|
What country are you in?: USA What are you using the system for? 10 year-old's computer What's your budget? Let's start with sub $500, but want to go as minimal as possible If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? None If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Good enough settings at decent enough resolution for a kid I cobbled together a machine 2.5 years ago for my son to use to play Minecraft, Rocket League, and more recently some Roblox game. I've noticed that over the short two years the fans go pretty high when he's on it. I'm thinking I may have gone too low on the specs. This week, I'm nearly certain that the Motherboard died on me. No POST, just fans spinning on boot up. Threw my PSU in there and same result. Question is, with the parts list below, what can I salvage and what SHOULD (or should not) salvage? Should I just start with a fresh build? I do not believe that his use case will change much in the near future and won't be going into mid to high end gaming at all. Since this was a random failure, I'd prefer to spend as little as possible to get him up and running again but also prevent another burnout situation if that's what happened. Current build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-F2A88XM-D3H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($73.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus - Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card PSU: Can grab if needed HD: Generic 500GB Case: Old HTPC case I used to use. Probably due for a new one with better ventilation e: Additionally, if I were just to replace the Mobo and Case, what would be a sufficient MB to pick, just anything that'll fit the chipset? TraderStav fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Dec 23, 2017 |
#
?
Dec 23, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 03:57 |
|
|
TraderStav posted:Question is, with the parts list below, what can I salvage and what SHOULD (or should not) salvage? Should I just start with a fresh build? I do not believe that his use case will change much in the near future and won't be going into mid to high end gaming at all. You could theoretically salvage the GPU - for now. You have to assume that it's maybe the PSU that went and perhaps took the motherboard with it, so you can't really trust it, either. My suggestion would be a rebuild, and going conservatively: CPU: Intel i3 8100, $120 @ Newegg Motherboard: ASRock Z370M Pro4, $99 after $10 rebate @ Newegg (normally we wouldn't recommend this board as it doesn't OC well, but he's 10 - he won't be overclocking, and you'll be using a locked chip anyway) RAM: 2x4GB DDR4-2666, ~$100-120 PSU: Seasonic Focus Plus 550W, $60 after rebate (expires 12/24) @ Newegg (10 year warranty to the G3's seven) That puts you ~$390 (after $30 in rebates), leaving you ~$100-110 toward the price of a 4GB 1050Ti. At this point there's no way of knowing when the non-Z370 boards will be out. Even then, that'll probably only end up saving you $20 or so. 550W is also kind of overkill for this build, but PSUs are currently one of the components you can get a *really good* one of for a non-inflated price. If you'll be buying all this after 12/24, the EVGA G3's rebate goes longer and it's just as good. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Dec 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 00:39
|
|
|
I want to build a desktop that can simultaneously run a dozen Chrome tabs, Office software, two instances of GoToMyPC, and some older game like Civ5 at the same time without issues. I currently have a 5 year old 3570k/8GB RAM/GTX 660 build that can't handle it. I was thinking of getting a new motherboard that can use faster RAM (16 GB, and maybe 32 if that doesn't cut it?), a 7700K, and reusing the 660 since I'm not playing any graphics intensive games. I plan to get a new case and power supply while I'm at it. PC Part Picker estimates the build at about 350W so I was thinking of getting a 650W power supply. Would that work? Any recommendations for a quiet computer case?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 05:16
|
|
|
Uranium 235 posted:I want to build a desktop that can simultaneously run a dozen Chrome tabs, Office software, two instances of GoToMyPC, and some older game like Civ5 at the same time without issues. I currently have a 5 year old 3570k/8GB RAM/GTX 660 build that can't handle it. Please don’t buy a 7700k just get an 8600K or 8700K
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 08:14
|
|
|
edit: nvm
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 10:23
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:Please don’t buy a 7700k just get an 8600K or 8700K anything wrong with 7700k? i’m about to order a dell with one myself
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:28
|
|
|
It is not the latest-generation superduper-awesome processor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:30
|
|
|
There's no reason to buy a 7700k if you're overclocking because the 8700k exists. If you're not in it for the performance then you shouldn't be getting a 7700k when an 8400 will do you well. 7700k's are still in the $300 range so they don't even provide a bargain, an 8600k is the same cost if not lower.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:34
