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So a few things I've learned today. The big one is I badly need a small lamp or something cause compared to the lighting over at my mother's where I painted the skeleton on Christmas Day, the lighting in my room is horrible. Kept using the flashlight on my phone just to double check stuff.  
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Dec 28, 2017 11:41
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Arthil posted:The big one is I badly need a small lamp or something... I've gotten plenty of miles on one of those lamps that looks like the lamp from the Pixar logo with daylight bulbs. Everything cost me about $30 and it was a pack of 5 bulbs (still on the first one after a few months)
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Dec 28, 2017 14:44
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Found a cool site that basically incorporates color theory into real time awesome. Not sure what colors to use for that new dude you got sitting in the box? Click. http://paletton.com/
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Dec 28, 2017 16:58
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JackMann posted:Buddy of mine is a big fan of the Goon. Got some fun minis in... Nice. I love the Goon. I could probably incorporate him and Frankie into my pirate themed d&d campaign. I promised I wouldn't buy more until I finished painting what I had though.
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Dec 28, 2017 17:20
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Partial Octopus posted:So I watched this video on how to paint Salamanders. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-Wv1Ppp_ww This is almost identical to what I did in my Zenithal priming tutorial except he used a warm white basecoat and skipped the extreme highlight. If you do it this way you can use washes, glazes, or just thin paint from an airbrush as a next step to get nice natural highlights/shadows. If you do it this way you should really spend the extra minute and leave some blacks in the deep shadows and use a dusting of a cooler white over the very top to make the model pop. You can use this technique for vehicles, but it's best done with an airbrush. If you don't have one you can seal the undercoated warm white with a gloss varnish and then mix the gloss varnish into your wash ~2:1 (wash:varnish) before going over the top. This will prevent pooling and tide marks on large surfaces. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Dec 28, 2017 |
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Dec 28, 2017 20:56
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Can we talk desktop organization for a bit? I use an 8ft gladiator workbench for my painting and assembly station, but j find it gets super crowded when I'm actually using it, mostly due to the paints not having a place to sit on their own. I'm looking at something like what Ram-stag sells, but maybe something with a little better logistic set up. Any recommendations? I use a combination of citadel pots and Vallejo dropped bottles. Easy identification vertical storage would be really cool if I can find it.
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Dec 28, 2017 22:17
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BULBASAUR posted:This is almost identical to what I did in my Zenithal priming tutorial except he used a warm white basecoat and skipped the extreme highlight. If you do it this way you can use washes, glazes, or just thin paint from an airbrush as a next step to get nice natural highlights/shadows. If you do it this way you should really spend the extra minute and leave some blacks in the deep shadows and use a dusting of a cooler white over the very top to make the model pop. Thanks for the info!
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Dec 28, 2017 23:00
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Still waiting for this patriot 105 to go on sale ..
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Dec 28, 2017 23:36
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Meh. Michael's mobile site is garbage, but they've got a Badger Patriot 105 available. With a 40% coupon, that would bring the cost down to about $100. And I've got gift cards for Christmas. If I've never used one before, and after having read the OP, would it be worth it to take the plunge? It's either the airbrush or a yarn winder, and I've got a lot of Russians to paint.
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Dec 29, 2017 00:22
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Hamshot posted:Crossposting from the 30k thread: This is one of my favorite things in the history of things that I've seen on SA. It's like you took the image of what a Warlord Titan aligned to Horus and who rolls with the Word Bearers would look like straight out of the books and made it in real life. loving beautiful.
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Dec 29, 2017 00:57
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goodness posted:Still waiting for this patriot 105 to go on sale .. I just bought one for $76 on amazon. I couldn't find a proper sized O-ring for my Master Airbrush and I'll go to hell before I pay $8 plus shipping to repair a $20 airbrush.
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Dec 29, 2017 01:16
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Aniodia posted:
Basically the only thing that gives me solace is that she was killed not by her own choice, which heartens me due to her being a wholly good, caring, loving person, that she didn't take her own life means to me that she still felt life was worth living, and it was simply stolen from her.
