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Okay! Re-did some rims. Black:  German Grey:  Mid Grey:  I'm liking the #3, the lightest, myself, but I also put the blue-green on them in the first place so I'm not trusting my opinion.
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Dec 15, 2017 07:42
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Arthil posted:Went to a little painting class at the local game shop this evening. Not really too keen on posting the results, I know it's pretty sloppy though I think for my first time touching brush to mini it ain't the worst. Blending flew right over my head, but maybe I just didn't get to listen/watch closely enough. Seemed to pick up on how to do the wash, and dry brushing pretty easily though and am kind of proud of how nicely the rusted effect on metal I did turned out. Just post it! Everybody starts out less than stellar.
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Dec 15, 2017 09:04
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Fellow on the Reaper boards picked me up some swag from ReaperCon. One of the minis was Con Crud, the convention zombie. Given that I was recovering from a cold I got on deployment, I felt it was especially relatable. 
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Dec 15, 2017 10:27
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Giant Isopod posted:Okay! Re-did some rims.
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Dec 15, 2017 14:48
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Electric Hobo posted:Just post it! Everybody starts out less than stellar. Alright then! The pictures aren't all super clear as I don't have a setup for taking them. Here's how it looked with the base coat already added, and after we applied some kind of textured paint to the base.  This is the end result I took at home. He showed us how to use washes, though I may have messed that up at some point. Showed a technique for giving a metallic effect on metal, which we used on the bolter and jetpack. I couldn't get the blending technique down as I wasn't 100% sure what I was meant to be doing, so to fix my mistakes I went back and gave a different color to the shoulders. Ended up doing a lot of dry brushing on this, and at the end decided to do the same with the base which I think looked better than the original gray. There was another color some people had for their bases which actually had chunks in it and it seemed to crack and have a more natural ground effect.  And here is a close look at the jetpack. Even here it isn't as apparent, but I ended up doing a good job with the rusting effect here.  Overall I know it's messy, but I like how I did going in blind. Once I have my own brand new brushes it'll probably feel easier getting the smaller details too, I couldn't color the eyes at all with the ones provided. Also thought working with a grey would be easier, but a darker color probably would've turned out better.
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Dec 15, 2017 15:45
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Honestly for a first mini you did great. The main thing I would probably comment on is to thin your paints out a bit and do it in less layers. There's a lot of very light colours in that scheme as well which are going to highlight a lot of the faults too so don't worry about it too much
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Dec 15, 2017 15:50
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Arthil posted:First dude ever painted by Arthil!
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Dec 15, 2017 17:34
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Anybody using the Badger primers notice you get a lot more matte finish with them, versus other airbrush or brush-on primers? I'm really liking them, but on the other hand, it means I have a shitload of primed minis to strip.
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Dec 15, 2017 19:11
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Arthil posted:Blending flew right over my head, but maybe I just didn't get to listen/watch closely enough. This Painting Buddha video is the one I found most useful on blending. I've still not had much luck with wet blending so I tend to go with layering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ It's still definitely something that takes practice to get the hang of.
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Dec 15, 2017 19:18
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I know GW's customer service is pretty great, but I have a weird situation here. I got a blister of an Empire Battle Wizard from 2000, and it's not a model they make anymore. However, it has the wrong arm in the blister. What could/would they even do?
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Dec 15, 2017 20:19
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SRM posted:I know GW's customer service is pretty great, but I have a weird situation here. I got a blister of an Empire Battle Wizard from 2000, and it's not a model they make anymore. However, it has the wrong arm in the blister. What could/would they even do? OTOH, what's the worst that could happen if you ask them for help?
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Dec 15, 2017 20:22
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SRM posted:I know GW's customer service is pretty great, but I have a weird situation here. I got a blister of an Empire Battle Wizard from 2000, and it's not a model they make anymore. However, it has the wrong arm in the blister. What could/would they even do? They might be able to give you a hand
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Dec 15, 2017 20:26
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I have a Steel Legion lascannon with two gunners and no loader. I got it from a friend who stopped playing in the early 2000s. It's still in its blister, but they wouldn't do anything because I don't have proof of purchase. New GW customer service kind of blows.
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Dec 15, 2017 20:30
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moths posted:I have a Steel Legion lascannon with two gunners and no loader. I got it from a friend who stopped playing in the early 2000s. When I rung them up not even a year ago I just needed to give them the batch number on the box for stuff that had been mispacked, but that was for stuff they still made.
