 17, 2017 18:04
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Neurolimal posted:How long was the session? Depending on the wash, if you dont let the paint dry completely the wash can end up mixing with the paint, which can muddy things up. Oh for sure looking at it we didn't have anywhere -near- enough time. The whole session was 2 hours, but I know we didn't wait 30-40 minutes for the wash to dry. Edit: That picture definitely makes me feel better lol. We'll see how I do with something that is 100% mine from start to finish. Relative bought me... more or less what I was missing for painting. Toolbox/Reaper learn to paint kit/set of medieval vallejo paints/black primer/brushes/blue-tak which will all be arriving tomorrow.
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Dec 17, 2017 19:26
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Neurolimal posted:How long was the session? Depending on the wash, if you dont let the paint dry completely the wash can end up mixing with the paint, which can muddy things up. Is this Duncan's?
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Dec 17, 2017 19:37
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Yep.
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Dec 17, 2017 19:43
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I’m moving from Michigan to Japan for a 3 year work contract. Anyone have any experience with moving your hobby stuff across the ocean? My thoughts are to put my paint in ziplocks and throw some desiccant packets in there in case sea air leaks through (my stuff is being shipped by boat). Also, anyone have any recommendations on hobby stores in Yokohama? Or Tokyo?
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Dec 17, 2017 20:52
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Arthil posted:Kind of realizing I have no idea what size of a base to get for this Frost Giant King. Stick a 25mm under each foot
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Dec 17, 2017 20:56
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50mm-60mm should be fine for the frost giant.
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Dec 17, 2017 21:32
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Dremcon posted:I’m moving from Michigan to Japan for a 3 year work contract. Anyone have any experience with moving your hobby stuff across the ocean? My thoughts are to put my paint in ziplocks and throw some desiccant packets in there in case sea air leaks through (my stuff is being shipped by boat). First: Fucker, why didn't you tell us you were in MI? Second: Unless you have some kind of super-specialized tool, I wouldn't bother shipping your paints and stuff, you can easily get that stuff in Japan (Tamiya is, after all, a Japanese company). As for where to buy stuff, there's a fantastic LAOX hobby store in Akihabara that has different poo poo on every floor (like an entire floor devoted to Gundam, another for historical models, one for airsoft, one for Warhammer stuff, etc). Warning - the lowest basement level is purely devoted to skeevy anime porn.
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Dec 17, 2017 22:47
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DiHK posted:CRAFTWORLD These are so good, the blending of colour comes across much better on the tanks than the warthog, glad you let the weird blue stripe go. It's still funny how it goes from rainbow vomit to fossian patterning after that black is added.
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Dec 17, 2017 23:57
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Dremcon posted:I’m moving from Michigan to Japan for a 3 year work contract. Anyone have any experience with moving your hobby stuff across the ocean? My thoughts are to put my paint in ziplocks and throw some desiccant packets in there in case sea air leaks through (my stuff is being shipped by boat). I didn't have a huge issue getting my paint kit to and from Kuwait, but it was in my luggage. Still, I shouldn't think you'd need desiccant packets so long as you make sure the paints are all closed tightly and in baggies. The one worry I might have is if your stuff freezes. Acrylic paints are pretty much perma-wrecked if they freeze through. If you know what the conditions are like and if that's a possibility, you can plan accordingly. It might not be a worry, and it might be possible to insulate your stuff, but it's worth checking on. Check the cost of shipping the paints and stuff. It should still work out cheaper than completely replacing them, but as Ilor said, you can just replace everything when you get there if you have to.
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Dec 18, 2017 00:12
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Do the Caliban and Space Wolf aerosol sprays match the colour in the paint pots properly? I know that the Macragge Blue spray doesn't.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:08
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Do I use typhus corrosion before or after I matte varnish?
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Dec 18, 2017 02:07
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