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Dec 29, 2017 02:27
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^^ That is a completely horrible thing to happen, I can't even begin to imagine how traumatizing that would have been. Condolences to you and your family.Arthil posted:So a few things I've learned today. The big one is I badly need a small lamp or something cause compared to the lighting over at my mother's where I painted the skeleton on Christmas Day, the lighting in my room is horrible. Kept using the flashlight on my phone just to double check stuff. Keep going with it, it'll only get better and better. I bought the same Reaper kit a few months back, made a splotchy skeleton archer and a melting orc warrior, and after reading this thread and the recommended youtube vids have had (slow) steady improvement with every mini.  Angharad in the middle is my latest, I haven't finished the base yet. I'm happy with the result for the time being and I can see some improvement compared to the previous Liberator I painted. Still a long way to go skill wise but the little things are getting easier and making me a lot more confident in tackling detailed and/or fine pieces like that Blood Warrior.  I painted these two right after the Reaper starter minis using each of them to focus on a particular paint skill. The Frost Giant was for drybrushing the hair and fur. The Fimir for shading and highlighting. I didn't go far enough and they both look like they're in a basecoat stage but eh, tiny steps.  This is what made me start painting. These are two 'rares' from one the DnD prepainted sets (Acererak and Minsc) The quality level has really dropped off over the past 5 years and it got to the point where I realized with a little practice I could do much better. Screw paying a fortune and feeling unsatisfied, why not pay a fortune and start feeling proud!
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Dec 29, 2017 06:22
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I'm surprised at how steady of a hand I seem to have, actually! Although those teeth on the orc were still more an effort of getting the white on, and then touching up with the green with how small of a detail it was. Biggest thing I learned is to have two cups for working my brushes in, one for metallics and one not. I did the blade on the orc last, and so when I went to do the washes I covered him in glitter which I went back and fixed. Once I've done the third mini in the kit I'm going to work on the others. I've got three different dwarves, two dragonborn, an old battletech mech, a griffon and beholder. Then finally the biggest one being the frost giant king. And a dwarf slayer mini I ordered almost a month ago, geez I'm never buying from CoolMinisOrNot again. Arthil fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Dec 29, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 07:09
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I still have a mountain of prepainted minis from back when I collected them more. Back then, I didn't really think of painting minis as something I could do. I knew some people did it, but it seemed like something you'd need to have a lot of natural talent to do. But then I eventually got a kit and the results were... terrible, but still better than some of my prepaints. And soon I got to the level where my minis were better than any of the prepaints I owned. It really helped keep me going at the start. I'll never get to the point where the minis are quite as awesome as I envision them in my head, but they're still better than those prepaints.
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Dec 29, 2017 07:34
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Painted up a flames of war model as a New Years gift for a friend:     It didn't come with decals so I didn't give it any red stars 
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Dec 29, 2017 13:40
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reposting from the 40k threadTwo Beans posted:one son done
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Dec 29, 2017 14:02
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GoingPostal posted:Meh. Michael's mobile site is garbage, but they've got a Badger Patriot 105 available. With a 40% coupon, that would bring the cost down to about $100. And I've got gift cards for Christmas. If I've never used one before, and after having read the OP, would it be worth it to take the plunge? I'm going to say this again - if you have never used an airbrush before, get the most for your money and work your way up. Go with something like the Master setup. You get a decent airbrush, extra needles, quick-release connection, and a compressor with tank and regulator for not much more than the 105's base price, and that doesn't include the compressor. Side note - I'm using the Master model G23 brush now, and I like the way you can dial in the airflow and needle - it really makes fine detail a lot easier. It's very similar in looks to the Iwata Eclipse CS, to the point where I was going to buy the Iwata the other day and had second thoughts due to the G23 being virtually identical. To be completely honest, I like my Master better than the 105 - my 105 leaks air and I'm having an issue using a detail needle. I haven't had those problems with the Master brush. And if I want to go really fine detail, I'm starting to use my Sotar more. Note that I'm not saying the 105 is a bad brush - a lot of people swear by it. I have had problems with mine though, and I feel that you can get more for your money, especially since you're a beginner. Remember, on top of the brush, you're going to want to get an airbrush painting station to help with the overspray. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Dec 29, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 14:16
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Posting this from the gundam thread https://twitter.com/ryuhaku7217/status/941869993003593728 What is this paint. This is super cool.
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Dec 29, 2017 15:39
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I think it's the plastic.
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Dec 29, 2017 15:44
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My baseless overcomplicated guess would be a chiral nematic paint; it's a type of living crystal that changes color between 24 and 28 degrees. More likely it's just a clever use of reflective plastic, though. If you're into color changing pigments look into thermochromic paint; it gets used a lot in nail gloss (because it's pretty and your fingers go through a lot of temp changes). Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Dec 29, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 18:06
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https://twitter.com/ryuhaku7217/status/942178670831067136 Going by thread replies and bad Google translations I'm getting "projection mapping," whatever that means. I think they used the product pictured above, which is I guess an airbrush black light paint.