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Dec 15, 2017 20:32
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My email is probably flagged or something. I had this ongoing attempt to get the good tyrannids dice a few years after finding out about the correction and getting stuck with the lovely, sperm looking misprinted ones. They had all the dice reprinted, then gave twice as many out to the first half of people who complained. Which I found out about after they'd given them all away, so gently caress me I guess.
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Dec 15, 2017 20:45
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SRM posted:When I rung them up not even a year ago I just needed to give them the batch number on the box for stuff that had been mispacked, but that was for stuff they still made. They might send you one of the current plastic sprues, or considering that the mage is old enough to vote now they might say they're past any support they could give.
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Dec 15, 2017 21:14
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What is everybody's favorite paint color for asphalt?
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Dec 15, 2017 23:32
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mango sentinel posted:What is everybody's favorite paint color for asphalt? vallejo black-grey and whatever warm dark grey to highlight
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Dec 15, 2017 23:58
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Electric Hobo posted:Yeah, that's not bad at all for your first guy. Keep your paint thin, get your brush control down and consider not adding texture to your bases' rims but just paint them in a dark neutral color. Yeah the problem was it being like a 201 class rather than 101 so simple stuff like learning to thin paints and such weren't covered. They did show an easy way to make a wet palette with plastic plates and paper towels, so that's a plus! darnon posted:This Painting Buddha video is the one I found most useful on blending. I've still not had much luck with wet blending so I tend to go with layering. Okay yeah, wow that makes a lot more sense than what he was trying to show us. I think he was showing us a different more advanced way to do it that was mentioned in the video. Arthil fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 01:34
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Anything special I need to do to run Vallejo Game Color Chainmail Silver through an airbrush? I assume still thin it and add flow improver?
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Dec 16, 2017 02:21
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Add metallic thinner if you can or you'll lose some of the metallic effect. Ideally get the Game Air equivalent.
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Dec 16, 2017 02:37
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Funzo posted:Anything special I need to do to run Vallejo Game Color Chainmail Silver through an airbrush? I assume still thin it and add flow improver? Thin it real good sure, but the real answer is use Vallejo Air Aluminum. The shiney particles are smaller in the air and will both look better and blow better. (personally I wouldn't blow a brush metallic through an airbrush on principle) E: \/sad trombone(tm)\/
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Dec 16, 2017 02:37
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They might send you one of the current plastic sprues, or considering that the mage is old enough to vote now they might say they're past any support they could give. It ended up being the latter, womp womp
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Dec 16, 2017 02:38
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DiHK posted:Thin it real good sure, but the real answer is use Vallejo Air Aluminum. The shiney particles are smaller in the air and will both look better and blow better. That or Vallejo Metal Color Airbrush Silver in the 32ml bottles if you want a real nice super shiny silver.
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Dec 16, 2017 03:18
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I ended up just buying the Vallejo Air. It's going to look nicer then trying to screw around with spraying the Game Color.
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Dec 16, 2017 03:45
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I managed to finish my Scrap Jack Gun Boar tonight.    I also recently did some conversions for my gators. Here's some WIP shots. 
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Dec 16, 2017 03:57
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Hah, wow! A relative got wind of me getting into painting minis so... Now I'm gonna have a Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, a set of Vallejo Medieval paint, a set of brushes, a bottle of black vallejo primer, some blue-tak and after they got annoyed trying to find a decent sized hobby/arts box they also got a CAT tool box which is actually perfect. Anything I should pick up on my own then, other than the stuff I got for assembly?
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Dec 16, 2017 04:08
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Arthil posted:
Keep some cash for the things you will inevitably buy as you progress and learn about new tools and techniques. This hobby never has an end point.
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Dec 16, 2017 04:13
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darnon posted:32ml bottles *orgasm* E: Yeast posted:This hobby never has an end point. This. Maybe scrounge some wine corks for the blue tac. Just spend some hours painting, then come back and read the OP. It's p gud. DiHK fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 04:43
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I actually got a few of those fat medicine pill bottles I've been meaning to get rid of... and now will be repurposed as stands to paint from  . I'll just drop a bunch of quarters in there for weight.
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Dec 16, 2017 06:18
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I've got a question for the thread. I'm looking at building an all women Russian army for Bolt Action, and im looking at putting a Rosie the Riveter insignia on the side of my tank. Does anyone have a good source for tiny custom decals. Or barring that, tiny stickers of Rosie the Riveter for my tank.