|
|
|
makes sense. sadly dell doesn’t offer the 8x00 line and i don’t plan on overclocking it. so long as the 7700 provides enough for running tons of tracks and plugins in ableton, i’m good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:38
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:You could theoretically salvage the GPU - for now. You have to assume that it's maybe the PSU that went and perhaps took the motherboard with it, so you can't really trust it, either. Thanks for the feedback. Another friend of mine recommended the new Ryzen chips. Would you consider those in this recommendation and it would it help from a cost perspective? If I'm not min/maxing, will the old RAM suffice for the time being while I frankenstein this thing together? Merry Christmas!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:43
|
|
|
Abel Wingnut posted:makes sense. sadly dell doesn’t offer the 8x00 line and i don’t plan on overclocking it. so long as the 7700 provides enough for running tons of tracks and plugins in ableton, i’m good. Dell's clearance selling their 7th gen stuff heavily because the 8th gen has more cores for around the same price per unit, so they're always an upgrade, unlike 6th gen to 7th gen which was only a minor speed increase. The 7th gen is a good deal on those sales but you're buying a 4 core CPU when a 6 core is available for the same price, just not through Dell. That's the main issue with a prebuilt, you're stuck with what they want to put in it, and they're not putting any 8th gen stuff out until they get the bulk of the 7th gen sold (and presumably have enough stock to get 8th gen into every product line).
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 14:45
|
|
|
Thanks to everyone who helped out with my inane questions about PC bits. The build went off without a hitch and I am frankly blown away by how well the Define Mini C plays nice with cables. I'm thoroughly underwhelmed by the MSI Z370m's red LEDs but who the poo poo cares about that stuff. Now I just need to get it back home so I can play some gamms worthy of this ridiculous graphics card without waiting days to download them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 15:18
|
|
|
Continuing last page's rambling, I've settled just on a normal-sized PC build. I'm shipping enough poo poo already so I might as well just pack everything back into boxes when it is time to move, and reassemble it at the new place. Hence, would appreciate a sanity check on a machine primarily for gaming at 3440x1440 and higher refresh rates, with occasional signal processing or machine learning work. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor (€384.90 @ Alza) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (€79.90 @ Amazon Deutschland) Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€199.90 @ Caseking) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€126.44 @ Mindfactory) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€62.21 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card (€856.84 @ Mindfactory) Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black ATX Mid Tower Case (€143.27 @ Amazon Deutschland) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€106.84 @ Mindfactory) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full - USB 32/64-bit (€184.03 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €2144.33 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-24 15:15 CET+0100
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 15:21
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Thanks for the feedback. Another friend of mine recommended the new Ryzen chips. Would you consider those in this recommendation and it would it help from a cost perspective? The i3 8100 performs better than the Ryzen 3 1200 or 1300x. The only upside to going Ryzen is that the socket will have a much longer life than the LGA1151v2 of the Z370, with AMD having committed to provide support *and* products for it through 2020. That being said, Ryzen is *very* picky about the RAM you use with it. And no, unfortunately the old RAM will not work in a Z370 or B350 for the Ryzen - they're both DDR4 boards, and right now RAM is stupidly overpriced. That's why I specced out a build with a 2x4 kit instead of 2x8, because 2x8 would completely kill that ~$100 surplus you'd get. Also, going with a Ryzen 3 1200 build over an i3 8100 will save you ~$30 - it's almost 1:1 going with a Ryzen 3 1300X, which still isn't as fast single-threaded as the i3 8100 (though it gets closer, at least). Also, the i3 8100 comes with an IGP built in, which gives you a built-in backup if/when a GPU ever kicks off, but even his existing R7 260X is faster than it is. I recommended the Intel build because it doesn't cost much more and will be faster at what you want it to be fast at, many many many times over what he has now, and it also has a potentially cheap upgrade path many years down the road picking up a used six-core 8600 or 8700 (K/non-K, since it's a Z370 board) when they're much cheaper and 'dated.' And even though Ryzen's way better than anyone originally anticipated, it still lags behind Intel at the low end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 15:23
