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Jymmybob posted:RO and DI water are huge bitches to deal with unless you're set up to handle them with without having any copper or carbon steel/iron touching them but mix them with additives and they're much better than tap water for heating and cooling systems. Just make sure you're adding the right type and quantity. I'm softening all the water (unfortunately, the asshat who renovated this place didn't separate the outside spigots from the rest of the water, so the cars will be getting luxurious washes), but there's going to be a dedicated RO line that only goes to a new sink faucet and to the fridge. No copper on the RO system line.
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Dec 24, 2017 22:15
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The Door Frame posted:Oh yeah, I just thought about how bad a jet's blowout would be on the runway, no wonder it's overbuilt The tyres have thermal fuses in them that usually prevent a catastrophic blowout. And most of the stress on tyres is during landing - I'm pretty sure (although an actual aircraft maintainer will probably come along and school me) that if a tyre decompresses during landing, the landing gear strut/axle/bogie is designed to have the other wheel take all the weight (and heat) for long enough to stop the plane. (Obviously, aside from replacing the blown tyre, the rest of the landing gear assembly will need a full inspection...) That's for commercial jets (which all have at least two tyres per landing gear strut), for private jets or GA you're pretty much on your own (although all of the private jets I've looked at have dual-tyre wheelsets for the main landing gear at least).
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Dec 25, 2017 14:47
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I literally knew nothing about this until four days ago, since I'm thinking of getting a water softener and RO unit installed. Apparently people have run their RO water lines to their on-demand hot-water taps at their sink, with subsequent catastrophic failure of the copper holding tank. I had a softener kill a washing machine because it sped up the galvanic corrosion. Thank you Whirlpool for using an aluminum "spider gear/arm" on your stainless steel washing machine drum.
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Dec 25, 2017 14:53
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tater_salad posted:I had a softener kill a washing machine because it sped up the galvanic corrosion. Thank you Whirlpool for using an aluminum "spider gear/arm" on your stainless steel washing machine drum. We know drat well that isn't an oversight on their engineer's part.
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Dec 25, 2017 15:38
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Beach Bum posted:No poo poo. After pulling apart my 4A-GE 16v I resolved to never again mess around with anything other than purified/distilled water and coolant. This is easily prevented by flushing once or twice a year. Its more due to coolant gaining an electrical charge due to age and contaminants, and then encouraging corrosion.
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Dec 25, 2017 15:59
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Flushing once or twice per year isn't supposed to be necessary.
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Dec 25, 2017 18:42
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I design RO systems for ultrapure water applications, as well as potable water applications. Stainless steel is fine. Copper / brass / galvanized / black steel not so much. RO is essentially a very, very fine filtration process that is fine enough to remove salts and metal ions. Think 0.0001 micron, hence the relatively high pressures required. The result of this is that pH is depressed, but thats not what causes the issues. Removing all the ions from the water results in water that very much wants to replace those ions with something, and if possible, it will pull the ions out of piping / whatever it gets in contact with. Dannywilson posted:E: I suppose carbonic acid via CO2 absorption could make it acidic? On potable systems, depending on what's being removed, we'll often blend RO permeate with feed water to get to the target TDS level. The blended line is typically then passed through UV, and finally chlorinated before storage / distribution. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Dec 25, 2017 |
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Dec 25, 2017 18:44
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There are people who don't just use distilled water and/or premixed coolant?
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Dec 25, 2017 18:52
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TrueChaos posted:I'm working on a project utilizing 2-pass RO followed by Electrodeionization (EDI) to produce water for a steam turbine for a power plant. When I built my first saltwater reef aquarium, I used boiler feedwater from the water plant at the power plant my dad worked at for the initial mix/fill, and then for top-off water. Stuff was cleaner than anything out of a consumer-grade RO/DI system. The aquarium was only 4.5gal, so it was trivial to move enough water for top-off needs, but once I moved to bigger tanks later, I had to get an RO/DI system, and I always had minor issues with the water from those.
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Dec 25, 2017 18:57
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Godholio posted:Flushing once or twice per year isn't supposed to be necessary. I had a roommate with that philosophy for toilets once.
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Dec 25, 2017 19:33
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Cojawfee posted:There are people who don't just use distilled water and/or premixed coolant? My fiance's old 525i was filled to the brim with hose water. Checking the overflow tank gave me a heart attack because it was thick and brown from all of the sediment Hell, my Capri still had its original coolant when I bought it 25 years later, and it took me 10 flushes to remove all of the reddish brown particles from the coolant I feel like it's only cast iron blocks that actually need to be flushed every year or two, because when I've changed coolant on aluminium blocks that weren't maintained properly, there was virtually no sediment in the coolant
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Dec 25, 2017 20:09
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TrueChaos posted:I design RO systems for ultrapure water applications, as well as potable water applications.