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Dec 29, 2017 18:39
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Slimnoid posted:https://twitter.com/ryuhaku7217/status/942178670831067136 Projection mapping is where you project an image or movie onto a non-flat surface. The "mapping" is where you plan out how the projected image reacts to the contours of the surface. What he's doing is not projection mapping, however.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:36
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My guess would be really thinned-out fluorescing paints, or even inks. They're waving a little blacklight around the model to set the stuff off, but if you look where the light's shining, the paint is still pretty translucent. You could glaze them on thin enough to cast a faint color under the light, but to be pretty unobtrusive under regular lighting.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:57
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Doing these Gorechosen guys reminds me of how much I hate picking out gold armor details.  What are you guys using for a good brassy-gold paint that Khorne would be proud of that doesn't require too much work once the base is laid down? Currently, I'm using whatever VGC's Shining Gold equivalent is, and I'm going to have to go back and tone it down a bit with a wash. I'd like to skip the wash step in the future, if at all possible.
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Dec 29, 2017 20:33
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They make plastics that react to sunlight. That light looks like one of those UV flashlights. Most Gundams come with pre-colored plastics these days, so maybe this is a new gimmick for an upcoming model. If you take it outside or set it in the sun, it'll look painted.
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Dec 29, 2017 20:42
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What are acceptable temperature and humidity for using Citadel spray to prime models outside?
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Dec 29, 2017 21:58
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I would say 50 to 90 Fahrenheit, and no more than 60% humidity.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:04
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dexefiend posted:I would say 50 to 90 Fahrenheit, and no more than 60% humidity. Dang. Winter in Houston means that it's be above 50 degrees pretty often, and below 60% humidity on occasion, but never at the same time.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:11
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Guy Goodbody posted:What are acceptable temperature and humidity for using Citadel spray to prime models outside? It really doesn't matter, assuming it's not foggy or raining. Prep everything on cardboard before going outside, spray, bring it back inside, set in the bathroom, turn the vent fan on, and close the bathroom door. You should be ok. The correct alternative, though, is to just buy an airbrush and never worry about that crap again.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:17
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berzerkmonkey posted:Doing these Gorechosen guys reminds me of how much I hate picking out gold armor details. I like Balthasar Gold for that bronze-like gold color on Khorne guys.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:21
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GW is based in the UK, so any weather that is unpleasant but not snow should be fine for spraying
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Dec 29, 2017 22:22
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berzerkmonkey posted:It really doesn't matter, assuming it's not foggy or raining. Prep everything on cardboard before going outside, spray, bring it back inside, set in the bathroom, turn the vent fan on, and close the bathroom door. You should be ok. I've been too nervous to prime outside because it's below 20F here (-6.66C, which seems very accurate) and won't warm up for probably a month. I've heard that primer will do weird things like bubbling and cracking in this weather. And that's if I even want to be outside in this weather, which I don't, at all.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:28
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Yeah, that's one of the things hindering me working on my Oath this month - it's too cold outside to do any priming or coating.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:32
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berzerkmonkey posted:It really doesn't matter, assuming it's not foggy or raining. Prep everything on cardboard before going outside, spray, bring it back inside, set in the bathroom, turn the vent fan on, and close the bathroom door. You should be ok. The only thing I don't like about airbrush priming is that the undercoat seems very fragile compared to spray cans. I've had primer scratch off on the edges of a model with only minor handling.
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Dec 29, 2017 22:57
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Question for the thread - I test painted a couple of schemes (real rough) pictured below for a redo of my Battlefleet Gothic fleet. I'm interested in your feedback on a couple of things: 1. Directionality of fade 2. Primary color choice 3. Secondary color choice 4. Anything else I have a red and a green version, but I could also do a blue (but do not want to). I also used a brown/cream secondary and a grey secondary, but could consider a black with grey highlights or another color but prefer flatter, darker colors. I think I prefer the front point of light faded on the sides (rather than the right/starboard side faded to port). Your thoughts? Clickable 
Boon fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 29, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 23:43
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BULBASAUR posted:Painted up a flames of war model as a New Years gift for a friend: I love this. Where can I find that model?
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Dec 29, 2017 23:55
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Boon posted:Question for the thread - I test painted a couple of schemes (real rough) pictured below for a redo of my Battlefleet Gothic fleet. I'm interested in your feedback on a couple of things: I love the orange/yellow scheme on the left, both color and fade direction. The green ones are striking but look to me more like a tyranid/bug type scheme . My only suggestion is a really small spot color somewhere on the left one, maybe a bright blue.
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Dec 30, 2017 02:32
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Yeah, another vote for the orange. It looks better, and the green looks more lizard-y than the orange. It does need a little bit of bright color, though. Blue would would be the best, but a little bit of a bright accent color would really make it pop.
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Dec 30, 2017 02:38
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berzerkmonkey posted:Prep everything on cardboard before going outside, spray, bring it back inside, set in the bathroom, turn the vent fan on, and close the bathroom door. You should be ok. Had to do this because it was "feels like" 1 degree in Boston today, why do I still live here
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Dec 30, 2017 03:05
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