|
|
|
cinci zoo sniper posted:Continuing last page's rambling, I've settled just on a normal-sized PC build. I'm shipping enough poo poo already so I might as well just pack everything back into boxes when it is time to move, and reassemble it at the new place. Hence, would appreciate a sanity check on a machine primarily for gaming at 3440x1440 and higher refresh rates, with occasional signal processing or machine learning work. If you're going to overclock as much as that motherboard and CPU cooler implies, I'd probably get a 750W PSU just to have a bit more margin. Also, the Asus Maximus Hero is a bit overpriced for what it does; the Asrock Z370 Taichi is a significantly cheaper top tier overclocking board that also has wifi.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 15:36
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:If you're going to overclock as much as that motherboard and CPU cooler implies, I'd probably get a 750W PSU just to have a bit more margin. Also, the Asus Maximus Hero is a bit overpriced for what it does; the Asrock Z370 Taichi is a significantly cheaper top tier overclocking board that also has wifi. I'm not going to to any overclocking competitions or anything with that but if the "silicon lottery" works out, running 8700K at above 5 GHz (5.2 GHz seems to be the realistic upper end) would be on my agenda. Speaking of motherboard, that's often the part where I'm really bad at making choices. My requirements are fairly basic - has at least 1 USB Type-C port (no specific alt. modes), has Bluetooth (whatever spec, for gamepads and poo poo), has 802.11ac Wi-Fi (antennas can be external through backplate connectors). That and I guess whatever is considered "a sane BIOS" these days. Any meaningful overclocking features are a nice extra, and I don't care about flashy lights or anything. In case that matters much, I plan custom loop liquid cooling for that system, in a year or so. Will swap the PSU and take a look at that motherboard, cheers. cinci zoo sniper fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Dec 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 15:57
|
|
|
I'm on an i5 3570k overclocked to 4.2GHz, 8GB DDR3 RAM, Samsung EVO 850. For general desktop use, would I see much performance difference moving to a new i7 8700k with 8GB DDR4 RAM and one of those M.2 drives?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 21:38
|
|
|
WattsvilleBlues posted:I'm on an i5 3570k overclocked to 4.2GHz, 8GB DDR3 RAM, Samsung EVO 850. For general desktop use, would I see much performance difference moving to a new i7 8700k with 8GB DDR4 RAM and one of those M.2 drives? Like office tools and web browsing? Absolutely none.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 21:39
|
|
|
I'm still rocking my lovely Ivy Bridge 3570K and my not-so-lovely Radeon HD 7850. It looks like right now is a terrible time to build a PC both because of prices and because I don't feel that current hardware will serve me well past this year if I want to get into 4K G-sync land (and I do! When the time is right). I'm thinking about just picking up a 1060 6GB as something not top end but much better than my current GPU to be a stop gap until I build a completely new system maybe next year. I'm just gaming at 1080p 60Hz so would this be the best bang for my buck?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 23:02
|
|
|
Monopthalmus posted:I'm still rocking my lovely Ivy Bridge 3570K and my not-so-lovely Radeon HD 7850. The absolute best bang for your buck is the 1060 3 GB, if you can stand to live with a 3 GB VRAM capacity. Give it some thought, it's like 1/3 cheaper (or more) than the 6 GB version. Especially if you are planning on upgrading again soon anyway. Right now Newegg is running the 3 GB Zotac Mini ITX for $180 and they hit that price moderately often, the 6 GB rarely drops under $260. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Dec 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 23:45
|
|
|
cinci zoo sniper posted:Like office tools and web browsing? Absolutely none. Yeah that, I also game occasionally on my machine, the most recent game I have is Alien: Isolation, which already runs pretty well. My GPU is an AMD Radeon HD 7950 Boost. I built this thing in 2012 and have got great use out of it. Apart from gaming, and the fact the power supply will need replaced at some stage, what would justify the cost of upgrading now? Will Cannon Lake CPUs make much of a difference to performance next year or whenever?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 01:07
|
|
|
Just the graphics card, and maybe the PSU if you have money burning a hole in your pocket. If you want to play with your PC may be you haven't opened it up and cleaned it and maybe you want to put new thermal paste on your processor, etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