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Dec 16, 2017 06:29
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Arthil posted:I actually got a few of those fat medicine pill bottles I've been meaning to get rid of... and now will be repurposed as stands to paint from Yarp. I use those for models already on the base.
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Dec 16, 2017 06:52
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DiHK posted:Yarp. I use those for models already on the base. I actually did wanna ask about that. So I picked up a bones Frost Giant King at my FLGS, and he's a big fucker. I know I'd be able to get a base for him, but I'm wondering if I need to for painting and if not how I'd go about getting the same usefulness of takking a based mini to a bottle/something else? Technically the bottoms of his feet are never to be seen once put on a base, so I could see just slapping a bit of tak under each foot.
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Dec 16, 2017 06:56
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Those bones mini's are kinda special cases... I've a giantess that has a "base" bit between her feet so for painting it was fine to stick her on a 20oz bottlecap. But you've got free feet on this guy? Hrm Honestly I would put that guy on his final base before painting him. So for my process I'd put bits on the base to dress it up and superglue him down. Prime the whole thing, paint the figure. Use a GW technical paint for the grit then paint the base.
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Dec 16, 2017 07:02
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DiHK posted:Those bones mini's are kinda special cases... I've a giantess that has a "base" bit between her feet so for painting it was fine to stick her on a 20oz bottlecap. But you've got free feet on this guy? Hrm Yeah, here's how he looks put together.  Using some of that technical paint would be neat! The guy running the class had two types, I honestly would've preferred the orange one over the dark gray I got cause it had these more noticeable gritty chunks, and when it dried it kind of cracked like dry dirt. I could sort of see using that on a big ol' base, and when getting to painting that kind of make it look like cracked ice or something. Edit: Ah, those were texture paints we used! Arthil fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 07:53
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Does anyone have a video guide on basic basing techniques? I have always used the same method for my 40k armies: thinned pva glue on the base, stick in tub of mixed grain sand, shake off, then clear away excess once it's dried. I can't help feel but that I'm missing something (it's been a year or two since I last tried this) because it's just not going smoothly. Bits of sand clump up, come off easily, generally look a bit weak. Should I apply another layer of thinner pva glue to hold it all down?
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Dec 16, 2017 13:15
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Genghis Cohen posted:Does anyone have a video guide on basic basing techniques? I have always used the same method for my 40k armies: thinned pva glue on the base, stick in tub of mixed grain sand, shake off, then clear away excess once it's dried. I can't help feel but that I'm missing something (it's been a year or two since I last tried this) because it's just not going smoothly. Bits of sand clump up, come off easily, generally look a bit weak. Should I apply another layer of thinner pva glue to hold it all down? You should switch to technical/texture paints and marvel at your minimal effort awesome looking bases (wash and drybrush optional).
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Dec 16, 2017 13:33
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Arthil posted:Edit: Ah, those were texture paints we used! Dang he big. I'd stick him on jar lid or to his final base for sure. For textures, if your needs aren't large then just get the Gdub stuff, but for the crackle I would recommend Golden Crackel Paste for a few reasons. 1) Mix it with cheapo craft paint for custom colors (He's a frost giant so he should be on ice. 2) All the technicals need to be applied very heavily so for such a large base it's be more economical to go with bulk. 3) you'll have loads for later and let's face it; The Cackle is hands down the coolest texture paint. The OP has links and guides to basing stuff, I don't know any videos off hand though. I've always been a proud DIY in that regard even if I gently caress it up a few times. (Most of my loving that up was before the interwebs. Taught myself snow and ice that way, loads of experimenting). The terrain thread can help there too.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:01
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bonds0097 posted:You should switch to technical/texture paints and marvel at your minimal effort awesome looking bases (wash and drybrush optional). I may do this for my next project. But these are all to finish off my IG army, which I started around 2010! In any case, while some bits were a bit of a pain with flaking, I got them all smashed together, will be spray priming in a sec.
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Dec 16, 2017 16:14
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Arthil posted:I actually got a few of those fat medicine pill bottles I've been meaning to get rid of... and now will be repurposed as stands to paint from If you have a hobby lobby nearby they have a cool wooden things aisle. You'll find a 3 pack of wooden rolling pins that you can bust off the ends and they make three nice model holder grips for $4. They also carry Vallejo paints, air brushes, modeling clay, clay cutting tools and texture sheets. Nothing you absolutely need, but keep it in mind. If you find yourself wanting to buy something expensive, like a Iwata HPCS, make sure you print out the 50% one item coupon. 
Philthy fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 16:25
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