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Dec 25, 2017 20:14
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I think one of the best things about this site is that it generally takes under a dozen responses for someone who is a definitive expert to weigh in. The problem is you get the wannabe experts in under half a dozen. (we've all done it)
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Dec 25, 2017 20:16
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xzzy posted:The problem is you get the wannabe experts in under half a dozen. Well I drank filter coffee once and it didn't corrode my mug so I can't see how water filtration can corrode metals at all 
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Dec 25, 2017 20:19
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We recently installed a wastewater recycling system that has a 60gpm RO unit as the last stage and the installers valved it to a line that wasn't supposed to be fed RO. It was a fun time trying to figure out why sometimes parts in the pretreatment section of that line were rusting in rinse stages when the acid stage wasn't being used until I tracked back the water line and found that sometimes the operators opened the RO feed instead of city water. 
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Dec 25, 2017 21:17
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Dannywilson posted:This is completely false. RO seeks to return the water to a ph of 7.4 which is exact neutral. Water's not corrosive because it's acid or basic. Water is corrosive because it's a highly polar molecule. Ultrapure water is totally neutral, but it's also one of the most corrosive substances known. It will happily corrode the hell out of brass, iron, and a lot of non-stainless steels.There's a reason that ordinary water winds up with a lot of ions dissolved in it in the first place. It won't corrode stainless steel, but it can attack any impurities in the welds and wind up causing leaks.
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Dec 25, 2017 22:30
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I think one of the best things about this site is that it generally takes under a dozen responses for someone who is a definitive expert to weigh in. The best way to get information is not to ask for it, but to post the wrongest thing about it and get dogpiled with the right information. e: not saying I was intentionally doing that, but I like the flood of good info, so yeah. spookykid fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Dec 25, 2017 |
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Dec 25, 2017 23:00
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Cojawfee posted:There are people who don't just use distilled water and/or premixed coolant? Guys who work at a lab will be like "hey if distilled water is good, DI water will be better!"
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Dec 25, 2017 23:27
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Cojawfee posted:There are people who don't just use distilled water and/or premixed coolant? Premixed is almost 2x the price of just mixing it yourself. But yeah, I don't get why you'd bother using anything besides distilled water...it's less than a dollar a gallon at the store. Source: 4 loving radiators in 18 months.
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Dec 26, 2017 00:41
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Jymmybob posted:We recently installed a wastewater recycling system that has a 60gpm RO unit as the last stage and the installers valved it to a line that wasn't supposed to be fed RO. It was a fun time trying to figure out why sometimes parts in the pretreatment section of that line were rusting in rinse stages when the acid stage wasn't being used until I tracked back the water line and found that sometimes the operators opened the RO feed instead of city water. What kind of process? Also lol of they were using RO perm for the rinse step (I'm assuming in some kind of media filter, carbon / mmf), what a waste of energy.
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Dec 26, 2017 02:42
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Dannywilson posted:The best way to get information is not to ask for it, but to post the wrongest thing about it and get dogpiled with the right information. Better than Ars Technica, where you post the CORRECT information and then get dog-piled with wrong.
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Dec 26, 2017 13:18
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Regardless if you are using premixed, etc, you need to flush your coolant annually. It WILL gain a charge, and it WILL corrode your engine. Period. That doesn't change regardless of what water you use, it'll just happen faster with tap water than with purified water. There are simple electrical tests you can do with your coolant to verify its health and whether the coolant needs to be changed: https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-maintenance/coolant-testing-with-a-multimeter/view-all/ http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101/how-to-test CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 14:04
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CommieGIR posted:Regardless if you are using premixed, etc, you need to flush your coolant annually. It WILL gain a charge, and it WILL corrode your engine. Period. That doesn't change regardless of what water you use, it'll just happen faster with tap water than with purified water. What about eurotrash cars that run pressurized coolant systems
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Dec 26, 2017 14:21
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Rigged Death Trap posted:What about eurotrash cars that run pressurized coolant systems There are modern cars without pressurized cooling systems? And all that does is help keep the boiling point high and keep the hoses under pressure, it's not going to make the coolant last longer. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 14:33
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CommieGIR posted:Regardless if you are using premixed, etc, you need to flush your coolant annually. It WILL gain a charge, and it WILL corrode your engine. Period. That doesn't change regardless of what water you use, it'll just happen faster with tap water than with purified water. This isn't even close my experience with 3 20+ year old cars I've taken toward 150,000 miles without corrosion problems. And for what it's worth, the manual on my current Nissan has the first coolant change is 105,000 miles or 126 months. Second change is 180,000 miles or 216 months.