Price speculation question ahead! So I’m still running a 2500k + 970 setup and it’s getting to the time to upgrade. My current plan is to change out the cpu, mobo, spinner HDD, ram, case and cooler. Then sometime next year I’ll do the graphics card. I’m seeing Boxing Day sales hitting with around 1-2% drops on most items on my list. For items that are at all time lows now should I pull the trigger on them? I’m seeing the case, mobo (Z370) and cooler at lows. Are the new Intel cpus expected to drop later in January? Also is there any point in getting the 8700k over the 8600k when it’s a $200 price difference? I’m mainly gaming. I figure ram is going to be stuck so no point getting it now versus later on. Apologies I know this is all very speculative just trying to save money now so I don’t have a massive initial outlay at this time of year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 04:15
|
|
|
Red_Fred posted:Price speculation question ahead! Motherboards, cases, PSUs, and HSFs have been decently-priced for a while now. It's GPUs and RAM that are the killers at the moment - GPUs doubly-so because not only are there people mining cryptocurrencies, but GDDR is made by the same companies that make DRAM for smartphones and the like. DRAM makers just reported their best year ever so don't expect them to change their business practices any time soon (they will definitely risk another class action lawsuit with the obscene money they're making) - they've finally figured out that no matter what they charge, they'll get it, because smartphone makers are preying on idiots who have to have the new ~hot~ phone every year. The only reason we're pushing the 8700K harder than the 8600K in here is that while right now the 8600K is more than good enough, if there isn't some watershed event in CPU design/technology soon, the only thing going forward for the next 5+ years will be "add moar coarz." That means applications and games (console ports in particular) are going to have to be coded to take full advantage of a CPU's resources, both physical and virtual - so unlike the last 7+ years, hyperthreading might actually wind up being worth a drat in the near to not-so-distant future. We've already seen titles that take advantage of HT and present real world advantages over CPUs that don't have it (BF1, Wolf II, and pretty much any upcoming game using Vulkan). The 2600K also aged way better than the 2500K for this specific reason. I'd almost go so far as to say that if you had a choice between an 8600K and a 1080Ti, and an 8700K and a 1070/1080, I'd honestly suggest going with the latter at this point, unless you were going 4K for some idiotic reason, because Ampere will be out in probably May or June (a complete guess on my part - they'll be showing it off at GTC 2018 in March), and buying a 1070 or a 1080 is a way to spend less money and still have perfectly viable performance in the meantime. In your case, I might even advise just toughing it out with the 970 until then. I have your exact same config (2500K + 970), and if my system immolated itself tomorrow, I'd go with an 8700K and just ~suffer~ until Ampere came out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 04:36
|
|
|
I've been dreaming of a mini-itx build on and off for years and now that I've decided to get on the VR bandwagon, I may have an excuse to replace my old i7 920 + r9 290x - which has served me unbelievably well. It's been a long time since I built a machine and I reckon I need some help. What do people think of this? CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($318.00 @ Shopping Express) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($86.41 @ Skycomp Technology) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX B350-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($199.00 @ PCCaseGear) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($269.00 @ IJK) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($295.00 @ Shopping Express) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($639.00 @ Scorptec) Case: BitFenix - Portal (Black/Windowed) Mini ITX Tower Case ($169.00 @ PLE Computers) Power Supply: Corsair - SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($118.00 @ Shopping Express) Note: I am in Australia.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 06:08
|
|
|
eli4672 posted:I've been dreaming of a mini-itx build on and off for years and now that I've decided to get on the VR bandwagon, I may have an excuse to replace my old i7 920 + r9 290x - which has served me unbelievably well. Maybe look into the Corsair 250D? It's not as 'ooo'-looking as that Bitfenix, but what you lose in pizzazz you gain back in having more inner chassis room and the ability to use a full-sized PSU over an SFX. The H60's also kind of anemic for a six-core Ryzen (especially a 1600X) - and the 250D will accommodate a 240mm radiator. It also houses equipment horizontally, so you don't have to worry about sag. Also - since you'll be using a Ryzen that uses Infinity Fabric (the R5 is a chopped down R7 with two cores disabled), you'd really benefit budgeting for DDR4-3000 or -3200. Just check that board's QVL sheet first to ensure you're buying something that's been thoroughly tested. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Dec 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 06:37
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Maybe look into the Corsair 250D? It's not as 'ooo'-looking as that Bitfenix, but what you lose in pizzazz you gain back in having more inner chassis room and the ability to use a full-sized PSU over an SFX. The H60's also kind of anemic for a six-core Ryzen (especially a 1600X) - and the 250D will accommodate a 240mm radiator. It also houses equipment horizontally, so you don't have to worry about sag. Hey, thanks for the help! I wasn't particularly interested in the water cooling. I was just reading about the Bitfenix Portal and their site suggested you ought to water cool if you wanted a gaming machine - it seems like the case won't be able to dissipate a lot of heat. If I went with the Corsair 250d do you think I could drop down to a Ryzen 1600 with stock cooler (which seems to be better value) and not have the case get too hot?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 08:05
|
|
|
eli4672 posted:If I went with the Corsair 250d do you think I could drop down to a Ryzen 1600 with stock cooler (which seems to be better value) and not have the case get too hot? Well, not only can it hold a 240mm radiator - it can also hold two 120mm fans side-by-side (one would think) blowing into the chassis to keep things reasonably chilly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 08:09
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:I'd almost go so far as to say that if you had a choice between an 8600K and a 1080Ti, and an 8700K and a 1070/1080, I'd honestly suggest going with the latter at this point This is a pretty reasonable statement. Odds are that it will sooner be "worth it" to upgrade your graphics card sooner than your CPU. Not to mention upgrading the CPU usually entails a new mobo and/or RAM. I want to say even go with a 1060 6GB or a used card of the above mentioned and get a G-Sync monitor! Unfortunately I won't be doing the homework to back this up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 08:16
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:I'd almost go so far as to say that if you had a choice between an 8600K and a 1080Ti, and an 8700K and a 1070/1080, I'd honestly suggest going with the latter at this point, unless you were going 4K for some idiotic reason, because Ampere will be out in probably May or June (a complete guess on my part - they'll be showing it off at GTC 2018 in March), and buying a 1070 or a 1080 is a way to spend less money and still have perfectly viable performance in the meantime. In your case, I might even advise just toughing it out with the 970 until then. I have your exact same config (2500K + 970), and if my system immolated itself tomorrow, I'd go with an 8700K and just ~suffer~ until Ampere came out. Decisions, decisions. Can't say the money is burning my pocket so might be worth wait for Ampere news, eh? I can more than comfortably ride out even on 1050 Ti or whatever until then, since monitor purchase will still be in the works by Q2, if not Q3.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 08:23
|
|
|
Jago's got a good point with the 6GB 1060 as well. Honestly the best 'play' at the moment is to buy as little as possible (with the exception of RAM, really - since you want to buy matched pairs) to have a functional and viable system for what you want to do, and kind of hope for the crypto bubble to burst, because I'm sure nVidia's salivating at the chance to MSRP the Ampere x70 at $449-479, depending on the bells and whistles. Because it's going to take first-world governments, alliances of countries, and multinational companies speaking up to get the DRAM makers to back down from their current collusion and price-fixing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 08:37
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Jago's got a good point with the 6GB 1060 as well. Honestly the best 'play' at the moment is to buy as little as possible (with the exception of RAM, really - since you want to buy matched pairs) to have a functional and viable system for what you want to do, and kind of hope for the crypto bubble to burst, because I'm sure nVidia's salivating at the chance to MSRP the Ampere x70 at $449-479, depending on the bells and whistles. Because it's going to take first-world governments, alliances of countries, and multinational companies speaking up to get the DRAM makers to back down from their current collusion and price-fixing. Alright, cheers. I'll do the list below then (doubtfully there's 90 EUR of better critical stuff in Asus Z370 Hero) and wait for Ampere news. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor (€384.90 @ Alza) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (€79.90 @ Amazon Deutschland) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Taichi ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€217.60 @ Mindfactory) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€445.12 @ Mindfactory) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€122.89 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€62.21 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Dual Video Card (€235.00 @ Amazon Deutschland) Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black ATX Mid Tower Case (€143.27 @ Amazon Deutschland) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€119.92 @ Mindfactory) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full - USB 32/64-bit (€184.03 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €1994.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-25 09:09 CET+0100