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Dec 26, 2017 15:22
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Another great GM thing: Dexcool. (Sarcasm btw)
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Dec 26, 2017 15:30
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C-Bangin' it 
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glynnenstein posted:This isn't even close my experience with 3 20+ year old cars I've taken toward 150,000 miles without corrosion problems. Its called anecdotal for a reason.
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Dec 26, 2017 15:40
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Rigged Death Trap posted:What about eurotrash cars that run pressurized coolant systems The only thing I can think of that you may be thinking of is a pressurized reservoir, and the solution there is to wait until it cools down. 
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Dec 26, 2017 15:55
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I'll stick to my owner's manual recommendation of 5 years/100000 miles, if that is ok. edit: It's DexCool 
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Dec 26, 2017 16:25
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The makers of dexcool were so smart they made it the color of rust so you can't use a visual inspection to decide if your coolant system is falling apart.
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Dec 26, 2017 16:36
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Goober Peas posted:I'll stick to my owner's manual recommendation of 5 years/100000 miles, if that is ok. Congrats on the future headgasket job.
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Dec 26, 2017 16:41
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glynnenstein posted:This isn't even close my experience with 3 20+ year old cars I've taken toward 150,000 miles without corrosion problems. Does driving a japanese chrysler qualify you to comment on this?
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Dec 26, 2017 16:51
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glynnenstein posted:This isn't even close my experience with 3 20+ year old cars I've taken toward 150,000 miles without corrosion problems. With manufacturers competing on service charges these days (free servicing, capped price servicing), the intervals are only going to get longer. We already have "sealed for life" ATX that will fail under 10 years because never serviced, sludging up engines etc. They used to make money with servicing and people complained. Now they are extending everything and people are eating it up, not realising the goal has just changed from a dealer making money via servicing to the manufacturer making money by selling you a new car because your old one is stuffed in 5 years - not that new car buyers care because they often don't keep them that long, but eventually when it catches on it will hurt them with resale/trade in value.
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Dec 26, 2017 16:59
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BloodBag posted:Does driving a japanese chrysler qualify you to comment on this? It's just my experience, so maybe I'm lucky. Changing coolant annually seems really excessive to me having it made it 24 years with 1 radiator failure in a mix of cars through 500,000ish miles going off of manufacturers schedules the whole way. The Nissan example is what I have now, but they're hardly an outlier with that interval.
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Dec 26, 2017 17:30
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glynnenstein posted:It's just my experience, so maybe I'm lucky. Changing coolant annually seems really excessive to me having it made it 24 years with 1 radiator failure in a mix of cars through 500,000ish miles going off of manufacturers schedules the whole way. The Nissan example is what I have now, but they're hardly an outlier with that interval. Of my 5 Audis, many pushing 31 years of age, I've only had one radiator fail due to the plastic endcap cracking because the fan failed. I change yearly by draining half the coolant and refilling. But both of our examples are anecdotal evidence. I mean: What's the benefit to NOT changing your coolant? Its a fairly low cost way to ensure you remove any corrosion products and keep your coolant fresh. Its not like its an expensive maintenance you are talking about. And especially as coolant electrolysis is a proven concern, are you really willing to risk catastrophic block and head corrosion over that?  "I'm way more than a radiator and a coolant flush combined!" CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 17:33
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Fo3 posted:With manufacturers competing on service charges these days (free servicing, capped price servicing), the intervals are only going to get longer. We already have "sealed for life" ATX that will fail under 10 years because never serviced, sludging up engines etc. What the gently caress cars are you driving that the mechanical bits don't last 10+ years?
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Dec 26, 2017 17:38
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CarForumPoster posted:What the gently caress cars are you driving that the mechanical bits don't last 10+ years? Seriously! The average age of cars on the road is over 11.5 years in the USA. For every new car there are ones much older being driven. Or a crapload of them at 12 years. I don’t plan on replacing my wife’s car until it hits 8-10, the main driver now is getting new features like a backup camera and enhanced phone integration.
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Dec 26, 2017 17:47
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CarForumPoster posted:What the gently caress cars are you driving that the mechanical bits don't last 10+ years? You've never heard of a tran failing in under 10 years? That started after sealed for life b/s. I think cars are going to not last as long because now they are pushing out maintenance for everything else - because they are dropping the price on servicing - capped or free , and will do less preventative maintenance and fluid/oil changes. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 17:53
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CommieGIR posted:Congrats on the future headgasket job. Bonus points if you have a Northstar.
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Dec 26, 2017 18:03
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Not so much a horrible failure, but technically interesting; my dad killed a halfshaft in his Austin 7, so he's had to pull the axle apart, and the differential doesn't use bevel gears for the centre, it's an arrangement of spur gears, kind of like a Torsen B or Quaife without the LSD function:  
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