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:09
|
|
|
cinci zoo sniper posted:Alright, cheers. I'll do the list below then (doubtfully there's 90 EUR of better critical stuff in Asus Z370 Hero) and wait for Ampere news. Unless you've got a legitimate reason to go with a 2x16 kit, stick with 2x8 and go with a 6GB 1060 instead. 16GB DIMMs are being sold at an even higher premium at the moment than 8GB DIMMs. If you want 32GB, get 16GB now, then buy a second matched pair of the same SKU if/when DRAM makers are forced to lower prices. It cuts nearly 250EUR off your total: https://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/16GB-Corsair-Vengeance-LPX-LP-schwarz-DDR4-3200-DIMM-CL16-Dual-Kit_1026270.html I wouldn't even go 2x16 in a personal build of mine right now, because gently caress paying as much as a base model 1070 for it. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Dec 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:13
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Unless you've got a legitimate reason to go with a 2x16 kit, stick with 2x8 and go with a 6GB 1060 instead. 16GB DIMMs are being sold at an even higher premium at the moment than 8GB DIMMs. If you want 32GB, get 16GB now, then buy a second matched pair of the same SKU if/when DRAM makers are forced to lower prices. Fair enough, misread your RAM buying advice. The sticks originally in were 2x8GB, idea being to upgrade to 32GB in a year, maybe two. Not sure if I'll see enough VRAM use on 1060 to warrant 6GB version, but the price difference doesn't seem to be meaningful with the overall build cost in the background so whatever. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor (€384.90 @ Alza) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (€79.90 @ Amazon Deutschland) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Taichi ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€217.60 @ Mindfactory) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€199.90 @ Caseking) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€122.89 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€62.21 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card (€306.93 @ Mindfactory) Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black ATX Mid Tower Case (€143.27 @ Amazon Deutschland) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€119.92 @ Mindfactory) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full - USB 32/64-bit (€184.03 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €1821.55 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-25 09:22 CET+0100
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:21
|
|
|
cinci zoo sniper posted:Fair enough, misread your RAM buying advice. The stick originally in were 2x8GB, the idea is to upgrade to 32GB in a year, maybe two. Not sure if I'll see enough VRAM use on 1060 to warrant 6GB version, but the price difference doesn't seem to be meaningful with the overall build cost in the background so whatever. The issue with the 3GB vs. 6GB version on the 1060 is two-fold: 1) The 6GB version is faster. They're not the same card - the 3GB version is comprised of the lesser-capable poo poo-binned chips that are downclocked. 2) Even if you don't see the need for more than 3GB of frame buffer, game developers are getting to the point where they're assuming everyone's running a GPU with 4-8GB to play with. 6GB is a nice round average between those two figures - Wolf II, for instance, utilizes just under 6GB of frame buffer at max settings at 1080p, and GTA V was stressing out the GTX 970 at the highest resolution because it was budging up against the 3.5GB hard limit before hitting the reserve pool. Obviously you can remedy this by turning down the graphics options, as well...but in the case of the 3GB vs. 6GB 1060, the price difference (at least on this side of the Atlantic) isn't enough to justify potentially hobbling yourself, even if you do intend on buying an Ampere card ~4-6 months from now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:25
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:The issue with the 3GB vs. 6GB version on the 1060 is two-fold: Oh, I see. I should've assumed less and checked the differences, since the first point sells it already. The second point is funny, reading about GTX 970, since my current card, GTX 850M, that for some ludicrous reason has 4GB of real VRAM, did manage GTA V just fine (for what it is, I mean, playing the game sometimes was an exercise in frustration but my entire system is anemic enough on the whole that it'd be fallacious to pin the blame to the card). Thanks again!
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:28
|
|
|
For us stateside, Newegg has some semi-decent prices on stuff for their Christmas sale: http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail/Dec-0-2017/Christmas_brdg462c_25 Again - I don't want to sound like a shill for them - but it's kind of worth signing up for their daily mailers simply to get your hands on the promo codes, but you can avoid signing up and still use them - it just necessitates *calling* them, and honestly, these days I really don't like giving my CC info out over the phone.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 09:41
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:For us stateside, Newegg has some semi-decent prices on stuff for their Christmas sale: http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail/Dec-0-2017/Christmas_brdg462c_25 To be fair Newegg is pretty much killing it compared to the other retailers for the Canadian site. On most sites ram is around 260$+ for 16 gigs of 3000 mhz with big "NO RAINCHECKS, limit 1 per customer" etc, whereas Newegg.ca has lots of options in the 220-240$ range including a few 3200 options around the 240 range. Right now they also have an amazing price on the low tier ASRock 370 for those of us who don't plan to actually overclock. It ends up being 105$ after rebate. https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157796 I realize this isn't the 'zomg computer deals' thread and apologize, but it really does feel oddly lopsided this boxing day for some reason. Definitely make sure to check around thoroughly before jumping on your build buy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 14:57
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:The issue with the 3GB vs. 6GB version on the 1060 is two-fold: The 1060 6 GB costs 50% more than the 3 GB model in the US at least, which is enough to warrant some thought on it. The 3 GB cards (Zotac Mini or Asus Dual) go for $180 or less all the time, and the 6 GB cards never break under $260. That's a much better price especially if you are trying to hold over until Ampere, the 1060 (even 6 GB) really isn't fast enough of a card to justify close to $300, it's only 10% faster than the 3 GB at 1080p. Yeah, it's a little slower, and the framebuffer is cramped. Ultra textures are an easy performance win if you have the VRAM. But that's only a little smaller than the Fury, it's the same as a 780 Ti, etc. I'd classify it as tight but livable - you will definitely have to pay attention to it and tune it on a per-game basis but it's not gonna be N64-mode, you'll just have to drop from "nightmare/insane" to high or medium settings in some titles. Miners have stripped that price bracket pretty bare, the only real alternatives in that price range are the 780 Ti with 3 GB, and the 970 with 4 GB. Again, the 1060 is not a fast enough card IMO to justify close to $300, so for the money I'd almost say you are better off saving up another $50 and hunting for a used 980 Ti in the $325 price range, which will be a little tough but would be quite a bit faster and get you up to 6 GB. The other way you can go is a 570 4 GB model, which usually run about $220 these days. Not a fantastic price but it's competitive in performance terms, and does get you an extra GB. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 17:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 03:57 |
|
|
My i5-2500k finally died (RIP). How's this for a replacement? I don't need anything ultra-fast, and I don't care about overclocking. Already have a case, power supply, and a video card (1070). PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($329.89 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370 HD3P (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($184.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 840 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($346.39 @ OutletPC) Total: $1030.15 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-25 11:20 EST-0500
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2017 17:21
|
|
